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Friday 26th May 2023

Distance 13.4km / 8.3 miles

Sarria – Ferreiros

Today was the beginning of the final ‘stage’ of the Camino Frances. The Cathedral at Santiago has decreed that you have to walk at least 100km to receive the official Compostela. This provides proof you are an official pilgrim among other things. This does mean that there are many thousands of pilgrims who start at Sarria which is the biggest town near this point at 113km from Santiago. All the videos, blogs and guides talk about this last section as crowded and with less opportunities for quiet reflection. They also gave warnings about limited accommodation and the necessity of booking. This did start raising concerns which I thought I had got over.

To counter this I was walking short distances now. I had booked two nights at an Albergue in Santiago and wanted to take the rest of my journey quite slowly so I didn’t arrive too early. I as usual set out at dawn and stopped a few metres up the hill, beside a church to say Morning Prayer. I was interrupted by a few spots of rain so I put my waterproof jacket on and backpack cover before continuing. I noticed far more pilgrims than I was used to. I was going to use as many Municipal hostels as possible from now on and I had identified the one at Ferreiros as my destination of choice. We went over the brow of the hill and into a beautiful wooded valley before going up again and over some rolling hills.

I found the scenery very like the countryside at home. Pastures, woodland, rolling hills.

Today was a day of country smells, not too many wildflowers, but wonderful walking. The weather was cool and threatened rain a few times, but whilst it was overcast it did not come to anything.

I arrived at my destination just two and a quarter hours before it opened and I was first in the queue! As I walked it did prey on my mind a bit that I wasn’t booking anywhere but it seemed to be working out ok.

I had plenty of time to sit and think. My thoughts were being pulled towards what the result of this pilgrimage might be. There have been experiences, but if this is a metaphor of life, maybe I shouldn’t focus on living from one experience to another. Over the last couple of days I have felt more of a sense of just enjoying walking with God. Is this the ‘walking amiably with Him’ which I have prayed about so many times? I haven’t expected any great revelation though there is still time.

Thinking about my arrival in Santiago, I want to pay my respects to Saint James, go to Pilgrim Mass and hopefully attend an Anglican service on the Sunday. I suspect I won’t feel any more like a tourist when I get there.

Thursday 25th May 2023

Distance 15.2km / 9.4 miles

Samos – Sarria

I woke early and once again said Morning Prayer at dawn, with the noise of the river all that disturbed the peace of the day. I think this is closest I’ll come to saying Morning Prayer in a monastery. I set off through the town and along the river.

Once again it was beautiful walking through wooded valleys. The only drawback was a lack of open cafes which meant no breakfast today!

It didn’t seem that long before I arrived at Sarria. This was a very busy pilgrim town, traditionally the starting point for the thousands who just walk the last one hundred kilometres of the Camino. I had booked my bed but there seemed plenty of beds available. From here the guidebooks talk of the necessity of booking ahead since the Camino gets very busy. I chose to walk short days and finish early instead.

I wandered around the town, it felt a bit nondescript with little history left to see. I had a nice meal of Hake and Chips followed by Santiago Cake. The cake was similar to the Basque cake I had had in the Pyrenees. I then found a shop to stock up on Pepsi and snacks. The Albergue was great and spent a large part of the evening lying on my bunk and reading even dozing off at one point.

Wednesday 24th May 2023

Distance 10.5km / 6.5 miles

Tricastela – Samos

I was making the most of the time I had left on my journey to walk shorter days and after Morning Prayer I set of down the valley towards Samos with it’s famous Benedictine monastery. The scenery was beautiful as I walked through beautiful wooded valleys.

The scenery if not the photos was picture postcard perfect.

Every time I pass rivers and streams with still water I call to mind the words of Psalm 23

He leads me beside still waters,
He restores my soul

Psalm 23:2-3

It was only 09.30am and I climbed out of a valley and over the ridge to see Samos below me. It is such a beautiful location.

Walking down into the village it just gets better.

I stopped at a bar and had coffee and a Napoletana then went for a wander round the village.

I had plenty of time today so I went to the Monastery and booked a tour and had a look round their gift shop. My first impressions weren’t good as the monk in charge of the gift shop seemed really grumpy.

I got my ticket for the next tour. The buildings were impressive but largely the result of re-building after a fire in recent centuries.

The tour was only in Spanish but thankfully one of the visitors was translating as we walked around. It was still a working monastery but the ten monks and novices were in a closed off section. I couldn’t help but contrast it with the Benedictine monastery as Rabanal del Camino where we could share in their spiritual life. There were some great murals around the cloister, many of them depicting the life of St Benedict.

We had a look at the sacristy

Then ended the main tour in the church which though spectacular , didn’t move me somehow.

I checked in to the Albergue which was underneath the church. It was very basic but just what was needed. I went out for a meal in the evening. I was disappointed that there was not the opportunity to take part in a service. All in all while the day overall was great – I didn’t get the experience I was hoping for at the monastery.

Tuesday 23rd May 2023

Distance 21km / 13 miles

O Cebreiro – Tricastela

I woke up really early today, mainly because everyone else in the room seem to be up and about before 06.00. So I got up too, got packed and found a bench outside to say Morning Prayer. It was one of the most sublime experiences of my journey as I gazed out and was awed by being above the clouds as dawn broke. I’m not experienced with being at the top of mountains and this was a special experience.

I needed to start walking though.

I walked on and as I descended I walked through the clouds. So from sublime moments of being above the clouds to struggling to find me way though dense cloud I came out into the sunshine. A life lesson there maybe?

It certainly wasn’t downhill all the way though, there were plenty of ups and downs including some really steep, though mercifully short climbs. There were also times when I was back in cloud. I stopped for some breakfast at a bar on my way and continued.

I met someone I had chatted to at the Albergue at Rabanal and continued on down towards my destination. It was beautiful walking.

I finally arrived at my chosen destination. The Municipal Albergue at Tricastela. I had decided to use these municipal hotels in Galicia as they were cheap, only eight euros per night and didn’t take reservations. For this last section of my pilgrimage I was walking shorter distances and could be fairly sure there would always be beds available. Today I was the first in the queue!

I did some washing and hung it out -only for it to get wet! Galicia being in the North-West of Spain gets quite a lot of rain. Today was my first experience of fine days then clouds build up and it rains in the evening. It didn’t last too long and I was able to get out, get something to eat and go to the shop and stock up on snacks etc.

I had a pleasant sociable evening chatting to other pilgrims in the lounge area.

Monday 22nd May 2023

Distance 18.4km / 11.4 miles. Ascent 650m / 2132ft

Trabadelo – O Cebreiro

Today was supposed to be the toughest climb of the Camino and I hadn’t booked any accommodation. I was somehow a bit more relaxed today though. I said Morning Prayer in the quiet of my room and set out as soon as it was light enough to see and enjoy my walk. I started today continuing along the Valley of Valcarce. I was walking in shadow for a lot of this first section and began musing about “walking through the valley of the shadow of death.” not in a morbid way though.

For a lot of the way as you walked along the old quiet road you could see the newer dual carriageway up above.

I stopped at a bar and had a coffee and the biggest bocadillo I had seen. I was expecting something small for breakfast but this turned out to be brunch in a sandwich. As I walked further up the valley towards the village of Las Herrerias where I would start my steep climb the views opened out.

I climbed out of the village on the road.

I left the road turning down onto the footpath. It seemed counter intuitive to be going down in order to start a mountain climb. The path to start with was through woodland. It was very steep and every bit as challenging as expected. I stopped often to rest. I wasn’t the fastest as several, much younger people, I hasten to add passed me, neither was I the slowest. As I climbed further the views opened out.

I crossed the border into the province of Galicia and looked back. It was somehow significant as this felt like the beginning of the end.

Eventually I reached the village of O Cebreiro on the mountain top which was my destination for today. I was so thankful to have managed the climb up the mountain and to get there in a reasonable time. It was about noon and I walked through the village to the Municipal Albergue to make sure I got a bed. As it happened I needn’t have worried as there was plenty of room. When I arrived I was about number 35 in the queue, though more kept coming as I waited.

The view from the Albergue was awesome.

I got myself settled and showered and did my laundry then walked back into the village to get a drink and something to eat. In the end I bought food at the local shiop and got a beer. I had to have an Estrella de Galicia to celebrate my arrival in the final Province of my walk.

The village itself was picture postcard perfect though quite touristy.

I checked out the church, saying a quick prayer and decided to return later for the Pilgrim’s Mass and Benediction.

The Mass was wonderful and I do remember feeling the drops of Holy Water as the priest blessed the congregation. The Benediction was sublime. The pilgrims gathered around the altar at the front of the church, then after a short talk about the love of God, one person from each nationality / language was invited forward to read a prayer. I was chosen as the English representative. It was a powerful moment. Finally each of us were given a tiny pebble with a yellow cross painted on. I still have that as a memento of that day. A physical, mental and a spiritual high!

Sunday 21st May 2023

Distance 18.2km / 11.3 Miles, Ascent at least 500m / 1640ft

Cacabelos – Trabadelo

The day began early as usual, finding a quiet bench to say Morning Prayer as dawn broke before setting off. I walked through the town and over the bridge into the rolling hills which were mainly covered by vineyards.

It was then down into the valley and the lovely town of Villafranca del Bierzo. I passed the Door of Forgiveness where medieval pilgrims who couldn’t make it to Santiago could receive absolution and a compostela.

There were other beautiful buildings like this castle and convent.

After I crossed the bridge over the river with it’s distinctive modern statue, (above), I had a decision to make. I could take the easier route along the valley floor or the scenic route along the mountain ridge over the Alto de Pradela. I chose the scenic route. It was challenging to say the least but produced some of the most breathtaking views of the who pilgrimage.

I detoured to the little village of Pradela where there was an Albergue with a bar where I had some much needed refreshment. From here it was downhill which was every but as challenging as the initial climb if not quite as exhausting.

I finally saw my destination, the village of Trabadelo where I had booked a hotel room.

It was one of the posher places I stayed in and got an air conditioned room with en-suite and a view overlooking the river

I was so glad I had accepted the challenge of the scenic route. This was the most difficult climb since I crossed the Pyrenees on the first day. I was just overwhelmed with the mountain scenery. I was glad too of the practice as I knew I would have to climb that and more tomorrow. I relaxed and enjoyed a lovely meal of the day and wine then got some well earned sleep.

Friday 19th May 2023

Distance 15.2km / 9.4 miles

El Acebo – Ponferrada

Today was all about walking downhill though it certainly wasn’t downhill in terms of mood. As I negotiated the often difficult paths the views just kept on giving.

I passed a little open chapel in the hamlet of Riego de Ambrós and stopped for a quick prayer. Then it was through some lovely woodland. The paths down the mountain were some of the most challenging walking so far and I was going slowly and carefully, grateful for my poles.

The views were great

Once down the mountain I walked through the village of Molinaseca and over some low hills until I saw Ponferrada in the distance.

After a stretch of road walking and a short climb I arrived at the town centre and it’s impressive Templar Castle.

The town was bustling, modern and full of tourists. I stopped and did some shopping before checking in to my Albergue. It was a parochial one but very different in character to last night. It was large and modern and didn’t provide any food. The accommodation was great though I I did spend some time in the garden and in an old church beside the hostel. It was lovely and peaceful and had some beautiful modern painted decoration.

I almost looked around the castle but it was closed. Today gave me an opportunity to rest and reflect on the last couple of days.

Thursday 18th May 2023

Distance 16.6km / 10.3 miles.

Rabanal del Camino – El Acebo

Today started so well. Albergue Guacelmo is such a special place. Unusually I was the last one up in the morning and even got to put the light on to pack. 06.45 and I was all packed and ready. I went downstairs and realised that breakfast was provided, how had I missed that. So I stopped for breakfast. I knew today’s walk was not a long one so felt relaxed about not setting off straight away. Breakfast was bread and marmalade and tea, such good tea. Jean and Paul the hosts were so lovely and easy to speak to. I had received five star service, over and above what was normal.

It was a struggle to leave. I half said morning prayer in the garden then decided I needed to set off. I said my final farewells with a hug and a handshake. It was a fairly gentle climb out of the village but it was cold, there was frost on the ground.

The views were sublime, woodland, scrub and view after view of forested hillsides and valleys. I said Morning Prayer as I walked – it was Ascension Day and I felt like I was my own mount of Ascension.

I noticed today that the bushes which had been yellow broom so far were white. Also as I walked there was a wonderful smell of wild thyme and pine, what a glorious day.

I climbed up through the village of Foncebadon up to pretty much the highest point of the Camino. The Cruz de Ferro. Traditionally at least in modern times pilgrims leave a stone here which they have brought from home, with different symbolism for each person. I left a pink granite stone from the Cheviots- to symbolise a pilgrim from the land of St Cuthbert.

The rest of my walk today was downhill and the views kept coming. My only struggle was trying to think kindly of a very loud group of pilgrims who were disturbing my peace.

I eventually reached my destination for today at El Acebo. It was a really quaint village with lots of restored houses and yet more awesome views.

I wanted to stay at the parochial hostel but there was quite a bit of time to wait before it opened.

While I was sitting in the sun the Hospitalero came up to me and said he would check me in early which was really nice. When I asked about an evening meal he said he was only providing breakfast. I got my bunk and got my chores done then went for a walk around the town and had a beer. By the time I got back an evening meal was now being provided. The hostel filled up and the meal was great. Very simple stew of chorizo and potatoes but made special by the people.

After he meal he ushered us all out to the edge of the village to see the sunset. This proved to be one of the most sublime moments of my whole pilgrimage. There was a cross which provided the foreground to the sun setting over the mountains and to be there with pilgrims from all over the world was so special.

A day of spiritual, emotional, and physical highs.

Wednesday 17th May 2023

Distance 20km / 12.4 miles.

Astorga – Rabanal del Camino

After leaving the city it was a gentle downhill walk past a hermitage where I was able to say a brief prayer. The trail was fairly flat at this stage though you soon began to climb. There were a succession of small villages which provided some extra interest. We were walking through more scrubland now and I noticed a change in the vegetation. It was a beautiful walk and the views opened up the higher we got. I saw my companions from yesterday but we didn’t chat beyond exchanging greetings, it was as if we had exhausted all that we wished to say yesterday.

We continued climbing into the mountains and walked through some exquisite woodland paths.

On the approach to the village of Rabanal I noticed fields with grass and cows grazing, it made such a change. The village was very quaint. There were a lot of restored houses and cobbled streets. I found my Albergue where I wanted to stay. As usual I was there too early so had a change to sit in the sun and also to visit the church opposite the hostel. It was lovely and there was a really peaceful atmosphere there. I took the opportunity to pray.

Once the hostel was open I checked in. This hostel was looked after by volunteers from the Confraternity of St James which is the organisation supporting pilgrims in this country. It was really nice to speak to people in English! I got sorted and made the most of the lovely garden. One of the highlights was afternoon tea in the garden with Yorkshire Tea and local biscuits with honey.

There was a Benedictine Monastery next door and I went across to the church for Vespers and later for Compline. There is something timeless and wonderful about black robed monks saying and singing the Divine Office. Interestingly much of the services was in Latin which I could follow easier than the Spanish bits. It cooled down rapidly as the sun set and it was great that the hostel had a lounge area with a real fire. It was great to sit and chat with other pilgrims.

This was such a special place. Everything came together to make it a ‘perfect day’.

Tuesday 16th May 2023

Distance 16.6km / 10.3 miles

Hospital de Orbigo – Astorga

I woke refreshed in every way and after Morning Prayer in the very cool garden of the Albergue I made sure I thanked the volunteers as I left the Albergue. I often think they don’t get the credit they deserve. I walked on and stopped at a nice bar in the village of Villares de Orbigo for breakfast. A change from Napoletana.

The trail began to climb as I left the village.

It was at this point I got chatting to a man from Ireland who was in occasional company with another man. My fading memory has left me without names or even the nationality of the other man who admittedly didn’t say much. The morning passed quite quickly as the conversation flowed. On the way I was captivated by the colours of the poppies and other flowers in the fields contrasting with the yellow broom. The photos don’t do it justice.

We came to a beautiful view point overlooking the city of Astorga and stopped for a short break.

Down the hill and we made our way to the city over a rather massive footbridge over the railway line.

The climb up into the city centre was really steep made all the worse by the relatively easy going today. I had booked a hotel this evening so walked through the city centre and found it on a buy street with a very impressive street market.

It was a modern hotel but quite cheap. I had a beer while waiting to check in. After getting my room and myself sorted I took my laundry to a laundromat a couple of doors down. I then went to a huge supermarket and stocked up on drinks and snacks. I took advantage of the hotel restaurant in the evening and had a nice meal of the day. I also checked my feet and replaced the plaster on my toe which was healing nicely. Today was a day to get stuff done rather than do more touristy things.