Monday 22nd May 2023
Distance 18.4km / 11.4 miles. Ascent 650m / 2132ft
Trabadelo – O Cebreiro
Today was supposed to be the toughest climb of the Camino and I hadn’t booked any accommodation. I was somehow a bit more relaxed today though. I said Morning Prayer in the quiet of my room and set out as soon as it was light enough to see and enjoy my walk. I started today continuing along the Valley of Valcarce. I was walking in shadow for a lot of this first section and began musing about “walking through the valley of the shadow of death.” not in a morbid way though.
For a lot of the way as you walked along the old quiet road you could see the newer dual carriageway up above.
I stopped at a bar and had a coffee and the biggest bocadillo I had seen. I was expecting something small for breakfast but this turned out to be brunch in a sandwich. As I walked further up the valley towards the village of Las Herrerias where I would start my steep climb the views opened out.
I climbed out of the village on the road.
I left the road turning down onto the footpath. It seemed counter intuitive to be going down in order to start a mountain climb. The path to start with was through woodland. It was very steep and every bit as challenging as expected. I stopped often to rest. I wasn’t the fastest as several, much younger people, I hasten to add passed me, neither was I the slowest. As I climbed further the views opened out.
I crossed the border into the province of Galicia and looked back. It was somehow significant as this felt like the beginning of the end.
Eventually I reached the village of O Cebreiro on the mountain top which was my destination for today. I was so thankful to have managed the climb up the mountain and to get there in a reasonable time. It was about noon and I walked through the village to the Municipal Albergue to make sure I got a bed. As it happened I needn’t have worried as there was plenty of room. When I arrived I was about number 35 in the queue, though more kept coming as I waited.
The view from the Albergue was awesome.
I got myself settled and showered and did my laundry then walked back into the village to get a drink and something to eat. In the end I bought food at the local shiop and got a beer. I had to have an Estrella de Galicia to celebrate my arrival in the final Province of my walk.
The village itself was picture postcard perfect though quite touristy.
I checked out the church, saying a quick prayer and decided to return later for the Pilgrim’s Mass and Benediction.
The Mass was wonderful and I do remember feeling the drops of Holy Water as the priest blessed the congregation. The Benediction was sublime. The pilgrims gathered around the altar at the front of the church, then after a short talk about the love of God, one person from each nationality / language was invited forward to read a prayer. I was chosen as the English representative. It was a powerful moment. Finally each of us were given a tiny pebble with a yellow cross painted on. I still have that as a memento of that day. A physical, mental and a spiritual high!