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Monday 15th May 2023

Distance 14km / 8.7 miles

Villar de Mazarife – Hospital de Orbigo

Thankfully today was a fresh new day. I had rested and after saying Morning Prayer I was on the pilgrim trail again. As I left the village I passed a distance marker which I felt was significant. From now on I had less than 300km to go before reaching Santiago.

I knew today was a short walk and I was feeling more relaxed even though I planned to stay at the parochial albergue which didn’t take reservations. I passed this garden in the village of Villavante which had this charming garden ornament.

More straight tracks ahead before crossing over a main road and walking through the village of Puente de Orbigo where you get the first view of the iconic bridge.

It was very early when I crossed the bridge and arrived in the village of Hospital de Orbigo. I sat on abench opposite the church to relax in the morning sun. WHo should I see but George from Liverpool again! We chatted for a while then he set off as he wasn’t staying in this village tonight.

I had a look around and then checked in as soon as I could. Today was a day for catching up with old friends as April was staying there too, who I had first met at Zabaldika on my third day.

It was a beautiful place built around a courtyard and a garden at the back. It was full of quirky sculptures, art pieces and several pieces with text about pilgrimage and the Blessed Virgin.

I had plenty of time in the afternoon to get some shopping done and something to eat. A priority was calling at a pharmacy to get something to treat my toe. I came away with plasters and a tube thing to protect it and some iodine stuff to combat the infection. I also went to a bar and had a decent meal and a beer. As I came out of there I saw a procession passing with a Saint’s statue and carrying some kind of farming implement.

In the evening at the Albergue those who wished to could gather for a special pilgrim gathering with the local priest. There was 4 or 5 pilgrims there including April. The priest only spoke Spanish so one of the hospitaleras who happened to be Hungarian translated into English. He spoke about the history of the Camino and the town and began bemoaning the fact there were fewer ‘religious’ pilgrims and more tourists. He then asked each one of us why we were on the pilgrimage and what churches we went to. April and I were both ‘Episcopalians’ and he proceeded to tell April about Luther and the Reformation. He agreed that the Catholic church needed to change then but his conclusion was that we would be better if we returned to the fold. Chatting to April afterwards I shared that it felt like he thought we were wayward children. I had a lovely conversation with April that evening which covered all kinds of subjects including biblical interpretation! Today ended we me in a much better frame of mind than yesterday.

Sunday 14th May 2023

Distance 21.2 km / 13 miles

Puente de Castro, Leon – Villar de Mazarife

Up and ready to go at the crack of dawn. Once again a convenient park bench to say Morning Prayer as the sun rises. I set out to walk through the centre of Leon. It starts out with wide roads and tall modern apartments and offices with all the shops and businesses of any modern city until you come to the old city. You first see the remnants of the city wall. and the lion which is the cities symbol. I love too the artwork of the Virgin too and the sense that there is no distinction between sacred and secular space.

As I walked to the Cathedral it was clear that early on a Sunday Morning there were two other groups of people apart from those who were obviously pilgrims. The workers hosing down the streets and the mainly younger people who were still out from the night before. The architecture was beautiful and it was nice to walk through before the crowds of tourists filled the streets and squares.

On the way out of the city centre you pass this beautiful cross and it’s iconic statue of a pilgrim. Then across the bridge and into the suburbs.

The suburbs then gave way to scrub and industrial estates before coming to La Virgen del Camino. I am sure this town may have had ancient roots but they certain weren’t in evidence as I walked through. Even the church had been rebuilt in what I thought was a really beautiful way.

This day was going well it had been full of interest and I even loved the contrast of the ancient and the modern. I had decided to take what was billed as a scenic alternative route and had booked a bed in the Village of Villar de Mazarife.

The route started out through scrubland outside the village then there was a lot of crossing over and under modern roads and junctions before reading over the hills on some quiet roads.

It was down into a valley and the tiny village of Oncina de la Valdoncina and onto a dirt track up the other side. Today was certainly a walk with plenty of variety.

I think I was getting weary by this point in the day. I hadn’t had a proper rest break and my feet were quite sore. The blister on my toe was particularly problematic, when I checked later in the evening I was concerned that it was beginning to show signs of infection. The last section of the day was at the side of a road. It was fairly flat and straight but as so often when you are looking forward to the end of the walking day, it never seems to come quick enough. My mood seemed to plummet for some reason I am not quite sure why and this low mood remained with me for the rest of the evening.

Eventually I did reach my destination, the Albergue de Jesus. It was quite nice and very busy with the bar populated by locals from the village. I was all out of sorts though and couldn’t settle and relax. This was one of those times when I didn’t interact with other pilgrims at all. It was definitely a low point and for no real reason.

Saturday 13th May 2023

Distance 21.7km / 13.5 miles

Reliegos – Leon

I had booked a bed at the Albergue Santo Tomas de Canterbury, it felt kind of appropriate. It was located in the suburb of Puente de Castro which meant I wouldn’t have to walk all the way in the City of Leon today. I was able to find a quiet bench to say Morning Prayer then set off. I quickly passed through the village of Mansilla de las Mulas with its interesting sculpture

Then there was a lot of walking beside the road towards the city of Leon. There was more and more buildings and businesses – it was clear I was leaving the countryside and approaching the city.

I passed a series of car dealerships then the trail started climbing over the Alto de Portillo.

Once over that hill then the city of Leon was there and the walk through city streets began.

Walking through the city streets I looked up and even amongst the busyness and noise were storks nests.

Thankfully it wasn’t too long before I arrived at my Albergue. It was very nice inside but somehow the ground floor of an apartment block doesn’t seem to have that pilgrim vibe.

I got checked in and sorted then had a beer while I decided what do do. I had an afternoon to explore this wonderful city. The Cathedral is supposed to be one of the best examples of Gothic architecture with sublime stained glass. The city centre too is a tourist’s dream. The more I thought about it though the more I felt that if I went to the cathedral it would be out of guilt because it was the thing I ought to do. I just wasn’t in the mood for being a tourist. In the end I opted for an alternative view of Leon. I decided I would go for a McDonalds.

As I set off I discovered there were some nice bits around Puente de Castro.

I was quite interested though by the massive expanse of semi developed land I walked through. Grandiose housing schemes left half finished.

I arrived at McDonalds and sat outside and people watched. I felt like this was as much the real Leon as if I was sitting outside the Cathedral. There was a Lidl store there too which was an added bonus so I was able to stock up with snacks etc. All in all as I arrived back at the Albergue I didn’t feel as if I had missed out on anything at all.

Friday 12th May 2023

Distance 20km / 12.4 miles

Bercianos del Real Camino – Reliegos

Today’s walk was primarily along tree lined paths along the road. I was wanting to make sure I had enough distance in the bank so I could be more flexible towards the end. The walking was easy and I had plenty of time to think. This was however one of those days where I hadn’t booked anything so part of my thinking was will I get a bed.

It was rolling countryside but there was a real sense that the Meseta was almost over. I would be in the City of Leon the next day and I could look forward to some more varied scenery. I had my first sightings of mountains in the distance. I saw a beautiful rainbow as I walked over the brow of the hill before the village of Reliegos.

It was threatening rain as I entered the village. I walked through the streets until I found the Municipal hostel and was pleased to discover I was one of the first to arrive so I knew I would get a bed. The dormitory was one of these where they crammed as many bunk beds in as physically possible. I was glad I was able to get a bottom bunk in the corner out of the way.

I had time after I got showered to go into the town, have something to eat at a bar and get some snacks for later at the local shop. Whilst I was in the shop there was a heavy shower of rain but it soon passed. I was pleased to see April who I had seen at Zabaldika and Burgos was at the same hostel. She had decided to get a bus into Leon the next day as the walk into the city was supposed to be uninspiring, through suburbs and city streets.

Thursday 11th May 2023

Distance 26.3km / 16.3 miles

Ledigos – Bercianos del Real Camino

I took advantage that the bar was open early at the hostel and had my regular coffee and neapolitana before setting off. It was a cool start to the day but I soon warmed up with the rolling hills.

One of my fascinations on this journey has been the storks, with their nests on buildings that I passed. I grew up not really knowing what a real stork looked like but knew they brought babies. I also saw some feeding in the fields and managed a highly zoomed photo, with no babies in sight.

On the way into the little village of Moratinos I noticed this sign which made me smile. I cannot comment on whether it was true as I didn’t stop at either since it was a bit too soon for me.

The walking was good and quite cool. I noticed a distance marker which indicated I was almost half way.

Going down a hill I was entranced by this path with beautiful wild flowers on both sides. It felt like a processional way.

Soon after we were getting close to the town of Sahagun when I came across the monument which is supposed to mark the half way point. This is disputed!

Sahagun looked to be a really interesting place but I didn’t stop beyond taking a short refreshment break.

I pressed on and arrived at the Bercianos 1900 Albergue. It was quite well appointed and had a nice bar/restaurant. I had a shower and took advantage of their washing machines to get some laundry done. I got by most of the time doing things by hand but a proper wash every now and again did make a lot of difference. I had a beer to celebrate the end of my walking day and after a rest had a rather nice pizza followed by ice cream. The bunk beds were normal though they had fitted curtains which gave some feeling of privacy. It was a good feeling to think I was now over half way.

Wednesday 10th May 2023

Distance 23.4km / 14.5 miles

Carrion de los Condes – Ledigos

The guidebook warned me about today,

We pass through a flat and somewhat featureless landscape with little or no shade… Anticipate no facilities with no water and no toilets

John Brierley

I had low expectations about today and to be honest it became a bit of a grind though it wasn’t as featureless as I feared.

There were some attractive views as I left Carrion in the morning after Morning Prayer in the square outside the hostel.

This bit with woodland and rivers soon gave way to the long straight road. Whilst it was easy walking I did feel troubled by the little blister on my toe. This was a day when I practised my Nordic Walking technique. It certainly propelled me forward that bit faster. It took me a while but I did finally remember that this was a great example of a Roman road, obviously with some resurfacing since it was built. In so many places it was built on a causeway across the low lying and wet land (now drained). It was interesting to think that not only Romans had walked along this road but countless others over the intervening two thousand years.

A pop up cafe was open, thankfully so I was able to stop and have my normal coffee and pastries. As I set off walking again my mind was free to roam without having to worry about navigation or where I was going to sleep. I had booked a bed at the Albergue Morena at Ledigos. Among the thoughts I had was how the parochial hostels I had stayed in so far had punched above their weight in terms of hospitality and impact. The churches themselves seemed like so many in this country with congregations of a few, mainly older people, yet with a few committed volunteers they were providing something special to hundreds of volunteers each year.

I also was surprised to realise as I walked that I had come to terms with my mortality. I felt that if I died now I would be ok with that, it’s kind of difficult to explain. I could die in peace knowing that I and my life were accepted by God. Of course it’s immediately followed by the thought that while its ok to die now I’d rather stick around for a while longer!

At the end of today’s walk I came to a slightly hilly section with a scenic option. I wasn’t confident about the way marking so I continued on the main route. I entered the village and had to go all the way through to get to the albergue. It was quite modern and had a restaurant as well as a bar. I checked in and discovered this was one of the new places where the beds were in pods. You crawled in at the end and then pulled down a blind. Thankfully I didn’t have any claustrophobia. I got showered and did my laundry as usual then decided to treat myself to a Sangria. This was the first one I had, had in Spain and very nice it was too. I was on a roll and then had the meal of the day in the restaurant. This was a very different experience to yesterday’s accommodation.

Tuesday 9th May 2023

Distance 10km / 6.2 miles

Villarmentero de Campos – Carrion de los Condes

It was a short walk today. I got ready and was able to sit on a bench at the front of the Albergue and watch the dawn lighten the sky as I said Morning prayer. There was a load of food set out on a donation basis so I was able to get breakfast before I set off. My blister though small, wasn’t healing and was a reminder of my frailty. As I walked beside the fields I was captivated by the colour and contrast of the difference between the brown and the green together with the poppies.

It was a cool morning and easy walking over the rolling hills and I arrived in Carrion de los Condes by about 10.30, far too soon for the parochial Albergue to be open.

As I had plenty of time I went into the church. It was lovely and peaceful and had some background Gregorian chant playing.

O prayed my prayers and lit a candle in front of the statue of Sancta Maria del Camino o de las Victorias. It seemed appropriate.

When I came out of the church I saw a pilgrim on a bench who looked like he was waiting for the Albergue to open. I chatted to him and discovered he was from Argentina. While we were chatting someone else arrived and started the queue for the Albergue. The queue quickly grew and was quite convivial with people coming and going as they went to get something to eat. There were quite a lot of young people including a large group of Italians. A Russian girl who I had met at the hostel in Burgos arrived too.

Opening time came soon enough and a smiling Augustinian Nun checked us in. The dormitories were very crowded with hardly any space between the bunk beds but at least I got my normal bottom bunk being an older pilgrim. The only disappointment was that there was no communal meal here. I felt a bit isolated here, this was one of those occasions where everyone seemed to know everyone else except me. I noticed a group of young people who I had seen on and off for a few days – I missed having a bond like theirs for a few moments but then remembered that my interactions seemed to be with individuals.

I had a wander round the town in the afternoon and decided I would have a picnic. I got some bread, cheese, chorizo and fruit at a supermarket and found a bench in the park beside the river.

After I had eaten I thought I would take some photos beside the river. I noticed a completely naked man having a wash beside the river bank. his was beside the bridge in the middle of a public park. Obviously the cultural norms I was used to don’t apply here.

I returned to the Albergue and had a nap. The nuns were due to say Vespers in the church at 5.30 so I went along. I was still seeking my spiritual refreshment. Yet more disappointment as when the Sisters arrived a tour guide was in full flow in the church so they turned around and disappeared. I still had the opportunity to participate in the singing session though.

The Nuns gathered in the entrance hall of the hostel and there was quite a group of pilgrims crammed into every available space. One had a guitar and they handed out song sheets. There were songs in many different languages. As they sang I really felt them not just singing but sharing their love. They asked pilgrims who wished to to sing a song – I stayed quiet at that point. They then told us that the next morning they would pray for each one of the pilgrims who stayed there that night. I had got what I was hoping for by way of spiritual uplift.

I went to the Pilgrims Mass in the church which was a incomprehensible as usual but the pilgrims blessing afterwards was sublime. One of the nuns was translating the words of the priest. He explained how important the Eucharist was then each pilgrim was given a little paper star. They had been prepared by hand by the nuns. The stars referred to the Compostella the field of stars, (MIlky Way) which has guided pilgrims for centuries. In the darkness they would follow the stars. We could look at our star and seek the guidance of God on our journey.

My initial disappointment was blown away by the intensity of emotion I felt at the love and care from the Sisters and the church. I still don’t get the devotion to Mary though. At the end of the Benediction everyone went to the statue of the Virgin where I had lit a candle in the morning and sang Salve Regina. Despite that the evening had been every bit the spiritual boost I had been looking for.

Another great day and only 401kms to go.

Monday 8th May

Distance 23.6km / 14.6 miles

Itero de la Vega – Villarmentero de Campos

No one in the dorm was obviously awake so I was the first one to get up for a change. I got ready and set off in the dawn light and found some stone benches at the edge of the village. I said Morning Prayer and just as I started walking again I felt something different about my right foot. When I checked I noticed a blister just on the end of my little toe. It’s kind of strange I had not noticed it before. I thought it was strange that I seem to get blisters when I’m stressed and push on when walking without resting properly

It was a pleasant walk and I got into a steady rhythm with my poles. It enabled my mind to wander freely. I was musing about my experience so far. I think that maybe my day at Zabaldika shouldn’t be expected to be the norm on my journey – like life it couldn’t be lived at that intensity. I still have more than half of the way to complete. Today brought a sense of contentment and refreshment of purpose.

I came across George from Liverpool, again! We stopped at Boadilla del Camino for a coffee but I left him there to have a second cup and a bocadillo while I pushed on.

The next section of the walk went from fields to canal side. It made for a different experience with boards describing the birds to be seen not that it was much help as it was in Spanish of course. It was a refreshing change even if the terrain remained quite flat today.

II left the canal just before Fromista where I had a refreshment break and got some cash from a handy ATM. Walking the Camino you realise that here at least cash is still king in so many places.

I didn’t linger too long in Fromista and once again pushed on until I reached Poblacion de Campos, where I had some juice and a comfort break then picked up some lunch at a Supermercado. With a name like that I had expected them to be bigger but in the smaller towns and villages they had the name of a supermarket but were essentially local convenience stores. The next stage of the walk involved a choice, walking beside a road with no shade or beside a river with shade. I am not quite sure why but I chose the road!

I did find the variety of crops and fields interesting though believe it or not. I eventually reached my Albergue and it had a lovely relaxed feel to it. Hammocks in the garden with geese and a couple of donkeys on the other side of the fence. It had a ‘hippyish’ vibe I decided. The Ukrainian flag out front was because there was a Ukrainian girl working there. I had a lovely refreshing beer when I arrived and an ice cream.

Who should appear at the Albergue but George from Liverpool. We had another long chat. I did my laundry and just lounged about in the garden. This was the fabled George from Liverpool strumming on a guitar which was lying around.

The geese were cute even if I did get pecked once or twice.

The communal meal was the best I had had so far. Salad, Vegetable soup, Pasta and Sauce, and Pork Loin with a yoghurt to finish. I was really full especially as I had eaten on the way. At dinner I spoke with an American mother and daughter who I would have taken as sisters. I am sure I had noticed them before somewhere.

I managed to book accommodation for Wednesday and Thursday. It would just be a short day tomorrow to Carrion de los Condes where I planned to stay at the parochial hostel. I needed a dose of spiritual refreshment.

Sunday 7th May

Distance 20.2km / 12.5 miles

Hontanas – Itero de la Vega

I got up as early as I could, got packed in the common room and said Morning Prayer on the terrace as dawn broke. As I set off I realised I hadn’t thought to have a look round the village yesterday. It was quite charming. I even wondered what the parochial albergue would have been like.

This was another day of not knowing where I would sleep that night. It does colour the way I walk as I am less likely to stop and enjoy. On the outskirts of the village there was a handy reminder of how far I still had left to walk.

I spent the first part of the walk chatting with George from Liverpool. It was strange how two people who walked at very different speeds kept meeting each other and often seemed to stay in the same places. George also seemed to stop at every cafe or bar for a coffee. As we walked together along a beautiful valley I couldn’t help feel sorry for the pilgrims who thought the Meseta was boring.

George and me parted company again before we reached the Arco San Anton. Its a very atmospheric place and one of the places which I had thought it would be good to stay. It has no electricity! It’s arch still spans the trail as it did centuries ago.

It was relatively easy walking though in places they had re-surfaced the trail with chippings which seemed to make it more difficult to walk. Soon we were in sight of Castrojeriz. A beautiful village built around the hill on which is a ruined castle. Yet another place I had thought of staying. On a Sunday morning the place seemed dead, not even a nice bar to stop for refreshment.

All that was open was the church of Santa Clara. I took the opportunity to pray and have a look around. It was more of a museum than a functioning church.

Once you are through the quiet streets of the village you go downhill and I was confronted by a very high and steep hill, the Alto de Mostelares. I had read so much stuff before I started this journey which talked about this part of the way (the Meseta) as being boring. It was flat and there were no mountains. I can however confirm that there were still hills and this was a significant one at a height of 900m. This was one of those hills where I had to stop frequently on the way up. The views were worth it though.

Thankfully there was a covered shelter at the top which had seats! A rest was just what I needed. and then going down the other side the view was different but every bit as impressive.

After some steady walking down the hill and across the plain, I had hoped to stay at a little Albergue – a little hermitage, the Ermita de San Nicolas. Sadly there was already a considerable number of pilgrims waiting to get in and I decided there were already going to be some who would be disappointed. Anxiety was beginning to creep in and I carried on with the hope that I could find a bed in the next village, Itero de la Vega. I crossed over a bridge which was the border into the region of Palencia. There was a policeman standing there beside his vehicle. He was armed too. On later did I wonder whether he would have been ok with me taking his photo.I walked through the village and went into the first Albergue I found and they had beds! What a relief.

It was a very basic place, it felt like it had fallen on hard times. It was an odd place, everything apart from the bed seemed to be on a donation basis, even the can of beer I had while waiting in the garden for check-in. I really didn’t have the energy to look around the village, I was so tired. After getting my shower and doing my laundry I lay on my bed and fell asleep. I woke up, with a headache.

The communal meal was a mixture, the food was uninspiring but the company was excellent. There was a soup followed by a stew. Sadly the soup felt like it was the thinned down liquid from the stew. I had given my donation for the meal in advance and I might have been tempted to reduce the amount! I chatted to several people I had met before including the ever present George from Liverpool.

I still wasn’t feeling so great so went to bed early. At least I had reserved a bed for tomorrow which made for a more restful sleep.

Saturday 6th May

Distance 31.5km / 19.5 miles

Burgos – Hontanas

Today was not a day to be up and about before dawn. The rules said you couldn’t leave until after breakfast. It was a simple shared breakfast of bread and jam with coffee. Staying in this parochial albergue was just what I needed. The accommodation was quite modern and very clean and the hospitality was second to none. Thinking back I recognised something about the seriousness of being a pilgrim, not an absence of joy, but more how this was not a task to be undertaken casually. It was 8.00am by the time I left. I had no place reserved to sleep that night and it was preying on my mind. I kept reminding myself of the promises of God but it dominated the walk today.

The walk out of Burgos was ok, though the route in the centre of the city wasn’t well marked. So it was through extensive suburbs and the University out into the countryside.

I got to the village of Rabe del Camino and stopped at a cafe for a drink and a comfort break. It was only mid morning and too soon to stop for the day so I continued on. This was the start of the area called the Meseta. Its mainly rolling hills with endless wheat fields, occasional villages and for some people very little else. Some pilgrims even get a bus and miss this section out altogether. Some guidebooks talk about this region being a challenge to the mind, the first part being a physical challenge, I’m not sure but I wasn’t going to miss it.

The village of Hornillos del Camino was my new goal for the day. It was getting hot and the trail went up and down, though it felt more up than down. I arrived at Hornillos full of hope only to discover that ‘there was no room at the inn’. Every albergue I came to had a Completo sign saying they were full. I tried a couple without signs but they were full too. It seemed the place was overrun with pilgrims, there were even backpacks lying in the streets. At this point I began to panic. I telephoned the municipal Albergue in the next village Hontanas and worked out with my rudimentary Spanish that they had space now but they couldn’t reserve anything. I realised all I could do was walk to the next village and hope for the best. It was a further 10.5km / 6 miles through hot and barren countryside. I was not mentally prepared for that.

I finally arrived in Hontanas, hot, sweaty, tired and aching all over. As I entered the village I saw the Albergue Juan de Yepes. I went in and stood in a queue at the reception/bar. I couldn’t quite believe it when they said they had beds and checked me in. It made me wonder whether I am really cut out for this faith thing.

After showering and doing my laundry I was sitting having a beer when I came across Cublin and his partner who I had met before Burgos. It was good to catch up. I also got talking with a lad from Liverpool. He had already walked the Camino five times so this was his sixth. He gave the reason for setting out as his feelings of despair, as a lifelong Everton supporter fearing that they might be relegated. I got into a surprisingly deep conversation with him and learnt about his poor upbringing with his father in prison most of the time and his embracing of Buddhism.

There was a lovely communal meal. While I eat a lot of paella I chatted to a couple of ladies from New Zealand and an Irish couple. The day ended on a high despite the challenges getting this far.