Granite Roots

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  • A Bus Stop on my Pilgrim Journey

    A Bus Stop on my Pilgrim Journey

    Over the last few weeks my church has been advertising an Alpha Course which begins this week. On the face of it a good thing and for most people a positive step towards a deeper faith in God. I however have a complicated past and my decision whether or not to take part has resulted in a lot of soul searching. Today was an especially difficult day. This is my way of making sense of how I feel.

    I look on my life as a pilgrimage, a journey. I look back on my childhood and teens growing up in my local church with great fondness. I had a conversion experience when I was sixteen and after several years ended up pioneering a pentecostal church. My faith meant that I knew my place with God and I had a settled world view. However it all ended in disaster and I was left with no faith, no church, no God. That faith I had which was all encompassing had somehow disappeared like thick fog burning off on a hot day.

    I then began a gradual process of accepting myself and discovered a real contentment. I The God I had known was no longer there but in many ways I didn’t miss Him or at least I was not aware of it.

    Last year that changed and I believe God reached out to me and set me walking on my pilgrim journey.

    For whatever reason I have set my sights on walking the Camino Frances, this year, approximately 500 miles across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostella. Over the past few months I have watched hundreds of YouTube videos about this. I have picked up on several discussions about how the thousands of pilgrims each year make that journey. Some walk all the way, some cycle, some will get buses part of the way. I suppose there are as many ways of making that pilgrimage as there are people. For me walking is my thing and carrying all I need on my back is part of that too.

    In the context of my current decision I likened the part of my pilgrim journey those years ago when I was firm in my evangelical faith as me getting on a bus. I know this is a bit weird but this is just me trying to make sense of the very real fear and anxiety which overwhelmed me this morning. This is not an perfect picture and it will I am sure, fall apart if I trying to fit everything into it. I mean that in getting on the bus I was sharing my experience with others going to the same place. It implies a commitment to go together with shared values. I got on this evangelical bus and it was great. I even ended up driving! But then I crashed and life as I had known it ended.

    I was trying to work out this week why the idea of participating in an online course with people I am coming to know and trust, who have my best interests at heart was causing me such anxiety. I have come to the conclusion that it’s because it felt like getting on a bus again. What it was doing was triggering my memories of my last spiritual bus jouney and the crash.

    So here I am at a bus stop with a choice to continue walking or to get on that bus. For now, I am content that my pilgrimage is a walking one. I can go at a pace I am comfortable with, and a route that is being revealed to me.

  • Retirement Projects

    Retirement Projects

    I’ll say it loud and clear – as of now retirement is the best thing that ever happened to me. I am having the time of my life! I had spent quite a lot of time before it happened thinking about what I would do. I was going to do it anyway but you can’t help it when you get asked the question on a not infrequent basis, What are you going to do when you retire?

    The first thing was my back garden. When I became a widower in 2019 I decided I wanted to remodel it with the idea of growing vegetables. I had tried on and off with odd vegetable plant and a couple of fruit bushes but it wasn’t focussed and they disappeared under the undergrowth surrounding the weed sown lawn. I now had the freedom to do something radical and began. Apart from getting outside and back to nature I wanted to eat more veg, in particular, I wanted to eat more interesting veg and also to have a supply of fresh herbs. This was my big thing even before I retired and was helped no end by the first lockdown.

    Family History was a thing I had thought about doing for ages about but never got around to. It was going to be saved until retirement but during lockdown my son started doing some so I got drawn into it. It is massivley time consuming which when you are retired is a good thing.

    A late entry in the list is Classical Music. I inherited a substantial amount of Classical Music CDs when my friend died last year complete with his HiFi system. I now have many, many hours of listening to come.

    Walking however was and is the ‘main event’. Local walking, Nordic Walking, long distance walking. This now includes camping and backpacking. I have always known it to be the best way I can sort out my thoughts and am more aware of it’s benefit to my mental health. I have been reading books about it too.

    I have met several people who have spoken of their experience of retirement. One in particular springs to mind who I met while walking in Windy Nook Nature Park. He told me how he got bored after retiring and went back to work part time. He never mentioned any financial reason. The thought of returning to employment fills me with horror.

  • Art Appreciation

    Art Appreciation

    This started when I found my way to Windy Nook a local environmental sculpture on one of my local walks. I just love it for the views – yet I recognised from the outset that this sculpture had been altered by the addition of graffiti which at first I thought detracted from it but then I began to think added to it.

    SInce then as I walk around my locla area I am taking time to look at public art both official and unofficial and whilst I would not presume to understand I think I am coming to appreciate more and more.

    I begun to see more and more of this art.

    Does this count as art?
  • Pilgrimage

    Pilgrimage

    An unexpected change in my life occurred in 2022, Walking became intertwined with pilgrimage. I had been living quite contentedly without faith for over twenty years and I had no plans to change that. I had also made walking the major theme for my retirement. While reading around the subject and dreaming of the walks I could do I came across those who were talking about pilgrimage and that idea stayed in the back of my mind.

    The catalyst for change was the tragic illness and death of my dearest friend in April and May of 2022. During my daily visits while he was in the hospice I was there when the chaplain came to give him communion. When asked if I wanted to stay and share this with them I said yes – it was such an easy decision to make, yet one based not on rational thought but raw emotion of my heart. Thinking back now it was out of my love for John and the desire to share every significant moment I could in the time we had left. Whatever the reason was it opened up my life to faith and begun my current pilgrim journey.

    It was a few days later I think when I had a day off from visiting and I woke up early and on impulse decided to make a pilgrimage, to walk from home to Durham Cathedral. I had previously scoped out the route but hadn’t planned to do it in one go as it was further than I had typically walked. But by 6.30am I was out of the door and on my way.

    As I walked John was in my thoughts as were some words which I had noticed from that days Morning Prayer.

    In your unfailing love, O Lord, you lead the people whom you have redeemed. And by your invincible strength you will guide them to your holy dwelling. You will bring them in and plant them, O Lord, in the sanctuary which your hands have established.

    It was a great walk and despite blisters I made it to the cathedral in the early afternoon. I hobbled to St Cuthbert’s shrine behind the choir and sat; I couldn’t walk any further. I began to talk to St Cuthbert all the while my rational brain was telling me not to be so stupid as even if he was there, he’d been dead thirteen hundred years.

    It was such a profound moment I realized then that somehow I had found faith again. Not the faith I had left behind but something new which just felt so right.

    The next day I told John and the chaplain all about my pilgrimage and how I had told St Cuthbert all about him. As I left the chaplain gave me a piece of paper with these these words ..

    Lord of every pilgrim heart,
    bless our journeys on these roads
     we never planned to take,
    but through your surprising wisdom
     discovered we were on

  • My Journey Resumes

    My Journey Resumes

    I am just remembering now that one of my favourite books as a child was a Sunday School Prize, Pilgrim’s Progress by John Bunyan – I am not sure why. I loved the idea of the pilgrim’s journey his adventures and his eventual arrival. I don’t think I was ever concerned with the spiritual significance of his journey in a very deep way but there was definitely something about it which attracted me.

    I can think of two pilgrimages I remember from the days of my youth. The first was the pilgrimage(s) on Jersey to St Helier’s Hermitage. I can remember walking across the causeway wearing cassock and surplice.

    Not me but it gives the idea

    I can remember too while I was living in London in 1973/4 going on a pilgrimage from Guildford to Chichester to the shrine of St Richard. I can’t remeber much about it apart from walking across the Downs and sleeping on the floor of a church hall.

    Who would have thought that so many years later I would be walking across the sand again , but this time to Holy Island for a different saint. The featured image records that walk in thick fog. I was struck by the thought that whilst I knew my final destination I could see only a very short way ahead one or two poles and a short way behind. That was such a clear illustration of my journey.

    It has struck me recently that I am resuming a journey, a pilgrimage which I began in the days of my youth which had been on pause for so many years.

  • Musings

    Musings

    Often when I’m walking random thoughts and ideas pop into my head – some of them are worth cultivating.

  • My initial idea

    My initial idea

    Growing through the Seasons

    January 5th 2023

    This morning as Christmas ends and transitions into Epiphany and what in my memory is the coldest part of winter, though with climate change who knows now my thoughts turned to how I might frame this year. Two main things prompted this reflection, my practice of daily prayer and the realisation I hadn’t taken down last year’s calendar

    Last year I bought “Growing through the Seasons 2022” from Vital seeds. A celebration of fruit and vegetables. This calendar will guide you on a wonderful journey throughout the year …. I certainly had a wonderful journey in 2022 – several of them as it happens though the poor garden never quite lived up to its expectations with the number of other things crowding into my life. If I had a new year’s resolution it would be to be able to multitask and not to neglect any of my retirement tasks. So this year I hope to embrace distractions as I plan my garden year.

    Last year my appreciation of the seasons grew as I walked in so many places. Not just the wide open spaces of Hadrian’s Wall, St Cuthbert’s Way or the varied places I went with the Nordic Walking Group but the regular walks in my local nature park. It is such a joy to be slow enough to be present and to appreciate plants, trees, birds and insects, the wonders of nature. I look forward to more of that this year.

    I began a routine of Daily Payer using the Church of England’s Common Worship at the beginning of Advent last year. Seasons were more obvious when I was growing up – I lived on a farm until I was eleven and going to my local parish church was part of life. It just seemed to make sense. I loved the changing colours and decoartions in the church and the rhythms of penitence, relction and celebration.

    I want to focus more on the seasons of nature and prayer to frame my thinking and activities, my pilgrimage. I want to reject the commercial seasons and take things at my own pace.

  • Meanderings

    Meanderings

    Meanderings is all about how I see my walks. Whilst I’m typically walking with a purpose to a destination it’s not necessarily the most direct route or the fastest, such things are now unimportant because I have time. Retirement has transformed the way I live life as now I no longer have deadlines. When I walk, I can take my time and look around me, I can take detours, I can stop and listen and smell. When I drove the car, it was such a different experience. I had to concentrate on the road, typically even if I wanted to, there was nowhere to stop, and I got to my destination without much appreciation of what I had passed through.

  • Walking

    Walking

    I have always loved walking, indeed looking back I recognise it’s the best way of helping me to think. As I prepared for my retirement, I was certain that walking was going to be a big part of what I wanted to do.

    Walking is a way of slowing down. Working life seemed like a constant round of activity with no time to take notice of the world around me and I wanted that to change.

    I have noticed so much that I am routinely amazed by the beauty around me. The way the light transforms bare branches in winter, the vibrant colours of hedgerow flowers and fruit. As I walk around Gateshead where I live, I discover not just the parks both traditional and nature but the footpaths, and wagonways which lead through pockets of woodland or scrub, what I like to call micro countryside.

    I am not sure if there are many places where I walk which have not been altered in some way by human activity, but I don’t consider this something bad. These layers of history create a landscape with so much interest.

    There also seems to be a lot of evidence that walking is good for our health, both mental and physical. I hope this will keep me active and healthier for years to come.

  • The Coast to Holy Island

    The Coast to Holy Island

    Day Five – St Cuthbert’s Way

    I woke up on my final day’s walking to thick fog. I had pitched my tent so I could get up in the morning and look out across the sea to Holy Island and I couldn’t see a thing.

    I had plenty of time this morning as I had to wait for the tide to go out. I had checked and re-checked the tide times, looked at several different websites and was confident I had the safest start time for my walk across the sands. I decided I would treat myself to a proper breakfast. Sadly though much as I enjoyed it something was off – not the food which was excellent but my sense of taste.

    It was time though to set out on the final stage of this walk. Holy Island and four nights in Marygate House retreat house was my reason and my reward for the previous days walking. I set out in my sandals down the track, once I got on to the sands I would walk in bare feet. It was still foggy but I was confident I would be able to see the poles showing me the way.

    Just as I was taking off my sandals some other walkers arrived. It was the mother and son who I had noticed briefly on the road to Morebattle and again at Kirk Yetholm Hostel. The son had the biggest backpack I had seen. It was good though to share this final stage of the trail with them. WE didn’t always walk together each of us walked at our own pace but I was glad of the company.

    The walk across the sands was full of expectation as to what lay ahead mixed with memories of the walk and distant memories of the days I had spent barefoot on the beach as a youth. Other thoughts you can read here

    Holy Island did eventually appear and I was pleased to walk up the beach to the handily placed bench. I looked back to see my companions for the morning just appearing through the fog.

    I had done it – it was a struggle and a few anxious moments were mixed in with the beauty of the countryside but the hard part was over.

  • Wooler to the Coast

    Wooler to the Coast

    Day 4 – St Cuthbert’s Way

    Once again I woke up with a renewed sense of enthusiasm and purpose. I only had one more full day to go and I wasn’t far from the coast wasn’t I? According to the map there seemed to be just three ridges of hills to cross, I could do this.

    It was a pleasant enough walking out of Wooler in the early morning sun. The town was quiet and I had opted to grabbing breakfast and other supplies from the Co-op on my way out. After a steady climb onto Westwood Moor it was satisfying to look back a few times and reflect on how far I had come. It was certainly more encouraging than looking at the next hill I had to climb.

    Looking back
    Looking Ahead
    Looking Back Again

    The scenery today felt different again from all the other days. I felt privileged to have the opportunity to walk through this wonderful countryside. I had a couple of stops and my scheduled mid day rest break was St Cuthbert’s Cave but there always seemed to be another hill before I got there.

    I was struggling up the track towards the ridge before St Cuthbert’s Cave, feeling the heat and conscious of my lack of strength when I turned the corner and had such a wonderful surprise. There was St Cuthbert, or at least a carved statue.

    There was a bench to sit on and a sign on the fence beside it.

    I was so thankful for the kindness of strangers and especially that the message was directed at Pilgrims not just walkers. I felt so confident now that I had made the right decision to walk and make this pilgrimage on my journey to Holy Island.

    My euphoria wasn’t to last long, I still had one more ridge to climb before St Cuthbert’s Cave before I could begin my long descent to the coast. It was hot and despite drinking loads my strength began to fail. I felt like I had just made it as I got to the cave and sat down on a rock, and had some lunch. I knew I needed a rest before I could go any further…… Then I woke up!

    I had either passed out or just fallen asleep – I am not sure what but it scared me – what would have happened if had really been ill and unable to carry on. There were a few people around as it was a sunny Sunday afternoon but if I’d been really on my own. I wasn’t feeling at my best as I carried on, the main feeling was a determination to finish this, not matter what.

    As I continued on I came across a large bull surrounded by his harem of cows. I wasn’t in a mood to diverge from the trail and add more kilometres to my journey so I remember praying to St Cuthbert as he had this affinity with animals, to protect me as a passed them. Thankfully all I experienced was a bored look from the bull.

    Somehow I don’t think I appreciated the countryside so much on this final stage to the coast. I certainly don’t have any photos. I could see the coast through the haze but was more concerned that I wasn’t quite there and I was running on empty. As always seems to be the way on the final stretch of my day’s walking the destination seems to get further and further away. When I got closer to the coast there was a path diversion which meant a bit longer to go and the short cut to the campsite wasn’t an option because of wild bird conservation. As I trudged up the footpath from the sea to the campsite once again I had nothing left.

  • Kirk Yetholm to Wooler

    Kirk Yetholm to Wooler

    Day 3 – St Cuthberts Way

    It’s amazing what a good nights sleep will do. I felt much better though I was beginning to think that yesterday’s struggles might be more than the heat and the weight of my backpack. It was thick fog when I woke up but as my Met Office App assured me it would burn off quickly I thought I would take my time and not push to leave at my normal 6.30am. I had a liesurely breakfast then set off even though the fog was still lingering. I knew today was a shorter walk than yesterday.

    I was climbing into the fog and was wondering how much of the Cheviot Hills I would see. I didn’t feel too bad though and was confident I could do this.

    I was climbing steadily not being able to see very far – though I could see the path fine until I got to the border with England. I wouldn’t have noticed it was the border if I hadn’t noticed a waymaker on a post mentioning Public Rights of Way. I am sure it’s just the way the hills are but it seemed strange that Scotland was still shrouded in mist but England was basking in sunshine; for today at least!

    As I looked over the hills I thought it was so good that so far every day had very different scenery. Apart from a brief Nordic walk the previous January this was my first experience walking in the cheviots. Just after the border I met a large group of walkers coming in the opposite direction – they were on a day walk from Tyneside which reminded me how close to home I actually was, and that it was the weekend. I had lost track of the days of the week since it wasn’t really important.

    As I walked into Hethpool I stopped and chatted to a couple walking again in the opposite direction to me. They were out for a day hike but were happy to share stories of other longer walks they had been on. Despite walking on my own I met several interesting people on the way. I stopped for some lunch just after Hethpool in some shade – accompanied by loads of flies sadly.

    I was trying to pace myself better than yesterday afternoon so stopped more often. It was getting hotter so I made the most of any shade I could. I was still a bit concerned about my lack of energy though and the beginnings of a cough.

    I managed the climb past Yeavering Bell and was trying to convince myself that it would be easier from now on and that I was almost at Wooler. Except that I never seemed to get there for ages at least. One ridge led on to another.

    I did finally start the decent towards Wooler through some welcome woodland with it’s shade. I decided once I got to the car park and picnic spot at the bottom to walk into the town via the road as there were signs showing a diversion from the official route. I wasn’t feeling so good by this point and was desperate to get to the campsite.

    As I was walking on the road I was thinking I could call at a pharmacy and get a lateral flow test. I hadn’t packed any since it said they they shouldn’t be stored above 30C and I knew that my backpack would be hotter than that. However I was too late getting into town so the only shop that seemed to be open was the Co-op. On that road I fantasized about Lucozade for some reason and was grateful they Co-op stocked it. I was able to have a short rest on a bench and summon up the strength to walk to the campsite.

  • Lilliardsedge to Kirk Yetholm

    Lilliardsedge to Kirk Yetholm

    Day Two – St Cuthberts Way

    The day dawned fine with mist quickly disappearing and leaving only dew soaked grass in the early sunshine. I wanted to be up and away at six thirty as I knew I had one of my longest days today. This was the first full day of walking with a fully loaded backpack. Soon the tent and everything else was packed away and I set off to back track a short distance to rejoin Dere Street.

    I was back at the trail after wading through waist high rough and very wet grass to the site of Lilliards Grave.

    I was thinking that St Cuthbert might well have travelled on this section of the trail as Dere Street seemed to have been a recognised route well into the medieval times. There were views on both sides and looking to the right I sought out Rubers Law in the distance. I remember one summer when I was unemployed stopping a couple of nights with my Dad’s army friend in Bonchester Bridge and climbing that hill on his recommendation. A return visit another time maybe.

    I felt fine along this stretch of the trail, though it was downhill at this stage. As I approached the River Teviot it was back into woodland around the Monteviot House estate. To get across the river the trail has to go the long way round. It reminded me of other walks I had been on where the private landowners exclude the public from their land.

    I was then faced with the footbridge across the River Teviot. It was a well constructed bridge but perhaps because I felt unbalanced with a heavy backpack on I found crossing it really scary. I do suffer from vertigo much more as I get older but this was quite intense.

    I walked along the vanks of the Teviot for a while and then over the Jedfoot Bridge before rejoining Dere Street. This seemed a bit mor like a Roman Road – even if it’s condition I am sure owed more to it being a farm track too.

    The next part of the walk was a delightful mix of woodland, pasture and arable fields.

    It was in this section of the walk that I began to struggle. It was getting hotter and hotter and the ups and downs were getting steeper. There was a lovely valley, a steep track through woodland then a path up through the field opposite. I was able to exchange greetings with a family on this section but the walk up the steep hill was a killer. After reaching the farm at the end of the field I was faced with a stretch of road going directly up to the brow of the hill. It was a struggle I would walk and then stop walk and then stop. I got there but I felt the weight of my load in contrast to the family I met who just had day packs and were staying in hotels and B&Bs. There was a little bit of respite as the gradients didn’t seem so bad but it was getting hotter.

    I did feel at this point I was running out of energy, snacks and electrolyte tablets in my water didn’t seem to make much impact. I was focussed on getting to my rest stop at Morbattle before going on to my overnight stay at Kirk Yetholm Hostel. I did distract myself though by looking at the fields around with the farmers gathering the straw and musing how different it would have been for my ancestors working the land in this area. My family history research had shown that my 2x and 3x Grandfathers were from this area and were agricultural labourers.

    Sadly I was at this point my energy levels had dropped really low and the approach to Morebattle was mainly roadwalking with little shade. I got there and found the village store which had some seating at the back and got something to eat and drink. I had some serious thinking to do, I knew the next section was really steep but had some of the best views but I wasn’t sure I could make it. I had a booking at the hostel and I knew I had to get to Holy Island because that was the real purpose of my walk. In the end after much agonizing I decided to catch the bus. I had a while to wait so sat on a bench and watched other walkers pass me by. It was difficult not to feel something of a failure because I wasn’t going to walk all the way.

    Once I checked in to the hostel and chatted to the volunteer wardens, had a shower and something to eat I did feel a whole lot better. In my heart I knew I wasn’t there just for the walk but this was my pilgrimage in honour of St Cuthbert. Getting there was more important than how I got there.

  • Melrose to Lilliardsedge

    Melrose to Lilliardsedge

    Day One on St Cuthberts Way.

    I got the first bus to Melrose from the campsite with the intention to leave Melrose at 6.30. I like an early start, the sun was shining and I was excited. This was the longest walk I had attempted but thankfully I was walking back to my campsite and had left most of the contents of my backpack there.

    After a pleasant bus journey on an almost empty bus I got off in the Town Centre. Of course nothing was open at that time of the morning so after taking a few photos at the Abbey I set off to find the steep climb which I knew awaited me.

    The route up over the Eildon Hills starts using an almost hidden passage beside some bins before a long flight of wooden steps. I stopped to get my poles sorted because I knew there was no way I could do this day without them. I was right!

    Looking Down

    I stopped several times on the way up to look at the views. I would like to say they took my breath away but that was probably just as much the effort of climbing the hill. Taking photos is always a good excuse to rest.

    It was with a great sense of relief I made it to the top, not to the top of highest of the three hills thankfully. The trail crosses between the two highest peaks. I can remember thinking that St Cuthbert didn’t come this way if he was travelling somewhere unless he wanted to take in the views. They were worth every bit of the the climb though.

    The other side

    Then it was downhill through beautiful woodland and lovely wooded valleys towards the River Tweed. I met some local walkers at the bottom who stopped for a chat as we negotiated a gate. As I walked on aIongside the Bowden Burn it was almost completely dry

    Just before I got to Newtown St Boswells it was great to look back and be so suprised to see the Eildon Hills in the distance and think – I’ve just been there.

    It was just a short walk through the town and then downhill through woodland to the River Tweed. It was time for a break and I came across a handy seat with a view do die for – well I think so anyway. I was able to take my boots off and rest and have a snack.

    There seemed to be a lot of minor ups and downs along the river but it was cool under the trees and there was the ever present sound of the river. My second conversation of the day was a man from Sunderland walking his dog. To be fair he had moved up to the local town.

    I stopped for a more extended break at a cafe in St Boswells then it was back down to the river again skirting the edge of a golf course then through some pastures thankfully without cows.

    I passed the Mertoun Bridge which made me think of my Great Grandfather who was born in the Parish of Mertoun. This was the first of several times when I wished I had more time to wander around and visit places associated with my ancestors but on this occasion I was a man with a mission.

    I passed Maxton Church but again did not stop. My next waypoint was joining Dere Street after a stretch of road walking.

    Dere Street was a section of the road built by the Romans. I had pictured in my head roman roads wide enough for carts and for soldiers to march six abrest. Sadly over the intevening years it has degenerated into a rough footpath with loads of tree roots to trip the unwary. Nevertheless it made for another change of pace and scenery.

    This was the last section too before I could branch off the trail to return to my campsite. I couldn’t wait. I was hot and at the limit of my strength. The last couple of kilometres are always the worst. I remember grabbing an ice cream and coke at the camp shop and then I was flat out beside my tent for a while.

  • Green Carts Farm to Winshields then Home

    Green Carts Farm to Winshields then Home

    Green Carts Farm to WInshields then Home

    Yesterday afternoon was a low point but its wonderful what a good nights sleep and some blister plasters will do. I woke up this morning ready and raring to go. I missed sunrise itself but was treated to a wonderful display as the rising sun came out from behind the clouds. It was an awesome view across the North Tyne Valley.

    I managed my ‘normal’ 6.30 start and retraced my steps to re-join Hadrian’s Wall trail. Today there was more wall to see and some of most spectacular views of the trip. More uphill than downhill though I remember very well from my walk with Christopher earlier this year they are a lot of steep climbs and descents.

    Looking back soon after the start of Day 10
    The ditch at Limestone Corner

    This first part of the day was once again walking beside the Military Road on one side or the other through pasture land. The views on every side were wide and expansive. I was really appreciating the opportunity to enjoy the landscape.

    The next point of interest was Carrawburgh Fort. Here even the lumps and bumps were obscured by tall grass. Thankfully there was a narrow mown path through the site to the well preserved Mithraic Temple.

    Mithraic Temple at Carrawburgh

    A lot much gentle up and downs followed. The ground was quite rough although mostly grass, I was thankful to be walking in dry weather as some sections looked like they could be very boggy.

    So the road or in this case the trail goes ever on in the photo below you can just make out the hills on the horizon.

    I then started on the climb up to Sewingshields the views just got better and better. This section of the wall was all completely new to me.

    Looking towards the start of Sewingshields
    Then looking back from the trees
    The view from Sewingshields
    Looking back from a bit further on

    I was enjoying this walk so much, apart from the sore feet. I know people who think that any view which aren’t like the Lake District Fells or the Scottish Highlands aren’t worth looking at but I just love all kinds of countryside from the micro-pockets where I live to these seeping vistas

    Then I turned a corner and there in the distance was Housesteads Fort one of my important stops of the day.

    It’s not obvious but Housesteads is in the distance

    Housesteads is one of the most visited bits of Hadrian’s Wall and getting there was almost a return to normal society. I had not been meeting many walkers and others except around the major sites like Chesters yesterday and Housesteads today. As it happens and I just make this observation the people who most often stopped to chat on the way were overseas visitors. Whilst I enjoy solo walking I do always greet those I make eye contact with and if there is an opportunity for a short conversation I do enjoy that.

    At Housesteads I used my English Heritage Membership for free entrance and my discount for drink, snacks and souvenir guidebook. It was an nice place for a sit – the staff were kind enough to provide a space for my backpack whilst I wandered around. I am appreciating the fact that Romans built all their forts to a very standard plan so the bits of wall and foundations remaining make more sense.

    The next section of walk was the section that I had walked with Christopher earlier this year so it had a certain sense of familiarity. It was also the busiest section of my walk. In one place there were three school parties.

    Looking towards Crag Lough

    It was the afternoon and I had been walking since 6.30 so I took the decision to walk along the Military Way for this section. This runs just to the south of the wall and tends to miss out the really steep up and downs at the edge of the crags. I had done those before!

    As I passed Sycamore Gap (the famous tree) it really felt like so many people had a better connection to a tree from a film than the wall which it was growing on. I make no judgement just the observation.

    Like the day before I was beginning to flag a bit so pressed on. I soon reached Peel Gap where Christopher and I had started our walk.

    Peel Gap

    I decided to walk along the wall a bit further then take the path down to my camp site – it took me to Winshield Crags which when I got there turned out to be the highest point on the wall and half way across the country. I couldn’t have walked much further today and decided I would leave my final walking section for another time.

    Looking back from WInshields

    There was a precipitous footpath leading down from the wall to the camp site. I had certainly been so thankful for my walking poles which had been so helpful getting me up and in this case down hills.

    Sheltering from the wind
    The camp site looking where I walked

    It was a great camp site and was only a short walk to the pub. So after getting set up and showered and changed – I felt I deserved a treat to end my epic journey. So Burger and Chips it was followed by Sticky Toffee pudding and two pints of Ale Caesar. I had to keep the Roman theme going.

    It was another good night. When I woke up the next morning I had a while to wait for my bus and the forecast was for rain by 7.30. I packed everything up then went up the the farm where they have a very nice room with table and chairs and a kitchen. While it was raining I was having a cup of tea and reading.

    It was soon time to go home so with the aid of my trusty bus pass I got the bus to Hexham, then the bus to the Metrocentre, then the bus home. I was home by lunchtime. I was so thankful I had done this after so much thinking. Reflections to follow ……….

  • East Wallhouses to Green Carts Farm

    East Wallhouses to Green Carts Farm

    Waking up and looking out of the tent though it sounds a bit over the top filled me with joy. A vista of fields and sunshine put me in a good mood for the day. I am an early riser so everything was quiet and I couldn’t hear anyone else awake. I successfully used my Trangia cooking set to make a cup of tea and some porridge – this doesn’t sound significant but this was the first time it had been used in earnest. Everything sorted and packed away I was ready to set out on the trail just after 6.30am.

    The first part of today’s walk was alongside the Ditch. I passed some rather pleasant bits even though I was always conscious of the traffic thundering past.

    Crossing the Ditch just past East Wallhouses

    This was the second day of discovering how much I’d missed when driving along here. I have always been aware of the Military Road being built over Hadrian’s Wall but hadn’t realised that so much of the associated ditch and Vallum were still so visible and in my eyes at least so impressive.

    It had it’s moments and gradually the views starting opening out.

    Looking towards Down Hill

    I stopped at the top of this hill where there was a handy rock to sit on. The views from here were tremendous and as it happens there were some very impressive Vallum earthworks too. I don’t think I was missing the absence of wall. After that it was downhill (sorry) to my first fort of the day. This was Halton Chesters and were some more lumps an bumps and not much else. Uphill next – on reflection uphill and downhill was one of the themes of this trip. Then onwards to the Errington Café which wasn’t open but had a handy bench for me to sit in the sun and have a break. One of the penalties of starting out so soon in the morning is that I miss out on early morning refreshments apart from the water I carry. On reflection I could have made myself a cup of tea but the trail was calling.

    Some pleasant walking followed in the sunshine through pasture, fields and some lovely woodland stretches. At one point in the woods I came across an abundance of bilberries – if only I wasn’t so focused I could have been foraging.

    A View

    As I approached the North Tyne Valley – it was time for a short diversion away from the Romans to the Anglo Saxons. Just off the trail is St Oswald’s Church at Heavenfield. It was a lovely quiet place commemorating the victory of King Oswald over the pagans in 633 or 634. I had a few moments of reflection and reminded myself of my pilgrim calling. (A blog post to come!)

    From here on bits of wall start suddenly appearing firstly here at Planetrees halfway down the hill into the valley

    Wall at Planetrees

    The next bit of wall would have been a lot closer if it hadn’t been for the substantial detour around someone’s property. It was a case of walking along a country lane almost to the village of Wall then back towards Chollerford. Another short detour to see a bit of wall with the remains of a turret.

    Brunton Turret

    It was a day of detours. No sooner had I finished one then I was on to the next. Trying to be a wall completist as far as this project goes I wanted to follow the line of the wall as much as possible. This meant a walk from Chollerford Bridge back along the river in the direction I has just walked to visit the Roman bridge abutment. Whilst tempted to sit in the shade beside the riverbank my second Fort of the day was beckoning from the opposite bank.

    Bridge Abutment attached to a bit of wall

    So after retracing my steps to the bridge and then crossing it – I ended up at one of my goals for today. Last year I had on impulse joined English Heritage and decided now was a good time to start getting some benefit.

    I really enjoyed my visit to Chesters Fort helped I’m sure by the kind staff who offered a space to park my backpack whilst I wandered around and the discounted refreshments at the café. I had been here before many years ago but never had the time to take it in. I was glad I had visited Segundunum at Wallsend as this gave me more of an understanding of the scale and plan of a Roman Cavalry Fort.

    The trail was calling again. I was becoming more and more conscious of my feet. I had a couple of blisters which were manageable but after walking for 6 hours by now they were getting sore. Sadly after descending into the beautiful river valley it follows that there is an uphill climb. I was really feeling my age as I walked up the road from Chesters. I know I didn’t have far to go to the campsite but it felt further and further away the more I struggled up the hill.

    There was one more bit of wall to see before heading towards my stop for the night.

    Black Carts

    I don’t think I quite appreciated the impressiveness of this bit of wall and turret as I think I was feeling rather overwhelmed by the climb out of the valley, my sore feet and general weariness. It was only a short walk from here to my camping spot for the night at Green Carts Farm

    I was so glad when I could sit down, before pitching my tent beside a handy picnic bench. There weren’t many people camping here so it was nice and quiet. I was seriously considering whether I had done enough and whether I should cut my trip short and go home the following day. Once I’d had a lovely hot shower and cooked myself some tea I did feel a bit better. I would make a decision in the morning.

  • Heddon-on-the-Wall to East Wallhouses

    Heddon-on-the-Wall to East Wallhouses

    The plan in my head was to walk for 4 days and camp for 3 nights along Hadrian’s Wall Trail but as I sat having breakfast on the morning of Tuesday 12th July 2022 I was still procrastinating. Maybe I should put this off until next week, after all I wasn’t ready. I had been thinking about camping for many months and had been collecting bits of gear and watching too many YouTube videos but there were so may things to prepare. I was also very conscious that I needed to test me and my kit before I embarked on my pilgrimage from Melrose to Lindisfarne in just under a month’s time.

    I checked the weather forecast, saw the warnings about the heatwave and decided today was the day. A flurry of activity followed, including a trip to the shops for last minute food and snacks. I had worked out that to get to my first campsite I would need to get the bus from Newcastle to Heddon-on-the-Wall about 1.15pm so I didn’t have time for much else beyond gathering everything and shoving it into my backpack as fast as possible. I couldn’t fit it all in so I ended up tying the tent on to the top of my bag which wasn’t ideal. So despite my lack of preparation off I went with what felt like a ton weight on my back. I had not been backpacking/camping for years and even though I am used to walking it’s just with a light day pack. Sitting on the bus in the midst of the excitement and anticipation I thought to myself – what on earth am I doing? I’m a 67 year old man who has not led a life of fitness and exercise with some crazy ideas.

    I stepped off the bus opposite the Three Tuns, settled my pack on my back and set off, no time to stop. This first section was beside a stretch of road which I had driven along many times. I was soon to discover with the aid of my trusty guide book that I had missed so much. This is a recurrent theme as I have been walking more, is this sense of discovery. I’ve missed so much over the years by not having or taking the time to look.

    Hadrian’s Wall Trail – Leaving Heddon-on-the-Wall

    Today’s walk could have been entitled Hadrian’s Ditch Trail since the curtain wall itself on this section was long gone. The photos don’t give the ditch justice but 1900 years of wear and tear do make a difference. You can see it in the photo above. Over the next 3 days I did come to appreciate the scale of the infrastructure which the Romans constructed. A massive defensive ditch in front of the wall, a ‘berm’, a curtain wall, a road (not to be confused with the one you can see) then another ditch system, the Vallum.

    The first walkers I see are three ladies walking in the opposite direction to me. I wasn’t able to provide a personal recommendation for the Three Tuns pub but pointed them in the right direction as they wished me well. It was good to feel part of a ‘community’ even though I was walking alone.

    So many accounts I had read complained about the trail sticking to the Military Road (B6318). My recent walking has been typically around and through the Tyneside Conurbation so I have become used to walking with background traffic noise. I soon left the road itself though and followed the waymarked trails through the fields, albeit beside the road.

    Somewhere around invisible Milecastle 13

    It was a pleasant walk, I wasn’t yet feeling the full effects of the backpack. I was however grateful that there weren’t any people around to see me climbing over various stiles. I often felt top heavy and was very conscious of not wanting to do my back in so graceful I was not. It wasn’t long before I came to today’s Fort at Rudchester. There were lots of really interesting lumps and bumps and an information board.

    Rudchester Fort + Sheep

    So it was then onward and upward then downward but mostly upward albeit on fairly gentle slopes. The views were great looking over the Tyne Valley, take my word for it my photos didn’t capture the beauty. I then came to the first example of where a landowner had not given permission for the Trail to go through their property and therefore there was a diversion. It was ok I suppose but I did start reminding myself about the principles of a right to roam!

    I was now getting a bit weary – I had been walking for nearly two hours I think and I was conscious my destination was not too far ahead. I had by this time following the trail crossed the Military Road and was now walking in the ditch so views were somewhat diminished. I passed a couple of reservoirs and continued now on the north side of the ditch. I was thankful for my walking poles as they give me that extra push to get up the next hill.

    So when I got to today’s goal I was happy to stop. I was camping in the field behind the Robin Hood Inn at East Wallhouses. They offer a ‘Wild Camping’ experience, ie a field, a water tap and use of the pub toilets. This was my first night in a tent for a long time and I was a little bit anxious . I had only out the tent up once on my friends lawn and when I got to the field there were three others just finishing putting their tents up, the last thing I wanted was an audience! Anyway I managed without embarrassment and then was ready for the next part of my wild camping experience – a pub meal and a couple of pints of Roman themed ale. For those more into ale than me, (I’m a lightweight), it was Gallia from the Twice Brewed Inn.

    My Tent
    The Camping Field

    I returned from my meal – did some reading then eventually went to sleep. The end of a really good day.

  • Newcastle to Heddon

    Newcastle to Heddon

    Today is part of my attempt to be completist walking along the line of the wall and also completing Hadrian’s Wall Trail. Today was to tick of the section of the trail from Newcastle to Heddon-on-the- Wall. It was a lovely day and I was looking forward to a walk along the northern banks of the River Tyne. There were more cyclists than walkers on this initial stretch.

    Looking ahead
    A bit further on

    I was really enjoying this bit of the walk. There were no hills and there was plenty of good views to keep my interest.

    It was along this section that I had my two ‘social interactions’ of the day. First were a lovely German couple who were cycling on there last day before returning on the ferry via Amsterdam. I was able, thanks to their good English to explain about Dunston Staithes. A bit further on I had a chat with a man about his plans to walk St Cuthbert’s Way though he did admit to walking but not quite finishing the Cleveland Way.

    Sadly when I got past Elswick the trail leaves the riverbank to avoid the factories and then heads though some typical mixed scrubland which is essentially a post industrial landscape.

    Heading towards Scotswood

    It was then a right turn at Scotswood to follow paths through parkland and a footbridge over the busy Western Bypass. It was then downhill the other side and then along a reclaimed waggon way through Lemington and Newburn. I had hoped to have a lunch break once I got back to the river but this section albeit woodland on either side seemed to go on for ever so I took advantage of a handy bench.

    After my rest I set off again and ended up at the Riverside Park. It was a lovely place with the added attraction of a café with some cold drinks.

    Riverside park looking West

    This was also the site of the Battle of Newburn Ford in 1640. I was aware of a battle there but discovered lots of detail from the information boards surrounding a memorial.

    Once I was through the park the path then heads inland and is routed along through fields. By this stage in the day I was got and getting tired and my feet were sore. Sadly Heddon, my destination for today is at the top of a hill which I could see in front of me.

    The final section was through a golf course. I don’t think I have ever seen so many Private Property signs in one place which all seemed to carry warnings about deviating from the path. It seemed like a long steep climb to Heddon village which probably wasn’t that bad.

    I had originally thought I might have a look round the village and the church but my energy had run out and I was conscious that there was a bus due to take me back into Newcastle so it remains something for another day.

    Heddon

    I was glad I had done this section with just a day pack – thinking back doing the whole section as far as East Wallhouses with my tent and everything which was my original plan would have been a bit of a struggle.

  • Waljar one – Jarrow to Wallsend

    Waljar one – Jarrow to Wallsend

    Date Walked – Thursday 23rd June 2022

    Route Description

    Whilst this was not strictly walking along the line of Hadrian’s Wall this was my walk underneath the River Tyne to get to Segundunum, Wallened Fort.

    I started at Jarrow Metro Station and it was a short walk through the town centre to the river.

    There’s something about rivers, at least for me I love them, despite the industry surrounding me. I was walking underneath the river this time though.

    I decided to walk down the (non-working) escalator which was ok aprt from my vertigo which seems to be getting worse the older I get.

    The Tunnel itself didn’t seem half as long as I was expecting.

    I did take the lift on the other side, I’m not that enthisiastic. Then I was out into the sunshine again. There was some road walking footpaths and trails through a mainly industrial and post industrial landscape. There were some attractive views on the way, at least I think so.

    I then joined Hadrian’s Cycleway for the final stretch into the Town Centre. Who knew Hadrian was a cyclist?

    I ended this section of toady’s walk at Segundunum Roman Fort rather than the less inspiring Metro Station. I did look back over the Tyne once more and took the photo of what was Swan Hunter’s Shipyard for my brother-in-law who worked there.

  • Gatspr One – Gateshead to Springwell

    Gatspr One – Gateshead to Springwell

    Route Details

    I walked and reviewed this route in full on January 1st 2022 though parts of this route now form part of my walks to the shops.

    The route begins at Gateshead Interchange and is a walk up High West Street to the roundabout under the flyover where there is something of a skatepark. The there is a steady climb up Old Durham Road before branching off along Carr Hill Road

    Then along to Windy Nook and turn towards Windy Nook Nature Park and countryside.

    One of the joys about Slow Ways being walking routes between towns is that you can rarely escape the urban and industrial. However Once in the nature park then there is countryside and views.

    From Windy Nook to Whitehills Nature Park then along footpaths which have now been cleared and upgraded.

    Across the road then past fields towards Springwell and remains of industry

    As you approach Springwell there are more countryside and views

    Then you arrive at Springwell with a real sense of achievment. It wasnt a long walk but I hoped the start of many. It was an auspiscious start to the year

  • North Shields to Seaton Sluice

    North Shields to Seaton Sluice

    Date Walked Saturday 14th August 2021

    Route Description – Tyne and Wear Heritage Way Section 1

    Before I attempted my next Nordic Walk I wanted to test myself to see if I could walk the distances required. Eight miles was a distance I hadn’t walked since having surgery and my confidence was low. This was also to prove it was practical for me to use public transport to do a liner walk. I picked this walk largely because there were no hills. I am pleased to say that it was a great day and successful on many levels.

    I timed my start at North Shields Ferry Terminal to coincide with the opening time of Tynemouth Priory and Castle. I wanted too to make use of the English Heritage Membership I had purchased on impulse during my visit to Holy Island with Christopher. So a Metro journey later I found myself at the start ready for the challenge.

    The next section is a walk along the river past the Fish Quay to Tynemouth. The first thing that struck me was that this was a section of the England Coast Path which then prompted me to think that that might me a challenge to attempt! I passed several gated husing dvelopments which made me think about the state of society which sees these as a good thing.

    I hadn’t walked along the Fish Quay in years so it was intersting to see the restaurants and bars opposite the Quay itself. I was pleased to see open fish shops with plenty of customers.

    I really enjoyed the section between the Fish Quay and Tynemouth it was new to me and the brightening weather, morning freshness, once I had escaped the fish, and the peace and quiet meant for a pleasant walk. I passed the remains of Clifford’s Fort and could just make out the Black Middens Reef. There were also occasional artworks like this memorial sculpture below.

    I was soon at Tynemouth and I had a look at Collingwood’s Monument before going to visit the Castle and Priory.

    After a good look around the Castle and Priory and an opportunity for a rest it was time to continue walking.

    This stretch from Tynemouth to Whitley Bay is familiar and I couldn’t help remembering the afternoon I spent with Brenda walking from Tynemouth to Cullercoats and back.

    King Edwards Bay
    Long Sands
    Cullercoats Harbour

    It was a Saturday in August and the sun was shining so there were plenty of people around and I was aware of the constant traffic but it was good walking – including the obligatory fresh sea breeze.

    I was pleased to see and appreciate the improvements made to the Promenade and Spanish City at Whitley Bay. As always when I am here I think about what it must have been like when my Mum got the train here on a Sunday School trip from Bellingam.

    Spanish City
    Whitley Sands

    It was after stopping and having my sandwich on a bench by the sea I had a detour to visit a friend who lives nearby. What’s another few kilometers? It was then back to the beach to continue my walk. I passed the landmark of St Mary’s Lighthouse before the last clifftop stratch to my destination at Seaton Sluice.

    I was flagging a bit by the time I got to the end. I regretted just wearing trainers with a thin sole. I passed a cafe which was just closing and got some coffee and cake to celebrate though. After a short wander round the village I decided I would have some fish and chips fo my tea. Awesome fish and chips but probably too big a portion after coffee and cake!

    All in all though a great day and a beautiful walk.

  • Nordic Walking

    Nordic Walking

    Date Walked Saturday 29th May 2021

    It was a fateful day in May 2021 when I read an article in The Guardian which gave an account of a Nordic Walking break. It sparked my interest and I followed links via that article and arrived at Strolls with Poles. Part of the enquiry email I sent sums it up.

    I am interested in learning and participating in some walks.   This looks like just the kind of thing I am looking for in the coming months and longer I hope.  I am just about to retire – (only six weeks to go!) My job is all about sitting down at a computer but I do love the outdoors and walking in the countryside is what I want to get back to.  I have been struggling over the past few months with complications of gallstones which has left me even more unfit than I was anyway.

    I was very unsure about walking with a group – my general health and fitness had deteriorated over several months and a couple of spells in hospital. I was also anxious about being part of a group event since I had been a semi recluse during Covid. Julie the walk leader assured me I would be fine and I signed up for my very first walk on the Northumberland Coast from Low Newton to Dunstanburgh. I reasoned this was quite short with no substantial hills so I thought I could manage

    It was a lovely sunny day as I drove up and as I parked up and met Julie and Martin the leaders and other members of the group my anxieties were replaced by excitement. The only downside was the thick fog rolling in off the sea.

    Walking with Dunstanburgh Castle in the background

    The fog didn’t really diminish the enjoyment of the walk. On the way I got some excellent tuition in the correct Nordic Walking technique and chatted to others in the group as we went along. In terms of scenery. I was familiar with Dunstanburgh to Craster having visited a few times so could picture what I was passing even though I couldn’t see much!

    I was shattered by the time I got back to the car and was so stiff. Nordic Walking works the shoulders and upper body as well as the legs so I really felt like I had done a real workout.

    I booked up for my next walk but then my long awaited hospital surgery intervened so it would be a further couple of months before I got out again

    On the 3rd January 2022 I wrote this testimonial……..

    I have enjoyed every minute

    I have discovered areas of the countryside I have never before visited, walking in the company of some great people in sunshine, rain, wind and fog and yes I have enjoyed every minute!
    I was a bit apprehensive when I signed up for my first walk – I wasn’t very sure at all and had lots of questions.
    Was I going to be fit enough? Would I hold everyone back? I surprised myself as to what I can do – walking and especially going up hills has proved easier with poles. Despite health issues limiting how often I could get out walking – I found the walks ideal with enough to challenge me but plenty of opportunities to stop and admire the view!
    Would I be the odd one out faced with a clique of people who were already friends? From the very first moment I felt included – just as much a part of the group as if I had been going for years. It’s very relaxed and you can chat as much or as little as you want
    How would I manage with the poles? Julie’s style of teaching is always encouraging and helpful. I have now done a basic instruction course but that was only after two walks – and I was pleasantly surprised how much I had picked up on my two walks I had already done. If I’m out walking now without poles – I miss them!

    Testimonials – Strolls With Poles – Nordic Walking
  • Slow Ways – How I began

    Slow Ways – How I began

    Back in those lockdown days in 2020 – still ‘working’ but dreaming of what I would do when I retire I remember reading an article in the Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2020/jun/13/how-the-slow-ways-network-could-change-walking-in-britain I had already decided that walking was going to be a big part of my retirement and this idea really intrigued me. Dan Raven-Ellison summed it up so well. “Walking is important for so many reasons. There’s a climate, ecological, health and financial emergency, and walking can help reduce personal emissions, save money and bring joy. Life has slowed down in lockdown. Now people are reconnecting with their surroundings and discovering new things about the country. I hope Slow Ways will help them to continue to do this.” I signed up for their newsletter.

    So 2020 came and went with lockdowns and poor health which relegated walking to short trips to the shop or the GP or the hospital. Slow Ways launched their website in 2021 which renewed my interest. https://beta.slowways.org/ I was pleased to see that one of the routes passed the end of my street. As it happens the section from home to Gateshead town centre is my well walked route to the shops and onward to Newcastle so it was very familiar. What I hadn’t ever walked was the section from home to Springwell though the section to Windy Nook was familiar too as it is where my local Tesco Extra is and the Windy Nook Nature Park.

    I think it was May 2021 when I finally got round to walking part of a route. It was the one which passed the end of my street. Each route has a title and this one is GatSpr because it goes from Gateshead to Springwell. It was one afternoon I had some time before a medical appointment so I set off to walk to Springwell Village. I was trying to follow the downloaded route on my OS App but I kind of strayed from the path crossing the Nature Park – I blame a building site across the path of the route. As it was my first time I was trying to follow it exactly – I’m a bit more relaxed now.

    I crossed the road into what I now know is Whitehills Nature Park and crossed an area of grassland with indistinct paths. I then came to a designated footpath which I dubbed ‘Fly Tipping Central’ It was overgrown and littered with all kinds of rubbish. This section wasn’t in anyway a pleasant walk. My spare time was running short so I never got as far as my destination and headed home.

    This experience kind of put me off the project and it got put on the back burner.