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Day 1 of the Via di Francesco.

How do you begin a journey? When you have the initial idea, when you begin preparations, when you start travelling or perhaps when you actually start walking?

I chose to begin at my home church, St Alban’s, Windy Nook. It was great to be able to share something of how I was led to this journey and how spiritually significant it feels. It proved to be a very emotional morning. There was a real sense that home is not just the house I live in but the community I am part of.

The prayer of St Francis before the cross in the back of the Travelling Light Booklet sums up my hopes for this pilgrimage.

Most high, glorious God,
Enlighten the darkness of my heart
Give me true faith.
Give me certain hope.
Give me perfect Charity.
Give me Lord the sense and knowledge,
that I may carry out
Your holy and true command.

I hope it will feel like a holiday though, despite the physical challenge of over twelve thousand two hundred metres of ascent over the eighteen days of walking. That’s an awful lot of up and down.

Day 2 on the Via di Francesco

The day began with final, final packing making sure I had everything I needed packed away in my trusty backpack. Of course there is always something like the realisation that I had left my glasses at church but that was ok – I have another pair.

I walked to the Newcastle Central Station and checked the departure board to find my first train had been cancelled. I checked and it was fine for me to get the one leaving four minutes earlier.

On to Darlington then and the bus replacement service I already knew about then the next train to London. From Kings Cross just a tube journey to Vauxhall and then another train.

I finally got to Christopher and Lucy’s and just enjoyed being amongst family. Jonathan came across for the evening which made it a great relaxing evening.

All in all today was a day of calm after the emotional storm of yesterday. The opening words of Common Worship resonated strongly.
The night has passed and the day lies open before us.

It was good to be finally on the move and despite unplanned events I calmed my mind by thinking that I only had one thing to do today which was to get to Christopher and Lucy’s. Worries about tomorrow were not necessary.

Day 3 on the Via di Francesco

It wasn’t the best night’s sleep, the bed was comfortable but my brain was far too active. In the end I was up by 04:30. My first train wasn’t until 05:52 so I had time for Morning Prayer and my Community Obedience. It reminded me of days on the Camino de Santiago when I payed and watched the dawn break.

I reminded myself of yesterdays thought about not being anxious about things and also the message from my Novice Guardian “Yes one step at a time dear Philip”.

It was then an overground train and an underground train before checking in for my Eurostar journey. It was ok so far this was familiar territory things I had done before.

Today’s uncertainty began at the EU Check. The border police person who never spoke spent ages trying to read my passport on his machine, even checking in another booth before silently beckoning me through. Will I have problems getting back I thought.

The day felt like a day of moving from the familiar to the unfamiliar. I was confused about where to get the Metro from Paris Gare du Nord to Paris Gare de Lyon. When I got there there didn’t seem enough time to find the next train though in hindsight there was plenty.

Then began a long but beautiful journey through the French Countryside. Flat landscapes changing to rolling hills and then to spectacular mountain views. I definitely felt I was now outside of my comfort zone of the familiar.

Sunshine and occasional showers changed as we exited the mountains into Italy. Everything seemed grey. I was struggling to stay awake but couldn’t sleep in case I missed my next connection. As night fell it was difficult to feel enthusiasm.

It was nighttime when I got to Florence and my brain had almost shut down. I managed to find my hostel and check in. I was happy with my bed and lay for a while before falling asleep.

In hindsight London to Florence in a day was a bit stressful especially with one of the journeys having a twenty-five minute delay. I think the stress was just about the tiredness though.

I had arrived and knew that the next day I had plenty of time to relax and prepare for my walk.

Day 4 on the Via di Francesco

Today was a day to pause, prepare and relax. As I lay waking up I decided that all I ‘had’ to do that day was to go to the Basilica de Santa Croce, pray and get my credential stamped. The rest of the day was free.

It was interesting seeing the place where I was staying in the light of day. Last night by the time I arrived I just headed straight to bed. The others in my dormitory of four were already in bed so I didn’t want to put the light on. It was formerly a religous house, part of which has been repurposed for a secular hostel. There were some frescos still visible in places.

I set out about eight o’clock to have a wander around. I headed to the river to get my bearings and then set off to sightsee. There was a bit of light rain so wasn’t perefect but good nevertheless. It seems most tourists are not out and about so early so it was quite quiet. I checked out the Ponte Vecchio, walked past the Uffizi and eventually ended up at Santa Croce just as it was opening.

My experience praying here was quite mixed. I explained what I wanted and then went to a grumpy attendant who stamped my credential (upside down), and then radioed for another attendant who escorted me into the space reserved for prayer. There was very strict segregation, perhaps it was just me but they seemed very concerned I shouldn’t see anything I hadn’t paid for.

Thankfully I was able to focus and said Morning Prayer and my Community Obedience then spent time thinking about my pilgrimage. I did feel a bit overwhelmed by what I had taken on and really had to battle for some time to achieve some peace.

I decided to find a supermarket to find some food which I did and then sat in a small sqare in the sunshine having brunch and people watching which is always a favourite occupation.

I then set off to try and be a tourist, though by past experience I thought it unlikely I would be very succesful. It seems that when I am on pilgrimage I am so focussed I can’t concentrate on anything else. Florence is certainly beautiful with awesome architecture. I love the way buildings are decorated and built to show beauty though I suppose it was to demonstrate the power and prestige of the owners too.

By this time the tourists were out in force, so many lines following guides, the biggest queue ever for the Uffizi Gallery and crowds everywhere. I hadn’t booked to visit anywhere. I remember my experience on the Camino de Santiago trying to focus on art appreciation and failing. I did take a picture of one of the replica statues of David but in the end wandered further to escape the crowds.

I did muse about whether it mattered how much was authentic or restored this was when I was looking around the Ponte Vecchio. I also mused about the shops surrounding the centre especially the tourist bits. I find it difficult to see so much wealth, I am glad I am aspiring to a simple life. To be honest the highlight of this wander round Florence was the exquiste and decious gelato. No picture I was too busy enjoying it.

Then it was back to the hostel for a nap. After all this is the mediteranean and I was still really tired. Two hours later I woke up and was able to complete my journal do some Right to Roam admin and then type up my reflections for the previous two days.

To be honest I wasn’t intersted in heading out for the night life of Florence, it was raining and it was just not me. I had a reasonably early night. On balance a day in Florence was more than enough for me every time I looked up river I could see the hills and they were calling me.

One more sleep and then I would start walking.

Day 5 on the Via di Francesco.

I was out of the hostel round about 6 o’clock. I think I just wanted to leave Florence. Nice as it was it wasn’t where I wanted to be, I wanted to be on the trail. I got as far as a bench between the hostel and the river and said Morning Prayer and my Community Obedience. This has become my settled routine. It keeps me focussed on the fact that this is a pilgrimage.

I was itching to start so it was an effort of discipline to do it properly before setting off. But set off I did though – I didn’t have too much to worry about as far as navigation goes, all I had to do was to keep the river on my right and I would be fine.

Much as I was in a hurry to leave Florence was certainly beautiful in the early morning light. It wasn’t in a hurry to let me go though as they were doing a lot of civil engineering works along the river bank which spoilt the effect somewhat.

It took some time before peace and quiet descended having passed several riverside parks. I eventually found my first Way Marker! Only 14.1km to my destination!

It meant I was under no time pressure today so could take it steadily. Just after that signpost I met a group of walkers coming towards me. After exchanging Buongiorno (my Italian stretches to that) they must have noticed my Tau Cross I’m wearing and shouted Assisi! I felt I had arrived somehow. No one had spoken to me in Florence but now I was on the trail it felt so different.

It came time to leave the river for a while and climb into the hills. I passed through a small village and practiced my italian in the local bar. I did end up with what I expected, in this case and esspresso and a croissant. I am loving the italian coffee. As I climbed past olive trees and vines and looked back over the countryside. Every incline and corner presented new vistas to enjoy.

In the midst of all this I had a conviction that I should treat each days walk on it’s own merits and not compare it with other days. I had been tempted to trat today just a preparation for the more difficult days to come. It might indeed be that but I don’t want to miss anything as I walk , I want to be present through the day.

I consciously slowed up and took my time. I passed a Coop store and popped in for some lunch, then sat on a bench beside the river. I rembered to take off my boots and aired my feet, which is somethimng I forget to do.

The final part of the days walk felt more demanding. It wasn’t the terrain, I think it was just the hot sun and my natural desire to have a nap around that time. I departed from the official route for a section but arrived in the town just before 2pm.

I contacted my host at the B&B I was staying at and checked in. It was nice to have my own room and bathroom. I did some hand washing, made a cup of tea and popped to a huge Coop store for something for tea and snacks and lunch for tomorrow. (Bit of a Coop theme developing).

I managed to update my website and then packed ready for the morning. It had been a great first day of walking.

Day 6 on the Via di Francesco

This is the day which had loomed large in my thoughts as I planned my journey and it loomed just as large as I woke up that morning, One of the take aways from my Morning Prayer routine was from the Psalm – “I called to you and you put new strength in my soul” It was interesting how that worked out. I reminded myself as I had done yesterday that all I had to do was to walk – the fact that today was nearly a thousand meters of ascent was just the way it was.

As I left the town I realised that I had missed the older more quaint bit but enjoyed it in passing.

As I left the town it was as steep as I had feared. I determined to take it slowly. I found time to take photos, enjoy the views , notice the wild flowers and even enjoy a whole hedge of rosemary. It helps of course that these activities meant I was catching my breath as I stopped.

I saw a couple walking ahead of me – they looked like pilgrims, I had noticed them as I was leaving Pontasieve. THankfully when I caught up one of them could speak English! We had a short conversation and then parted ways. It’s interesting that even a short conversation takes your mind off the steepness of the trail.

Then there was a section of olive groves and vineyards. They were busy spraying the vines which set me thinking about residues in wine, not too seriously I might add. The views kept coming too.

I came to the village of Diacetto and thought a coffee would be good. I had my espresso and was just topping up my water opposite the bar when the couple I had met earlier arrived. They sat at a table outside the bar so I went across and sat down to continue our conversation. It led to me trying to describe what my Franciscan Third Order vocation meant. When I think about it it’s difficult enough in English!

Half an hour later and I was off again and on looking at the road signs deciding I had chosen the right season to walk.

Unexpectedly the trail took me downhill. There were more views too, I am going to have to stop mentioning views, they are too numerous and awesome.

There was a beautiful stretch of woodland which was populated by some lovely wooden sculptures. The figure of Christ I found particularly engaging.

I found a handy bench and decided I would stop for a break and some snacks. Just as I had packed up another pilgrim passed by and we got to talking. He is a veteran of the Camino de Santiago and the Via di Francesco having walked them multiple times. He had a great affection for Saint Francis and we had a great conversation.

He went on ahead as we came to a particularly steep forest path section. I thought I was doing well as I struggled up these tracks which to me were almost vertical.

I decided to check my route only to discover I had wandered onto the wrong path. My phone has good maps so I decided to continue and just join the official trail a bit further up the hill. I stopped as the two trails joined and had some lunch. As I was sitting there I got to thinking about my illustration of repentance. I had worked out it was like when I’m walking , I stop, realize I am on the wrong path and set off back to where I should be. What came to me then how gracious God is to make the path back so beautiful, just as I had experienced on this journey.

I continued onwards and upwards and passed some men sitting around a fire. This set off some more musing about how this whole journey is living Saint Francis’ Canticle of the Creatures.

I am sure it’s my imagination but there always seems to be a particularly steep stretch just before the finish However I finally arrived at my destination of Consuma. I was too early for check-in so I stopped at the church to get my Credeziale stamped. I ended up stopping for quite a while just praying and reflecting on my uphill journey.

I walked out the church to discover the hostel I was staying that was just next door. The host was very hospitable and more and more pilgrims arrived. We ended up sharing a communal meal which was such a joy. The struggle of 1000mtr was forgotten amongst the joy of a shared pilgrimage journey.

All in all a day which was billed as difficult and grueling was not half as bad as it was made out to be because of the wonderful things to see and especially the pilgrims who are companions on the way.

Day 7 on the Via di Francesco

Today was a day spent almost entirely walking through forest. I was reminded of the idea of ‘Forest Bathing’; a definition being ” the practice of intentionally immersing oneself in a forest atmosphere using all five senses to reduce stress, improve mental health, and boost immunity. I am not sure about all of that but there is something special about walking through natural forest.

Words from Zabaldika on the Camino de Santiago which came to me yesterday came into my mind again today.

The Camino calls you to contemplate, to be amazed, to welcome, to interiorize, to stop, to be quiet, to listen to, to admire, to bless .. nature, our companions on the journey, our own selves, God.

These first few days it’s less about the destination(s) but more about the journey.

The day quite start so perfect – waking up in a shared room with three women who were still asleep and realising I hadn’t prepared my backpack and not wanting to disturb them. I shoved everything in my bag and sorted it downstairs then set off to find somewhere to pray.

The place I found could have been better when I climbed out of the village I arrived at the pass where there was some seating and yet another view! I couldn’t help but praise God with that to look at.

Once again I consciously slowed down to hear the sounds, smell the scent of the forest and flowers. Several times I felt like I was walking a golden processional route with broom flowering.

There weren’t as many spectacular views today as the forest was so dense, but it gave more of an opportunity to enjoy the detail. The sound of a cuckoo, the abundance of chestnut trees.

As I knew there was going to be several stream crossings I tried out my hiking sandals. It mean I could just wade through without worrying about getting my feet wet. I already hike in barefoot boots which give me a real connection with the earth I am walking on because of the thin soles but these sandals were a whole new level. My feet were washed in the stream, covered in mud from the trail, an even deeper connection with Mother Earth. I did change back later though.

At some point I was reminded of the hymn, How Great thou art.

When thru the woods
And forest glades I wander
And hear the birds
Sing sweetly in the trees,
When I look down
From lofty mountain grandeur
And hear the brook
And feel the gentle breeze,

Chorus
Then sings my soul,
My Savior God, to Thee;
How great Thou art,
How great Thou art!
Then sings my soul,
My Savior God, to Thee;
How great Thou art,
How great Thou art!

I will admit I was singing as I walked. In one day I felt I had experienced the whole lot!

As always the last few kilometers felt like a struggle.

I arrived at the destination, tired and in need of a rest. Once I had found my accommodation I enjoyed some peaceful solitary time to relax and restore. I had called at the local Coop and picked up some Tuscan Bean Soup to heat up in the microwave and because I felt like I needed to replenish my electrolytes ………..

Day 8 on the Via di Francesco

This was not a ‘Rest Day’ as I walked 12km but looking back this was one of the most wonderful experiences of my journey so far. It started out a bit flat to be honest with my morning prayer routine and what I thought was a careful pack-up. I looked out of the window and it was raining so for once maybe the weather forecast had got it right.

The rain stopped as I set off making the most of this break. I met another pilgrim who had been told there was to be 12mm of rain today which sounded ominous. It was then I realised I had left my walking poles in the apartment so back I went and did it all again

It’s always a struggle getting going in the morning when I first set off but it’s suprising when you look back, always a good idea when you need to catch your breath how quickly you gain height

I noticed a hand written sign for a cross with an arrow pointing down through some pasture. As I had plenty of time I thought I would investigate and I was pleasantly surprised to find a large wooden cross on the hillside with an awesome view over the town. It was worth the detour.

Then not long after I took this next picture it started raining.

There was no wind today and it felt like the rain concentrated the natural scents of the forest around me. I was still able to notice flowers and other details despite the rain.

I arrived at my destination, Rifugio Asqua about lunchtime. It was chaos a group of italian pilgrims had decided to stop there for lunch so the hosts were rushing around serving them. There was a roaring fire in the massive fireplace which was wonderful. I took the time while I waited for the luchtime crowd to disappear to write up my journal then explained who I was. It was a very relaxed place, pilgrims would just come in to get warm and then move on.

We overcame our language difficulties and I was shown my room. I went back downstairs and began updating this website. Everyone was very kind. I wasn’t made a fuss of as a paying guest it just felt like I was part of the family. I had some interesting conversations, some of which felt quite deep. It was made more informal by several dogs – mostly very big ones. I was even assured that one was part wolf.

I felt so relaxed, I was just included. Even when other’s came and went I didn’t feel like I wasn’t welcome. It was a very strange sensation – it’s seems to me that this is real hospitality, a sharing of lives. Its the difference between just being welcomed and being included. They cooked a delicious dinner for me.

It was a very special place. I felt like this was an opportunity to rest on my journey. Not just a physical rest but something deeper. This is why I am calling it my day of rest. I suspect that this post is one I will come back to in the future because this lovely family affected me so deeply.

Day 9 on the Via di Francesco

I woke up and looked out of the window. It looked about the same as when I had arrived the day before, misty and raining.

To compound it I read in one of the Psalms in Morning Prayer

You visit the earth and water it,
you make it very plenteous
The river of God is full of
water;

May the pastures of the wilderness flow with goodness 
and the hills be girded with joy.

I was expecting another wet day. But as it happened by the time I had a great breakfast the sun came out! God’s timing and I wasn’t complaining.

It was an emotional parting and I had a spring in my step as the trail was good and the sun was shining.

I walked on admiring the inevitable views and came to these trees with golden blossom. This is the real golden arches.

I love the idea of me walking this golden pilgrimage. I was overflowing with joy.

The path took me down to Camaldoli where there is a Benedictine Monstery despite them taking guests I was glad I had made the accomodation choice I did.

I was in the zone just walking happily and realised I was going the wrong way! Thankfully I didn’t have to backtrack too far but then was faced with a near verticle section of forest path. I am sure the photo doesn’t do it justice. I don’t think I have ever tackled anything like that before.

Then followed a painfully long and slow climb up the mountain. In these sections I am typically stopping every few steps to catch my breath. There were things to appreciate on the way up so it wasn’t ‘suffering’ all the way. I reckon this tree root looks like a wolf – it’s a Franciscan pilgrimage after all.

Every stop for breath gives an opportunity to look, listen, smell and appreciate the beauty of the forest.

The climb was about an hour and a half of steep climbing. Just before the top there was a handy refuge hut which was a natural resting place.

I began to muse as I do about how I normally walk on my own and how such a stop start climb would annoy a lot of people. I had met several pilgrims by now and we were all walking to the same destinations but at different speeds. Some had their luggage transfered between stops, some were taking taxis and buses. I thought too of Tony and Hannah God willing finally finishing the Camino Frances after I first met them whn I walked that Pilgrimage. I believe we do need to allow people to walk their own path and not expect everyone to be the same.

Today”s uphill was followed by if anything a longer downhill. After yesterdays’s rain the paths were very slippery and it was slow going watching every step on the loose rocks, tree roots, and mud, lots of mud!

Eventually I did arrive at my hotel in Badia Prataglia. I was welcomed, shown my room and then pretty much ignored. The host was friendly and helpful but the contrast with last night was very clear. Not that one is better than the other they are just different. I had a restaurant meal in the hotel which was really nice and a good breakfast the next morning. I am living the dream

Day 10 on the Via di Francesco

It may have been a short walk but it started with a steep climb. Maybe walking uphill matches my mood. I had received an email last night to tell me my train from Assisi on the way back was not running so I will need to get a bus replacement at some unearthly hour in the morning. That together with me beginning to think about how I would feel about getting to La Verna made me all the more determined to be present as I walked. I can’t do anything about the future so I just have to make the most of each mpment on the trail.

Catching your breath going uphill is always a good time to look back.

In the spirit of noticing things I came across this Pilgrim’s Fountain – I didn’t need a drink but it was good to know that people still look after pilgrims.

Each piece of forest I walk through seems to have a different character with different species of trees and undergrowth. It’s means that days and days of forest is not boring in the slightest.

Today I was musing about route finding and finding my way through life’s journey. Because the forest is so dense I often have no external points of reference so rely on the stripes on trees. Red and white ones mainly denoting I am on a recognised trail.

Looking at my phone will tell me almost exactly where I am and there will be a route description but it doesn’t always help when you are faced with indistinct paths through the forest, I did come across this one which I am calling the Way of the Cross. I’m not sure the cross added anything to route finding in this case.

My destination for today was on a spur from the main route and once I had decided at a crossroads which direction I was going in I had to trust I had had made the right decision for a while before I came across a signpost. I can spend quite a lot of time second guessing myself.

However my place to stay eventually appeared through the trees and I was welcomed by a lovely playful dog.

In the end I was one of only three pilgrims staying here. It was a joy to share an evening meal together, Thankfully the other guests were both American so on this occasion language wasn’t a problem. It was a joy to share stories of how we came to be on this pilgrimage.

Day 11 (Morning) on the Via di Francesco

One of the American ladies was getting a lift to La Verna so over breakfast I arranged to walk with Mary. Without giving too much away we are of a similar age. Walking on my own is my default mode but this seemed a great opportunity to share with another pilgrim.

We set off and discovered we walk at a similar pace. It was lovely to share our stories and our experience of walking. After a gentle descent from our accommodation we walked though a little village and discovered the first obstacle of the day. A small river had swollen with recent rain so it was off with the shoes and roll up trousers to wade across.

Then it was the first of our steep climbs through the forest. There is something very different sharing a climb like this. One leads and encouges the other then you swap over. It is still difficult and challenging yet somehow if feels easier.

As always there is beauty to share too. Once on to the mountain ridge walking got a bit easier. We couldn’t walk side by side often but we often paused and caught up with each other.

We crossed a road and we entered a completely different kind of forest. This is the Foreste Sacra which is for us the approach to the Santuario de La Verna. It was a sudden transformation into an almost mystical landscape of ancient trees and moss covered rocks.

This is the kind of landscape of caves and clefts in the rock which Francis would seek out to pray.

There were occasional views before going back into the trees.

Eventually I looked up and saw the walls of the sanctuary above us.

There was still quite a climb to get there but finally we arrived at the lower gate.

Once we arrived we went our separate ways. This was companionship for a short time. It was precious but it was for a moment. It made a morning walk that much sweeter.

Day 11 (Afternoon & Evening) on the Via di Francesco

I always felt that spending time at the Sanctuary of La Verna was going to be a pivotal moment in my journey. I am sure I have not yet worked it out but it was significant.

My first task was to check-in which proved quite challenging as I wandered around not really knowing where anything was and realising it was a bigger complex than I had realised. I finally found the check-in desk then had another wander until I finally found my dormitory. I was now in possession of a “Spiritual Itinerary of the Pilgrim” a handy ENglish Langauage Guide. My wandering became more purposeful.

The open space at the front had magnificent views enough to inspire anyone to praise the glories of creation.

I had a quick loook round but the place was very busy with pilgrims and tourists. I had felt a connection with Saint Francis as I walked through the forests and mountains but as yet I had yet to feel a connection here.

I did find the votive chapel and as I have done a couple of times on the journey I lit a candle for all those I am praying for. I started out with a small one but then decided a 3 euro large one might be more appropriate. You’re worth it!

I was in time for the daily procession to the Chapel of the Stigmata by the friars. I joined the service in the main church but with my lack of Italian I could only sit and listen. The friars were sitting in what we would call the choir behind the altar screen. It seemed to me that there was a barrier somehow. The procession started and went along the covered corridor to the chapel where there were some more prayers and readings . In the end I felt alienated rather than included. It did unsettle me.

I think it took gazining at a habit worn by Francis in conjunction with a visit to the grotto with the bed of Saint Francis to break through.

I became aware of my Franciscan vocation and it wasn’t a questioning of it more a sudden realisation of what I had to live up to. I had begun to feel a connection with Francis in some way.

I found my way to the Sasso Spico or Jutting out Stone where FRancis prayed it gives context to the stories I read about him that he loved these clefts of the rock to pray and get close to God. It put me in mind of that old hymn I was encouraged by a few weeks ago.

He’s hiding my soul in the cleft of the rock
That shadows a dry, thirsty land;
He’s hiding my life in the depths of his love
And cov’ring me there with his hand,
And cov’ring me there with his hand.

After more wandering and chatting to a few pilgrims it was time for my dinner. We were allocated tables according to some plan – I am not sure what. I was sat with a german coule who I had met crossing the river at the beginning of the day but their english was just a bit better than my German so it was not easy.

After dinner I met up with the Austrian pilgrim I had met a few days ago and he shared again his love of Saint Francis. I then bumped into an English couple who had just finished walking a different pilgrim route. WE had a great chat and I discovered I wasn’t the only one singing “How great Thou art” while walking. I was the last one back to the dormitory but despite yawning my way through the evening I couldn’t get to sleep.

Day 12 on the Via di Francesco

The.day started at something past 4am with the certainty of the overwhelming grace of God in his completed work of atonement in the Ascension and His continual work of intercession.

I must have drifted off at some point as next time I was semi-conscious it was 5.30ish. I could see dawn was breaking so I got dressed in my warmest clothes and went outside. The views were spectacular but different to yesterday. The sky was highlighted in pink and clouds were in the valleys an obscuring the mountain tops.

I said my Morning Prayer and Community Obedience there on the mountain top of Saint Francis. It was mind blowing. It was extra special as I was praying for the Durham Area that day.

I set off at 8.30 after breakfast with the Austrian pilgrim who told me he had thought of the Third Order but the rules were too strict. I think I’m glad I ended up in the Society of Saint Francis!

Brother Wind was playing and I am sure I could hear the trees creaking as I climbed the next hill. Thinking about playing I reckon Mother Earth and Sister Water had a great time creating the mud which seemed to be a daily feature.

It seems like you can’t go downhill without first going uphill. Eventually though it was all downhill. As always I was trying to concentrate on the details as I walked luke this field of gold.

Or these flowers including the first roses of my pilgrimage.

I was getting weary though. A disturbed night and something of a comedown from the emotional heights meant I was getting desperate for my destination. I had booked at a B&B which involved a 15 minute climb at the end.

After showering instead of a much needed nap I dragged myself down into town to a launderette. The joys of pilgrimage. It wasn’t the greatest of meals that evening. It was rather a flat end to a wonderful day.

Day 13 on the Via di Francesco

I started.today feeling much more positive. I had packed the night before and after a quick breakfast I was off. I walked down into town and it started raining. So I stopped put my wet weather gear on and after a while the rain stopped.

My first decision of the day was to visit the Hermitage of Cerebaiolo but taking the road option rather than a mountain trail I had originally thought of. It was still the normal uphill walk though with occasional views.

When I got to the hermitage it was shut but what I loved were the boards with quotations from the Canticle of the Creatures by Saint Francis.

Be praised, my Lord, for brother wind and by air and clouds, clear skies and all weathers, by which you give sustenance to your creatures.

The next decision was to take a waymarked trail which wasn’t on my phone app direct from the hermitage rather than backtracking to the official trail. This was a good decision even though I was going into the clouds and the rain was getting heavier.

I stopped at a very nice bar/cafe at the pass and had a coffee and croissant as a reward for my climb. I checked my guidebook and there was an option for a detour when the weather was wet. That seemed a sensible thing.

So when I set off what did I do? I saw a sign for the official route, changed my mind and chose that one. It proved to be fateful. It was very muddy, very, very muddy and slippery. There were occasional views among the rain showers and mist.

I reached the highest point and then began my descent. Then it happened, despite my wonderful grippy boots and my poles. I slipped and I like to think gracefully went over on my back. I ended up covered in mud with a broken pole which I must have landed on.

The rest of the descent was a bit miserable and once I was on a easier trail to my destination the rain became much heavier. On the plus side the rain began to wash some of the mud off.

My destination at Refugio Pian della Capanna was a welcome sight. I was able to shower, change and start getting warmed. They lit a lovely log fire which always gladdens my heart and made a cup of tea. I regretted my decision to take the wrong option but I was warm and the host even temporarily fixed my broken pole.

I had a lovely dinner with the host and two hikers who were staying that night. Highlight was the Cantucci , biscuits dipped in sweet wine. Life is good even if it was still raining.

Day 14 on the Via di Francesco

The rain had stopped but there was water everywhere. I was up early, no one else was around and after my Morning Prayer I made my own breakfast and set off. I was feeling positive after yesterday.

I soon realised that the water that fell yesterday was still flowing this time turning each path into a stream.

I was glad I had brought my waterproof socks which meant my feet remained dry despite walking through streams. The trail had a beauty of its own despite the water everywhere.

There were views again!

I had been carrying my poles rather than using them as the repair meant I could use them but at the wrong height. I got annoyed and left them at a village I passed through. I thought I would try walking without poles. It was not a good decision, I could manage but it did not feel right.

There were loads of stream crossings some were quite challenging as the streams were swollen.

Later I came across this sign at a stream crossing.which was barely a trickle.

it seemed a bit odd that there were no signs on the difficult ones. The trail dried out as I wound my way around the hills on the way to the Eremo di Montecasale. This was a hermitage actually visited by Saint Francis so I was looking forward to it.

As I approached there was an impressive statue of Francis.

When I got to the hermitage there were two coach loads of visiting Friars and Nuns filling the place with their cameras. I didn’t find either peace or any real sense of Saint Francis. I did however light a candle as II went in noting that behind it was the prayer before the cross.

I had a look round as best I could, it was beautiful but I felt unsettled by the visit.

in the end I cut my losses and set off down the road to Sansepolcro. I would miss a couple of things associated with Saint Francis but more and more I felt the connection with him as I was walking. That’s where I felt closest to him rather than in sites or relics. I felt quite emotional as I walked into the city of Sansepolcro.

Of course it started to rain again. The city was the biggest one I had passed through since Florence. I checked in to my room and had a quick look round. At that time in the afternoon there were few people around. It was still something of a culture shock after the mountains and forests.

Later after a nap the sun came out and I went out again after the city had come alive. There were people everywhere. Oddly I felt an outsider, as much for the fact I was on my own and had no one to socialise with. I ended up getting a gelato, people watching and then going back to my room. My re-introduction to civilisation wasn’t quite what I had expected.

Day 15 on the Via di San Francesco

I had done some research the night before so I had worked out I could get breakfast and just across the road I could pick up snacks etc at a supermarket. It involved leaving the city on an old route which had now been superceded. Guess where I had breakfast?

It was a glorious sunny day and it was so nice to feel the sun’s warmth. The route was very flat until the final hill.

What a novelty it was to not be climbing up and down mountains in warm sunshine.

I stopped in a village to change into my sandals and take off my fleece when I was hailed by a man from across the road. When I went across I discovered this was the diorama of Christ’s last three years IIhad read about. He invited me in and set the commentary to run in English. It was very impressive. He offered coffee, water and cherries. It was a lovely stop on the journey.

I continued on. Today was just a short walk. Even though it was mostly on roads I missed my poles and resolved to get some new ones in Citta di Castello which was tomorrow’s destination.

I had arranged to stay in the guest accommodation of a Benedictine Convent. I was the first to arrive. It was lovely, very peaceful with everything I needed.

I had a look round the village/city which was definitely geared up to welcome pilgrims.

There were also views back where I had been walking for the past few days.

I attended Vespers even though I didn’t understand very much. It was beautiful and very moving sharing this with the Nuns and a few others.

Other than that I had a quiet night.

Day 16 on the Via di Francesco

The goal for today was not just to get to my destination but to get some new walking poles. My route should have been nearly 20km today, up a d down several mountains and into beautiful valleys. I did the first few ups and downs which as always awesomely beautiful.

There was less forest today, the scenery was changing to a more agricultural landscape.

It was beautiful but I was feeling unsettled without my poles. There were a few tricky descents.

I arrived at the village of Lerchi where I made the decision to take a shortcut along the road, to make sure I was in good time to find the shop where I hoped I could buy some poles. It did cut a bit off my route and I entered the city at 11.00am. It was nice to cross the River Tiber as I arrived.

I went straight to the shop and got my poles. What a sense of relief. I have got so used to walking with them. It did mean I had a good couple of hours to look around. The place was a maze of medieval buildings which looked amazing. Weirdly I didn’t take any photos.

I was able to check-in at 3.00pm to a wonderful Franciscan house called the Rose of Jericho. I met pilgrims there who I had met before and at least was able to speak in English.

We had a great communal meal inthe evening which meant I could socialise!

Feeling stuffed I eventually fell asleep. Order had been restored.

Day 17 on the Via di Francesco

Sometimes odd prayers pop into my mind. One such is from Common Worship, can’t remember which Psalm it belongs to.

Lord God, just and true,
you make your salvation known in the sight of the nations;
tune the song of our hearts to the music of creation
as you come among us to judge the earth;
through our Saviour Jesus Christ

I woke up as the first first person in the room started getting ready to go, 5am it was but then they were walking further than me. I decided it wasn’t worth trying to get back to sleep so I got up too. This morning I had no energy and felt tired from the get go. I got packed up, found a quiet piazza said my Morning Devotions and I started walking about 6.30am. It was a sunny day but for once I was glad it was an uphill start because it was quite cold.

There’s quite often encouragement along the way like this sign someone had put up.

That prayer I mentioned popped into my head and in the quiet of a sunny morning I resolved to tune the song of my heart to the music of creation. I wanted to be present as I walked taking in the wild flowers along the way, the song of the birds, the crops and vegetable gardens I was passing. Up and down hills, through rich farmland, full of olive groves and vineyards. On many days of this journey I feel like I am walking on a golden pathway.

I was just enjoying the beauty of creation. Often on the uphills while I was catching my breath I would listen for the birds and smell the fragrance of the flowers. There were often views around every corner so much so that I don’t take half as many landscapes as I did at the beginning. It’s all so overwhelmingly beautiful.

The agriculture gave way to forest again oak and pine predominating. This I discovered is truffle country. The trail was getting steeper and I was getting more and more exhausted. Thankfully there was along section of track along the ridge line which helped.

Focusing on the details as I was walking did help though. The hotter it got towards the middle of the day the stronger the scent of the broom bushes and the pine trees got. I was longing to finally arrive at my destination and even the inevitable view didn’t seem to bring it any closer.

By this time I was feeling more and more tired and even began wondering if I should get a bus on Thursday which was my longest stage of 26km

Thankfully my destination came into sight.

The hostel and church of Pieve di Saddi has something of a reputation on this pilgrim route. They offer any pilgrim hospitality and food on a donation basis. I arrived and it felt a bit difficult at first because of my lamentable lack of Italian. But I could take off my backpack and my boots and have cool drink from the chiller cabinet. I was too early to check-in but made the most of my time to write in my journal and update my website.

While I was sitting there there were so many pilgrims passing through who would be offered food, and drink including the excellent Italian coffee. It was all given freely and there was encouragement but no obligation to give money in return.

Another host arrived and welcomed me. Then while I was sittting there I could here beautiful organ music in the attached church.

Somehow this connected me back to my prayer, beautiful strains of J.S.Bach somehow also the music of creation.

I got my bed allocated and was just reading quietly when I was called to the communal meal. Everyone was so kind to me. Someone even translated bits of the converation so I could just about follow along. I was able to share that I was a Novice in the Third Order of the Society of St Francis. People are unaware that Anglicans can be Franciscans too even if not many understand what the Thirds Order is at all.

All in all while at the start of the afternoon I had felt an outsider by the end of the evening I was well and truly included. The spirit of love and generosity of this place had captured me.

I also felt so rested after a quiet afternoon and a convivial evening. I also knew I only had a short walk the next day.

Day 18 on the Via di Francesco.

Feeling rested and refreshed not just by sleep but by the atmosphere of the place I set off again. I was thinking today again of the open handed generosity of God in creation. So much of current life seems to be about efficiency, productivity, profitability and return on investment. God’s creation seems to have no limit, it just keeps on giving

As yesterday, It wasn’t all about the ups and downs, it was about the wild flowers, and the scent of a forest. It was too about the creepers climbing trees.

I took multiple opportunities to rest knowing I had loads of time. I was enjoying seing fields of beans which still seem odd to me since I just associate them with vegetable plots.

I was musing about the generosity of God and comparing it to the open handed generosity at the hostel I had stayed in last night. It also came to me that this is what the Franciscan principle of living simply might be too. Rather than seek to possess and accumulate this sense of trusting God and sharing seems very attractive. I know there are always going to be a lot of questions about the practicalities but I’ll leave that until I get back.

My destination came in sight and as so often I had to go down a steep hill and up another one to get there.

Today I had booked an appartment through booking.com so after a leisurely sit in the piazza I check-in and it was good to have my own space for tonight. I had a really early night tonight because I wanted to be rested and ready for a really early start. I had decided to walk 26km rather than get the bus, not because there was anything wrong with getting the bus but I didn’t need to anymore.

Day 19 on the Via di Francesco

Up early and on the road by 6.30am – I was prepared for a long day. I made sure I was enjoying the cool of the early morning as I left town knowing that by the time I arrived it would be hot.

There were all kinds of this to think about today, sometimes the quirky things catch the eye.

Thankfully my barefoot boots are still like slippers even though I sometime worry that the soles are wearing out.

I began thinking about Saint Francis and the wolf of Gubbio, that being my destination. (do some research for the story). It seemed to me that there will be conflicts between people and creation. Saint Francis was able to bring peace into the conflict. People often say the wolf was tamed, I kind of think it was still wild just prepared to cooperate. In some ways it took courage for the people of the town to set aside their fears and make compromises. This is spreading the spirit of love and harmony not just between people but with nature/creation too.

I was glad I had decided to walk rather than catch the bus. I was every bit as entranced by the beauty of what I was walking through as always.

There were too, reminders that this wasn’t just a walk, but a pilgrimage

But as always there were the views

As I came down from the hills into the valley. The distance, the heat and would you believe the flat landscape began to wear me down. It was almost as if what energy I had was evaporating. I even noticed a dry river bed. Such a contrast to the week before.

Eventually Gubbio came in sight and very impressive it looked.

My B&B was in the newer part down the hill so I checked in and got freshened up before having a look around.

I wasn’t quite ready for a charming medieval walled town full of tourists. My inability to be a tourist really kicked in. I did go into a big Franciscan Church looking for a stamp for my Credenziale. Outside was the statue of Saint Francis and the Wolf; inside I gazed at the beauty but all I felt was Saint Francis isn’t here.

It unsettled me and I felt disturbed. I left the main town, found the Coop and got some food and retreated to my room. I think I was too tired to process what I was feeling. To be honest I was a bit concerned about my few days at the end in Assisi. How would I fare in what is a very busy tourist city?

Day 20 on the Via di Francesco

I read these words of the Psalm as I read Morning Prayer

Heaviness may endure for a night, but joy comes in the morning.

And so it was, by the time I had got ready and had some breakfast I felt much better about everything. I didn’t have a long journey today so I walked back up to the old city to pick up the way markers for my route. I reflected on the previous evening and decided that maybe I was asking the wrong questions, perhaps I wasn’t supposed to be looking for Francis.

I had felt closer to him when I was walking through forests and I think I expected to find him when I arrived somewhere where it was recorded that he lived. I mused that maybe he would more likely to have been found in the modern town rather than the bars and museums.

I headed out of down and across the valley. This was the morning so a much more pleasant walk than yesterday

I was passing houses, gardens, veg plots and fields. Returning to my thoughts from yesterday I was thinking that rather than forests and wild places, these cultivated spaces are where man and creation meet. How we manage that without one damaging the other is an ongoing struggle. I recalled the second day of my walk when I was passing through some vineyards while they were spraying them.

What it reinforced in my mind was my desire to go home, not do any more long walks for a long time and cultivate my garden.

One of the things about wallking on a straight flat path for a while is it gives you plenty of time for your mind to wander. I thought about Saint Francis and Saint Cuthbert inhabiting a space between ‘normal’ ife and creation. Also straddling the boundary between the Kingdom of God that is now and what it will be in its fullness. (Beware! Lots of unfinished thinking here)

I was reflecting that I too inhabit such a space sometimes, volunteering at Basis Drop-in yet living in a different world.

Eventually the climb began, as each day there always is at least one and ususally more. Today as so often there are things which catch my attention. First thing today was what I thought of as a sensible river crossing as I remembered the ones I did on my way down from the mountains to Sanspolcro.

Then there was the kindness of people along the route to pilgrims passing by.

The higher I got I was walking through forest again when the views opened up.

I had finally started to go down towards my stop for the night when I got talking with a pilgrim from the Netherlands. The rest of the walk that day passed quickly with pleasant conversation.

We had both arranged to stay at the Hermitage of St Peter in the Vineyard. It is run by the Italian Confraternity of St James and take their responsibilities to their pilgrim guests very seriously. We were checked in and shown to our dormitory and had the rest of the afternoon to rest.

Others were enjoying the afternoon sun too.

In the evening the bell summoned us to chapel where the seven of us who were staying that night were welcomed. We then had one foot washed in a symbolic gesture with prayer and a kiss. It was such a profound moment.

After that we had a wonderful communal meal, cooked by the volunteers and supplemented by some apple pancakes cooked by a pilgrim from Germany.

A fitting end to a wonderful day. It was a beautiful place of abundant peace and joy.

Day 21 on the Via di Francesco.

This was a day when I woke up after a disturbed night. Maybe it’s the Italian culture of eating a substantial meal quite late who knows. At 5.00am I got up and decided to creep out and pray as the sun was rising. It did not disappoint.

I read the familiar words from Morning Prayer.

In the tender compassion of our God,
The dawn from on high shall break upon us.
To shine on those who dwell in darkness and the shadow of death,
And to guide our feet into the way of peace.

We were given a short benediction as we set off. This was a visually beautiful walk. Sometimes up and down, then twisting and turning to follow the contours of the hills as we walked around the side of this large lake filling the valley below.

It’s interesting that a sublime time of prayer and thankfulness doesn’t always last very long. As the heat of the sun increased so did my weariness. If it had been a direct route across the lake it wouldn’t have been very far but the continual twists and turns felt like I was never going to reach my destination. The beauty of the views and the flowers were there but didn’t bring refreshment. This was one of those days when the knowledge that this was the penultimate day of the walk made a difference to my mood.

I did eventually of course arrive at Valfabricca which was my stop for the night. It was very much a small town which had decided they were going to be a pilgrim town. The wall painting at the entrance to the town hinted at that. I loved the style.

I found my hostel, had a quick beer and a shower then had a rest. I had a dormitory room all to myself which was nice. Later that evening I walked around a bit and ended up having another beer and chatting to a couple of pilgrims I had met yesterday.

Tomorrow was my last day of walking. I planned to arrive in Assisi as soon as possible. No matter how awesome this walk had been I was ready for it to end.

Day 22 on the Via di Francesco

I was awake again at 5.00am and prayed and packed to start walking at 6.00am. There was a Bar open so I popped in for a quick coffee. A love for Espresso coffee is one of the discoveries of this trip. On the way out of town I noticed almost every shop had decided on some kind of pilgrim reference. What I did notice was a series of wall paintings on the life of Saint Francis. Expect a separate post about these.

I went on a bit further and on impulse I turned off the official route. There was a sign pointing to a Natural trail so off I went. I checked on my map and noted a green line would rejoin the official route later so I felt safe. It was beautiful.

I wanted to make the most of the forest and flowers that I could. I did meet a very grumpy man in a car who was horrified I had deviated from the route. But I had made my decision and carried on.

I began musing on the choices we make. I thought about claims of orthodoxy and following one official and rigid path. Yet here was a path not much used as I discovered , sections of which had been used in the past as the official route. I think there is something there for further musings I think.

I saw the Basilica in the distance as I rounded a corner and as I realised I wasn’t too far away remembered that I may be in time for the Eucharist at the Anglican Church in Assisi. I started going a bit faster than my normal walking speed as I wasn’t sure what time the service started.

After yet another grueling climb up the final hill I arrived at the city gate. I had done it!

I didn’t have time to rest as I had to find my way to the church. I did manage this in good time though.

I wasn’t at my best and probably didn’t get as much out of this as I had hoped. I was tired, sweaty and generally disheveled. I did have a chat with a visitor from North Wales with his family. He was going to be ordained as a priest in June and had become a Postulant in the Third Order (TSSF).

It was then through the town and down the hill to check in to my hostel It’s name is Ostello del Pace and it has proved peaceful so far.

The only other person in my dormitory was a young German man. We were able to share our stories and I wouldn’t be surprised if he ends up as a Catholic Franciscan Friar. I rested that afternoon and evening. I was just enjoying the knowledge that I didn’t have to walk anywhere the next day.

Day 23 (1) on the Via di Francesco

The lad I was sharing my dormitory with was getting up at 5.00am – so on the first day I didn’t have to be up early I was. At least I had peace and quiet to wake up properly and say my Morning Prayers before a very nice breakfast.

I may not have had mountains to climb today but Assisi is a hill town. The city walls were a 15 minute walk up a steep hill from my hostel and then there was plenty of walking uphill to do from there.

My biggest task of the day was to get my Pilgrim Credential processed and get my Testimonium which ‘proves’ I made a religious pilgrimage.

As the Pilgrim’s Office didn’t open until 10.00 am I decided I would visit the Basilica and the tomb of St Francis.

I think I had very low expectations of this visit. Surprisingly I was very deeply moved. I remained kneeling in prayer for some time and felt a real connection with the Saint. It felt very much the same as when I check-in with Saint Cuthbert when I visit Durham Cathedral. I also felt the weight of my Franciscan vocation, not an oppressive weight but a sense that while very serious it felt so right. All this is difficult to put into words.

I stayed quietly until the volume of people passing through proved too much of a disturbance. I looked at the tombs of his companions around him and felt that he wasn’t on his own. The relics such as one of his habits and a signed piece of writing unexpectedly drew me closer to Francis.

I visited the Gift Shop and actually bought a few things, including a book about the origins and meaning of the Tau Cross. I passed through the Upper Basilica and saw the beautiful frescoes. They didn’t do anything for me, I kept thinking of the modern wall art I had passed as I left Valfbricca yesterday.

I walked back into the city and after a brief look at the Cathedral which was ok went to the Basilica of Saint Clare.

At this stage I wasn’t so interested in St Clare’s tomb – we don’t have the same connection. What I was there for was the cross which spoke to Saint Francis as he began his ministry. This was another moment where I felt a real connection with Francis. Especially since the prayer he prayed before that cross was so important for my pilgrimage. It looked so much more vibrant than the pictures and reproductions I had seen. I felt again the weight of my vocation. I would return here again before I left Assisi.