Thursday 18th May 2023
Distance 16.6km / 10.3 miles.
Rabanal del Camino – El Acebo
Today started so well. Albergue Guacelmo is such a special place. Unusually I was the last one up in the morning and even got to put the light on to pack. 06.45 and I was all packed and ready. I went downstairs and realised that breakfast was provided, how had I missed that. So I stopped for breakfast. I knew today’s walk was not a long one so felt relaxed about not setting off straight away. Breakfast was bread and marmalade and tea, such good tea. Jean and Paul the hosts were so lovely and easy to speak to. I had received five star service, over and above what was normal.
It was a struggle to leave. I half said morning prayer in the garden then decided I needed to set off. I said my final farewells with a hug and a handshake. It was a fairly gentle climb out of the village but it was cold, there was frost on the ground.
The views were sublime, woodland, scrub and view after view of forested hillsides and valleys. I said Morning Prayer as I walked – it was Ascension Day and I felt like I was my own mount of Ascension.
I noticed today that the bushes which had been yellow broom so far were white. Also as I walked there was a wonderful smell of wild thyme and pine, what a glorious day.
I climbed up through the village of Foncebadon up to pretty much the highest point of the Camino. The Cruz de Ferro. Traditionally at least in modern times pilgrims leave a stone here which they have brought from home, with different symbolism for each person. I left a pink granite stone from the Cheviots- to symbolise a pilgrim from the land of St Cuthbert.
The rest of my walk today was downhill and the views kept coming. My only struggle was trying to think kindly of a very loud group of pilgrims who were disturbing my peace.
I eventually reached my destination for today at El Acebo. It was a really quaint village with lots of restored houses and yet more awesome views.
I wanted to stay at the parochial hostel but there was quite a bit of time to wait before it opened.
While I was sitting in the sun the Hospitalero came up to me and said he would check me in early which was really nice. When I asked about an evening meal he said he was only providing breakfast. I got my bunk and got my chores done then went for a walk around the town and had a beer. By the time I got back an evening meal was now being provided. The hostel filled up and the meal was great. Very simple stew of chorizo and potatoes but made special by the people.
After he meal he ushered us all out to the edge of the village to see the sunset. This proved to be one of the most sublime moments of my whole pilgrimage. There was a cross which provided the foreground to the sun setting over the mountains and to be there with pilgrims from all over the world was so special.
A day of spiritual, emotional, and physical highs.