Wednesday 17th May 2023
Distance 20km / 12.4 miles.
Astorga – Rabanal del Camino
After leaving the city it was a gentle downhill walk past a hermitage where I was able to say a brief prayer. The trail was fairly flat at this stage though you soon began to climb. There were a succession of small villages which provided some extra interest. We were walking through more scrubland now and I noticed a change in the vegetation. It was a beautiful walk and the views opened up the higher we got. I saw my companions from yesterday but we didn’t chat beyond exchanging greetings, it was as if we had exhausted all that we wished to say yesterday.
We continued climbing into the mountains and walked through some exquisite woodland paths.
On the approach to the village of Rabanal I noticed fields with grass and cows grazing, it made such a change. The village was very quaint. There were a lot of restored houses and cobbled streets. I found my Albergue where I wanted to stay. As usual I was there too early so had a change to sit in the sun and also to visit the church opposite the hostel. It was lovely and there was a really peaceful atmosphere there. I took the opportunity to pray.
Once the hostel was open I checked in. This hostel was looked after by volunteers from the Confraternity of St James which is the organisation supporting pilgrims in this country. It was really nice to speak to people in English! I got sorted and made the most of the lovely garden. One of the highlights was afternoon tea in the garden with Yorkshire Tea and local biscuits with honey.
There was a Benedictine Monastery next door and I went across to the church for Vespers and later for Compline. There is something timeless and wonderful about black robed monks saying and singing the Divine Office. Interestingly much of the services was in Latin which I could follow easier than the Spanish bits. It cooled down rapidly as the sun set and it was great that the hostel had a lounge area with a real fire. It was great to sit and chat with other pilgrims.
This was such a special place. Everything came together to make it a ‘perfect day’.