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Wednesday 10th May 2023

Distance 23.4km / 14.5 miles

Carrion de los Condes – Ledigos

The guidebook warned me about today,

We pass through a flat and somewhat featureless landscape with little or no shade… Anticipate no facilities with no water and no toilets

John Brierley

I had low expectations about today and to be honest it became a bit of a grind though it wasn’t as featureless as I feared.

There were some attractive views as I left Carrion in the morning after Morning Prayer in the square outside the hostel.

This bit with woodland and rivers soon gave way to the long straight road. Whilst it was easy walking I did feel troubled by the little blister on my toe. This was a day when I practised my Nordic Walking technique. It certainly propelled me forward that bit faster. It took me a while but I did finally remember that this was a great example of a Roman road, obviously with some resurfacing since it was built. In so many places it was built on a causeway across the low lying and wet land (now drained). It was interesting to think that not only Romans had walked along this road but countless others over the intervening two thousand years.

A pop up cafe was open, thankfully so I was able to stop and have my normal coffee and pastries. As I set off walking again my mind was free to roam without having to worry about navigation or where I was going to sleep. I had booked a bed at the Albergue Morena at Ledigos. Among the thoughts I had was how the parochial hostels I had stayed in so far had punched above their weight in terms of hospitality and impact. The churches themselves seemed like so many in this country with congregations of a few, mainly older people, yet with a few committed volunteers they were providing something special to hundreds of volunteers each year.

I also was surprised to realise as I walked that I had come to terms with my mortality. I felt that if I died now I would be ok with that, it’s kind of difficult to explain. I could die in peace knowing that I and my life were accepted by God. Of course it’s immediately followed by the thought that while its ok to die now I’d rather stick around for a while longer!

At the end of today’s walk I came to a slightly hilly section with a scenic option. I wasn’t confident about the way marking so I continued on the main route. I entered the village and had to go all the way through to get to the albergue. It was quite modern and had a restaurant as well as a bar. I checked in and discovered this was one of the new places where the beds were in pods. You crawled in at the end and then pulled down a blind. Thankfully I didn’t have any claustrophobia. I got showered and did my laundry as usual then decided to treat myself to a Sangria. This was the first one I had, had in Spain and very nice it was too. I was on a roll and then had the meal of the day in the restaurant. This was a very different experience to yesterday’s accommodation.

Tuesday 9th May 2023

Distance 10km / 6.2 miles

Villarmentero de Campos – Carrion de los Condes

It was a short walk today. I got ready and was able to sit on a bench at the front of the Albergue and watch the dawn lighten the sky as I said Morning prayer. There was a load of food set out on a donation basis so I was able to get breakfast before I set off. My blister though small, wasn’t healing and was a reminder of my frailty. As I walked beside the fields I was captivated by the colour and contrast of the difference between the brown and the green together with the poppies.

It was a cool morning and easy walking over the rolling hills and I arrived in Carrion de los Condes by about 10.30, far too soon for the parochial Albergue to be open.

As I had plenty of time I went into the church. It was lovely and peaceful and had some background Gregorian chant playing.

O prayed my prayers and lit a candle in front of the statue of Sancta Maria del Camino o de las Victorias. It seemed appropriate.

When I came out of the church I saw a pilgrim on a bench who looked like he was waiting for the Albergue to open. I chatted to him and discovered he was from Argentina. While we were chatting someone else arrived and started the queue for the Albergue. The queue quickly grew and was quite convivial with people coming and going as they went to get something to eat. There were quite a lot of young people including a large group of Italians. A Russian girl who I had met at the hostel in Burgos arrived too.

Opening time came soon enough and a smiling Augustinian Nun checked us in. The dormitories were very crowded with hardly any space between the bunk beds but at least I got my normal bottom bunk being an older pilgrim. The only disappointment was that there was no communal meal here. I felt a bit isolated here, this was one of those occasions where everyone seemed to know everyone else except me. I noticed a group of young people who I had seen on and off for a few days – I missed having a bond like theirs for a few moments but then remembered that my interactions seemed to be with individuals.

I had a wander round the town in the afternoon and decided I would have a picnic. I got some bread, cheese, chorizo and fruit at a supermarket and found a bench in the park beside the river.

After I had eaten I thought I would take some photos beside the river. I noticed a completely naked man having a wash beside the river bank. his was beside the bridge in the middle of a public park. Obviously the cultural norms I was used to don’t apply here.

I returned to the Albergue and had a nap. The nuns were due to say Vespers in the church at 5.30 so I went along. I was still seeking my spiritual refreshment. Yet more disappointment as when the Sisters arrived a tour guide was in full flow in the church so they turned around and disappeared. I still had the opportunity to participate in the singing session though.

The Nuns gathered in the entrance hall of the hostel and there was quite a group of pilgrims crammed into every available space. One had a guitar and they handed out song sheets. There were songs in many different languages. As they sang I really felt them not just singing but sharing their love. They asked pilgrims who wished to to sing a song – I stayed quiet at that point. They then told us that the next morning they would pray for each one of the pilgrims who stayed there that night. I had got what I was hoping for by way of spiritual uplift.

I went to the Pilgrims Mass in the church which was a incomprehensible as usual but the pilgrims blessing afterwards was sublime. One of the nuns was translating the words of the priest. He explained how important the Eucharist was then each pilgrim was given a little paper star. They had been prepared by hand by the nuns. The stars referred to the Compostella the field of stars, (MIlky Way) which has guided pilgrims for centuries. In the darkness they would follow the stars. We could look at our star and seek the guidance of God on our journey.

My initial disappointment was blown away by the intensity of emotion I felt at the love and care from the Sisters and the church. I still don’t get the devotion to Mary though. At the end of the Benediction everyone went to the statue of the Virgin where I had lit a candle in the morning and sang Salve Regina. Despite that the evening had been every bit the spiritual boost I had been looking for.

Another great day and only 401kms to go.

Monday 8th May

Distance 23.6km / 14.6 miles

Itero de la Vega – Villarmentero de Campos

No one in the dorm was obviously awake so I was the first one to get up for a change. I got ready and set off in the dawn light and found some stone benches at the edge of the village. I said Morning Prayer and just as I started walking again I felt something different about my right foot. When I checked I noticed a blister just on the end of my little toe. It’s kind of strange I had not noticed it before. I thought it was strange that I seem to get blisters when I’m stressed and push on when walking without resting properly

It was a pleasant walk and I got into a steady rhythm with my poles. It enabled my mind to wander freely. I was musing about my experience so far. I think that maybe my day at Zabaldika shouldn’t be expected to be the norm on my journey – like life it couldn’t be lived at that intensity. I still have more than half of the way to complete. Today brought a sense of contentment and refreshment of purpose.

I came across George from Liverpool, again! We stopped at Boadilla del Camino for a coffee but I left him there to have a second cup and a bocadillo while I pushed on.

The next section of the walk went from fields to canal side. It made for a different experience with boards describing the birds to be seen not that it was much help as it was in Spanish of course. It was a refreshing change even if the terrain remained quite flat today.

II left the canal just before Fromista where I had a refreshment break and got some cash from a handy ATM. Walking the Camino you realise that here at least cash is still king in so many places.

I didn’t linger too long in Fromista and once again pushed on until I reached Poblacion de Campos, where I had some juice and a comfort break then picked up some lunch at a Supermercado. With a name like that I had expected them to be bigger but in the smaller towns and villages they had the name of a supermarket but were essentially local convenience stores. The next stage of the walk involved a choice, walking beside a road with no shade or beside a river with shade. I am not quite sure why but I chose the road!

I did find the variety of crops and fields interesting though believe it or not. I eventually reached my Albergue and it had a lovely relaxed feel to it. Hammocks in the garden with geese and a couple of donkeys on the other side of the fence. It had a ‘hippyish’ vibe I decided. The Ukrainian flag out front was because there was a Ukrainian girl working there. I had a lovely refreshing beer when I arrived and an ice cream.

Who should appear at the Albergue but George from Liverpool. We had another long chat. I did my laundry and just lounged about in the garden. This was the fabled George from Liverpool strumming on a guitar which was lying around.

The geese were cute even if I did get pecked once or twice.

The communal meal was the best I had had so far. Salad, Vegetable soup, Pasta and Sauce, and Pork Loin with a yoghurt to finish. I was really full especially as I had eaten on the way. At dinner I spoke with an American mother and daughter who I would have taken as sisters. I am sure I had noticed them before somewhere.

I managed to book accommodation for Wednesday and Thursday. It would just be a short day tomorrow to Carrion de los Condes where I planned to stay at the parochial hostel. I needed a dose of spiritual refreshment.

Sunday 7th May

Distance 20.2km / 12.5 miles

Hontanas – Itero de la Vega

I got up as early as I could, got packed in the common room and said Morning Prayer on the terrace as dawn broke. As I set off I realised I hadn’t thought to have a look round the village yesterday. It was quite charming. I even wondered what the parochial albergue would have been like.

This was another day of not knowing where I would sleep that night. It does colour the way I walk as I am less likely to stop and enjoy. On the outskirts of the village there was a handy reminder of how far I still had left to walk.

I spent the first part of the walk chatting with George from Liverpool. It was strange how two people who walked at very different speeds kept meeting each other and often seemed to stay in the same places. George also seemed to stop at every cafe or bar for a coffee. As we walked together along a beautiful valley I couldn’t help feel sorry for the pilgrims who thought the Meseta was boring.

George and me parted company again before we reached the Arco San Anton. Its a very atmospheric place and one of the places which I had thought it would be good to stay. It has no electricity! It’s arch still spans the trail as it did centuries ago.

It was relatively easy walking though in places they had re-surfaced the trail with chippings which seemed to make it more difficult to walk. Soon we were in sight of Castrojeriz. A beautiful village built around the hill on which is a ruined castle. Yet another place I had thought of staying. On a Sunday morning the place seemed dead, not even a nice bar to stop for refreshment.

All that was open was the church of Santa Clara. I took the opportunity to pray and have a look around. It was more of a museum than a functioning church.

Once you are through the quiet streets of the village you go downhill and I was confronted by a very high and steep hill, the Alto de Mostelares. I had read so much stuff before I started this journey which talked about this part of the way (the Meseta) as being boring. It was flat and there were no mountains. I can however confirm that there were still hills and this was a significant one at a height of 900m. This was one of those hills where I had to stop frequently on the way up. The views were worth it though.

Thankfully there was a covered shelter at the top which had seats! A rest was just what I needed. and then going down the other side the view was different but every bit as impressive.

After some steady walking down the hill and across the plain, I had hoped to stay at a little Albergue – a little hermitage, the Ermita de San Nicolas. Sadly there was already a considerable number of pilgrims waiting to get in and I decided there were already going to be some who would be disappointed. Anxiety was beginning to creep in and I carried on with the hope that I could find a bed in the next village, Itero de la Vega. I crossed over a bridge which was the border into the region of Palencia. There was a policeman standing there beside his vehicle. He was armed too. On later did I wonder whether he would have been ok with me taking his photo.I walked through the village and went into the first Albergue I found and they had beds! What a relief.

It was a very basic place, it felt like it had fallen on hard times. It was an odd place, everything apart from the bed seemed to be on a donation basis, even the can of beer I had while waiting in the garden for check-in. I really didn’t have the energy to look around the village, I was so tired. After getting my shower and doing my laundry I lay on my bed and fell asleep. I woke up, with a headache.

The communal meal was a mixture, the food was uninspiring but the company was excellent. There was a soup followed by a stew. Sadly the soup felt like it was the thinned down liquid from the stew. I had given my donation for the meal in advance and I might have been tempted to reduce the amount! I chatted to several people I had met before including the ever present George from Liverpool.

I still wasn’t feeling so great so went to bed early. At least I had reserved a bed for tomorrow which made for a more restful sleep.

Saturday 6th May

Distance 31.5km / 19.5 miles

Burgos – Hontanas

Today was not a day to be up and about before dawn. The rules said you couldn’t leave until after breakfast. It was a simple shared breakfast of bread and jam with coffee. Staying in this parochial albergue was just what I needed. The accommodation was quite modern and very clean and the hospitality was second to none. Thinking back I recognised something about the seriousness of being a pilgrim, not an absence of joy, but more how this was not a task to be undertaken casually. It was 8.00am by the time I left. I had no place reserved to sleep that night and it was preying on my mind. I kept reminding myself of the promises of God but it dominated the walk today.

The walk out of Burgos was ok, though the route in the centre of the city wasn’t well marked. So it was through extensive suburbs and the University out into the countryside.

I got to the village of Rabe del Camino and stopped at a cafe for a drink and a comfort break. It was only mid morning and too soon to stop for the day so I continued on. This was the start of the area called the Meseta. Its mainly rolling hills with endless wheat fields, occasional villages and for some people very little else. Some pilgrims even get a bus and miss this section out altogether. Some guidebooks talk about this region being a challenge to the mind, the first part being a physical challenge, I’m not sure but I wasn’t going to miss it.

The village of Hornillos del Camino was my new goal for the day. It was getting hot and the trail went up and down, though it felt more up than down. I arrived at Hornillos full of hope only to discover that ‘there was no room at the inn’. Every albergue I came to had a Completo sign saying they were full. I tried a couple without signs but they were full too. It seemed the place was overrun with pilgrims, there were even backpacks lying in the streets. At this point I began to panic. I telephoned the municipal Albergue in the next village Hontanas and worked out with my rudimentary Spanish that they had space now but they couldn’t reserve anything. I realised all I could do was walk to the next village and hope for the best. It was a further 10.5km / 6 miles through hot and barren countryside. I was not mentally prepared for that.

I finally arrived in Hontanas, hot, sweaty, tired and aching all over. As I entered the village I saw the Albergue Juan de Yepes. I went in and stood in a queue at the reception/bar. I couldn’t quite believe it when they said they had beds and checked me in. It made me wonder whether I am really cut out for this faith thing.

After showering and doing my laundry I was sitting having a beer when I came across Cublin and his partner who I had met before Burgos. It was good to catch up. I also got talking with a lad from Liverpool. He had already walked the Camino five times so this was his sixth. He gave the reason for setting out as his feelings of despair, as a lifelong Everton supporter fearing that they might be relegated. I got into a surprisingly deep conversation with him and learnt about his poor upbringing with his father in prison most of the time and his embracing of Buddhism.

There was a lovely communal meal. While I eat a lot of paella I chatted to a couple of ladies from New Zealand and an Irish couple. The day ended on a high despite the challenges getting this far.

Friday 5th May 2023

Distance 13.7km / 8.5 miles

Cardenuela Rio Pico – Burgos

I had a disturbed night and woke up a bit disoriented. I found a old plastic chair on the edge of the Albergue and said Morning Prayer as the sky brightened. After a quick breakfast I set off on my own at 7.15, a bit late for me. It was not far to Burgos but then I wanted to stay at a parochial Albergue who didn’t take bookings and wanted to make sure of my place….. O me of little faith!

In the early morning it was cool and even though it was mostly road walking to begin with there was not much traffic. I walked through the village of Orbaneja then up over the big dual carriageway. I was in the zone, just walking and I could see various groups of pilgrims ahead of me. This was fine until I saw a group of pilgrims walking towards me, this got me mightily confused. I consulted the Wise Pilgrim App on my phone and discovered I had missed my turning onto the riverside path I wanted to use . So I turned around and backtracked towards the Dual Carriageway, still looking for pilgrims to follow. I nearly repeated my mistake as I nearly followed some pilgrims as they headed off beside a field. Just ahead of me were Sally and Alex together with another couple I had been chatting to last night coming towards me. I explained to them about the options and using my App persuade them of the best route which we eventually found though the signage wasn’t good.

What started out in error turned out for the best as we walked and talked together all the way into Burgos. We stopped for a second breakfast of coffee and tortilla at Castanares before we started on the quiet path beside the river.

It was a lovely route into the city missing out most of the suburbs and busy roads. Just before reaching the city centre I left them and turned off to find my preferred Albergue. Despite following really comprehensive directions I managed to walk past it several times before finally finding the entrance. The hostel was just part of a very imposing parish centre which also included a church. The pilgrim’s entrance is round the side.

Of course I was way too early, they weren’t going to open for hours. Just as I was pondering what to do I was approached by an old lady who recognising I was a pilgrim and wanting to stay unlocked the door of the Albergue and invited me to leave my backpack in the reception room. It was the only time I saw her but realised later that she was a legendary figure having devoted many many years of her life to the Albergue on a completely voluntary basis.

I went to a nearby bar – for a coffee and to use the toilet. It’s quite often really practical details which loom large in your mind when walking! It was a quiet place, only a few old men there and the ubiquitous television whose news output I could only half understand. I decided to have a look round the city while I waited for the Albergue to open. I wandered towards the Cathedral mainly taking in the parks and bridges along the river.

The city has an important Museum of Human Evolution which I didn’t get round to visit but this artwork in the park references that.

On my return to the Albergue there were half a dozen people queuing outside the Albergue so I waited with them. When it came time to open a volunteer came out and explained the strict rules of the Albergue, there was even a folder with them all written down. It was very strict, silence in the corridors and on the stairs, and doors locked at night with people leaving before breakfast forbidden. Benediction in the church was compulsory too. It was such a radical contrast to the chaos of last night, but I really appreciated the discipline. I really feel I have been led here as I wanted to re-charge my spiritual batteries.

After a very lengthy check-in I showered, shave and sorted my stuff then decided I would go to the cathedral. On the way I saw Dave, the young lad who I had met a few days previously. He had had to rest up for 3 days in Burgos to let his injuries heal enough for him to continue.

I was conflicted about visiting the Cathedral as I recognised that I was in tourist mode on this journey. It was almost as if I would feel guilty is I didn’t go and see the Cathedral. I paid my 5 Euros (reduced rate for pilgrims) and went in. I even downloaded the English Guide onto my phone. The whole place was overwhelming, such beautiful and exquisite architecture, treasures, and renaissance artwork. I walked around, saw the tomb of El Cid and so much more. I didn’t end up staying long though, I longed for some kind of spiritual connection which I just couldn’t get. I just can’t seem to play the part of a tourist.

On the way back to the Albergue I wandered around a non-touristy bit of the city which I seemed to appreciate more. I found a handy supermarket and stocked up on nuts and drinks, handily changing a 50 Euro note too. There was time to rest before Mass and Benediction in the church. Mass was as unintelligible as ever yet deeply meaningful. The Benediction for the pilgrims was wonderful, laying on of hands and a pat on the cheek! I was so pleased too to see April who I had shared such precious times with in Zabaldika was also staying.

We were ushered out of the church to the waiting communal dinner. Just salad and soup with a piece of fruit but all the more perfect in it’s simplicity. The Hospitalero explained that whatever was given the day before in voluntary donations paid for what the pilgrims received the following day. After the meal the few of us who were staying that night gathered round to share why we were walking the Camino. There were all sorts of reasons from the mundane to the deeply harrowing. It was a special time, a safe space where everyone felt able to open up about their deepest thoughts. After that we were told it was time for bed!

Thursday 4th May 2023

Distance 24.4km (15.2 miles)

Villafranca Montes de Oca – Cardenuela Riopico

I had read in the guidebook about the steep climb out of Villafranca but despite this I set out with renewed energy and purpose. I felt the benefit of my almost rest day. It was a fine morning and took the opportunity to take photos of the beautiful sunrise, and pause for breath.

I was walking through beautiful forest for the first part of this day. It was beautiful walking and I was amazed by the variety of wild flowers along the path. It was a day for birdsong too especially the cuckoos which have been a regular part of the soundscape over the past few days. Once I’d done my initial climb the walking was less demanding and I could relax more into my rhythm. Walking like this always gives me a chance to let my mind go free.

I paused at a civil war monument and began reflecting on the particular horrors of a civil war where you are not fighting and killing strangers but perhaps neighbours and those who in the past you would have considered friends.

It isn’t just a memorial, it marks the shallow graves of 300 who were shot and buried the. Such horror in the midst of beauty.

I then came to the village of San Juan de Ortega. If I had done a ‘complete’ stage yesterday this would have been my destination. There was a large church and attached parochial hostel. It all looked so idyllic. It made me think again about my lack of faith/trust in going for a booking yesterday rather than risk not getting a bed. Today though it was just a break for breakfast of a coffee and tortilla. As I left the village I passed another cross – which somehow calmed me.

The forest gradually changed to scrub as I walked on to Atapuerca.

The village of Atapuerca was quite a touristy place because of the nearby archaeological site of some of the earliest human remains in Europe. For me though it was just a short break for a cool drink before I tackled the next climb.

It was an interesting section of today’s walk. On the right of the picture above past the rudimentary barbed wire fence was a military training ground. So rather than the birdsong of earlier my accompaniment was gunfire.

The crosses on the way – of which there are very many, never cease to remind me that I’m not here just to walk, however enjoyable that is but that I am on a pilgrimage with a higher purpose.

Once I got over the brow of the hill I could see all the way to the City of Burgos in the distance. It felt weird that it wasn’t today’s destination but tomorrow’s. Just a shortish distance more to walk before my stop for the night.

This was a day when I was trusting God to lead me to the right place to stay. That kind of sounds more spiritual than it really is. The fact was I hadn’t booked anywhere so I would take what I could get. I was aiming for the Via Minera hostel at Cardanuela. I got there quite early so I was one of the first to arrive. This was I place where I felt my lack of Spanish language very keenly. Check-in was quite chaotic, first he wanted to wait for his father then he checked me in anyway. A few more people arrived and I was sitting on the terrace looking over the valley when the hospitalero beckoned me to follow him. My first thought was that there was something wrong but he ushered me into the dining room where his wife and his father were eating and made me a sandwich with some fresh bread and the meat which they were eating. I gathered that it was venison which had been hunted locally. It seemed that no-one else got this treatment and I felt very privileged at this random act of hospitality and kindness.

I had signed up for dinner and breakfast. The communal dinner was very convivial and got chatting with other pilgrims. I met some young French guys who weren’t staying at the Albergue but sleeping out in the open as they journeyed. The chat continued afterwards. I got talking with George from Liverpool and a couple from Perth, Australia as well as renewing my acquaintance with Alex and Sally from New Zealand. I also met a lovely 70 year old who I first saw doing yoga stretches which blew my mind.

Wednesday 3rd May 2023

Distance 12 km (7.45 ml) Ascent approx 900m

Belorado – Villafranca Montes de Oca

Today is my day of rest, though I won’t be taking the whole day off, just walking to the next ALbergue at Villafranca Montes de Oca. The day started out as normal with Morning Prayer in the quiestness and peace of the breaking dawn but as I set off things were really flat, both in terrain and in mood.

Not quite sure why my mood was flat, I was rested, I had had a great stay in a hostel with friendly and interesting people and even a swimming pool. I think it was something to do with feeling a bit like I wasn’t doing the pilgrimage I was expecting maybe. I wasn’t really thinking about getting to Santiago and I even started to wonder what I was doing so far.

I had to remind myself that if the Camino is a metaphor for life then there are days when there isn’t anything exciting happening. I began to think about home then forced my thinking to be present in the the moment on the Way.

I stopped for a coffee and a croissant as much to pass the time as to have breakfast and I had a second break further on. The scenery was its beautiful self.

I soon came off the hill down into the valley and before 10.30 I had arrived at the village where I was stopping. As I arrived I caught up with Dave who I had met yesterday. He was obviously suffering. WE stopped at a bar at the entrance to the village and had coffee and a snack and a chat. It sounds terrible but It encouraged me to think that physically I was managing so well in contrast to someone much younger even though I discovered he was in his 40s. I must be getting old.

We parted and I walked uphill through the village to the Albergue San Anton Abad I had booked. It was attached to a posh hotel and it was weird checking in a the hotel reception. As always I was a bit early and sat in the sunshine drinking a very expensive Coca Cola. After I had found my bunk and showered and done my laundry I settled down to quite deliberately rest. I did see Alex and Sally from New Zealand too, it seemed quite normal now to meet people over and over again at different places.

I had time today to do some thinking. Whilst my natural inclination was to keep walking I wanted to pace myself and give myself a chance to really discover the nature of my pilgrimage. I realised that part of why I had stopped here though was not finding a place to stay at the next village San Juan de Ortega. I reasoned that today was the second ‘seventh’ day of my walk and it should be a day of rest.

I certainly don’t want to push myself too far but somehow I think the time has come to return to a more raw trust in God that he will guide and provide. I have had so many promises in the course of Morning Prayer perhaps I need to set aside my last few days of booking. Booking does give me confidence but I want this trust thing to be part of my pilgrimage. I don’t want it to turn into just a walk.

Tuesday 2nd May 2023

Distance 22.4km (13.9 ml) Total Ascent 300m (984 ft)

Santo Domingo de la Calzada – Belorado

No one else in the dorm seemed to be leaving early which was a novelty, so I dragged everything out to the lounge and packed my bag there. Soon I was ready to head out. The first order of business was to find a quiet place to say Morning Prayer. Thankfully there weren’t many people around at that time in the morning so I found a bench in one of the squares. It was cold!

I set off out of the town. Fairly flat going to start with with a spectacular sunrise. I did put my gloves on when I stopped as for the first time I was feeling the early morning cold.

The trail went up into the hills which thankfully were not too steep where I passed this rather impressive cross.

The first village I came to was Granon where I was hoping to find some breakfast. There was a food truck at the entrance to the village but it looked really busy so I continued through the village expecting there to be a bar open – but there wasn’t!

I did notice a sign for Panaderia Jesus – so I felt I had to patronize Jesus’ bakery. It was kind of weird though as there wasn’t a shop front, you just went in the front door and through to the back of the house. I ended up buying two napoletanas (pain au chocolat) and found a handy bench on the way out of the village to eat them.

There were a series of small villages as I walked up and down hills. Points of interest were the border with a new province, in this case Castile and Leon

and the village where Santo Domingo was born.

I didn’t stop until I reached Villamajor del Rio. Here was a handy truck stop kind of place where I stopped. By this time it had warmed up to the days normal heat so the refreshment was very welcome. The rest of today’s journey was on tracks beside the busy road in the hot sun.

While I was walking this seemingly endless trail, it was almost as if I could fall asleep. It was very relaxing walking, the only changes were the gradients which weren’t severe enough to demand much thought.

Eventually I arrived at Belorado where I had a booking at the Albergue Quatro Cantones. I had a bit of time to kill before it opened so went to find some refreshment. I had an Aquarius drink and some Tapas at a bar in the main square which had some shade.

When it was time to join the check-in queue it was back to the Albergue. Who should I see in there was the Korean Lady and her son.

This was a private Albergue and it was well appointed and I was pleased to discover that the Hospitalera who was checking us in had lived on Tyneside for three years!. There was eveb a swimming pool in the garden so after doing my chores I had a lovely swim and relaxed on a poolside lounger. It wasn’t all hardship on the Camino!

After my rest I went for a look around the town. I noticed interesting ‘artwork’

After a brief visit to the supermercado, I then went into the church and took a moment to pray and reflect. It was great to feel grounded after my experience in the Cathedral yesterday.

I had booked for the communal dinner and ended up on a table with a British lad who was living in Berlin and a couple from Florida. It was great to meet people like this who were on the same journey though for very different reasons.

The British lad, Dave had started the same day as me and I was surprised that he hadn’t raced ahead as he was much younger. he explained he would do long, fast days and take longer breaks. It transpired that he had ended up with shin splints and was struggling.

He spoke about never being bored too which reminded me of my intention to walk in the present. I always found something to look at and maintain my interest.

Monday 1st May 2023

Distance 30.8km (19.1 ml)

Ventosa – Santo Domingo de la Calzada

I knew today was going to be a longer day, so I was up and out as early as possible. It wasn’t yet light enough to see where I was walking so I took the time to sit in the bus shelter on the edge of the village and say Morning Prayer. Apart from the odd passing pilgrim it was so quiet and I could see the sky brightening over the valley towards the east.

I started walking about 6.45 first downhill then a longer uphill walk. There was a handy viewpoint as I got to the top of the hill where I caught one of the most beautiful sunrises of my journey.

This was one of those solitary days in contrast to yesterday. I walked on my own all day. This isn’t a negative thing – it leaves plenty of time to let my mind wander. Over the last few months and especially on this pilgrimage, the internal dialogue I have in my head when on my own increasingly involves God. Is this prayer? The scenery was wide and expansive with vineyards as far as the eye could see.

My initial plan was to stop in Najera for some breakfast. I had heard of how spectacular the cliffs behind the town looked in the early morning sunshine but today the clouds got in the way.

The town centre was really attractive and dressed up like a medieval theme park as there was a festival happening this weekend. However I was there too early in the day and apart from a few people setting up their stalls it was very quiet. The one bar I found open was packed full so I walked through the town and sat on a bench and eat some of the food I had stashed in my backpack for breakfast. I did say hello to the Korean woman and her son I had met yesterday. It was then up the hill and through more vineyards.

I stopped at the next village of Azofra, once again on a hilltop and stopped to change socks fill up my water and get something to eat.

After that it was rolling hills and wide, wide landscapes with the road seemingly going on forever. It was getting hotter and hotter too.

The next village I came to was very different to the older ones I normally saw. It seemed to comprise of unfinished housing developments in the midst of scrub and fields with incongruously a posh golf club. There wasn’t much there to tempt me to stop so on I went.

There is something different about walking where you can see your path going on and on into the distance. Eventually I came over the brow of a hill and saw my destination for today in the distance. The town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. What a welcome sight it was!

As always it still took ages to get into the centre of town past agricultural and industrial units and along the road.

I checked into the Albergue which to my surprise was not full despite this being a holiday weekend. So much for my bed anxiety! It was very big and had some of the best facilities I had experienced so far with a lovely lounge area.

After my customary ablutions, laundry and siesta I went out to have a look around and to get something to eat.

The cathedral was the obvious place to start. There was a five euro charge for entry which gave me access to a couple more museums. I went into the church but felt overwhelmed by groups of tourists. I downloaded the guide to my phone and was impressed by the history and the beauty but I felt out of place. My pilgrimage journey somehow didn’t allow room in my mind just to be a tourist and I didn’t spend long there. I did eventually find a spot for a brief moment of prayer.

Whilst I was struggling with being a tourist I did find an interesting quote in the attached museum which was full of statues of the Virgin Mary and various Saints.

VII Church in Heaven
We are all pilgrims who are walking towards the House of God, Eternal Life.
The Virgin Mary is our Mother and takes care of us at all times.
Saints in addition to advocating on behalf of us, are models of a religious life that
encourage us on our walk.

I didn’t bother with the other museums and wandered around the town centre with its attractive squares and settled on a bar where I had some pizza and beer.

While I was sitting eating a small procession of young women dressed in traditional costume passed by. It was preceded by some drummers. I had heard that the festival of Santo Domingo was starting but if this was it, it felt somewhat underwhelming. I think I was a week early for the main event.

I went back to the Albergue to discover the dorm I was in was less than half full which meant there was no one in the bunk above me. I was able to book a bed for tomorrow night so I settled down to a good night’s sleep.

Sunday 30th April 2023

Distance 18.4km (11.4 ml)

Logrono – Ventosa

It was a pleasant walk out of Logrono. There were few people around as I left even though I was a bit later than sometimes as the Albergue provided breakfast. I decided there were three groups of people in evidence, those revellers who hadn’t yet gone to bed after their nocturnal partying, the street cleaners hosing down the streets because of last night’s partying and pilgrims like me who’d had an early night.

As with so many of the villages, towns and cities I walked through there were apart from the way markers so many things like sculptures which highlighted the importance they attach to the Camino de Santiago.

The trail took us through and urban park and down the hill through a flat valley. I looked back to see the sun rising through the clouds.

Then it was up a slight incline through a beautiful wooded nature park surrounding a large reservoir.

This was the first and last time I passed a large body of water like this. It was then out into the fields again with vineyard after vineyard, often labelled with the variety.

It was around here I met a couple from New Zealand, Alex and Sally. We walked together for a couple of hours until we got to Navarrete. Time passed so quickly when in conversation. I was persuaded to have my photo taken. As may be obvious by now I am not into selfies.

Conversations are easy on the Camino and it was a joy to share with others.

Once I got to Navarrete I said farewell to Alex and Sally and stopped in the square opposite the village church and had some bread and cheese. I then sorted out my feet changed my socks and the dressing on my heel which was protecting where there had been a blister.

It was an undemanding trail from here to Ventosa where I was staying through endless vineyards with their distinctive red soil. As I got near to the village which was on the top of a hill as usual there were a series of artworks beside the trail.

They were interesting but I have yet to do some research about their meaning. As I reached the edge of the village I looked back at the way I had come.

As usual I had arrived before the Albergue was open so had a beer and watched the world (of pilgrims) go by. I checked in got myself sorted then went for a look around the village before having a nap. The Albergue was a commercial one, with nice bunk beds in small rooms with a nice bathroom. Looking back there were so many days I seemed to spend more of my day resting than walking. I met a lovely British couple who were doing part of the Camino Frances. They told me how they had done a lot of work setting up the Saint James Way in England from Reading to Southampton. To make the day even better I got an email confirming my reservation for the following night. I met a Korean woman walking with her son who insisted I have some orange juice as I passed through the kitchen, just another random act of kindness. There is a sense of some special connection between fellow pilgrims. We were to meet again for several more days.

I decided today would be a day for a pilgrim meal. As I was walking to the restaurant I met the British couple and Alex and Sally. We sat down and had our meal together. It was great to share this time with strangers who had become temporary friends. All in all a great day.

Saturday 29th April 2023

Distance 9.4km (5.8 ml)

Viana – Logrono

I felt a sense of peace as I got up this morning. Gone was the anxiety of yesterday. I packed up and went outside to find somewhere quiet to pray. I found a perch at the doorway of the ruined church which was out of the way. I debated whether to go to a bar for breakfast but in any event decided to press on.

I walked down out of the town onto the valley plain past allotments then through fields, vineyards and occasional woodland. I looked back towards Viana, the sun was just rising and it was such a peaceful start to the day.

It was pleasant flat walking in the cool of the morning. When I saw the sign beside the road telling me I was leaving the province of Navarra and entering La Rioja I felt like I was making progress.

Once I negotiated the one hill on today’s walk my destination of Logrono came into sight.

Walking past the allotments as I got closer to the city made me want to get back to my own neglected garden.

As I got closer I passed by drifts of these tree seeds which looked like snow.

Then over the imposing bridge into the city.

I had managed to arrive at my destination by 9.15am! The first thing I did was check out where my preferred Albergue was, in this case the parochial hostel of Santiago el Real. I had several hours to make use of before it opened so I set off to have a look round the city and importantly to find some food. In cities I did use Google maps on my phone to find where I was and to look for essential things like supermarkets, pharmacies and cash machines.

I had a quick look inside the church which the Albergue was part of and was impressed by the best Easter Garden I had seen.

As I walked around the streets which were just beginning to come alive I noticed some men on a park bench drinking cans. Who they were I don’t know but it’s familiarity highlighted the fact that this was a normal modern city with all its different people. This was the real world outside of my pilgrim bubble.

I found an impressively big supermarket and got bread, cheese, ham and fruit and sat down on a park bench in the morning sun for a leisurely brunch. After that I found the Cathedral and had a quick look around but they were busy preparing for a wedding so I didn’t linger inside. I was sitting outside a bit later when I noticed the wedding guests arriving, dressed to the nines, it was definitely a posh wedding. The great and the good arrived including people in uniform and a few policemen. A couple of posh cars later and the groom and then the bride went into the church. It was great to see people enjoying the good things of life but I felt the contrast between my scruffy appearance and my current pilgrim life. People watching is something I love to do.

There was plenty of beautiful architecture and historical stuff. Indeed I gathered that there was some kind of cultural festival which was highlighting this and combining the old with lots of interesting art installations. Today I felt more at ease with city life.

This installation which was an interpretation of a fountain had an information board in Spanish and in English. Sadly the description didn’t seem to help with the meaning at all. Perhaps its best to just enjoy artwork without trying to understand the meaning. Eventually I decided I could go back to the Albergue and see if there was a queue which indeed there was.

One of the great things about the queue was the opportunity to meet other pilgrims. Today’s highlight was meeting Tony and his daughter Hannah from British Columbia and Paul from Manchester. I had noticed Tony and Hannah at the pilgrims Mass the previous evening in Viana. I somehow made a particular connection with Tony as our conversation moved beyond the usual sharing of pilgrim experiences to matters of faith.

After checking in and doing my laundry I went back into the city with my new friends who wanted to visit the supermarket and were interested in checking out the artworks. Paul and I decided we would get a bottle of wine since we were in this famous wine region of La Rioja. Sadly I never got to sample it as I never got the opportunity after getting back to the Albergue.

There were other kinds of artwork around the city. This one I found particularly impressive.

I took some time to work out where I was going tomorrow. The ‘normal’ stage was over 28km to Najera. That was more than I wanted to do and when looking around I found I could book a bed at The Albergue San Saturnino in Ventosa just over 18km way. That was a weight off my mind.

There was a communal meal that evening, a simple one of pasta salad and a yoghurt, the ubiquitous bread and wine with the added touch of a Ferrero Rocher chocolate. The communal meals are great, they are on a donation basis, usually very simple but somehow all the more precious for that. It was very convivial with a mixture of people from all over the world speaking different languages.

After the meal we were led downstairs, through the priests entrance to the church to the choir stalls at the back. Once we were all seated there were a few prayers then a candle was passed from person to person and those who wanted to could briefly share something of why they were on the Camino. It was a very special and spiritual moment.

We then had out pilgrim’s passport stamped and headed back to the Albergue because it was getting past our bed time.

It was however the noisiest night I had experienced; not just the snoring in the room but the party-goers passing the open window most of the night. I certainly woke at 3.30am thinking it was daytime with the noise outside. It’s all part of the joy of city life.

Friday 28th April 2023

Distance 18.4km (11.4 ml). Total ascent 300m ( 984 ft)

Los Arcos – Viana

I woke early to the sound of pilgrims getting ready for an early start – it seemed like anytime after 5.00am was a good time. For many people they will be looking at the guidebook stage and planning to walk the 27.8km to the city of Logrono. I am determined to wait until is light so at the moment 7.00am is just about right. Today’s stage for me is just 18 km to the town of Viana.

I doesn’t seem to matter how much encouragement I had yesterday, I woke up anxious about finding a place to stay. This anxiety is not based on my experience, in the few days I have been walking I have never had a problem. I got up and went out into the garden of the Albergue and found a quiet bench away from anyone else to say Morning Prayer. Not for the first time as I read the Psalms I think God has got a sense of humour.

Some went astray in desert wastes
and found no path to a city to dwell in,
Hungry and thirsty,
their soul was fainting within them.
So they cried to the Lord in their trouble
and he delivered them from their distress.
He set their feet on the right way
till they came to a city to dwell in.

Psalm 107

Today was another day of hills and valleys though I think maybe I was just beginning to get used to it. Apart from the ubiquitous views there were a couple of particular points of interest. Thinking about it now I see them as places of prayer. One the modern one where pilgrims have tied ribbons onto the trees beside the path, though it’s an age old practice.

Later at the highest point of today’s walk – the hermitage of Nuestra Senora del Poyo. It wasn’t open but sat outside, had a rest and considered how the Virgin might be looking after me on my pilgrimage as promised on the first night at Roncesvalles. I still don’t get it.

As always the views are spectacular even if it does mean more up and down.

Throughout my morning’s walk I still couldn’t get out of my head the thought of not finding a bed for the night. It provoked an internal dialogue all the way. I consciously took more breaks rather than powering on, albeit short ones. I tried to be present in my walking rather than focussing solely on reaching my destination.

I thought about how many say that ‘the Camino is a metaphor for life’. I was musing about how often we live by not doing anything until we are sure of the end result and that there is something to be said by living in the moment.

Eventually the town of Viana came into view, on top of another hill of course. Once through the outskirts it was up the very steep climb to the historic centre. What a revelation. I was entranced, not by the medieval architecture but by the vibe. Lots of pilgrims but also lots of locals and even a street market. Although the only street photo I seem to have looks a bit deserted!

When I walked through the town and arrived at the municipal albergue – it was all so simple. Just a few people queuing and there was no problem at all. What was I worrying about?

After checking in checked out the ruined church opposite the Albergue and the terraced garden at the end of the lane.

As I was sitting on a bench looking at the view of tomorrow’s walk I met the German lad I had been speaking to yesterday. He had decided to stay in a hotel tonight. He too was not sure where to stay tomorrow. After he left I consulted my guide boo. I set my heart on the parochial hostel in Logrono and I booked a hostel for the following night in Ventosa. Somehow that took the pressure off and felt able to relax.

I wandered around the town a bit but most things were shut now for ‘siesta’ so I sat and read for a while. When things were opening up again I picked up some more stuff for blisters at a pharmacy and went for a pilgrim’s meal I had noticed earlier. I sat at a table in the afternoon sun watching the world go by.

The main church opposite was open so I went in to have a look and to say a quiet prayer. As always Saint James was there, though since I was walking on his way it is to be expected.

As I came out I noticed the tomb of Cesare Borgia, illegitimate son of the Borgia Pope Alexander VI who was killed defending Viana in 1507 after being banished. (Just in case it comes up in a pub quiz!)

I realised the Mass was starting soon so I went back in. The priest beckoned me into a side chapel with a supersize crucifix at the front. Around the sides were huge music books. I tried following the Mass on my App but it was still a struggle. After Mass the handful of us who were pilgrims went down to the front. The priest read the prayer I recognised from Los Arcos then said a few words translated by his assistant. He then laid hands and prayed with each of us individually. It was lovely.

Then it was back to the Albergue with a wonderful feeling of blessing.

Thursday 27th April 2023

Distance 21.5km (13.4 ml). Total Ascent 370m (1213 ft)

Estella – Los Arcos

I was up showered and ready before it was light. I said Morning Prayer in the quiet of my room then once I could see where I was walking I was off. My day off had been a welcome reset of my purpose and enthusiasm. As I left the town it was pleasant uphill walking in the cool of the morning. I hadn’t been walking too long before I came across the famous wine fountain.

I was in two minds whether to try it, especially at quarter past seven in the morning, but in the end why not. I had a mouthful of mediocre red wine from the tap and I had ticked a Camino box. Opposite was the remains of the monastery which started the tradition before the modern wine producer took on the tradition.

As we gathered round the wine fountain – I was chatting to other pilgrims and we walked on for a while until we reached a fork in the path. At several places along the trail there are alternative routes but it’s not always straightforward when making a decision.

I continued on the path I had chosen and soon the faster walkers pulled away and left me on my own. The walking was up and down as normal but not too taxing and the weather was perfect. I ws one of those days where the views were just lined up one after the other.

As I approached Azqueta, the first village of the day there was a very picturesque castle on top of a conical hill. I must admit my first thought was, ‘I’m glad we don’t have to climb up there.’

Once through the village the views just kept coming.

The fields of wheat and yellow flowered plants gave way to more vineyards.

After going through the village of Villamayor de Montjardin and down into the down into the next valley I was looking out for a promised food truck. Thankfully it was there so got some refreshments. I did muse about the much higher prices charged at these things but reckoned they needed the premium for them to drive out to the middle of nowhere to help pilgrims. Not long after this there was a man who had a guitar but I passed by before he played and expected some money.

All through today’s walk I was still thinking about my decision not to book accommodation. I must admit I was struggling with this. I knew that it was possible to find a bed each day but walking with all this in my head sometimes stopped me from relaxing and enjoying the walk.

Finally along a valley then over a small hill and today’s destination was in sight. I had checked out what I thought was the best Albergue, Isaac Santiago, and walked through the town to the other side. It wasn’t open when I arrived but the queue was not too long to I could kind of relax, take off my boots and wait for check in.

Check in was very slow when it started and unusually I was allocated a top bunk. There was only 4 in the room so it wasn’t too bad. I did my normal housekeeping and then sat around chatting to a few other pilgrims. There was a couple from New Zealand I had met before and a young German guy. We were discussing booking or not booking and the New Zealand couple were panicking about not having anywhere to sleep, though they eventually got somewhere for the following night. All this didn’t help me to remain calm though.

I decided I would have walk around the town and check out the shops to get some food.

I wandered around and spent some time people watching from a shady bench. After a trip back to the Albergue to check if my washing had dried, to stash my shopping and have a rest and a read. I went back into the town when it was time for the Pilgrim Mass and Blessing in the church.

I have never seen such an over the top decorated church. Every surface was covered in baroque gilt sculptures and wall paintings. When I got there there were already quite a few locals there in the middle of some Marian devotion. (Rosary maybe?) I just sat and drank in the peaceful atmosphere.

When the Mass started I was trying to follow it using an App on my phone but I still struggled as everything was said so quickly in Spanish. Afterwards all the pilgrims were invited to the fron and after the priest blessed us each were given a small prayer card in our own language.

Prayer of the Pilgrims

Lord, you who recalled your servant Abraham out of
the town Ur in Chaldea and who watched over him
during all his wanderings; you who guided the Jewish
people through the desert; we also query to watch
your present servants, who for the love of your name,
make a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.
Be for us,
a companion on our journey
the guide on our intersections
the strengthening during fatigue
the fortress in danger
the resource on our itinerary
the shadow in our heat
the light in our darkness
the consolation during dejection
and the power of our intention
so that we under your guidance, safely
and unhurt, may reach the end of our journey
and strengthened with gratitude
and power, secure and filled with
happiness may join our home.
For Jesus Christ, Our Lord, Amen

Apostle James, pray for us.
Holy Virgin, pray for us.

There always seems to be encouragement when you need it.

Wednesday 26th April 2023

Distance 0km ( 0 ml). Total Ascent A load of steps up to the church)

Estella

I slept well and had a lie in. It was a real luxury not having to get up and out . I took the opportunity to empty my backpack and re-pack everything in its proper place and gather my laundry together. I decided I would use the hotel’s laundry service for a few Euros and make the most of this day off.

I walked into town to have a leisurely look around. Estella was a lovely place. I was staying in the more modern bit of the town, with retail units and modern apartment blocks but once I strolled down the hill over the river into the older part it was quite charming.

The main town was full of the archetypal narrow streets with apartments and balconies with washing strung up. It occurred to me that no one worried about their underwear being on show.

I got coffee and a pastry for breakfast. It was good to be around when there were normal Spanish people out and about. There were a variety of shops from normal to posh.

I found the church of San Pedro de la Rua up load of steps. Apparently there is a lift somewhere but I never saw it.

It was such a peaceful place. I took the opportunity to sit for a while and pray.

I felt grounded again, my purpose renewed and a new desire that God would help me let go of my fears and trust him. I felt such a deep sense of gratitude that I had the chance to make this pilgrimage. I did some more exploration around the town.

I went back to the hotel, had a lie down in the heat of the afternoon and caught up with my journal writing.. I then went to get some stuff at the big supermarket across the road. The evening came and I decided to return to the square. This time I didn’t fancy a meal and just indulged in unhealthy snacks instead. Then back to the hotel ready for a quiet night’s sleep and an early start tomorrow.

Tuesday 25th April 2023

Distance 21.9km (13.6 ml). Total Ascent 300m (984 ft)

Puente La Reina – Estella

I had a good sleep and woke up refreshed. I got up about 6am and was by no means the first. I was out of the Albergue as dawn was breaking and found a nice quiet spot across the road to say Morning Prayer, sitting on the base of an old stone cross which seemed appropriate. Then it was a short walk through the town to go over the actual bridge which gives its name to the town. I passed a couple of bars which were serving breakfast but decided to press on.

I had been hoping for some social interaction and just as I was walking across the bridge someone I had met before stopped for a brief chat so that felt good.

The walk started by walking up the valley. It was pleasantly flat and easy walking but I shouldn’t have been lulled into a false sense of security.

Just round the corner was a steep climb through a beautiful wooded valley, which was mercifully quite short, followed by a fairly steep descent into the next valley. This was the theme of today’s stage – up and down. There were fields of wheat and what I assume was mustard or oilseed rape.

I stopped at the village of Maneru and had my preferred breakfast of coffee and a napoletana (pain au chocolat) sitting at a table outside watching the pilgrims pass by. Who should appear but the man who was in the same dormitory as me at Saint Jean Pied de Port. I had met him again half way up the Pyranees but never expected to meet again. We shared some experiences of the past few days and then off I went again. It was more up and down to another hilltop village of Cirauqui.

These villages had retained a lot of their medieval charm and quaint cobbled streets albeit a bit on the steep side.

It was more steep ups and downs. I was concentrating on getting up the hills and the physical challenge of the day, only to realise I had crossed an authentic Roman bridge. The weather was getting hotter and hotter and today there didn’t seem to be much shade.

Why is it that the last two or three kilometres at the end of the walk are twice as long as the ones at the beginning of the day? As I was walking I decided it was a week since I had started and maybe resting on the seventh day would be a good idea. I knew I had plenty of time so wasn’t under any pressure. My next destination, the town of Estella seemed like a good place for a day off.

I got to Estella in good time to check in to the Parochial Albergue of Saint Miguel. It was a tiny Albergue and the bunk beds had almost no room between them. I started getting my stuff out of my backpack then I thought I should book a room for the following night. I found a cheap hotel on Booking.com and booked online. It was then I suddenly felt overwhelmed by being surrounded by strangers, being crowded and anxious and on impulse booked the room for tonight, then packed up again and checked out!

I don’t know what it was unless it was just the accumulation of the experiences and stresses of the past few days. Whatever it was I walked through the town to my hotel room with en-suite bathroom and a bed with proper mattress and sheets. I did feel a tinge of guilt that I had chickened out but after a lovely shower and a siesta on my comfortable bed I felt a lot better.

After my nap I walked back into the town and had a look round. It had some really interesting buildings and charming streets.

I ended up in the main square and felt confident enough to sit and order a meal and have a well deserved (I thought so!) beer.

It was good to watch the world go by. There were plenty of pilgrims around so I still felt part of the Camino.

After my meal I went back to my hotel and after reading for a while I drifted off to sleep.

Monday 24th April 2023

Distance 23.8km (14.8 ml). Total Elevation 470m (1542 ft)

Pamplona – Puente La Reina

I finally got up at 6am. It seemed a thing that people start getting up anytime after 5am, some of whom start walking in the dark. Apparently the man in the bunk underneath me got up at 4.30am for a shower to beat the rush! I set off through the deserted streets of the city with a totally transformed mood. I was feeling positive and enthusiastic. I got as far as the park I had noticed yesterday and sat on a bench in the half light to say Morning Prayer. The sky began to brighten and then it was time for me to set off in earnest .. as far as a Panaderia (Bakery) for a coffee and a lovely ham and cheese croissant.

It was great to have two poles again and the going was easy to start with, leading out through parkland towards the first incline of the day. I walked beside the road for a while to the village of Cizur Minor.

Once over the brow of the village the first goal of the day came into view., the long climb up and over the Alto del Perdon with it’s wind turbines. It was a beautiful morning, such a pleasure to walk though the lush fields.

As I passed beside fields of young wheat I began thinking of and then singing an Easter Carol I had been reminded of when I was in Zabaldika. I did check to make sure no other pilgrims were in earshot though, I didn’t want to be thought of as too odd.

Now the green blade rises from the buried grain
Wheat that in the dark earth many days has lain;
Love lives again, that with the dead has been;
Love is come again like wheat that springeth green.

In the grave they laid Him, love who men had slain,
Thinking that never He would wake again,
Laid in the earth like grain that sleeps unseen;
Love is come again like wheat that springeth green.

Forth He came at Easter, like the risen grain,
He that for three days with the dead had lain;
Quick from the dead, my risen Lord is seen,
Love is come again like wheat that springeth green.

When our hearts are wintry, grieving, or in pain,
Thy touch can call us back to life again,
Fields of our hearts that dead and bare have been;
Love is come again like wheat that springeth green.

This is the version I remember from an album I had back in 1972.

Taking a photo of the view behind was always a good excuse for a rest as the way got steeper. A Canadian woman caught up to me and we walked and chatted together for a while but she was a faster walker than me so we parted company. There were many of these types of encounters on the way.

The little village of Zariquiegui came into view, and no I don’t know how to pronounce it! This was a good opportunity to get a drink and a snack and take a moment in the village church to pause and pray. It was onward and upward though.

Once at the top you see the iconic metal artwork representing pilgrims through the ages. It was put up by the power company when they built the wind turbines. There is an inscription on one of the figures,

Where the way of the wind crosses the way of the stars

Poetry as public relations? They seem to have a different relationship with onshore wind turbines than we do in this country. Reaching the summit was a good time for a break, as it was mainly downhill from here to my destination for the day of Puente la Reina. It wasn’t a long break though as in the back of my mind I knew that I hadn’t booked my accommodation for that night and there was always this itch to keep walking and make sure I had a bed. I kept telling myself that God would provide but my brain wasn’t listening. The views were spectacular.

As I left to start the descent I wanted to take a moment to visit a memorial to the locals who were killed during the Spanish Civil War. In the midst of medieval history it was good to think about more recent tragedies. A central stone is surrounded by smaller stones for each of the local villages. I paused for some moments of reflection. I asked myself if there was a reason they raised it here on the ‘Alto del Perdon’, the Mount of Forgiveness.

I was soon back to concentrating on the descent, which was steep and difficult with lots of loose stones and pebbles. I was relying on my poles.

I was glad when I was back on more level and gentle farm tracks again. As I walked I really loved the wild flowers beside the path.

As I passed through the villages of Uterga and Muruzabal I had to decide whether I would take a detour and visit the beautiful 12th Century church of Santa Maria de Eunate. It had been on my list of places I wanted to visit but in the end my destination was pulling me on and I didn’t want to detour to what might be just a tourist trap.

Eventually after plenty of more minor ups and downs and passing by a whole load of allotments I arrived at the Albergue Padres Reparadores. As would happen again and again, I needn’t have been anxious, I could have taken my time and still had a bed for the night.

The first order of business after checking in, was to shower and do my laundry. The beds were noisy but in cubicles of four in a smaller room which was a change from last night. As I was seen as old I got a bottom bunk and didn’t feel at all guilty when two French ladies turned up later and were allocated top bunks.

I had a wander round town and visited two churches which were quite sublime.

After returning to the Albergue for a rest, I ventured out again once the supermarket was open to get some supplies for my evening meal. After that I read for a while and had an early night.

Zabaldika – Pamplona

Today started on a high physically, mentally and spiritually. I woke up, well rested at the Albergue at Zabaldika perched high on the side of the river valley. The weather was fine and I only had a short walk planned into the city of Pamplona. I too was still enjoying the spiritual high of the love and peace of yesterday. I was able to say Morning Prayer in the porch of the church, watching dawn break over the valley. I was brought to tears by the words of Psalm 23

The Lord is my shepherd
therefore can I lack nothing.
He makes me lie down in green pastures
and leads me beside still waters.
He shall refresh my soul
and guide me in the paths of righteousness for his names sake.

All is well on the Camino. It was good to set out again that morning, the sun began to shine and the birds were singing. Even having one walking pole wasn’t stressing me at all.

The trail was good, and fairly easy going, despite the occasional muddy patch left over from yesterday and it was good to have wonderful views over the valley. It didn’t seem long before I came to the next landmark. The bridge and church with it’s adjoining Albergue at La Trinidad de Arre. I took the opportunity to go into the church and have a moment of quiet and a short prayer.

This town was the first I had passed through and the only real signs of life on this Sunday morning were those preparing for some kind of community road race. From here it blends into the outskirts of Pamplona and it was pavement walking from now on.

The way they prune the trees along streets and in squares to provide shade in the summer makes it quite different. There were moments closer to the city centre when you were walking beside the river.

Once across the bridge the impressive city walls came into view and then just round the corner was the gate into the city proper.

I arrived in the city about 9.45 to discover it was very quiet. It was a Sunday morning I suppose.

The first thing I wanted to do was replace my broken walking pole. Whilst I was managing with just one it wasn’t ideal and I have come to rely on using my poles when walking long distances. Thankfully there was a well stocked shop catering for pilgrims which was open and I was soon sorted.

I checked out the Albergue where I planned to stay and realised people had already started queuing even though it didn’t open for another couple of hours. I thought I might as well join the queue as I had plenty of time to have a look round and it wanted to offload my backpack and get settled before exploring.

Queuing at Albergues is a great social experience. Everyone is friendly and ready to chat and share experiences. A French guy asked us to look after his pack whilst he went for coffee. On his return I did the same. It assumes a level of trust which was really refreshing. Of course I carried my passport, money and phone on me all the time. I found a nearby cafe and got a coffee and was listening to the background music when what should i hear but “I’m gonna be” (500 miles) by the Proclaimers. I thought this was a great encouragement.

When I returned the the queue I got chatting to a man from Kinloss in Scotland who was walking for charity. I admired his fitness and resilience, even if it was a little overwhelming. He had already walked other long distance trails including the Camino once before and was around the same age as me. I think I felt somewhat ‘diminished’ in comparison which looking back on it now as I write this in July after finishing my journey was quite wrong.

Once the Albergue opened I got my bunk, which unusually was a top one this time. The bunk did sway a lot when I was climbing up which was a bit disconcerting. It was just one huge space which had been subdivided inside, I decided an apt description of this would be ‘ A pilgrim storage unit’. I got my stuff sorted, left my power bank charging and wandered off for a look around the city. It was completely different now, it was packed with people, eating and drinking at the pavement bars and then in one of the squares I caught the tail end of some kind of traditional folk event.

On one level it was great but I was somewhat overwhelmed by the crowds and the noise. I think it was the contrast with the peace and tranquillity of yesterday at Zabaldika. I wasn’t sure I liked cities and I felt isolated with my poor Spanish and unfamiliarity with the culture. I ended up with a ham and cheese baguette with tomato sauce.

There were some quieter bits of the city.

When I returned to the Albergue I couldn’t find my power bank. I had a good look but came to the conclusion someone had taken it. My already fragile mood plummeted further. I wrote in my journal that I had been ” stupidly naive” to trust pilgrims. It was like yesterday and the words of Psalm 23 that morning had never happened. I moped around trying and failing to be positive about this, it was only a power bank after all! Eventually I climbed up into my precarious top bunk.

The man on the lower bunk returned and started getting ready for bed. He called out asking if this belonged to anyone. It was my power bank! My negative thinking was completely baseless. It shows that ups and downs didn’t just apply to the terrain. I did lie awake for ages though listening to the sounds of the many pilgrims surrounding me.

Saturday 22nd April 2023

Distance 12.7km (7.9 ml). Total Elevation 360m (1181 ft)

Zubiri – Zabaldika

People in the dormitory began moving around by 5.30. I quickly got dressed and found a quiet spot in the lounge downstairs to say Morning Prayer. The day dawned with rain, cloud and mist such a contrast with yesterday. I was not under time pressure today as I had booked breakfast at the Albergue and had decided to have a shorter walk today to the parochial albergue of the 12th century church of St Esteban at Zabaldika, a distance of just 12.7km. I had read about this place in the guide book as a great place to visit.

Today was the first day of my pilgrimage without booking any accommodation for that evening. I did feel some anxiety about this even though I kept telling myself to trust in God. The hostel I wanted to stay at did not take bookings so I didn’t have any choice. I was still suffering somewhat from the mass panic which began when I got to Roncesvalles on the first day. So many people had not booked and when bed space ran out there they were suddenly trying to book somewhere to stay each night of their journey. One pilgrim was so anxious he was considering going home if he couldn’t book anywhere ahead. Today was my chance to trust that the Camino would provide as the saying goes.

As I crossed back over the bridge to rejoin the trail the contrast in weather could not be greater, yesterday hot sun, today heavy rain. It was no more than what I expected starting my walk in April and gave me an opportunity to see how effective my waterproofs were.

Also in contrast to yesterday’s rural countryside the first landmark today is the Magna industrial plant. I am used to walking past industry around my home so I am happy to embrace this as part of the richness of the landscape.

There was no let up in the rain and I walked on, (almost a song there!). Whilst I was walking on my own there were never many times when I was not in sight of pilgrims ahead and behind me, so it wasn’t really a solitary walk. I chatted to a man from Sydney, Australia for a while who was so proud as an immigrant to be serving as a Justice of the Peace. I came across a group of Italians I had met last Wednesday too.

A lot of the paths beside the river were steep up and down and quite treacherous with mud and slippery stones. It definitely wasn’t a day for a picnic lunch.

I arrived at my destination for the day really early, about 11.00am. I was a little wet but the climb up to the hillside church wasn’t too bad. I still didn’t know how things worked with these places which didn’t take any bookings, my anxiety was still there.

As it happened I needn’t have worried which seems to be the case so often. The church and Albergue are looked after by Sisters of the Sacred Heart. The church door was open and the Sister who was welcoming pilgrims beckoned me in out of the rain. I left my backpack at the door and explained that I was very early but wanted to stay that night. Sister Maria Assumpta, as that was here name explained that the Albergue did not open until 2pm but I was welcome to bring my pack in and take off my waterproofs and make myself at home in the church. She even offered me the use of a space upstairs where there were blankets if I wanted to get warm, or even lie down.

I took the opportunity to look around using the handy guide provided in English. The Retablo at the east end of the church was interesting and included a statute of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Sister Maria told me about her veneration of the Blessed Virgin and how she viewed the Assumption.

I took the opportunity to pray, catch up with my journal and in a break in the rain to sit on a stone bench in the church porch and have my picnic lunch. As I was sitting there I got chatting with a young lady who was from The United States. It turned out she was Episcopalian and gay so we kind of bonded at that point. It was great to share our journeys of faith with each other. The sun eventually came out and I was able to appreciate the views from the church across the valley.

Throughout this time there was a steady trickle of pilgrims passing by and visiting the church but despite this there was an overwhelming sense of peace and love.

I checked in to the Albergue when it opened and had a pick of beds. The church may have been built in the 12th century but the Albergue was very 21st century having been recently upgraded. Throughout the afternoon the Albergue filled up, but I realised that there was never any realistic prospect of me not getting a bed as long as I got there in a reasonable time.

Sister Maria explained that there was a parish Mass that evening and that I was welcome to take the bread even though I wasn’t a catholic. They translated parts of the service into English for the benefit of the pilgrims who were there and I felt much more a part of it especially sharing the bread.

There was a communal meal that evening which was a simple but delicious meal of salad, lentil and chorizo stew/soup and a fruit salad all with the ubiquitous wine and bread. All this and the night’s accommodation was all provided on a donation basis.

After the meal there was a special pilgrim’s service in the church. Out of the 16 or so staying that night there were only 4 pilgrims there together with the three Sisters, but somehow that made it all the more special. Each pilgrim shared something of why they were on the pilgrimage and then we received a blessing. I must admit to being close to tears. I said to people if I had to end my Camino now I would be happy.

Check out my post Wisdom from Zabaldika for some words of wisdom from the Sisters of The Sacred Heart.

Friday 21st April 2023

Distance 21.9km (13.6 ml). Total Ascent 250m (820 ft)

Roncesvalles – Zubiri

The guidebook gives the impression that in contrast to yesterday today was downhill all the way. I didn’t feel quite like that though, but that’s getting ahead of myself.

As would be the case most days on my pilgrimage I woke sometime after 5.00am when I could hear the early risers getting packed up ready to start walking in the dark. I was not that keen. My walking days start when it is light enough to see what I am walking through.

The Albergue at Roncevalles starts their day at 6.00am when the lights go on and they play Gregorian chant. I was up and doing my ablutions just before then to beat the rush. I must admit is a lovely start to a pilgrim’s day and certainly emphasises that this isn’t a normal holiday. Not long after that one of the volunteer hospitaleros (hosts) came around singing.

I was soon packed up and made my way to the courtyard. I picked up my remaining walking pole which I had managed to mislay and chatted to one of the hospitaleras (female host) which was a real boost to my mood. A reasonable if somewhat disturbed night’s sleep and some encouragement were enough to set me up for the day. It was a massive contrast to how I felt as I arrived yesterday.

I had plenty of time before it was light enough to walk so I found a quiet bench in the courtyard to say Morning Prayer. It was quite wonderful seeing the sky lightening with the knowledge that pilgrims have stayed here for over 1000 years.

As I made my way out of the monastery complex I was please to find that the 12th century chapel of Saint James was open so popped in for a quick prayer.

The sky was brightening and I was keen to get going. By this time there was a constant stream of pilgrims walking. We were soon into woodland which was just lovely in the still morning air and the occasional glimpse of the sun rising over the hills. Coming out of the wood at the village of Burguete I stopped for breakfast at the first place I came to. I tried out the tortilla – a ‘cake’ of egg, potato and onions served with a chunk of fresh crusty bread. I had coffee with milk. I had not been sat down long when the Irishman I had met two days ago over breakfast in Saint Jean Pied de Port joined me and we caught up with our experiences to date.

I left him at the shop and continued on through pastures and woodland of a lovely (and flat) valley.

I stopped in the next village of Espinal and tried out my very basic Spanish in the village shop. I was quite proud of myself as I managed to get a fresh baguette, some cheese, ham and an apple without too much embarrassment. I sat on a wall in the sunshine and had something to eat as I watched pilgrims passing me. I had tonight’s accommodation booked so didn’t feel under pressure at all.

I set off again but this was where the up and down started again. Not at all in yesterday’s league but it was still a challenge and was stopping quite often on the way up the hills. It was beautiful countryside though. We went over the Alto de Mezquiritz (955metres) then down through the next village and up the other side to the Alto de Erro (855metres).

As we climbed up this final hill it became much hotter but thankfully there was more woodland for shade.

We entered an area of pine forest and on a hot day like today the smell of the pine was beautiful such a contrast to the pig farm I had passed earlier. It wasn’t just the views that were overwhelming my senses. Today was a day where I was very consciously dividing my attention between the big views and the more immediate things like the wild flowers and the smells.

There was a welcome refreshment truck near the final summit and I treated myself to a beer. By this time the sun was so strong and hot so I knew I needed to replenish my electrolytes. The final stretch was a fairly steep downhill path which was quite treacherous underfoot. I was glad I had my boots and that it wasn’t raining. I took it slowly and carefully and arrived at the bridge into the town.

Tonight’s Albergue was a privately owned one, EL Palo Avellano. It was very well appointed. A lower bunk bed as last night. But the showers were hot and I was able to catch up with my washing. I had booked my evening meal and breakfast tomorrow so in the end never got round to looking around the village.

As I was waiting in the lounge for the evening meal I got chatting to Des (the Irishman from this morning and the day before), together with a Belgian man. The talk this evening was of politics and Brexit. It was certainly stimulating. I also met a lad who had damaged his knee coming down the same path I had used to Roncesvalles. There but for the grace of God, at least all I broke was a walking pole rather than my knee. We had a great pilgrim’s dinner 3 courses with wine and bread. It was great to be with people from so many different countries. I met some British women who I wouldn’t meet again until the last week of my journey.

It looked like the fine weather wasn’t going to last. There were rumbles of thunder then the rain came that evening. Thankfully my washing had dried. I checked the weather forecast and it wasn’t looking good for tomorrow. I fell asleep that night with the sound of the rain falling.

Thursday 20th April 2023

Distance 25.1 km (15.6 ml). Total Ascent 1390m (4560 ft)

Saint Jean Pied de Port – Roncesvalles

After an OK but disturbed night I was up as soon as possible ready for breakfast at 6.00am. I had paid for the breakfast when I booked so made the most of it. I wanted to be ready to start walking as soon as it was light and was excited to actually begin. Prayer, though was a priority for me – so finding somewhere quiet to say Morning Prayer was the first task after leaving the hostel. Happily there weren’t many people around at that time in the morning so I just sat on a bench just along from the hostel. I did feel like I rushed things a bit though as I was anxious to be on my way. Eventually I set off just before 7.30 on Thursday 20th April – only 800km or 500 miles to go.

There were plenty of other pilgrims around so I found my way by following them and checking out the frequent way markers and them I made my way over the bridge and out of the town. It was quite steep at first and I was stopping quite often. I began to question how effective my preparation had been. Still, looking back and taking photographs is a good excuse for a rest. Just 10 minutes into the walk and I’m puffing and panting, though the sunrise over the hills lifts my mood.

After the first steep section it levelled and even went downhill so I thought I would manage. I knew this was one of the most, if not the most difficult days but it didn’t make it any easier.

It wasn’t all about the physical challenge though. As I walked I wanted to experience as much of my surroundings as I could, the sights, the sounds, and the smells! I wanted to immerse myself in this wonderful world. It was good to focus on details as I walked to like these roses.

It got steeper and steeper and more brutal as time wore on. My goal at this stage was to get to the 8km point at Orisson where there is a cafe. I had to get there though thankfully the views were so great, it made up for the difficulty. I hadn’t been in mountains like this before and with perfect weather every few metres there was another vista which took my breath away – it wasn’t just the physical challenge

After a particularly gruelling stretch into my head popped a chorus i learnt at church when I was very young….

When the road is rough and steep
Fix your eyes upon Jesus
He alone has power to keep
Fix your eyes upon Him
Jesus is a gracious Friend
One on whom you can depend
He is faithful to the end
Fix your eyes upon Him.

I hadn’t thought about that for close on 60 years. I am not sure it helped in a physical way but it kept me going.

As I passed by some young trees carefully planted beside the path, I was so pleased to realise the kindness of those volunteers who look after the trail. They were fruit trees, Apples, Plums and more planted as shade and fruit for pilgrims in the future.

Onward and upward though…..

Finally my first proper rest stop come into view — just two and three quarter hours after starting. Freshly squeezed orange juice and a slice of sweet almond cake on the terrace with views to die for. It makes the gruelling slog to get here worthwhile.

I congratulated myself on making it this far, no blisters and with a half hour rest I was ready to go on. I changed my socks as this was recommended to keep blisters at bay. It was still uphill but I was assured it wasn’t as steep, though I should have realised I still had two thirds of my walk to go until I reached today’s destination. Feeling refreshed after my break I set off again with renewed enthusiasm.

What it may have lacked in steep inclines it made up for in never ending slog. I was aiming for my next stop which was a food truck a few kilometres further on. My left foot was beginning to feel sore so I was glad when I finally reached it. I had some Aquarius and pressed on knowing I still had quite a way to go. When I eventually did stop and check I discovered a blister! I put a plaster on but it was more the disappointment and almost a feeling that I had failed. I know it sounds a bit over the top but I really thought I could get away without blisters. I had to press on though. I was very conscious I still had quite a distance to go and was nowhere near the highest point.

There were lighter moments though. An Italian lady who was in the next bed to me last night passed by. She greeted me and then turned to her friends and said, this is the man who I slept with last night. It came across rather differently than she meant but it was quite funny.

I was beginning to get view fatigue though and couldn’t possibly stop and take photos every five minutes. When I looked across and saw the snow covered peaks in the distance it was a wonderful moment.

The weather was perfect. I had psyched myself up to expect rain and/or fog and cloud, which I heard later was the case just two days after. It wasn’t even too hot as there was something of a cooling breeze. Finally we came to some woodland though up here the trees were just coming into bud.

We came to an iconic milestone on this part of the stage. Only 765km to go though I had my doubts about the accuracy of the distance.

Soon we came to the Fontaine de Roland. It is named after the great hero of Charlemagne and is still providing clean water to pilgrims.

The border with Spain is just here though there is nothing to mark it until you see this stone telling you you are now in the spanish province of Navarre.

It was tempting to think that I was nearly there but it wasn’t the case. Still more uphill climbing to do. Just keep following the yellow arrows. I was quite excited to see a snake, thankfully a small one moving away from me. Just a few steps more and there were three lizards. There were plenty of moments like that which meant it was not all about the physical slog. I was getting mire and more tited though and conscious of so many people passing me, it just seemed never ending.

Eventually I did reach the top and could actually see the monastery of Roncesvalles in the valley far below. I was so relieved. It was 3.15pm and I had reached Col de Lepoeder, the highest point at 1450 metres.

According to the guide book to get here from Saint Jean Pied de Port was a total ascent of 1390 meters. I had checked before I started and noted that Ben Nevis is only 1345 metres. I was shattered , the last hour or so was more and more of a struggle to keep going. It was downhill all the way from here but that had its own challenges….

I decided to be clever and take the shorter and more direct route down despite the fact it was rough and more hazardous. I’d come this far and my confidence had returned. It was difficult with very rocky sections. Most of the trail down was through forest which was such as contrast to the pastures and open mountains of the way up.

If I hadn’t been so careful not to fall, and so tired and anxious to get to the end I think I would have enjoyed this section even more. It was so quiet with just the sound of a stream as I neared the bottom. There was a massive patch of bluebells too.

Just before I got to Roncesvalles I noticed something odd and discovered that I had lost the tip of one of my walking poles, thus rendering it useless. So, nine hours after I started, I arrived not with a sense of joy and achievement but a feeling of disappointment and annoyance. This was compounded when I discovered I had over an hour to wait to check in and realised my blister on my heel was worse than I thought. I was however thankful I had booked in advance as by the time I got there they were turning people away.

The hostel here is a converted monastery which I read has since the 12th Century received ‘All pilgrims .. sick and well, Catholics, Jews, pagans, heretics and vagabonds. I am not quite sure where I fit in. Thankfully the accommodation has been upgraded since then. There is something to be said for being old though, you tend to get allocated the bottom bunk.

I didn’t get much chance to look around as by the time I had checked in, I had just enough time to get showered and changed before my pilgrims meal. It was a basic 3 course meal with wine and bread and the company of other pilgrims. I met someone I had chatted to yesterday as well as someone from Korea.

It was straight from the meal to the pilgrims Mass in the 13th century church. This was my first experience of a catholic Mass. It was in Spanish of course though the basic format is what I am used to. After the Mass there were prayers to the Virgin of the Camino who I gathered would look after us as a mother on the way. At the end there was the opportunity to go up to the front for a blessing. They listed the countries of the pilgrims who had checked in that day. It was a very long list. The whole world seemed to be there! Thankfully the rest, a shower and a good meal together with the Mass and Blessing take the sting out of my negative feelings and make me a little calmer.

It had been a very long day and I was happy to lie down on my bunk and wait for lights out at 10pm.

I seem to be unable to relax when travelling. I suppose I was excited and a little bit anxious too as I was beginning my final day before starting to actually walk. I had loads of time after waking up early in Bordeaux and ended up having a long wait at the train station. I love people watching so it is never boring. A highlight was a lad playing Leonard Cohen’s Hallelujah song on the station piano. Any mention of Hallelujah fits the theme.

The train arrived on time and I was thankful I got a seat as it was packed. I noticed a few people with backpacks but didn’t have an opportunity to chat with them and I assumed, correctly as it happened, that they too were pilgrims. Most of the journey was flat countryside with kilometre after kilometre of arable fields. As I approached Bayonne there was more and more pine forest/plantation. My main thought as I gazed out of the window was wistful almost regret that I hadn’t chosen to walk down through France after all.

I arrived at Bayonne station and this was the first time that I really felt part of the pilgrim community as there were quite a few of us wandering around the station not quite sure what to do next. I had bought my tickets in advance so was waiting for my train. I noticed a man drumming up custom for a direct bus to Saint Jean Pied de Port. To my shame I was unsure of my French and assumed that this was a scam. Eventually I realised that the train company had provided a direct bus to take pressure of the train and I decided that would be a better bet. The views on the bus were spectacular with wooded valleys and steep sided mountains. Interestingly the quaint looking little houses we passed all seemed to have white walls and dark red windows and doors. Looking at the scenery I did have a niggling thought that maybe I should have started walking at Bayonne which I had considered as an option.

Apart from the awesome scenery I spent my bus journey listening in to a couple of pilgrims in the seats behind me. I began to feel a bit intimidated by the ‘expert’ knowledge of one of them. It seems to be a common theme that I noticed having watched (too many) YouTube videos that you come across so many of these so called experts who know everything there is to know about the Camino. Thankfully it wasn’t too long before we arrived at Saint Jean.

When I arrived and collected my backpack I did what became something of a theme on my walk; if unsure of where to go, follow the pilgrims in front. I am pleased to say it almost always worked! I followed a line of pilgrims to the pilgrim’s office where we had a twenty minute wait until it opened. Waiting in queues gives an opportunity for people to talk to me and even occasionally for me to start a conversation! Immediately you are aware that you are part on an international community, when the first conversations you have are with two Australians and an New Zealander currently living in Manchester. I was walking on my own but very conscious of being a part of this crowd of people all on this Way of St James.

Checking in at the Pilgrim’s Office feels like the formal beginning of the walking stage of this part of my pilgrim journey. The first stamp in my Pilgrim Credential / Passport. The volunteers who staff the office are so helpful, it was more of a conversation than a formal transaction. They did warn me that it was much busier than expected and checked whether I had booked my place at Roncesvalles. As I came out of the office the evidence was there in front of me as the queue was getting longer and longer.

The pilgrim’s hostel I had booked, La Vita e Bella had a check-in time of 3pm but they didn’t mind me arriving early. This was going to be my first experience of staying in pilgrim hostels, which will be referred to as Albergues in Spain. This would be a day of so many new experiences. My hosts were so welcoming which mad this not quite as scary as it could have been. Despite reading so much about the Camino and watching videos – doing something for the first time in real life is very different.

I had the pick of the beds so picked one which wasn’t a bunk bed and began what would be a daily routine going forward, sort out my bed, get a shower and a shave, wash some clothes. Then I could relax. Today I didn’t need to rest so I went for a look around the town. The weather was glorious, hot and sunny. The town itself, nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees is beautiful. A walled town with lots of quaint cobbled streets and a 17th century Citadel overlooking it. I wandered around and from the citadel tried to work out which direction I would be walking tomorrow.

I checked out the starting point which is the gateway under the tower.

Once through the gate you can look right and left along the river and then straight ahead up the street where I would take my first steps on the Way.

Then a quiet time to rest and pray and remember why I am doing this. There are so many thoughts and things in my head. It’s good to just pause and read out loud some of the prayers etc I have saved on my phone.

I had an evening meal at the hostel and enjoyed the company of other pilgrims. This time from Ireland and the Netherlands. I went for a stroll after my meal and really felt the excitement of finally starting my walk in the morning.

The dormitory had filled up by the time I got to bed so there was plenty of activity and it was certainly not a quiet and peaceful first night. I did however get to sleep sooner than I was expecting so perhaps communal living might not be as bad as I had been told. Despite being aware of snoring it didn’t keep me awake.