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Friday 5th May 2023

Distance 13.7km / 8.5 miles

Cardenuela Rio Pico – Burgos

I had a disturbed night and woke up a bit disoriented. I found a old plastic chair on the edge of the Albergue and said Morning Prayer as the sky brightened. After a quick breakfast I set off on my own at 7.15, a bit late for me. It was not far to Burgos but then I wanted to stay at a parochial Albergue who didn’t take bookings and wanted to make sure of my place….. O me of little faith!

In the early morning it was cool and even though it was mostly road walking to begin with there was not much traffic. I walked through the village of Orbaneja then up over the big dual carriageway. I was in the zone, just walking and I could see various groups of pilgrims ahead of me. This was fine until I saw a group of pilgrims walking towards me, this got me mightily confused. I consulted the Wise Pilgrim App on my phone and discovered I had missed my turning onto the riverside path I wanted to use . So I turned around and backtracked towards the Dual Carriageway, still looking for pilgrims to follow. I nearly repeated my mistake as I nearly followed some pilgrims as they headed off beside a field. Just ahead of me were Sally and Alex together with another couple I had been chatting to last night coming towards me. I explained to them about the options and using my App persuade them of the best route which we eventually found though the signage wasn’t good.

What started out in error turned out for the best as we walked and talked together all the way into Burgos. We stopped for a second breakfast of coffee and tortilla at Castanares before we started on the quiet path beside the river.

It was a lovely route into the city missing out most of the suburbs and busy roads. Just before reaching the city centre I left them and turned off to find my preferred Albergue. Despite following really comprehensive directions I managed to walk past it several times before finally finding the entrance. The hostel was just part of a very imposing parish centre which also included a church. The pilgrim’s entrance is round the side.

Of course I was way too early, they weren’t going to open for hours. Just as I was pondering what to do I was approached by an old lady who recognising I was a pilgrim and wanting to stay unlocked the door of the Albergue and invited me to leave my backpack in the reception room. It was the only time I saw her but realised later that she was a legendary figure having devoted many many years of her life to the Albergue on a completely voluntary basis.

I went to a nearby bar – for a coffee and to use the toilet. It’s quite often really practical details which loom large in your mind when walking! It was a quiet place, only a few old men there and the ubiquitous television whose news output I could only half understand. I decided to have a look round the city while I waited for the Albergue to open. I wandered towards the Cathedral mainly taking in the parks and bridges along the river.

The city has an important Museum of Human Evolution which I didn’t get round to visit but this artwork in the park references that.

On my return to the Albergue there were half a dozen people queuing outside the Albergue so I waited with them. When it came time to open a volunteer came out and explained the strict rules of the Albergue, there was even a folder with them all written down. It was very strict, silence in the corridors and on the stairs, and doors locked at night with people leaving before breakfast forbidden. Benediction in the church was compulsory too. It was such a radical contrast to the chaos of last night, but I really appreciated the discipline. I really feel I have been led here as I wanted to re-charge my spiritual batteries.

After a very lengthy check-in I showered, shave and sorted my stuff then decided I would go to the cathedral. On the way I saw Dave, the young lad who I had met a few days previously. He had had to rest up for 3 days in Burgos to let his injuries heal enough for him to continue.

I was conflicted about visiting the Cathedral as I recognised that I was in tourist mode on this journey. It was almost as if I would feel guilty is I didn’t go and see the Cathedral. I paid my 5 Euros (reduced rate for pilgrims) and went in. I even downloaded the English Guide onto my phone. The whole place was overwhelming, such beautiful and exquisite architecture, treasures, and renaissance artwork. I walked around, saw the tomb of El Cid and so much more. I didn’t end up staying long though, I longed for some kind of spiritual connection which I just couldn’t get. I just can’t seem to play the part of a tourist.

On the way back to the Albergue I wandered around a non-touristy bit of the city which I seemed to appreciate more. I found a handy supermarket and stocked up on nuts and drinks, handily changing a 50 Euro note too. There was time to rest before Mass and Benediction in the church. Mass was as unintelligible as ever yet deeply meaningful. The Benediction for the pilgrims was wonderful, laying on of hands and a pat on the cheek! I was so pleased too to see April who I had shared such precious times with in Zabaldika was also staying.

We were ushered out of the church to the waiting communal dinner. Just salad and soup with a piece of fruit but all the more perfect in it’s simplicity. The Hospitalero explained that whatever was given the day before in voluntary donations paid for what the pilgrims received the following day. After the meal the few of us who were staying that night gathered round to share why we were walking the Camino. There were all sorts of reasons from the mundane to the deeply harrowing. It was a special time, a safe space where everyone felt able to open up about their deepest thoughts. After that we were told it was time for bed!

Thursday 4th May 2023

Distance 24.4km (15.2 miles)

Villafranca Montes de Oca – Cardenuela Riopico

I had read in the guidebook about the steep climb out of Villafranca but despite this I set out with renewed energy and purpose. I felt the benefit of my almost rest day. It was a fine morning and took the opportunity to take photos of the beautiful sunrise, and pause for breath.

I was walking through beautiful forest for the first part of this day. It was beautiful walking and I was amazed by the variety of wild flowers along the path. It was a day for birdsong too especially the cuckoos which have been a regular part of the soundscape over the past few days. Once I’d done my initial climb the walking was less demanding and I could relax more into my rhythm. Walking like this always gives me a chance to let my mind go free.

I paused at a civil war monument and began reflecting on the particular horrors of a civil war where you are not fighting and killing strangers but perhaps neighbours and those who in the past you would have considered friends.

It isn’t just a memorial, it marks the shallow graves of 300 who were shot and buried the. Such horror in the midst of beauty.

I then came to the village of San Juan de Ortega. If I had done a ‘complete’ stage yesterday this would have been my destination. There was a large church and attached parochial hostel. It all looked so idyllic. It made me think again about my lack of faith/trust in going for a booking yesterday rather than risk not getting a bed. Today though it was just a break for breakfast of a coffee and tortilla. As I left the village I passed another cross – which somehow calmed me.

The forest gradually changed to scrub as I walked on to Atapuerca.

The village of Atapuerca was quite a touristy place because of the nearby archaeological site of some of the earliest human remains in Europe. For me though it was just a short break for a cool drink before I tackled the next climb.

It was an interesting section of today’s walk. On the right of the picture above past the rudimentary barbed wire fence was a military training ground. So rather than the birdsong of earlier my accompaniment was gunfire.

The crosses on the way – of which there are very many, never cease to remind me that I’m not here just to walk, however enjoyable that is but that I am on a pilgrimage with a higher purpose.

Once I got over the brow of the hill I could see all the way to the City of Burgos in the distance. It felt weird that it wasn’t today’s destination but tomorrow’s. Just a shortish distance more to walk before my stop for the night.

This was a day when I was trusting God to lead me to the right place to stay. That kind of sounds more spiritual than it really is. The fact was I hadn’t booked anywhere so I would take what I could get. I was aiming for the Via Minera hostel at Cardanuela. I got there quite early so I was one of the first to arrive. This was I place where I felt my lack of Spanish language very keenly. Check-in was quite chaotic, first he wanted to wait for his father then he checked me in anyway. A few more people arrived and I was sitting on the terrace looking over the valley when the hospitalero beckoned me to follow him. My first thought was that there was something wrong but he ushered me into the dining room where his wife and his father were eating and made me a sandwich with some fresh bread and the meat which they were eating. I gathered that it was venison which had been hunted locally. It seemed that no-one else got this treatment and I felt very privileged at this random act of hospitality and kindness.

I had signed up for dinner and breakfast. The communal dinner was very convivial and got chatting with other pilgrims. I met some young French guys who weren’t staying at the Albergue but sleeping out in the open as they journeyed. The chat continued afterwards. I got talking with George from Liverpool and a couple from Perth, Australia as well as renewing my acquaintance with Alex and Sally from New Zealand. I also met a lovely 70 year old who I first saw doing yoga stretches which blew my mind.

Wednesday 3rd May 2023

Distance 12 km (7.45 ml) Ascent approx 900m

Belorado – Villafranca Montes de Oca

Today is my day of rest, though I won’t be taking the whole day off, just walking to the next ALbergue at Villafranca Montes de Oca. The day started out as normal with Morning Prayer in the quiestness and peace of the breaking dawn but as I set off things were really flat, both in terrain and in mood.

Not quite sure why my mood was flat, I was rested, I had had a great stay in a hostel with friendly and interesting people and even a swimming pool. I think it was something to do with feeling a bit like I wasn’t doing the pilgrimage I was expecting maybe. I wasn’t really thinking about getting to Santiago and I even started to wonder what I was doing so far.

I had to remind myself that if the Camino is a metaphor for life then there are days when there isn’t anything exciting happening. I began to think about home then forced my thinking to be present in the the moment on the Way.

I stopped for a coffee and a croissant as much to pass the time as to have breakfast and I had a second break further on. The scenery was its beautiful self.

I soon came off the hill down into the valley and before 10.30 I had arrived at the village where I was stopping. As I arrived I caught up with Dave who I had met yesterday. He was obviously suffering. WE stopped at a bar at the entrance to the village and had coffee and a snack and a chat. It sounds terrible but It encouraged me to think that physically I was managing so well in contrast to someone much younger even though I discovered he was in his 40s. I must be getting old.

We parted and I walked uphill through the village to the Albergue San Anton Abad I had booked. It was attached to a posh hotel and it was weird checking in a the hotel reception. As always I was a bit early and sat in the sunshine drinking a very expensive Coca Cola. After I had found my bunk and showered and done my laundry I settled down to quite deliberately rest. I did see Alex and Sally from New Zealand too, it seemed quite normal now to meet people over and over again at different places.

I had time today to do some thinking. Whilst my natural inclination was to keep walking I wanted to pace myself and give myself a chance to really discover the nature of my pilgrimage. I realised that part of why I had stopped here though was not finding a place to stay at the next village San Juan de Ortega. I reasoned that today was the second ‘seventh’ day of my walk and it should be a day of rest.

I certainly don’t want to push myself too far but somehow I think the time has come to return to a more raw trust in God that he will guide and provide. I have had so many promises in the course of Morning Prayer perhaps I need to set aside my last few days of booking. Booking does give me confidence but I want this trust thing to be part of my pilgrimage. I don’t want it to turn into just a walk.

Tuesday 2nd May 2023

Distance 22.4km (13.9 ml) Total Ascent 300m (984 ft)

Santo Domingo de la Calzada – Belorado

No one else in the dorm seemed to be leaving early which was a novelty, so I dragged everything out to the lounge and packed my bag there. Soon I was ready to head out. The first order of business was to find a quiet place to say Morning Prayer. Thankfully there weren’t many people around at that time in the morning so I found a bench in one of the squares. It was cold!

I set off out of the town. Fairly flat going to start with with a spectacular sunrise. I did put my gloves on when I stopped as for the first time I was feeling the early morning cold.

The trail went up into the hills which thankfully were not too steep where I passed this rather impressive cross.

The first village I came to was Granon where I was hoping to find some breakfast. There was a food truck at the entrance to the village but it looked really busy so I continued through the village expecting there to be a bar open – but there wasn’t!

I did notice a sign for Panaderia Jesus – so I felt I had to patronize Jesus’ bakery. It was kind of weird though as there wasn’t a shop front, you just went in the front door and through to the back of the house. I ended up buying two napoletanas (pain au chocolat) and found a handy bench on the way out of the village to eat them.

There were a series of small villages as I walked up and down hills. Points of interest were the border with a new province, in this case Castile and Leon

and the village where Santo Domingo was born.

I didn’t stop until I reached Villamajor del Rio. Here was a handy truck stop kind of place where I stopped. By this time it had warmed up to the days normal heat so the refreshment was very welcome. The rest of today’s journey was on tracks beside the busy road in the hot sun.

While I was walking this seemingly endless trail, it was almost as if I could fall asleep. It was very relaxing walking, the only changes were the gradients which weren’t severe enough to demand much thought.

Eventually I arrived at Belorado where I had a booking at the Albergue Quatro Cantones. I had a bit of time to kill before it opened so went to find some refreshment. I had an Aquarius drink and some Tapas at a bar in the main square which had some shade.

When it was time to join the check-in queue it was back to the Albergue. Who should I see in there was the Korean Lady and her son.

This was a private Albergue and it was well appointed and I was pleased to discover that the Hospitalera who was checking us in had lived on Tyneside for three years!. There was eveb a swimming pool in the garden so after doing my chores I had a lovely swim and relaxed on a poolside lounger. It wasn’t all hardship on the Camino!

After my rest I went for a look around the town. I noticed interesting ‘artwork’

After a brief visit to the supermercado, I then went into the church and took a moment to pray and reflect. It was great to feel grounded after my experience in the Cathedral yesterday.

I had booked for the communal dinner and ended up on a table with a British lad who was living in Berlin and a couple from Florida. It was great to meet people like this who were on the same journey though for very different reasons.

The British lad, Dave had started the same day as me and I was surprised that he hadn’t raced ahead as he was much younger. he explained he would do long, fast days and take longer breaks. It transpired that he had ended up with shin splints and was struggling.

He spoke about never being bored too which reminded me of my intention to walk in the present. I always found something to look at and maintain my interest.

Monday 1st May 2023

Distance 30.8km (19.1 ml)

Ventosa – Santo Domingo de la Calzada

I knew today was going to be a longer day, so I was up and out as early as possible. It wasn’t yet light enough to see where I was walking so I took the time to sit in the bus shelter on the edge of the village and say Morning Prayer. Apart from the odd passing pilgrim it was so quiet and I could see the sky brightening over the valley towards the east.

I started walking about 6.45 first downhill then a longer uphill walk. There was a handy viewpoint as I got to the top of the hill where I caught one of the most beautiful sunrises of my journey.

This was one of those solitary days in contrast to yesterday. I walked on my own all day. This isn’t a negative thing – it leaves plenty of time to let my mind wander. Over the last few months and especially on this pilgrimage, the internal dialogue I have in my head when on my own increasingly involves God. Is this prayer? The scenery was wide and expansive with vineyards as far as the eye could see.

My initial plan was to stop in Najera for some breakfast. I had heard of how spectacular the cliffs behind the town looked in the early morning sunshine but today the clouds got in the way.

The town centre was really attractive and dressed up like a medieval theme park as there was a festival happening this weekend. However I was there too early in the day and apart from a few people setting up their stalls it was very quiet. The one bar I found open was packed full so I walked through the town and sat on a bench and eat some of the food I had stashed in my backpack for breakfast. I did say hello to the Korean woman and her son I had met yesterday. It was then up the hill and through more vineyards.

I stopped at the next village of Azofra, once again on a hilltop and stopped to change socks fill up my water and get something to eat.

After that it was rolling hills and wide, wide landscapes with the road seemingly going on forever. It was getting hotter and hotter too.

The next village I came to was very different to the older ones I normally saw. It seemed to comprise of unfinished housing developments in the midst of scrub and fields with incongruously a posh golf club. There wasn’t much there to tempt me to stop so on I went.

There is something different about walking where you can see your path going on and on into the distance. Eventually I came over the brow of a hill and saw my destination for today in the distance. The town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. What a welcome sight it was!

As always it still took ages to get into the centre of town past agricultural and industrial units and along the road.

I checked into the Albergue which to my surprise was not full despite this being a holiday weekend. So much for my bed anxiety! It was very big and had some of the best facilities I had experienced so far with a lovely lounge area.

After my customary ablutions, laundry and siesta I went out to have a look around and to get something to eat.

The cathedral was the obvious place to start. There was a five euro charge for entry which gave me access to a couple more museums. I went into the church but felt overwhelmed by groups of tourists. I downloaded the guide to my phone and was impressed by the history and the beauty but I felt out of place. My pilgrimage journey somehow didn’t allow room in my mind just to be a tourist and I didn’t spend long there. I did eventually find a spot for a brief moment of prayer.

Whilst I was struggling with being a tourist I did find an interesting quote in the attached museum which was full of statues of the Virgin Mary and various Saints.

VII Church in Heaven
We are all pilgrims who are walking towards the House of God, Eternal Life.
The Virgin Mary is our Mother and takes care of us at all times.
Saints in addition to advocating on behalf of us, are models of a religious life that
encourage us on our walk.

I didn’t bother with the other museums and wandered around the town centre with its attractive squares and settled on a bar where I had some pizza and beer.

While I was sitting eating a small procession of young women dressed in traditional costume passed by. It was preceded by some drummers. I had heard that the festival of Santo Domingo was starting but if this was it, it felt somewhat underwhelming. I think I was a week early for the main event.

I went back to the Albergue to discover the dorm I was in was less than half full which meant there was no one in the bunk above me. I was able to book a bed for tomorrow night so I settled down to a good night’s sleep.

Sunday 30th April 2023

Distance 18.4km (11.4 ml)

Logrono – Ventosa

It was a pleasant walk out of Logrono. There were few people around as I left even though I was a bit later than sometimes as the Albergue provided breakfast. I decided there were three groups of people in evidence, those revellers who hadn’t yet gone to bed after their nocturnal partying, the street cleaners hosing down the streets because of last night’s partying and pilgrims like me who’d had an early night.

As with so many of the villages, towns and cities I walked through there were apart from the way markers so many things like sculptures which highlighted the importance they attach to the Camino de Santiago.

The trail took us through and urban park and down the hill through a flat valley. I looked back to see the sun rising through the clouds.

Then it was up a slight incline through a beautiful wooded nature park surrounding a large reservoir.

This was the first and last time I passed a large body of water like this. It was then out into the fields again with vineyard after vineyard, often labelled with the variety.

It was around here I met a couple from New Zealand, Alex and Sally. We walked together for a couple of hours until we got to Navarrete. Time passed so quickly when in conversation. I was persuaded to have my photo taken. As may be obvious by now I am not into selfies.

Conversations are easy on the Camino and it was a joy to share with others.

Once I got to Navarrete I said farewell to Alex and Sally and stopped in the square opposite the village church and had some bread and cheese. I then sorted out my feet changed my socks and the dressing on my heel which was protecting where there had been a blister.

It was an undemanding trail from here to Ventosa where I was staying through endless vineyards with their distinctive red soil. As I got near to the village which was on the top of a hill as usual there were a series of artworks beside the trail.

They were interesting but I have yet to do some research about their meaning. As I reached the edge of the village I looked back at the way I had come.

As usual I had arrived before the Albergue was open so had a beer and watched the world (of pilgrims) go by. I checked in got myself sorted then went for a look around the village before having a nap. The Albergue was a commercial one, with nice bunk beds in small rooms with a nice bathroom. Looking back there were so many days I seemed to spend more of my day resting than walking. I met a lovely British couple who were doing part of the Camino Frances. They told me how they had done a lot of work setting up the Saint James Way in England from Reading to Southampton. To make the day even better I got an email confirming my reservation for the following night. I met a Korean woman walking with her son who insisted I have some orange juice as I passed through the kitchen, just another random act of kindness. There is a sense of some special connection between fellow pilgrims. We were to meet again for several more days.

I decided today would be a day for a pilgrim meal. As I was walking to the restaurant I met the British couple and Alex and Sally. We sat down and had our meal together. It was great to share this time with strangers who had become temporary friends. All in all a great day.

Saturday 29th April 2023

Distance 9.4km (5.8 ml)

Viana – Logrono

I felt a sense of peace as I got up this morning. Gone was the anxiety of yesterday. I packed up and went outside to find somewhere quiet to pray. I found a perch at the doorway of the ruined church which was out of the way. I debated whether to go to a bar for breakfast but in any event decided to press on.

I walked down out of the town onto the valley plain past allotments then through fields, vineyards and occasional woodland. I looked back towards Viana, the sun was just rising and it was such a peaceful start to the day.

It was pleasant flat walking in the cool of the morning. When I saw the sign beside the road telling me I was leaving the province of Navarra and entering La Rioja I felt like I was making progress.

Once I negotiated the one hill on today’s walk my destination of Logrono came into sight.

Walking past the allotments as I got closer to the city made me want to get back to my own neglected garden.

As I got closer I passed by drifts of these tree seeds which looked like snow.

Then over the imposing bridge into the city.

I had managed to arrive at my destination by 9.15am! The first thing I did was check out where my preferred Albergue was, in this case the parochial hostel of Santiago el Real. I had several hours to make use of before it opened so I set off to have a look round the city and importantly to find some food. In cities I did use Google maps on my phone to find where I was and to look for essential things like supermarkets, pharmacies and cash machines.

I had a quick look inside the church which the Albergue was part of and was impressed by the best Easter Garden I had seen.

As I walked around the streets which were just beginning to come alive I noticed some men on a park bench drinking cans. Who they were I don’t know but it’s familiarity highlighted the fact that this was a normal modern city with all its different people. This was the real world outside of my pilgrim bubble.

I found an impressively big supermarket and got bread, cheese, ham and fruit and sat down on a park bench in the morning sun for a leisurely brunch. After that I found the Cathedral and had a quick look around but they were busy preparing for a wedding so I didn’t linger inside. I was sitting outside a bit later when I noticed the wedding guests arriving, dressed to the nines, it was definitely a posh wedding. The great and the good arrived including people in uniform and a few policemen. A couple of posh cars later and the groom and then the bride went into the church. It was great to see people enjoying the good things of life but I felt the contrast between my scruffy appearance and my current pilgrim life. People watching is something I love to do.

There was plenty of beautiful architecture and historical stuff. Indeed I gathered that there was some kind of cultural festival which was highlighting this and combining the old with lots of interesting art installations. Today I felt more at ease with city life.

This installation which was an interpretation of a fountain had an information board in Spanish and in English. Sadly the description didn’t seem to help with the meaning at all. Perhaps its best to just enjoy artwork without trying to understand the meaning. Eventually I decided I could go back to the Albergue and see if there was a queue which indeed there was.

One of the great things about the queue was the opportunity to meet other pilgrims. Today’s highlight was meeting Tony and his daughter Hannah from British Columbia and Paul from Manchester. I had noticed Tony and Hannah at the pilgrims Mass the previous evening in Viana. I somehow made a particular connection with Tony as our conversation moved beyond the usual sharing of pilgrim experiences to matters of faith.

After checking in and doing my laundry I went back into the city with my new friends who wanted to visit the supermarket and were interested in checking out the artworks. Paul and I decided we would get a bottle of wine since we were in this famous wine region of La Rioja. Sadly I never got to sample it as I never got the opportunity after getting back to the Albergue.

There were other kinds of artwork around the city. This one I found particularly impressive.

I took some time to work out where I was going tomorrow. The ‘normal’ stage was over 28km to Najera. That was more than I wanted to do and when looking around I found I could book a bed at The Albergue San Saturnino in Ventosa just over 18km way. That was a weight off my mind.

There was a communal meal that evening, a simple one of pasta salad and a yoghurt, the ubiquitous bread and wine with the added touch of a Ferrero Rocher chocolate. The communal meals are great, they are on a donation basis, usually very simple but somehow all the more precious for that. It was very convivial with a mixture of people from all over the world speaking different languages.

After the meal we were led downstairs, through the priests entrance to the church to the choir stalls at the back. Once we were all seated there were a few prayers then a candle was passed from person to person and those who wanted to could briefly share something of why they were on the Camino. It was a very special and spiritual moment.

We then had out pilgrim’s passport stamped and headed back to the Albergue because it was getting past our bed time.

It was however the noisiest night I had experienced; not just the snoring in the room but the party-goers passing the open window most of the night. I certainly woke at 3.30am thinking it was daytime with the noise outside. It’s all part of the joy of city life.

Friday 28th April 2023

Distance 18.4km (11.4 ml). Total ascent 300m ( 984 ft)

Los Arcos – Viana

I woke early to the sound of pilgrims getting ready for an early start – it seemed like anytime after 5.00am was a good time. For many people they will be looking at the guidebook stage and planning to walk the 27.8km to the city of Logrono. I am determined to wait until is light so at the moment 7.00am is just about right. Today’s stage for me is just 18 km to the town of Viana.

I doesn’t seem to matter how much encouragement I had yesterday, I woke up anxious about finding a place to stay. This anxiety is not based on my experience, in the few days I have been walking I have never had a problem. I got up and went out into the garden of the Albergue and found a quiet bench away from anyone else to say Morning Prayer. Not for the first time as I read the Psalms I think God has got a sense of humour.

Some went astray in desert wastes
and found no path to a city to dwell in,
Hungry and thirsty,
their soul was fainting within them.
So they cried to the Lord in their trouble
and he delivered them from their distress.
He set their feet on the right way
till they came to a city to dwell in.

Psalm 107

Today was another day of hills and valleys though I think maybe I was just beginning to get used to it. Apart from the ubiquitous views there were a couple of particular points of interest. Thinking about it now I see them as places of prayer. One the modern one where pilgrims have tied ribbons onto the trees beside the path, though it’s an age old practice.

Later at the highest point of today’s walk – the hermitage of Nuestra Senora del Poyo. It wasn’t open but sat outside, had a rest and considered how the Virgin might be looking after me on my pilgrimage as promised on the first night at Roncesvalles. I still don’t get it.

As always the views are spectacular even if it does mean more up and down.

Throughout my morning’s walk I still couldn’t get out of my head the thought of not finding a bed for the night. It provoked an internal dialogue all the way. I consciously took more breaks rather than powering on, albeit short ones. I tried to be present in my walking rather than focussing solely on reaching my destination.

I thought about how many say that ‘the Camino is a metaphor for life’. I was musing about how often we live by not doing anything until we are sure of the end result and that there is something to be said by living in the moment.

Eventually the town of Viana came into view, on top of another hill of course. Once through the outskirts it was up the very steep climb to the historic centre. What a revelation. I was entranced, not by the medieval architecture but by the vibe. Lots of pilgrims but also lots of locals and even a street market. Although the only street photo I seem to have looks a bit deserted!

When I walked through the town and arrived at the municipal albergue – it was all so simple. Just a few people queuing and there was no problem at all. What was I worrying about?

After checking in checked out the ruined church opposite the Albergue and the terraced garden at the end of the lane.

As I was sitting on a bench looking at the view of tomorrow’s walk I met the German lad I had been speaking to yesterday. He had decided to stay in a hotel tonight. He too was not sure where to stay tomorrow. After he left I consulted my guide boo. I set my heart on the parochial hostel in Logrono and I booked a hostel for the following night in Ventosa. Somehow that took the pressure off and felt able to relax.

I wandered around the town a bit but most things were shut now for ‘siesta’ so I sat and read for a while. When things were opening up again I picked up some more stuff for blisters at a pharmacy and went for a pilgrim’s meal I had noticed earlier. I sat at a table in the afternoon sun watching the world go by.

The main church opposite was open so I went in to have a look and to say a quiet prayer. As always Saint James was there, though since I was walking on his way it is to be expected.

As I came out I noticed the tomb of Cesare Borgia, illegitimate son of the Borgia Pope Alexander VI who was killed defending Viana in 1507 after being banished. (Just in case it comes up in a pub quiz!)

I realised the Mass was starting soon so I went back in. The priest beckoned me into a side chapel with a supersize crucifix at the front. Around the sides were huge music books. I tried following the Mass on my App but it was still a struggle. After Mass the handful of us who were pilgrims went down to the front. The priest read the prayer I recognised from Los Arcos then said a few words translated by his assistant. He then laid hands and prayed with each of us individually. It was lovely.

Then it was back to the Albergue with a wonderful feeling of blessing.

Thursday 27th April 2023

Distance 21.5km (13.4 ml). Total Ascent 370m (1213 ft)

Estella – Los Arcos

I was up showered and ready before it was light. I said Morning Prayer in the quiet of my room then once I could see where I was walking I was off. My day off had been a welcome reset of my purpose and enthusiasm. As I left the town it was pleasant uphill walking in the cool of the morning. I hadn’t been walking too long before I came across the famous wine fountain.

I was in two minds whether to try it, especially at quarter past seven in the morning, but in the end why not. I had a mouthful of mediocre red wine from the tap and I had ticked a Camino box. Opposite was the remains of the monastery which started the tradition before the modern wine producer took on the tradition.

As we gathered round the wine fountain – I was chatting to other pilgrims and we walked on for a while until we reached a fork in the path. At several places along the trail there are alternative routes but it’s not always straightforward when making a decision.

I continued on the path I had chosen and soon the faster walkers pulled away and left me on my own. The walking was up and down as normal but not too taxing and the weather was perfect. I ws one of those days where the views were just lined up one after the other.

As I approached Azqueta, the first village of the day there was a very picturesque castle on top of a conical hill. I must admit my first thought was, ‘I’m glad we don’t have to climb up there.’

Once through the village the views just kept coming.

The fields of wheat and yellow flowered plants gave way to more vineyards.

After going through the village of Villamayor de Montjardin and down into the down into the next valley I was looking out for a promised food truck. Thankfully it was there so got some refreshments. I did muse about the much higher prices charged at these things but reckoned they needed the premium for them to drive out to the middle of nowhere to help pilgrims. Not long after this there was a man who had a guitar but I passed by before he played and expected some money.

All through today’s walk I was still thinking about my decision not to book accommodation. I must admit I was struggling with this. I knew that it was possible to find a bed each day but walking with all this in my head sometimes stopped me from relaxing and enjoying the walk.

Finally along a valley then over a small hill and today’s destination was in sight. I had checked out what I thought was the best Albergue, Isaac Santiago, and walked through the town to the other side. It wasn’t open when I arrived but the queue was not too long to I could kind of relax, take off my boots and wait for check in.

Check in was very slow when it started and unusually I was allocated a top bunk. There was only 4 in the room so it wasn’t too bad. I did my normal housekeeping and then sat around chatting to a few other pilgrims. There was a couple from New Zealand I had met before and a young German guy. We were discussing booking or not booking and the New Zealand couple were panicking about not having anywhere to sleep, though they eventually got somewhere for the following night. All this didn’t help me to remain calm though.

I decided I would have walk around the town and check out the shops to get some food.

I wandered around and spent some time people watching from a shady bench. After a trip back to the Albergue to check if my washing had dried, to stash my shopping and have a rest and a read. I went back into the town when it was time for the Pilgrim Mass and Blessing in the church.

I have never seen such an over the top decorated church. Every surface was covered in baroque gilt sculptures and wall paintings. When I got there there were already quite a few locals there in the middle of some Marian devotion. (Rosary maybe?) I just sat and drank in the peaceful atmosphere.

When the Mass started I was trying to follow it using an App on my phone but I still struggled as everything was said so quickly in Spanish. Afterwards all the pilgrims were invited to the fron and after the priest blessed us each were given a small prayer card in our own language.

Prayer of the Pilgrims

Lord, you who recalled your servant Abraham out of
the town Ur in Chaldea and who watched over him
during all his wanderings; you who guided the Jewish
people through the desert; we also query to watch
your present servants, who for the love of your name,
make a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.
Be for us,
a companion on our journey
the guide on our intersections
the strengthening during fatigue
the fortress in danger
the resource on our itinerary
the shadow in our heat
the light in our darkness
the consolation during dejection
and the power of our intention
so that we under your guidance, safely
and unhurt, may reach the end of our journey
and strengthened with gratitude
and power, secure and filled with
happiness may join our home.
For Jesus Christ, Our Lord, Amen

Apostle James, pray for us.
Holy Virgin, pray for us.

There always seems to be encouragement when you need it.

Wednesday 26th April 2023

Distance 0km ( 0 ml). Total Ascent A load of steps up to the church)

Estella

I slept well and had a lie in. It was a real luxury not having to get up and out . I took the opportunity to empty my backpack and re-pack everything in its proper place and gather my laundry together. I decided I would use the hotel’s laundry service for a few Euros and make the most of this day off.

I walked into town to have a leisurely look around. Estella was a lovely place. I was staying in the more modern bit of the town, with retail units and modern apartment blocks but once I strolled down the hill over the river into the older part it was quite charming.

The main town was full of the archetypal narrow streets with apartments and balconies with washing strung up. It occurred to me that no one worried about their underwear being on show.

I got coffee and a pastry for breakfast. It was good to be around when there were normal Spanish people out and about. There were a variety of shops from normal to posh.

I found the church of San Pedro de la Rua up load of steps. Apparently there is a lift somewhere but I never saw it.

It was such a peaceful place. I took the opportunity to sit for a while and pray.

I felt grounded again, my purpose renewed and a new desire that God would help me let go of my fears and trust him. I felt such a deep sense of gratitude that I had the chance to make this pilgrimage. I did some more exploration around the town.

I went back to the hotel, had a lie down in the heat of the afternoon and caught up with my journal writing.. I then went to get some stuff at the big supermarket across the road. The evening came and I decided to return to the square. This time I didn’t fancy a meal and just indulged in unhealthy snacks instead. Then back to the hotel ready for a quiet night’s sleep and an early start tomorrow.