Tuesday 9th May 2023
Distance 10km / 6.2 miles
Villarmentero de Campos – Carrion de los Condes
It was a short walk today. I got ready and was able to sit on a bench at the front of the Albergue and watch the dawn lighten the sky as I said Morning prayer. There was a load of food set out on a donation basis so I was able to get breakfast before I set off. My blister though small, wasn’t healing and was a reminder of my frailty. As I walked beside the fields I was captivated by the colour and contrast of the difference between the brown and the green together with the poppies.
It was a cool morning and easy walking over the rolling hills and I arrived in Carrion de los Condes by about 10.30, far too soon for the parochial Albergue to be open.
As I had plenty of time I went into the church. It was lovely and peaceful and had some background Gregorian chant playing.
O prayed my prayers and lit a candle in front of the statue of Sancta Maria del Camino o de las Victorias. It seemed appropriate.
When I came out of the church I saw a pilgrim on a bench who looked like he was waiting for the Albergue to open. I chatted to him and discovered he was from Argentina. While we were chatting someone else arrived and started the queue for the Albergue. The queue quickly grew and was quite convivial with people coming and going as they went to get something to eat. There were quite a lot of young people including a large group of Italians. A Russian girl who I had met at the hostel in Burgos arrived too.
Opening time came soon enough and a smiling Augustinian Nun checked us in. The dormitories were very crowded with hardly any space between the bunk beds but at least I got my normal bottom bunk being an older pilgrim. The only disappointment was that there was no communal meal here. I felt a bit isolated here, this was one of those occasions where everyone seemed to know everyone else except me. I noticed a group of young people who I had seen on and off for a few days – I missed having a bond like theirs for a few moments but then remembered that my interactions seemed to be with individuals.
I had a wander round the town in the afternoon and decided I would have a picnic. I got some bread, cheese, chorizo and fruit at a supermarket and found a bench in the park beside the river.
After I had eaten I thought I would take some photos beside the river. I noticed a completely naked man having a wash beside the river bank. his was beside the bridge in the middle of a public park. Obviously the cultural norms I was used to don’t apply here.
I returned to the Albergue and had a nap. The nuns were due to say Vespers in the church at 5.30 so I went along. I was still seeking my spiritual refreshment. Yet more disappointment as when the Sisters arrived a tour guide was in full flow in the church so they turned around and disappeared. I still had the opportunity to participate in the singing session though.
The Nuns gathered in the entrance hall of the hostel and there was quite a group of pilgrims crammed into every available space. One had a guitar and they handed out song sheets. There were songs in many different languages. As they sang I really felt them not just singing but sharing their love. They asked pilgrims who wished to to sing a song – I stayed quiet at that point. They then told us that the next morning they would pray for each one of the pilgrims who stayed there that night. I had got what I was hoping for by way of spiritual uplift.
I went to the Pilgrims Mass in the church which was a incomprehensible as usual but the pilgrims blessing afterwards was sublime. One of the nuns was translating the words of the priest. He explained how important the Eucharist was then each pilgrim was given a little paper star. They had been prepared by hand by the nuns. The stars referred to the Compostella the field of stars, (MIlky Way) which has guided pilgrims for centuries. In the darkness they would follow the stars. We could look at our star and seek the guidance of God on our journey.
My initial disappointment was blown away by the intensity of emotion I felt at the love and care from the Sisters and the church. I still don’t get the devotion to Mary though. At the end of the Benediction everyone went to the statue of the Virgin where I had lit a candle in the morning and sang Salve Regina. Despite that the evening had been every bit the spiritual boost I had been looking for.
Another great day and only 401kms to go.
