Monday 15th May 2023
Distance 14km / 8.7 miles
Villar de Mazarife – Hospital de Orbigo
Thankfully today was a fresh new day. I had rested and after saying Morning Prayer I was on the pilgrim trail again. As I left the village I passed a distance marker which I felt was significant. From now on I had less than 300km to go before reaching Santiago.
I knew today was a short walk and I was feeling more relaxed even though I planned to stay at the parochial albergue which didn’t take reservations. I passed this garden in the village of Villavante which had this charming garden ornament.
More straight tracks ahead before crossing over a main road and walking through the village of Puente de Orbigo where you get the first view of the iconic bridge.
It was very early when I crossed the bridge and arrived in the village of Hospital de Orbigo. I sat on abench opposite the church to relax in the morning sun. WHo should I see but George from Liverpool again! We chatted for a while then he set off as he wasn’t staying in this village tonight.
I had a look around and then checked in as soon as I could. Today was a day for catching up with old friends as April was staying there too, who I had first met at Zabaldika on my third day.
It was a beautiful place built around a courtyard and a garden at the back. It was full of quirky sculptures, art pieces and several pieces with text about pilgrimage and the Blessed Virgin.
I had plenty of time in the afternoon to get some shopping done and something to eat. A priority was calling at a pharmacy to get something to treat my toe. I came away with plasters and a tube thing to protect it and some iodine stuff to combat the infection. I also went to a bar and had a decent meal and a beer. As I came out of there I saw a procession passing with a Saint’s statue and carrying some kind of farming implement.
In the evening at the Albergue those who wished to could gather for a special pilgrim gathering with the local priest. There was 4 or 5 pilgrims there including April. The priest only spoke Spanish so one of the hospitaleras who happened to be Hungarian translated into English. He spoke about the history of the Camino and the town and began bemoaning the fact there were fewer ‘religious’ pilgrims and more tourists. He then asked each one of us why we were on the pilgrimage and what churches we went to. April and I were both ‘Episcopalians’ and he proceeded to tell April about Luther and the Reformation. He agreed that the Catholic church needed to change then but his conclusion was that we would be better if we returned to the fold. Chatting to April afterwards I shared that it felt like he thought we were wayward children. I had a lovely conversation with April that evening which covered all kinds of subjects including biblical interpretation! Today ended we me in a much better frame of mind than yesterday.