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Slow Ways Route – Linmet one

It was a gentle start to the day today. It was lovely to share breakfast with Peter and Anny, I felt so honoured to be receiving such lovely hospitality.

It was a short walk today and I knew I would be following the Spires and Steeples trail so I was hoping for an easy day. I walked out of the village along the road but soon headed out along decent trails.

I soon came to village of Potterhanworth and of course some Spires.

I passed Hanworth Country Park with its Camping and Cafe and thought that I maybe could have stayed there if I hadn’t had something much better. It was too soon even to stop for a coffee and I certainly didn’t need a second breakfast by then.

I walked along and under the railway line then across the fields towards the village of Branston.

Another lovely village this time with spires and a steeple.

Through more beautiful countryside towards the villages of Heighington and Washingborough.

A bit of walking through the housing estates and streets of Washingborough led me to the river and my first view of Lincoln.

It was a shared cycle path into the City. It seemed like a long way since the Cathedral had been in sight for quite a time. I stopped half way for a drink and snack. I arrived at my Slow Ways destination outside the Train and Bus Stations.

I had booked a cheap AIrbnb for tonight which appeared to be quite central so I heade into the city and climbed up the notorious steep hill through the shops and crowds.

When I got to my accommodation I was horrified. It was a tiny terraced house which was dark and it smelt and when I found my room the bed was clean but the carpet wasn’t. Also the door could only be locked from the inside with a bolt. I didn’t feel safe and was very wary of leaving anything in the room if I went out.

My plan for Lincoln was to find a new pair of walking boots. Whilst my old ones I had worn in Spain were comfortable they were worn out and as I had discovered they were no longer waterproof despite me treating them. I only had limited time to get something so I set out to Go Outdoors on the edge of the City Centre all the while worrying about my stuff and not happy about the room.

I got some boots and whilst walking back I decided to cut my losses and found a room at a Travelodge. I got back to the Airbnb got all my stuff together and walked down to the hotel and booked in to somewhere I felt safe and comfortable. Thankfully later that evening I was able to get a refund from Airbnb so I went out and had a Pizza to celebrate this new milestone. It was certainly a mixed kind of day. It was psychological but the cities of Peterborough, Lincoln, York and Durham felt like natural stages on my walk. It was almost half way too so it became the Half Way point on my journey.

Slow Ways Routes – Slemet one, Linmet one

Today was a slow start as breakfast was included at Jan and Ian’s Airbnb. Also I wasn’t in a hurry as it had rained heavily and it was still raining in the morning. I got my waterproof gear on and set off only to get into the centre of the village and deciding that the rain had stopped – taking it off. I stopped at a handy shop and got some food for later on at the camp site and found my Slow Way again and back on the trail. It was Sunday but as I passed the church in Ruskington I realised that there wasn’t a church service at the right time in the right place.

The centre of the village was quite picturesque, at least I thought so.

It was soon out into the fields. Today the route was continuing along the Spires and Steeples trail. I was a lovely route through fields and pasture from village to village and of course spires and steeples. This is the view approaching Dorrington.

The village of Scopwick was very attractive.

Just outside the village of Rowston I realised that I was almost at the campsite and it was only mid morning. It seemed crazy to waste almost a whole day’s walking so I message my contacts at Nocton who said I could still stay with them that night and cancelled my camp site. I hate messing people around but decided that this was the best thing to do. It turned out well as Peter told me I would be around for the village Harvest Supper. I walked on having decided to make the village of Nocton today’s destination. Here’s the church at Blankney.

Then over a village cricket pitch and through fields of corn.

I stopped in the village of Metheringham at the Co-op fro a drink and a sandwich. This was where I was mistaken for a thief, albeit only briefly. The person at the checkout began asking me what was in my backpack and then quickly decided I was genuine. It felt a bit surreal.

I knew I had plenty of time as I didn’t have that far to go so paused for a break and continued on. The paths were quite good leading into Nocton and I arrived at the village green and let my hosts know I was there.

Peter and Anny were wonderful hosts. They gave me such a warm welcome. There house was a lovely and quirky place. It is so good to feel relaxed and not feel like you are imposing on people. The church was holding a Harvest Songs of Praise Service that evening so I was especially glad that I was able to get to a service.

It was a lovely time of singing in the church. Afterwards everyone ended up at the village hall for a Harvest Supper. I was especially glad to be included in that too. This was a small village community who enabled me to experience a Harvest Celebration such as I hadn’t had since I was a teenager. The supper was wonderful and people who met generously gave donations too. As we left I remember glancing up at the sky and noticing a wonderful black white and grey cloudscape in the gathering darkness. The day just had one wonderful surprise after another.

Slow Ways Routes Slebil one, Slemet one

I wanted to be away early to be on my way and also because I wanted to be packed up before too many people were out and about. I made sure I left no trace and started my walk though very quiet village streets.

A short stretch of footpath through some fields and then on to quiet country lanes. There was almost no traffic early on a Saturday morning and it was quite relaxing looking at the beauty of nature in the sunshine.

For a little way I joined what once had been a Roman road.

I stopped for a break in the village of Scredington where there was an attractive church and a handy bench in the sunshine.

There was such a variety of terrain as I continued on to Sleaford.

This included a very different crop in this field

My Slow Way route ended in Sleaford, at the Railway Station.

I stopped for lunch. I got some fish and chips and people watched for a while. I had booked an Airbnb room in the village of Ruskington and continued my walk. My next Slow Way mostly followed the Spires and Steeples waymarked trail. This afternoon’s walk was a lovely contrast from this morning as I was mainly walking beside the River Slea.

Because this was a Slow Way and I was walking from place to place I headed away from the river into the village of Ruskington. I found my Airbnb and what a joy. My hosts were so lovely. I wasn’t just renting a room I was welcomed almost as part of the family.

Jan made me a cup of tea and we chatted then I got myself sorted in a lovely complete annexe with private bathroom and lounge. I took some time in he evening to try and sort out where I was going to sleep tomorrow night. Yesterday Neil had contacted several people and there was a possibility of staying at the village of Nocton just past Metheringham. However I hadn’t heard anything and I got a bit anxious so decided to book at a camp site at Kirkby Green just before Metheringham. quite late on I did get an offer of staying with a family in Nocton but I emailed back and explained that I had just booked at a camp site.

Jan did some washing for me and made me a sandwich. I could have shared a family evening with them but was content to be quiet. I did say yes to an ice cream sundae though. I was completely overwhelmed by their kindness and hospitality. I had paid for a room but I got so much more!!

Slow Way Route – Boubil one

After breakfast I said my fond farewells and set off once more. The walk today was going to be one of fields and villages and most villages having a beautiful church.

I passed through the village of Haconby the footpaths taking me through different kinds of fields and with what looked like the next village appearing on the horizon.

Some fields I walked through had crops and some had been recently cultivated.

Then I approached the village of Dunsby, glad I was walking through grass to help clean the mud off my boots.

Through Dunsby and on towards Rippindale.

I stopped in Rippingdale for a short break.

Then through Graby and Dowsby. Not all the fields had obvious paths where the right of way was. These were much harder going as the soil was quite muddy and clung to my boots.

I went past Pointon and then arrived at the beautiful and tranquil Abbey Church at Sempringham.

I passed a memorial for the last Welsh Princess who was at the original Abbey nearby and then searched for the Holy Well. Sadly if this was the Holy Well it was inaccessible. I could have bathed my feet!

I finally reached my destination for today, the village of Billingborough. I was feeling tired and needed a rest. After getting some snacks at the village shop I found the Fortescue Arms pub open and serving food. Just what I needed. I had thought to head to a campsite in the village of Folkingham but decided to ask at the pub whether there were any options in the village, even if it was just a patch of grass to pitch my tent. They offered the area at the edge of there car park and after a quick look I decide to go for it. As I now knew I’s finished walking for the day I decided to treat myself to a burger and a pint.

The lads in the bar were quite taken with my challenge and I soon had another pint and £40 in donations. I’m sure after a while the whole village knew who I was and what I was doing. I hung around at the pub for the rest of the evening and got something else to eat. I didn’t want to pitch my tent before the pub shut just in case but this meant I had to wait until the karaoke finished at midnight! I pitched my tent with the aid of my head torch and settled down for the night.

I actually felt quite safe even though I was pitched close to the main street in the centre of the village.

Slow Ways Routes – Boumar one, Boubil one

The day dawned bright and sunny. I walked into the centre of Market Deeping to start my route and discovered how nice it looked. Something I hadn’t appreciated yesterday in the rain. You can see how happy I am as I pass yet another beautiful old church. I was also thankful that I had an offer of accommodation with Neil and Jackie at the vicarage in Morton – just beyond Bourne so I didn’t have to worry about that either.

My walk started on pavements to the outskirts of town where there was a further reminder that I was never far from civilisation, though I did resist the temptation of another Greggs breakfast.

It was mainly shared cycle/pedestrian paths and minor roads to the village of Langtoft.

The route joins the A15 for a very short but difficult stretch before heading through the fields to the village of Baston.

I picked up some snacks and a drink at the local Post Office and shop in Baston. I had a quick chat with the owner. I was really appreciating these small but lovely conversations. As I walked I noticed the old and the new sharing the same space. I then took the opportunity to sit in the sun and reflect.

I’m learning to embrace the flat lands of Lincolnshire. They may be flat but they are certainly not without interest. I love the trees and the hedgerows even the fields, when they are not too muddy. It doesn’t take long before a new village appears on the horizon. I had seen butterflies, snails, birds and the occasional person. Flat it may be but certainly not boring. I walked on along more minor roads, footpaths and some thick mud after yesterday’s rain.

In the village of Thurlby I had to work my way round some houses to pick up the footpath beyond as the gpx route I was following takes you through people’s houses. There were some pastures and tracks beyond Thurlby which was a welcome break from the mud.

I reached the town of Bourne, the end of this Sow Way, where there was an attractive park.

I had plenty of time today as it was not too far to the village of Morton where I was saying with Neil and Jackie at the vicarage. I took the opportunity to get some refreshment at a convenient Wetherspoons. Bourne was a bustling pleasant place.

So through more fields and I reached the village of Morton.

After trying Google maps and finally ringing Neil I arrived at the vicarage. What a wonderful welcome. It was so good to sit and chat. Neil passed on some donations that he had received too which was great and spent some time seeking other families who I might stay with in coming days. Jackie arrived and we shared a lovely meal and more conversation. I learned a lot about the reality of ministry in the Church of England that evening. All in all I was so amazed by the hospitality.

Slow Way – Marpet one

I left my Airbnb and walked back to my Slow Way route. All these extras to and from overnight accommodation add extra kilometres to my walk. It was a straightforward walk into the city centre to complete yesterday’s route Petram one. Once again there were reminders of the past among the modern streets and shops.

As I crossed over the river I noticed several tents in the park beside the river. I imagined them to be homeless people. There didn’t seem to be any attempt at stealth it was all out in the open. Perhaps there was safety in numbers. The Cathedral was impressive from this angle.

Once I got into the city centre the priority was finding breakfast. On this occasion Greggs hit the spot.

The start of today was all a bit Deja Vue really. Peterborough was a nice place but it was becoming a bit too familiar and I would be glad to be leaving and finally feeling I was making some progress after my pause.

On my way to the railway station, which was the Slow Ways starting/ending point I passed a homeless man sitting on a bench and got chatting to him. He shared part of his story with me. It was a very precious encounter and I shall remember Christopher. It was good to renew my focus on why I was walking.

My route through Peterborough was really interesting. It was like being on a world tour walking up Lincoln Road, shops, restaurants and all kinds of businesses lined the street and were represented of so many nationalities and cultures. Immigration is such a positive thing for this country. I crossed over some major roads and stopped at a retail park to put all my rain gear on and my backpack cover as the promised rain had finally arrived. There were more suburban type streets to walk through leading to some parkland with a shared cycle path.

It was then over a railway line and into the countryside walking mainly on minor roads. This was my first experience of walking in the rain on this journey. It was such a contrast to the heat wave that I started out in. When I go to the village of Glinton I was so thankful to find and open pub which was serving food. I was able to get a nice meal and charge my phone while gazing out the window at the rain. It was coming down quite heavily. I did need to continue to my Airbnb room in Market Deeping though so I reluctantly got sorted and ventured out to complete today’s walk.

It was less than ideal and it was a problem trying to keep my phone dry while trying to navigate using my OS App. I did have a waterproof pouch but I couldn’t find it! I eventually reached Market Deeping. I had reached Lincolnshire, just!

I didn’t pause in the town centre to look around. I was more interested in finding my room for the night and drying off. It was a really nice house. I had warned my host that I would be wet so she had prepared so I could hang my wet stuff over the bath. It took a while for me to dry everything, including my phone but I was certainly glad I wasn’t camping. I would have been dry in the tent but its pitching and getting in and out and packing up which puts me off.

Everything came to a head on that Thursday evening at my campsite at Glebe Farm, Kings Ripton. I knew then that I had to make decisions about my walk as I had to let people know in good time when exactly I would be finishing. My schedule was already two days behind and I knew now that my original itinerary was not working. Also the Trail Runners I had bought to replace the walking boots I had worn out in Spain just weren’t working with my feet and this walk. My blisters were not improving. That evening as I hobbled down to the toilet block I recognised there was no way I could continue like this. I was also sure that there was no way I could not finish this walk.

I had known I would have to revise my finish day almost since I cut short my walk at Watton at Stone, somehow I couldn’t see making up the time as an option. I had considered all kinds of options as I now had a booking at the Premier Inn in Peterborough on Friday which I couldn’t change. I could maybe get a bus into the city then back out and walk back there on Saturday.

The problem was that, I wasn’t sure I could physically walk even a shorter distance. So I made the decision on Thursday evening. I would get a taxi to Huntingdon on Friday, then get bus to Peterborough. I had now two nights booked at the Premier Inn. I would then get the train to Newcastle on Sunday where I could pick up my boots. Rev Danie had offered me a lift back to Peterborough on the Monday. I would then be able to visit the Oasis Community Housing Project in the afternoon then bus back to Huntingdon and taxi back to campsite. Hopefully my feet would have healed enough to continue walking on Tuesday. All in all that would mean four days rest for my feet, I hoped that this would be enough.

It all went to plan on Friday and I checked in at the hotel. One of the first things I did was have a long hot bath. This was the first one I had had in years. It was good to soak my feet. I replaced all the dressings and plasters and apart from a quick trip to the shops to stock up on more medical supplies the only time I left that room was to eat.

I got a taxi to the railway station on Sunday, then the train back to Newcastle and a taxi at the other end. I was determined to stay off my feet as much as possible. It was weird being at home when in my head I shouldn’t be there. I took the opportunity to do some washing, and re-pack my backpack. I got my boots and re-proofed them and also changed my tent. I was also quite ruthless in leaving behind things I thought I could do without. I was surprised when I weighed my pack it was lighter than I started out with even with a heavier tent.

There was still a nagging feeling in all of this that somehow I had failed, ridiculous I know, but my expectations of this walk had been well and truly shattered.

Slow Ways Routes – Stnhun one, Hunram one

It was a fine sunny morning as I woke up, but once again there was loads of condensation and therefore a wet tent. I waited as long as I could before etting off to make use of the sunshine. The campsite was on the route so I picked up the trail along through the Riverside Park towards the town centre.

Then through some narrow streets and back to the river bank. This part of the walk in the early morning sunshine was quite idyllic.

My feet weren’t too bad since I hadn’t been walking long but I was still troubled by having to wear waterproof socks because the grass was so wet. Nothing could dampen (pun intended) my joy and enthusiasm walking this section of the route.

I soon crossed over the river and walked through the village of Little Paxton. I then entered a nature reserve where there were good trails and loads of bird watching hides though I didn’t have time to stop beyond a quick drink and snack.

The trails were well marked and I found myself walking on the Ouse Valley Way. The scenery was just so wonderful, the trail had been maintained so I was able to fully appreciate nature all around me.

Of particular note were the many crab apple trees and the wonderful smell of ripe fruit.

I met a walker coming in the opposite direction who had recognised me from the campsite last night. Interestingly he is the only person I met who had already heard about Slow Ways, though he hadn’t consciously walked any routes. My feet were troubling me but I continued on trying to focus on the beauty around me. I happened to glance down at the trail and noticed a hole just as I put my foot down with wasps coming in and out. Sadly I wasn’t quick enough to avoid getting stung. Thankfully it was just one but it was really painful. It did take my mind off my feet for a while though.

I passed the villages of Offord D’arcy and Offord Cluny on the opposite bank then the trail took me through the Buckden Marina. There were lots of very nice boats, nice cars and posh chalets with a generous sprinkle of Private Property signs. I was longing for a place to sit and have some lunch but felt intimidated by the place. On the way out I found a tree stump to sit on so I settled for that and when a bench became free I moved to that and settled down for a break. I had a lovely view over the river.

I was minding my own business when a lady comes out of the nearest chalet, chats and asks me if I would like a cup of tea. Her and her husband had noticed me and felt they should offer some hospitality. Of course I accepted and explained what I was doing. I finished my lunch with a lovely cup of tea and then the husband came out and chatted too. It was so unexpected and I felt a bit ashamed for having pre-judged the residents of this place.

As I was was walking I was also going over possible changes to my itinerary. I was beginning to realise that shorter daily distances were better for me. I booked a room at the city centre Premier Inn in Peterborough on Friday night and thought about maybe getting a bus to take advantage of the booking then maybe getting a bus back on Saturday then walking back to Peterborough. All these things were going through my head but on I walked. I did come up with a plan but more about that later.

I continued along the river and then left it to make my way into the town of Huntingdon. As I was waiting to cross the road at a busy junction a lady came up behind me and engaged me in conversation. We talked about fund raising and how she had done some sponsored walking recently. We walked together towards the town centre and I learnt that she was a Ukrainian who had been in the country for 30 years and heard how she had managed to get her father out of the country when the war started. Her name is Alla and now we are Facebook friends.

I arrived in the centre of Huntingdon which was the end of this Slow Way and had a short break in the square. I needed to give my feet a rest as I still had a way to go to get to my campsite in the village of Kings Ripton. Huntingdon seemed to be making the most of it’s connections to Oliver Cromwell and I felt quite proud to be sitting on this bench in a coronation year!

I set off again and walked uphill through Huntingdon and out into the fields. I was walking along a busy road and thankfully for the first half I could walk on a footpath beside it. I passed the crematorium and from then on as far as the campsite I was backwards and forwards on and off the grass verge to avoid the traffic. The campsite was quite nice and had lovely hot showers and clean toilets and even a socket to charge my phone.

I checked my feet and found they were a lot worse than I thought. I had to make some radical decisions, but more of that in the next exciting instalment.