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Tuesday 6th June 2023

Paris – London

After a seemingly long time getting through the rush hour traffic into the centre of Paris we finally arrived at the Coach Station. After finding refreshment and facilities at the railway station up the road I felt a bit more human and decided I had loads of time so I would walk to the Gare de Nord to get my Eurostar train back to London. This was my first visit to Paris, though I still wasn’t in full tourist mode yet.

Walking beside the river was lovely. I saw Notre Dame in the distance but walked on as they are still repairing it.

Along the river I passed by loads of tents where homeless were sleeping at night. There was no attempt to hide away. I was reminded of my daily prayers for Oasis Community Housing and my thoughts turned to the walk from London to Gateshead which was rattling around in my head.

I passed by the Tower of Saint James which marks the start of the Pilgrimage Route to Santiago from Paris.

On the way to the station I passed the Hotel de Ville and the Pompidou Centre

A short train ride later and I was back in London and a great get togther with Christopher Jonathan and Caitlin. It was good to be back!

Monday 5th June 2023

Distance – A long Way

Santiago de Compostela – Paris

Packing up for the final time I reflected on what a wonderful experience this had been, though I was stilll having problems comprehending what I had done over the last six weeks. I had stepped out of normal life into a different world. I had been part of a bubble of people, a community with a single destination and a multitude of motivations. I had designated my Camino as a Religious Pilgrimage. It was a journey framed by daily prayer and a ‘serious seeking after God’. Now it was ending, today I would begin my journey home back to real life.

I said Morning Prayer and headed to the Cathedral. I couldn’t go home without paying my respects to Saint James. I arrived during an early morning Mass. I sat quietly appreciating the peace and the rhythms of worship. I don’t suppose I will be experiencing a Roman Catholic Mass again but sharing these times with my brothers and sisters on my Pilgrimage has been an important part of my experience. After the end I had a look round the Cathedral.

I found the entrance to the crypt and the silver casket holding the precious relics of Saint James. It didn’t seem to me to be the pace to take photos so I stood quietly in a niche and prayed for family and for the people of St Albans and St Johns churches. This felt like yet another final act on this journey, ending wasn’t a one off event.

Once I left the Cathedral I was focussed on leaving then. I returned to the Albergue, retrieved my backpack from the left luggage locker and headed to the bus station. I climbed on the bus ready for my 21 hour plus journey to Paris. There were plenty of stops on the way, thankfully but nothing really makes a journey like that pleasant. It was good to gaze out of the window and realise how far I’d walked and how quickly I was returning.

At the border with France, we all had to get off the bus while the French police checked for drugs, I was definitely back in the real world now.

Sunday 4th June 2023

Only walking around the city

Santiago de Compostela

I had finished my walking but the pilgrimage wasn’t over yet. There were two big things to do today meet Frank (the lad I’d given my stone to), for breakfast and go the the Eucharist at the Anglican church. It was good not to have to pack up this morning as I was here for another night. I said Morning Prayer in my room and set off to meet Frank.

The City was very quiet on an early Sunday morning and as I passed through the main square I thought I needed a selfie – looking happy or what?

I met Frank and we caught up with what had happened over the last few days. He shared some of the photos he had taken as he had journeyed on through Santiago to the coast. I was so thankful to share precious moments with Frank and be a part of his spiritual journey too.

We said our final farewells and I had time to meander around the city taking in the sights and sounds as it got busier. I did think about visiting the Cathedral but the crowds and the queues were so long I reckoned it would be better to wait for a quieter time. I headed to the park where the church was and had time to sit on a bench and think while watching the world go by.

I had an idea of what next for me by now. It was very much about starting from where I had left off before this Camino. There wasn’t a sense of some radical new direction but more a continuation of the general direction of my life. I had received an understanding of the phrase ‘Keep us, O Lord, …… in an affectionate walking with you’. I had found inspiration in the writings of Franciscans and the rule of those in their Third Order. There was plenty to consider in the days and weeks ahead.

It was time for the Eucharist and whilst there were just a handful of us, rather than the hundreds who would be at the Pilgrim’s Mass at the Cathedral this felt like real ending of my Pilgrimage. This was what I had walked 800 kilometres and over 500 miles for. This was such a sublime and precious time – in the peace of this place I felt such a sense of joy, this was the culmination of my journey.

The Post Communion Prayer summed it up.

Generous and faithful God, you have fed us at your table. May the nourishment we have received enable us to enrich the lives of others wherever we may go from here. Whether the future be dark or bright, the road be smooth or rough, whether our cares be light or heavy, our song be strong or weak, keep our hearts warm and our hands open, our lives embracing and ever embraced by your love. Amen.

St Susana’s Anglican Church. Santiago de Compostela

Saturday 3rd June 2023

Distance 5km / 3.1 miles

Monte del Gozo – Santiago de Compostela

I could have taken my time this morning, but I needed to finish this. I was up at the crack of dawn as usual and sat in the main square of the complex to say Morning Prayer. I suppose I was excited but to be honest I am not sure what was going on im my head. I had to face up to what this journey was about – to draw some meaning from it.

I walked down the hill and into the outskirts of the city. It was only 07.21 when I arrived at the city proper.

I walked on, taking my time. There weren’t very many people around. I followed the arrows and waymarks for the last time and arrived at the Praza de Obradoiro and the official end of my pilgrimage. I stood there gazing at the west end of the Cathedral and I felt a sense of acheivement and relief. No joy, no excitement, no jumping up and down just a sense of thankfulness that I had been able to do this. I almost felt there was something wrong. I sat for a long time just being quiet watching other pilgrims arrive and being happy and excited. I’d walked 800 kilometres over 45 days and I wasn’t sure what I should be feeling.

The Pilgrims Office opened at 09.00 so I set off to get my Compostela and my certificate of distance. On the way I passed an open cafe/bar and got a decent breakfast. This was their answer to a ‘Full English’.

Armed with the proof that I had completed the pilgrimage I returned to the square. It is normal to attend the 12.00 Pilgrim’s Mass in the Cathedral but the day I arrrive they decide to install the new Archbishop so the Cathedral was out of bounds apart from the great and the good who had tickets. I did catch him arriving in procession, not at all like the procession I was expecting it all seemed a bit chaotic. They all disappeared into the Cathedral and I decided I would have a look around. I still had plenty of time before I could check in to my hostel.

The city was beautiful lots of imposing buildings and lots of tourists too.

I found my hostel, part of a seminary and checked in. I had treated myself to a single room for two nights so it was good to settle a bit.

Once I was sorted I set off to see a bit more of the city and to find the Anglican church which was in a park on the other side of the city centre. It was a lovely park with views back over the city.

I found the church which was open for people to go in and pray. I took the opportunity to sit and think as well as pray. I was still seeking some idea of what this pilgrimage was for. That sounds odd now I think about it, there was no one thing I wanted from God, no life changing decisions I needed to make. I’d walked all this way and now it’s over I am not sure why! As I was thinking I heard thunder which got louder and more frequent. I thought I would try and get back to the hostel before the rain, unsuccessfully as it happened so for the first and last time on the Camino I got completely soaked.

Friday 2nd June 2023

Distance 22.6 km / 14 miles

Salceda – Monte del Gozo

I was up early as today was a longer day – about twice as long as the previous ones. I said Morning Prayer in my room then set off. The sky was brightening as I walked beside the road past fields.

I was going to miss the beautiful sunrises.

I passed through the busy town of O Pedrouzo without stopping and continued on. There were more bars and cafes the closer you got to Santiago and certainly more pilgrims. As the morning wore on it got busier and busier and noisier too. There was a couple in front of me walking with their music playing for all to hear. Though it was very different to the peace and quiet of the earlier days I treated it as a gradual acclimatisation to normal life.

There were a succesion of villages and lots of ups and downs. I stopped at a bar called Kilometre 15 which made it quite obvious how far there was left. I met some british women here who I had last seen when we stayed at the same Albergue on Day two.

I passed the Airport and headed down into the village of Lavacolla. There were loads of people crowded in the bars and cafes here. I headed for the tiny Chapel of St Roque where it was much quieter and took time to pray. It was then more climbing first up one hill in the shade and then a further climb which never seemed to end to the summit of Monte Gozo.

I had my first view of Santiago with it’s Cathedral. The end was now literally in sight.

I didn’t want to arrive in Santiago until tomorrow so I had booked a bed in a huge pilgrim complex just on the hillsid overlooking the city. There was block upon block of dormitories with a central plaza with restaurants and other amenities. I kind of thought it was a bit like Butlins of the Camino – minus the entertainment and and funfair. While I was waiting for check in I put everything I could in the dyer at the launderette which gave me peace of mind as far as bed bugs were concerned. I also had a drink and a sandwich. After a rest in the afternoon I returned for a proper meal that evening.

I had time to think about what my pilgrimage was all about but didn’t come to any conclusions.

Thursday 1st June 2023

Distance 14km / 8.7 miles

Ribadiso da Baixo – Salceda

I woke this morning to discover more bites on my arm and some on my stomach too. It was a but worrying and I was concerned that this was going to spoil the final days of my journey. At this stage there wasn’t anything I could do so I applied more cream and took more tablets. I continued with my routine and sat beside the river and said Morning Prayer. Whatever else was going on this was why I was walking, it may have been a pilgrimage to Santiago but I was very consciously now walking with God.

I climbed the hill out of the village and was able to enjoy a beautiful sunrise over the valley. The colours of the sky just took my breath away, though maybe the steep hill had something to do with it.

I walked into the town of Arzua hoping to find a laundrette which Google told me would be there, Sadly on this occasion Google was wrong. I had gleaned from forums that the best way of eradicating bed bugs was to put clothes and bedding through a very hot tumble drier. I continued on through more beautiful scenery.

I had booked a hotel room for tonight and once I arrived there I got some breakfast and waited until I could check in. It was a good room with and en-suite bathroom. I could get my stuff sorted and the things which needed to be heat treated in separate dry bags. As the restaurant at this hotel was branded as a Pulperia specialising in Octopus I decided that this was the time to try it. It turned out to be something I wouldn’t have again and I was glad of the bread and wine which came with it. On principal I eat it all.

I only now had one more stop before I reached the end of my journey.

Wednesday 31st May 2023

Distance 11.1km / 6.9 miles

Melide – Ribadiso da Baixo

The day began with itching. I noticed some raised bumps on my arm which seemed to be getting more uncomfortable all the time. I suspected bed bugs but did not do what the guides told me to do and report it to the Hospitalera. I regretted having chosen a normal single bed with an uncovered mattress rather than the plastic covered mattresses of the bunk beds, I persuaded myself it was not bed bugs and continued with my morning routine of getting ready and saying Morning Prayer as I set off.

It became clear as I walked that this showed every sign of bed bugs. I applied some hydrocortisone cream which I applied and some anti-histamine tablets so it took the edge off the itch and consoled myself that there were only a couple of bites so maybe it waasn’t bed bugs and if it was I had escaped lightly.

The walk was over hills and through valleys which were heavily wooded. I came to some stepping stones over a stream which was a perfect spot to take a photo or two.

As I walked on I began a conversation with the young man I had seen crossing the stepping stones. The conversation turned very quickly to quite deep things which happens on the Camino. I felt certain that he, Frank was the person I should give my ‘stone’ to.

This ‘stone’ was a small flat pebble with “Be Still” written on one side and “and know that I am God” written on the other. I had been given it whilst I was satying in the retreat house on Holy Island last year. It had been given to that person as she battled with cancer. I had taken it with me on the Camino because I felt it was time to pass it on to someone else. So far I had not come across the right person but now only a few days before the end I knew that Frank was the right person. It was such a sublime moment. We continued our conversation for a while and the we parted as he was walking much faster than me.

I continued on and came to the little village of Ribadiso. Once again I was early but was able to have coffee and pastries at the bar next to the Albergue.

It was a beautifully converted collection of buildings and modern showers and toilets. I had a great conversation with one of the volunteer Hospitaleras. Today was proving to be one of deep conversations. I was happy that my day had turned out so much better than I expected.

Today was also the anniversary of John’s death. I wasn’t feeling sad as such as those last weeks in the hospice were some of the most precious times we had. I remembered how I had already started thinking about this pilgrimage and was telling him about my dreams. It didn’t seem to affect either of us knowing he would no longer be around when I did it or indeed the fact that he couldn’t walk at all. We were just living each day in the present while we could.

Tuesday 30th May 2023

Distance 14.7km / 9.13 miles

Palas de Rei – Melide

Morning Prayer on a bench in the square then off I go. Today was another walk through low hills and valleys and lots of woodland. The highlight of today was catching the scent of Eucalyptus. These trees were becoming more common as I got closer to Santiago. Apart from the Eucalyptus there were times when I could have been walking in this country.

I stopped for breakfast at a bar along the way but was soon arriving in the town of Melide.

As I was too early to check in I grabbed some food from a supermarket and sat on a bench and people watched. I saw so many pilgrims passing it felt a bit weird that I was finished walking for the day. I had booked an Albergue which turned out to be what looked like a garage door in a row of unremarkable shops. It was however lovely inside very modern and well appointed. I used the washing machine to get some laundry done and put it out in the garden to dry as by now the sun had come out.

I chilled out and read for a while and as soon as I could I went out for something to eat. I found a really nice Pizza place and had a lovely meal. This town was famous for it Pulperias, (Octopus restaurants), but I decided to put that off for another day.

Monday 29th May 2023

Distance 13.1km / 8.13 miles

Hospital de la Cruz – Palas de Rei

There were only five of us in the Albergue last night. Somehow that added to the relaxed feeling when I got up the next morning.There is something about my short walks which is causing me to relax more. I am sure that physically I am now attuned to the journey and the daily walking and my feet were free of any blisters or discomfort. I said Morning Prayer as I sat on a low wall beside the Albergue and then set out through the morning mist.

There is something special about walking when you can only see for a short distance around you. Your attention is no longer drawn towards the views and the countryside it leads to more of an inward gaze, and opportunity to let your thoughts wander. This was another day when I was very conscious of walking with God, nothing obvious, or overt just that consciousness.

Once again the mist began to lift and the sun began to break through. The walking was just so relaxing through beautiful countryside and woodland

Once again I arrived at my destination very early. As I walked into the town of Palas de Rei I passed and open church and went in to pray. It was an old church but very much geared up to reach out to pilgrims with a little bowl of paper slips each of which had a different bible verse. I continued on and arrived at the Albergue. For once I wasn’t the first there. I chatted to a couple of other pilgrims as we waited for it to open. After checking in I had a look around the town and got some salad and snacks for my meal. It was good to rest after my long walk! I continued with some reading and a bit of thinking.

Sunday 28th May 2023

Distance 11.2km / 6.9 miles

Portomarin – Hospital de la Cruz

Today I continued the theme of very short walks. I left the Albergue and stopped in the main square to say Morning Prayer. I had taken my time this morning so dawn had already come. The sun however remained behind the cloud and thick mist. There wasn’t much of a view as it was misty or foggy however you want to describe it. I walked down though the town into the valley. I was surrounded by quite quite a lot of people and was conscious what a collective endeavour this pilgrimage was, there is something special about having a very personal journey as part of a community.

It was a stiff walk up from the valley floor through the woods. The landscape opened out and the mist was lifting. I stopped for breakfast at a very busy cafe – it was almost industrial in scale. I started noticing more British pilgrims today too

I continued on and arrived at my chosen Municipal Albergue at 10:10. This was certainly a weird kind of walk with more sitting than walking.

What all this down time did give me was plenty of time to think. I was ‘much exercised’ about what my future life might be like. This isn’t some ‘New Year Resolution’ moment. I wasn’t unhappy about my life, indeed I am happy to tell anyone that Retirement is great and I am having the best time of my life. I was conscious though that this pilgrimage was an opportunity to consider what might be next on my faith journey.

I was looking forward to getting home and resuming my retirement projects, my garden, my family history and more walking of course. On top of this though something had changed over the past year. That fateful day just over a year ago when God was suddenly there in my life again had opened up a whole new way of life and looking at the world. This was the start, (or the resumption) of a journey of faith, a pilgrimage. Last year I discovered a connection to Saint Cuthbert, the beginnings of daily prayer and attending my local Parish Church. This wasn’t about picking up where I had left off either the faith of my childhood and teens, or the faith of my later life, I was conscious of this being something completely fresh even if it did incorporate some things of my past.

I wanted to make the most of the time I had left. What would be the next steps of my life, what direction would my journey of faith take me on my return to normal life. There were no firm answers just the beginnings of some ideas. I began researching a bit more about the Franciscan Third Order, feeling that there was something there which could help me.

Saturday 27th May 2023

Distance 8.5km / 5.2 miles

Ferreiros – Portomarin

This was a very relaxed day on account of just having a couple of hours walk to my destination. It is a strange end to my Camino. I don’t want to arrive in Santiago before next Saturday. I have a whole week of short walks with plenty of time to sit and wait, sit and think, and sleep and doze.

I have time as I walk to think too. The walking is not too challenging and I am so happy to have ‘discovered’ the joy of walking with God. It sounds grander than it is but it is just a sense of joy and peace knowing that He is there.

Just outside the village of Ferreiros I pass a significant milestone. Only one hundred kilometres to go!

It gives a bit more urgency to my thinking. I think about what kind of life I should live on my return home. I do have some changes to make as this faith of mine has made me feel much better about myself.

I could see the mist and cloud in the valley below which had not yet been burnt off by the sun. There were also more and more of these iconic Galician grain stores too. They came in all shapes and sizes.

I began thinking about my daily prayer and felt an urge to add to my habit of Morning Prayer. I had reminded myself a few days ago of a visit when I was at University to the Franciscan Friary at Alnmouth. It set me off thinking about their daily cycle of prayer. There is a certain attractiveness to the structure of this. Is that something I could aspire to. I was clear in my mind that I didn’t want to set myself unattainable goals so if it happens it will happen gradually I think.

I had begun thinking about my garden too. I have passed so many vegetable plots on my pilgrimage and each time I think of my poor neglected garden and there is a longing to get back to it. I want to to spend more time growing and eating vegetables; looking and smelling flowers; sitting on my seat and giving thanks for the goodness of God.

As I approached Portomarin the mist had almost gone.

When I arrive in the town it is so quiet. Being a Saturday helps I suppose but it’s probably more to do with the fact that the pilgrims who stayed last night have mostly left and today’s pilgrims haven’t arrived yet. I look around the town and then pop into a bar for a coffee and Napoletana.

Today has been a day of wonderful views and the views from the town across the valley are great.

I get checked in to the Municipal Albergue and do my normal housekeeping. More time to sit in the sunshine and just relax. I could see the clouds building up and the forecast was for thunderstorms. I got my washing in off the line and thought I would head out for a proper meal. Just as I reached the restaurant the promised thunderstorm arrived and the rain was torrential. Everyone headed inside. A pizza and a beer later I headed back to the hostel.

It had been a good thinking day. It will be good to get back to normal life again. In a sense I knew I needed to get my life back as this pilgrimage had been dominating my thoughts for so long. I wasn’t in a hurry to finish it but I think I was ready to get back to my own house.

Friday 26th May 2023

Distance 13.4km / 8.3 miles

Sarria – Ferreiros

Today was the beginning of the final ‘stage’ of the Camino Frances. The Cathedral at Santiago has decreed that you have to walk at least 100km to receive the official Compostela. This provides proof you are an official pilgrim among other things. This does mean that there are many thousands of pilgrims who start at Sarria which is the biggest town near this point at 113km from Santiago. All the videos, blogs and guides talk about this last section as crowded and with less opportunities for quiet reflection. They also gave warnings about limited accommodation and the necessity of booking. This did start raising concerns which I thought I had got over.

To counter this I was walking short distances now. I had booked two nights at an Albergue in Santiago and wanted to take the rest of my journey quite slowly so I didn’t arrive too early. I as usual set out at dawn and stopped a few metres up the hill, beside a church to say Morning Prayer. I was interrupted by a few spots of rain so I put my waterproof jacket on and backpack cover before continuing. I noticed far more pilgrims than I was used to. I was going to use as many Municipal hostels as possible from now on and I had identified the one at Ferreiros as my destination of choice. We went over the brow of the hill and into a beautiful wooded valley before going up again and over some rolling hills.

I found the scenery very like the countryside at home. Pastures, woodland, rolling hills.

Today was a day of country smells, not too many wildflowers, but wonderful walking. The weather was cool and threatened rain a few times, but whilst it was overcast it did not come to anything.

I arrived at my destination just two and a quarter hours before it opened and I was first in the queue! As I walked it did prey on my mind a bit that I wasn’t booking anywhere but it seemed to be working out ok.

I had plenty of time to sit and think. My thoughts were being pulled towards what the result of this pilgrimage might be. There have been experiences, but if this is a metaphor of life, maybe I shouldn’t focus on living from one experience to another. Over the last couple of days I have felt more of a sense of just enjoying walking with God. Is this the ‘walking amiably with Him’ which I have prayed about so many times? I haven’t expected any great revelation though there is still time.

Thinking about my arrival in Santiago, I want to pay my respects to Saint James, go to Pilgrim Mass and hopefully attend an Anglican service on the Sunday. I suspect I won’t feel any more like a tourist when I get there.

Thursday 25th May 2023

Distance 15.2km / 9.4 miles

Samos – Sarria

I woke early and once again said Morning Prayer at dawn, with the noise of the river all that disturbed the peace of the day. I think this is closest I’ll come to saying Morning Prayer in a monastery. I set off through the town and along the river.

Once again it was beautiful walking through wooded valleys. The only drawback was a lack of open cafes which meant no breakfast today!

It didn’t seem that long before I arrived at Sarria. This was a very busy pilgrim town, traditionally the starting point for the thousands who just walk the last one hundred kilometres of the Camino. I had booked my bed but there seemed plenty of beds available. From here the guidebooks talk of the necessity of booking ahead since the Camino gets very busy. I chose to walk short days and finish early instead.

I wandered around the town, it felt a bit nondescript with little history left to see. I had a nice meal of Hake and Chips followed by Santiago Cake. The cake was similar to the Basque cake I had had in the Pyrenees. I then found a shop to stock up on Pepsi and snacks. The Albergue was great and spent a large part of the evening lying on my bunk and reading even dozing off at one point.

Wednesday 24th May 2023

Distance 10.5km / 6.5 miles

Tricastela – Samos

I was making the most of the time I had left on my journey to walk shorter days and after Morning Prayer I set of down the valley towards Samos with it’s famous Benedictine monastery. The scenery was beautiful as I walked through beautiful wooded valleys.

The scenery if not the photos was picture postcard perfect.

Every time I pass rivers and streams with still water I call to mind the words of Psalm 23

He leads me beside still waters,
He restores my soul

Psalm 23:2-3

It was only 09.30am and I climbed out of a valley and over the ridge to see Samos below me. It is such a beautiful location.

Walking down into the village it just gets better.

I stopped at a bar and had coffee and a Napoletana then went for a wander round the village.

I had plenty of time today so I went to the Monastery and booked a tour and had a look round their gift shop. My first impressions weren’t good as the monk in charge of the gift shop seemed really grumpy.

I got my ticket for the next tour. The buildings were impressive but largely the result of re-building after a fire in recent centuries.

The tour was only in Spanish but thankfully one of the visitors was translating as we walked around. It was still a working monastery but the ten monks and novices were in a closed off section. I couldn’t help but contrast it with the Benedictine monastery as Rabanal del Camino where we could share in their spiritual life. There were some great murals around the cloister, many of them depicting the life of St Benedict.

We had a look at the sacristy

Then ended the main tour in the church which though spectacular , didn’t move me somehow.

I checked in to the Albergue which was underneath the church. It was very basic but just what was needed. I went out for a meal in the evening. I was disappointed that there was not the opportunity to take part in a service. All in all while the day overall was great – I didn’t get the experience I was hoping for at the monastery.

Tuesday 23rd May 2023

Distance 21km / 13 miles

O Cebreiro – Tricastela

I woke up really early today, mainly because everyone else in the room seem to be up and about before 06.00. So I got up too, got packed and found a bench outside to say Morning Prayer. It was one of the most sublime experiences of my journey as I gazed out and was awed by being above the clouds as dawn broke. I’m not experienced with being at the top of mountains and this was a special experience.

I needed to start walking though.

I walked on and as I descended I walked through the clouds. So from sublime moments of being above the clouds to struggling to find me way though dense cloud I came out into the sunshine. A life lesson there maybe?

It certainly wasn’t downhill all the way though, there were plenty of ups and downs including some really steep, though mercifully short climbs. There were also times when I was back in cloud. I stopped for some breakfast at a bar on my way and continued.

I met someone I had chatted to at the Albergue at Rabanal and continued on down towards my destination. It was beautiful walking.

I finally arrived at my chosen destination. The Municipal Albergue at Tricastela. I had decided to use these municipal hotels in Galicia as they were cheap, only eight euros per night and didn’t take reservations. For this last section of my pilgrimage I was walking shorter distances and could be fairly sure there would always be beds available. Today I was the first in the queue!

I did some washing and hung it out -only for it to get wet! Galicia being in the North-West of Spain gets quite a lot of rain. Today was my first experience of fine days then clouds build up and it rains in the evening. It didn’t last too long and I was able to get out, get something to eat and go to the shop and stock up on snacks etc.

I had a pleasant sociable evening chatting to other pilgrims in the lounge area.

Monday 22nd May 2023

Distance 18.4km / 11.4 miles. Ascent 650m / 2132ft

Trabadelo – O Cebreiro

Today was supposed to be the toughest climb of the Camino and I hadn’t booked any accommodation. I was somehow a bit more relaxed today though. I said Morning Prayer in the quiet of my room and set out as soon as it was light enough to see and enjoy my walk. I started today continuing along the Valley of Valcarce. I was walking in shadow for a lot of this first section and began musing about “walking through the valley of the shadow of death.” not in a morbid way though.

For a lot of the way as you walked along the old quiet road you could see the newer dual carriageway up above.

I stopped at a bar and had a coffee and the biggest bocadillo I had seen. I was expecting something small for breakfast but this turned out to be brunch in a sandwich. As I walked further up the valley towards the village of Las Herrerias where I would start my steep climb the views opened out.

I climbed out of the village on the road.

I left the road turning down onto the footpath. It seemed counter intuitive to be going down in order to start a mountain climb. The path to start with was through woodland. It was very steep and every bit as challenging as expected. I stopped often to rest. I wasn’t the fastest as several, much younger people, I hasten to add passed me, neither was I the slowest. As I climbed further the views opened out.

I crossed the border into the province of Galicia and looked back. It was somehow significant as this felt like the beginning of the end.

Eventually I reached the village of O Cebreiro on the mountain top which was my destination for today. I was so thankful to have managed the climb up the mountain and to get there in a reasonable time. It was about noon and I walked through the village to the Municipal Albergue to make sure I got a bed. As it happened I needn’t have worried as there was plenty of room. When I arrived I was about number 35 in the queue, though more kept coming as I waited.

The view from the Albergue was awesome.

I got myself settled and showered and did my laundry then walked back into the village to get a drink and something to eat. In the end I bought food at the local shiop and got a beer. I had to have an Estrella de Galicia to celebrate my arrival in the final Province of my walk.

The village itself was picture postcard perfect though quite touristy.

I checked out the church, saying a quick prayer and decided to return later for the Pilgrim’s Mass and Benediction.

The Mass was wonderful and I do remember feeling the drops of Holy Water as the priest blessed the congregation. The Benediction was sublime. The pilgrims gathered around the altar at the front of the church, then after a short talk about the love of God, one person from each nationality / language was invited forward to read a prayer. I was chosen as the English representative. It was a powerful moment. Finally each of us were given a tiny pebble with a yellow cross painted on. I still have that as a memento of that day. A physical, mental and a spiritual high!

Sunday 21st May 2023

Distance 18.2km / 11.3 Miles, Ascent at least 500m / 1640ft

Cacabelos – Trabadelo

The day began early as usual, finding a quiet bench to say Morning Prayer as dawn broke before setting off. I walked through the town and over the bridge into the rolling hills which were mainly covered by vineyards.

It was then down into the valley and the lovely town of Villafranca del Bierzo. I passed the Door of Forgiveness where medieval pilgrims who couldn’t make it to Santiago could receive absolution and a compostela.

There were other beautiful buildings like this castle and convent.

After I crossed the bridge over the river with it’s distinctive modern statue, (above), I had a decision to make. I could take the easier route along the valley floor or the scenic route along the mountain ridge over the Alto de Pradela. I chose the scenic route. It was challenging to say the least but produced some of the most breathtaking views of the who pilgrimage.

I detoured to the little village of Pradela where there was an Albergue with a bar where I had some much needed refreshment. From here it was downhill which was every but as challenging as the initial climb if not quite as exhausting.

I finally saw my destination, the village of Trabadelo where I had booked a hotel room.

It was one of the posher places I stayed in and got an air conditioned room with en-suite and a view overlooking the river

I was so glad I had accepted the challenge of the scenic route. This was the most difficult climb since I crossed the Pyrenees on the first day. I was just overwhelmed with the mountain scenery. I was glad too of the practice as I knew I would have to climb that and more tomorrow. I relaxed and enjoyed a lovely meal of the day and wine then got some well earned sleep.

Friday 19th May 2023

Distance 15.2km / 9.4 miles

El Acebo – Ponferrada

Today was all about walking downhill though it certainly wasn’t downhill in terms of mood. As I negotiated the often difficult paths the views just kept on giving.

I passed a little open chapel in the hamlet of Riego de Ambrós and stopped for a quick prayer. Then it was through some lovely woodland. The paths down the mountain were some of the most challenging walking so far and I was going slowly and carefully, grateful for my poles.

The views were great

Once down the mountain I walked through the village of Molinaseca and over some low hills until I saw Ponferrada in the distance.

After a stretch of road walking and a short climb I arrived at the town centre and it’s impressive Templar Castle.

The town was bustling, modern and full of tourists. I stopped and did some shopping before checking in to my Albergue. It was a parochial one but very different in character to last night. It was large and modern and didn’t provide any food. The accommodation was great though I I did spend some time in the garden and in an old church beside the hostel. It was lovely and peaceful and had some beautiful modern painted decoration.

I almost looked around the castle but it was closed. Today gave me an opportunity to rest and reflect on the last couple of days.

Thursday 18th May 2023

Distance 16.6km / 10.3 miles.

Rabanal del Camino – El Acebo

Today started so well. Albergue Guacelmo is such a special place. Unusually I was the last one up in the morning and even got to put the light on to pack. 06.45 and I was all packed and ready. I went downstairs and realised that breakfast was provided, how had I missed that. So I stopped for breakfast. I knew today’s walk was not a long one so felt relaxed about not setting off straight away. Breakfast was bread and marmalade and tea, such good tea. Jean and Paul the hosts were so lovely and easy to speak to. I had received five star service, over and above what was normal.

It was a struggle to leave. I half said morning prayer in the garden then decided I needed to set off. I said my final farewells with a hug and a handshake. It was a fairly gentle climb out of the village but it was cold, there was frost on the ground.

The views were sublime, woodland, scrub and view after view of forested hillsides and valleys. I said Morning Prayer as I walked – it was Ascension Day and I felt like I was my own mount of Ascension.

I noticed today that the bushes which had been yellow broom so far were white. Also as I walked there was a wonderful smell of wild thyme and pine, what a glorious day.

I climbed up through the village of Foncebadon up to pretty much the highest point of the Camino. The Cruz de Ferro. Traditionally at least in modern times pilgrims leave a stone here which they have brought from home, with different symbolism for each person. I left a pink granite stone from the Cheviots- to symbolise a pilgrim from the land of St Cuthbert.

The rest of my walk today was downhill and the views kept coming. My only struggle was trying to think kindly of a very loud group of pilgrims who were disturbing my peace.

I eventually reached my destination for today at El Acebo. It was a really quaint village with lots of restored houses and yet more awesome views.

I wanted to stay at the parochial hostel but there was quite a bit of time to wait before it opened.

While I was sitting in the sun the Hospitalero came up to me and said he would check me in early which was really nice. When I asked about an evening meal he said he was only providing breakfast. I got my bunk and got my chores done then went for a walk around the town and had a beer. By the time I got back an evening meal was now being provided. The hostel filled up and the meal was great. Very simple stew of chorizo and potatoes but made special by the people.

After he meal he ushered us all out to the edge of the village to see the sunset. This proved to be one of the most sublime moments of my whole pilgrimage. There was a cross which provided the foreground to the sun setting over the mountains and to be there with pilgrims from all over the world was so special.

A day of spiritual, emotional, and physical highs.

Wednesday 17th May 2023

Distance 20km / 12.4 miles.

Astorga – Rabanal del Camino

After leaving the city it was a gentle downhill walk past a hermitage where I was able to say a brief prayer. The trail was fairly flat at this stage though you soon began to climb. There were a succession of small villages which provided some extra interest. We were walking through more scrubland now and I noticed a change in the vegetation. It was a beautiful walk and the views opened up the higher we got. I saw my companions from yesterday but we didn’t chat beyond exchanging greetings, it was as if we had exhausted all that we wished to say yesterday.

We continued climbing into the mountains and walked through some exquisite woodland paths.

On the approach to the village of Rabanal I noticed fields with grass and cows grazing, it made such a change. The village was very quaint. There were a lot of restored houses and cobbled streets. I found my Albergue where I wanted to stay. As usual I was there too early so had a change to sit in the sun and also to visit the church opposite the hostel. It was lovely and there was a really peaceful atmosphere there. I took the opportunity to pray.

Once the hostel was open I checked in. This hostel was looked after by volunteers from the Confraternity of St James which is the organisation supporting pilgrims in this country. It was really nice to speak to people in English! I got sorted and made the most of the lovely garden. One of the highlights was afternoon tea in the garden with Yorkshire Tea and local biscuits with honey.

There was a Benedictine Monastery next door and I went across to the church for Vespers and later for Compline. There is something timeless and wonderful about black robed monks saying and singing the Divine Office. Interestingly much of the services was in Latin which I could follow easier than the Spanish bits. It cooled down rapidly as the sun set and it was great that the hostel had a lounge area with a real fire. It was great to sit and chat with other pilgrims.

This was such a special place. Everything came together to make it a ‘perfect day’.

Tuesday 16th May 2023

Distance 16.6km / 10.3 miles

Hospital de Orbigo – Astorga

I woke refreshed in every way and after Morning Prayer in the very cool garden of the Albergue I made sure I thanked the volunteers as I left the Albergue. I often think they don’t get the credit they deserve. I walked on and stopped at a nice bar in the village of Villares de Orbigo for breakfast. A change from Napoletana.

The trail began to climb as I left the village.

It was at this point I got chatting to a man from Ireland who was in occasional company with another man. My fading memory has left me without names or even the nationality of the other man who admittedly didn’t say much. The morning passed quite quickly as the conversation flowed. On the way I was captivated by the colours of the poppies and other flowers in the fields contrasting with the yellow broom. The photos don’t do it justice.

We came to a beautiful view point overlooking the city of Astorga and stopped for a short break.

Down the hill and we made our way to the city over a rather massive footbridge over the railway line.

The climb up into the city centre was really steep made all the worse by the relatively easy going today. I had booked a hotel this evening so walked through the city centre and found it on a buy street with a very impressive street market.

It was a modern hotel but quite cheap. I had a beer while waiting to check in. After getting my room and myself sorted I took my laundry to a laundromat a couple of doors down. I then went to a huge supermarket and stocked up on drinks and snacks. I took advantage of the hotel restaurant in the evening and had a nice meal of the day. I also checked my feet and replaced the plaster on my toe which was healing nicely. Today was a day to get stuff done rather than do more touristy things.

Monday 15th May 2023

Distance 14km / 8.7 miles

Villar de Mazarife – Hospital de Orbigo

Thankfully today was a fresh new day. I had rested and after saying Morning Prayer I was on the pilgrim trail again. As I left the village I passed a distance marker which I felt was significant. From now on I had less than 300km to go before reaching Santiago.

I knew today was a short walk and I was feeling more relaxed even though I planned to stay at the parochial albergue which didn’t take reservations. I passed this garden in the village of Villavante which had this charming garden ornament.

More straight tracks ahead before crossing over a main road and walking through the village of Puente de Orbigo where you get the first view of the iconic bridge.

It was very early when I crossed the bridge and arrived in the village of Hospital de Orbigo. I sat on abench opposite the church to relax in the morning sun. WHo should I see but George from Liverpool again! We chatted for a while then he set off as he wasn’t staying in this village tonight.

I had a look around and then checked in as soon as I could. Today was a day for catching up with old friends as April was staying there too, who I had first met at Zabaldika on my third day.

It was a beautiful place built around a courtyard and a garden at the back. It was full of quirky sculptures, art pieces and several pieces with text about pilgrimage and the Blessed Virgin.

I had plenty of time in the afternoon to get some shopping done and something to eat. A priority was calling at a pharmacy to get something to treat my toe. I came away with plasters and a tube thing to protect it and some iodine stuff to combat the infection. I also went to a bar and had a decent meal and a beer. As I came out of there I saw a procession passing with a Saint’s statue and carrying some kind of farming implement.

In the evening at the Albergue those who wished to could gather for a special pilgrim gathering with the local priest. There was 4 or 5 pilgrims there including April. The priest only spoke Spanish so one of the hospitaleras who happened to be Hungarian translated into English. He spoke about the history of the Camino and the town and began bemoaning the fact there were fewer ‘religious’ pilgrims and more tourists. He then asked each one of us why we were on the pilgrimage and what churches we went to. April and I were both ‘Episcopalians’ and he proceeded to tell April about Luther and the Reformation. He agreed that the Catholic church needed to change then but his conclusion was that we would be better if we returned to the fold. Chatting to April afterwards I shared that it felt like he thought we were wayward children. I had a lovely conversation with April that evening which covered all kinds of subjects including biblical interpretation! Today ended we me in a much better frame of mind than yesterday.

Sunday 14th May 2023

Distance 21.2 km / 13 miles

Puente de Castro, Leon – Villar de Mazarife

Up and ready to go at the crack of dawn. Once again a convenient park bench to say Morning Prayer as the sun rises. I set out to walk through the centre of Leon. It starts out with wide roads and tall modern apartments and offices with all the shops and businesses of any modern city until you come to the old city. You first see the remnants of the city wall. and the lion which is the cities symbol. I love too the artwork of the Virgin too and the sense that there is no distinction between sacred and secular space.

As I walked to the Cathedral it was clear that early on a Sunday Morning there were two other groups of people apart from those who were obviously pilgrims. The workers hosing down the streets and the mainly younger people who were still out from the night before. The architecture was beautiful and it was nice to walk through before the crowds of tourists filled the streets and squares.

On the way out of the city centre you pass this beautiful cross and it’s iconic statue of a pilgrim. Then across the bridge and into the suburbs.

The suburbs then gave way to scrub and industrial estates before coming to La Virgen del Camino. I am sure this town may have had ancient roots but they certain weren’t in evidence as I walked through. Even the church had been rebuilt in what I thought was a really beautiful way.

This day was going well it had been full of interest and I even loved the contrast of the ancient and the modern. I had decided to take what was billed as a scenic alternative route and had booked a bed in the Village of Villar de Mazarife.

The route started out through scrubland outside the village then there was a lot of crossing over and under modern roads and junctions before reading over the hills on some quiet roads.

It was down into a valley and the tiny village of Oncina de la Valdoncina and onto a dirt track up the other side. Today was certainly a walk with plenty of variety.

I think I was getting weary by this point in the day. I hadn’t had a proper rest break and my feet were quite sore. The blister on my toe was particularly problematic, when I checked later in the evening I was concerned that it was beginning to show signs of infection. The last section of the day was at the side of a road. It was fairly flat and straight but as so often when you are looking forward to the end of the walking day, it never seems to come quick enough. My mood seemed to plummet for some reason I am not quite sure why and this low mood remained with me for the rest of the evening.

Eventually I did reach my destination, the Albergue de Jesus. It was quite nice and very busy with the bar populated by locals from the village. I was all out of sorts though and couldn’t settle and relax. This was one of those times when I didn’t interact with other pilgrims at all. It was definitely a low point and for no real reason.

Saturday 13th May 2023

Distance 21.7km / 13.5 miles

Reliegos – Leon

I had booked a bed at the Albergue Santo Tomas de Canterbury, it felt kind of appropriate. It was located in the suburb of Puente de Castro which meant I wouldn’t have to walk all the way in the City of Leon today. I was able to find a quiet bench to say Morning Prayer then set off. I quickly passed through the village of Mansilla de las Mulas with its interesting sculpture

Then there was a lot of walking beside the road towards the city of Leon. There was more and more buildings and businesses – it was clear I was leaving the countryside and approaching the city.

I passed a series of car dealerships then the trail started climbing over the Alto de Portillo.

Once over that hill then the city of Leon was there and the walk through city streets began.

Walking through the city streets I looked up and even amongst the busyness and noise were storks nests.

Thankfully it wasn’t too long before I arrived at my Albergue. It was very nice inside but somehow the ground floor of an apartment block doesn’t seem to have that pilgrim vibe.

I got checked in and sorted then had a beer while I decided what do do. I had an afternoon to explore this wonderful city. The Cathedral is supposed to be one of the best examples of Gothic architecture with sublime stained glass. The city centre too is a tourist’s dream. The more I thought about it though the more I felt that if I went to the cathedral it would be out of guilt because it was the thing I ought to do. I just wasn’t in the mood for being a tourist. In the end I opted for an alternative view of Leon. I decided I would go for a McDonalds.

As I set off I discovered there were some nice bits around Puente de Castro.

I was quite interested though by the massive expanse of semi developed land I walked through. Grandiose housing schemes left half finished.

I arrived at McDonalds and sat outside and people watched. I felt like this was as much the real Leon as if I was sitting outside the Cathedral. There was a Lidl store there too which was an added bonus so I was able to stock up with snacks etc. All in all as I arrived back at the Albergue I didn’t feel as if I had missed out on anything at all.

Friday 12th May 2023

Distance 20km / 12.4 miles

Bercianos del Real Camino – Reliegos

Today’s walk was primarily along tree lined paths along the road. I was wanting to make sure I had enough distance in the bank so I could be more flexible towards the end. The walking was easy and I had plenty of time to think. This was however one of those days where I hadn’t booked anything so part of my thinking was will I get a bed.

It was rolling countryside but there was a real sense that the Meseta was almost over. I would be in the City of Leon the next day and I could look forward to some more varied scenery. I had my first sightings of mountains in the distance. I saw a beautiful rainbow as I walked over the brow of the hill before the village of Reliegos.

It was threatening rain as I entered the village. I walked through the streets until I found the Municipal hostel and was pleased to discover I was one of the first to arrive so I knew I would get a bed. The dormitory was one of these where they crammed as many bunk beds in as physically possible. I was glad I was able to get a bottom bunk in the corner out of the way.

I had time after I got showered to go into the town, have something to eat at a bar and get some snacks for later at the local shop. Whilst I was in the shop there was a heavy shower of rain but it soon passed. I was pleased to see April who I had seen at Zabaldika and Burgos was at the same hostel. She had decided to get a bus into Leon the next day as the walk into the city was supposed to be uninspiring, through suburbs and city streets.

Thursday 11th May 2023

Distance 26.3km / 16.3 miles

Ledigos – Bercianos del Real Camino

I took advantage that the bar was open early at the hostel and had my regular coffee and neapolitana before setting off. It was a cool start to the day but I soon warmed up with the rolling hills.

One of my fascinations on this journey has been the storks, with their nests on buildings that I passed. I grew up not really knowing what a real stork looked like but knew they brought babies. I also saw some feeding in the fields and managed a highly zoomed photo, with no babies in sight.

On the way into the little village of Moratinos I noticed this sign which made me smile. I cannot comment on whether it was true as I didn’t stop at either since it was a bit too soon for me.

The walking was good and quite cool. I noticed a distance marker which indicated I was almost half way.

Going down a hill I was entranced by this path with beautiful wild flowers on both sides. It felt like a processional way.

Soon after we were getting close to the town of Sahagun when I came across the monument which is supposed to mark the half way point. This is disputed!

Sahagun looked to be a really interesting place but I didn’t stop beyond taking a short refreshment break.

I pressed on and arrived at the Bercianos 1900 Albergue. It was quite well appointed and had a nice bar/restaurant. I had a shower and took advantage of their washing machines to get some laundry done. I got by most of the time doing things by hand but a proper wash every now and again did make a lot of difference. I had a beer to celebrate the end of my walking day and after a rest had a rather nice pizza followed by ice cream. The bunk beds were normal though they had fitted curtains which gave some feeling of privacy. It was a good feeling to think I was now over half way.