Wednesday 31st May 2023
Distance 11.1km / 6.9 miles
Melide – Ribadiso da Baixo
The day began with itching. I noticed some raised bumps on my arm which seemed to be getting more uncomfortable all the time. I suspected bed bugs but did not do what the guides told me to do and report it to the Hospitalera. I regretted having chosen a normal single bed with an uncovered mattress rather than the plastic covered mattresses of the bunk beds, I persuaded myself it was not bed bugs and continued with my morning routine of getting ready and saying Morning Prayer as I set off.
It became clear as I walked that this showed every sign of bed bugs. I applied some hydrocortisone cream which I applied and some anti-histamine tablets so it took the edge off the itch and consoled myself that there were only a couple of bites so maybe it waasn’t bed bugs and if it was I had escaped lightly.
The walk was over hills and through valleys which were heavily wooded. I came to some stepping stones over a stream which was a perfect spot to take a photo or two.
As I walked on I began a conversation with the young man I had seen crossing the stepping stones. The conversation turned very quickly to quite deep things which happens on the Camino. I felt certain that he, Frank was the person I should give my ‘stone’ to.
This ‘stone’ was a small flat pebble with “Be Still” written on one side and “and know that I am God” written on the other. I had been given it whilst I was satying in the retreat house on Holy Island last year. It had been given to that person as she battled with cancer. I had taken it with me on the Camino because I felt it was time to pass it on to someone else. So far I had not come across the right person but now only a few days before the end I knew that Frank was the right person. It was such a sublime moment. We continued our conversation for a while and the we parted as he was walking much faster than me.
I continued on and came to the little village of Ribadiso. Once again I was early but was able to have coffee and pastries at the bar next to the Albergue.
It was a beautifully converted collection of buildings and modern showers and toilets. I had a great conversation with one of the volunteer Hospitaleras. Today was proving to be one of deep conversations. I was happy that my day had turned out so much better than I expected.
Today was also the anniversary of John’s death. I wasn’t feeling sad as such as those last weeks in the hospice were some of the most precious times we had. I remembered how I had already started thinking about this pilgrimage and was telling him about my dreams. It didn’t seem to affect either of us knowing he would no longer be around when I did it or indeed the fact that he couldn’t walk at all. We were just living each day in the present while we could.