Friday 28th April 2023
Distance 18.4km (11.4 ml). Total ascent 300m ( 984 ft)
Los Arcos – Viana
I woke early to the sound of pilgrims getting ready for an early start – it seemed like anytime after 5.00am was a good time. For many people they will be looking at the guidebook stage and planning to walk the 27.8km to the city of Logrono. I am determined to wait until is light so at the moment 7.00am is just about right. Today’s stage for me is just 18 km to the town of Viana.
I doesn’t seem to matter how much encouragement I had yesterday, I woke up anxious about finding a place to stay. This anxiety is not based on my experience, in the few days I have been walking I have never had a problem. I got up and went out into the garden of the Albergue and found a quiet bench away from anyone else to say Morning Prayer. Not for the first time as I read the Psalms I think God has got a sense of humour.
Some went astray in desert wastes
Psalm 107
and found no path to a city to dwell in,
Hungry and thirsty,
their soul was fainting within them.
So they cried to the Lord in their trouble
and he delivered them from their distress.
He set their feet on the right way
till they came to a city to dwell in.
Today was another day of hills and valleys though I think maybe I was just beginning to get used to it. Apart from the ubiquitous views there were a couple of particular points of interest. Thinking about it now I see them as places of prayer. One the modern one where pilgrims have tied ribbons onto the trees beside the path, though it’s an age old practice.
Later at the highest point of today’s walk – the hermitage of Nuestra Senora del Poyo. It wasn’t open but sat outside, had a rest and considered how the Virgin might be looking after me on my pilgrimage as promised on the first night at Roncesvalles. I still don’t get it.
As always the views are spectacular even if it does mean more up and down.
Throughout my morning’s walk I still couldn’t get out of my head the thought of not finding a bed for the night. It provoked an internal dialogue all the way. I consciously took more breaks rather than powering on, albeit short ones. I tried to be present in my walking rather than focussing solely on reaching my destination.
I thought about how many say that ‘the Camino is a metaphor for life’. I was musing about how often we live by not doing anything until we are sure of the end result and that there is something to be said by living in the moment.
Eventually the town of Viana came into view, on top of another hill of course. Once through the outskirts it was up the very steep climb to the historic centre. What a revelation. I was entranced, not by the medieval architecture but by the vibe. Lots of pilgrims but also lots of locals and even a street market. Although the only street photo I seem to have looks a bit deserted!
When I walked through the town and arrived at the municipal albergue – it was all so simple. Just a few people queuing and there was no problem at all. What was I worrying about?
After checking in checked out the ruined church opposite the Albergue and the terraced garden at the end of the lane.
As I was sitting on a bench looking at the view of tomorrow’s walk I met the German lad I had been speaking to yesterday. He had decided to stay in a hotel tonight. He too was not sure where to stay tomorrow. After he left I consulted my guide boo. I set my heart on the parochial hostel in Logrono and I booked a hostel for the following night in Ventosa. Somehow that took the pressure off and felt able to relax.
I wandered around the town a bit but most things were shut now for ‘siesta’ so I sat and read for a while. When things were opening up again I picked up some more stuff for blisters at a pharmacy and went for a pilgrim’s meal I had noticed earlier. I sat at a table in the afternoon sun watching the world go by.
The main church opposite was open so I went in to have a look and to say a quiet prayer. As always Saint James was there, though since I was walking on his way it is to be expected.
As I came out I noticed the tomb of Cesare Borgia, illegitimate son of the Borgia Pope Alexander VI who was killed defending Viana in 1507 after being banished. (Just in case it comes up in a pub quiz!)
I realised the Mass was starting soon so I went back in. The priest beckoned me into a side chapel with a supersize crucifix at the front. Around the sides were huge music books. I tried following the Mass on my App but it was still a struggle. After Mass the handful of us who were pilgrims went down to the front. The priest read the prayer I recognised from Los Arcos then said a few words translated by his assistant. He then laid hands and prayed with each of us individually. It was lovely.
Then it was back to the Albergue with a wonderful feeling of blessing.