Friday 5th May 2023
Distance 13.7km / 8.5 miles
Cardenuela Rio Pico – Burgos
I had a disturbed night and woke up a bit disoriented. I found a old plastic chair on the edge of the Albergue and said Morning Prayer as the sky brightened. After a quick breakfast I set off on my own at 7.15, a bit late for me. It was not far to Burgos but then I wanted to stay at a parochial Albergue who didn’t take bookings and wanted to make sure of my place….. O me of little faith!
In the early morning it was cool and even though it was mostly road walking to begin with there was not much traffic. I walked through the village of Orbaneja then up over the big dual carriageway. I was in the zone, just walking and I could see various groups of pilgrims ahead of me. This was fine until I saw a group of pilgrims walking towards me, this got me mightily confused. I consulted the Wise Pilgrim App on my phone and discovered I had missed my turning onto the riverside path I wanted to use . So I turned around and backtracked towards the Dual Carriageway, still looking for pilgrims to follow. I nearly repeated my mistake as I nearly followed some pilgrims as they headed off beside a field. Just ahead of me were Sally and Alex together with another couple I had been chatting to last night coming towards me. I explained to them about the options and using my App persuade them of the best route which we eventually found though the signage wasn’t good.
What started out in error turned out for the best as we walked and talked together all the way into Burgos. We stopped for a second breakfast of coffee and tortilla at Castanares before we started on the quiet path beside the river.
It was a lovely route into the city missing out most of the suburbs and busy roads. Just before reaching the city centre I left them and turned off to find my preferred Albergue. Despite following really comprehensive directions I managed to walk past it several times before finally finding the entrance. The hostel was just part of a very imposing parish centre which also included a church. The pilgrim’s entrance is round the side.
Of course I was way too early, they weren’t going to open for hours. Just as I was pondering what to do I was approached by an old lady who recognising I was a pilgrim and wanting to stay unlocked the door of the Albergue and invited me to leave my backpack in the reception room. It was the only time I saw her but realised later that she was a legendary figure having devoted many many years of her life to the Albergue on a completely voluntary basis.
I went to a nearby bar – for a coffee and to use the toilet. It’s quite often really practical details which loom large in your mind when walking! It was a quiet place, only a few old men there and the ubiquitous television whose news output I could only half understand. I decided to have a look round the city while I waited for the Albergue to open. I wandered towards the Cathedral mainly taking in the parks and bridges along the river.
The city has an important Museum of Human Evolution which I didn’t get round to visit but this artwork in the park references that.
On my return to the Albergue there were half a dozen people queuing outside the Albergue so I waited with them. When it came time to open a volunteer came out and explained the strict rules of the Albergue, there was even a folder with them all written down. It was very strict, silence in the corridors and on the stairs, and doors locked at night with people leaving before breakfast forbidden. Benediction in the church was compulsory too. It was such a radical contrast to the chaos of last night, but I really appreciated the discipline. I really feel I have been led here as I wanted to re-charge my spiritual batteries.
After a very lengthy check-in I showered, shave and sorted my stuff then decided I would go to the cathedral. On the way I saw Dave, the young lad who I had met a few days previously. He had had to rest up for 3 days in Burgos to let his injuries heal enough for him to continue.
I was conflicted about visiting the Cathedral as I recognised that I was in tourist mode on this journey. It was almost as if I would feel guilty is I didn’t go and see the Cathedral. I paid my 5 Euros (reduced rate for pilgrims) and went in. I even downloaded the English Guide onto my phone. The whole place was overwhelming, such beautiful and exquisite architecture, treasures, and renaissance artwork. I walked around, saw the tomb of El Cid and so much more. I didn’t end up staying long though, I longed for some kind of spiritual connection which I just couldn’t get. I just can’t seem to play the part of a tourist.
On the way back to the Albergue I wandered around a non-touristy bit of the city which I seemed to appreciate more. I found a handy supermarket and stocked up on nuts and drinks, handily changing a 50 Euro note too. There was time to rest before Mass and Benediction in the church. Mass was as unintelligible as ever yet deeply meaningful. The Benediction for the pilgrims was wonderful, laying on of hands and a pat on the cheek! I was so pleased too to see April who I had shared such precious times with in Zabaldika was also staying.
We were ushered out of the church to the waiting communal dinner. Just salad and soup with a piece of fruit but all the more perfect in it’s simplicity. The Hospitalero explained that whatever was given the day before in voluntary donations paid for what the pilgrims received the following day. After the meal the few of us who were staying that night gathered round to share why we were walking the Camino. There were all sorts of reasons from the mundane to the deeply harrowing. It was a special time, a safe space where everyone felt able to open up about their deepest thoughts. After that we were told it was time for bed!