Monday 1st May 2023
Distance 30.8km (19.1 ml)
Ventosa – Santo Domingo de la Calzada
I knew today was going to be a longer day, so I was up and out as early as possible. It wasn’t yet light enough to see where I was walking so I took the time to sit in the bus shelter on the edge of the village and say Morning Prayer. Apart from the odd passing pilgrim it was so quiet and I could see the sky brightening over the valley towards the east.
I started walking about 6.45 first downhill then a longer uphill walk. There was a handy viewpoint as I got to the top of the hill where I caught one of the most beautiful sunrises of my journey.
This was one of those solitary days in contrast to yesterday. I walked on my own all day. This isn’t a negative thing – it leaves plenty of time to let my mind wander. Over the last few months and especially on this pilgrimage, the internal dialogue I have in my head when on my own increasingly involves God. Is this prayer? The scenery was wide and expansive with vineyards as far as the eye could see.
My initial plan was to stop in Najera for some breakfast. I had heard of how spectacular the cliffs behind the town looked in the early morning sunshine but today the clouds got in the way.
The town centre was really attractive and dressed up like a medieval theme park as there was a festival happening this weekend. However I was there too early in the day and apart from a few people setting up their stalls it was very quiet. The one bar I found open was packed full so I walked through the town and sat on a bench and eat some of the food I had stashed in my backpack for breakfast. I did say hello to the Korean woman and her son I had met yesterday. It was then up the hill and through more vineyards.
I stopped at the next village of Azofra, once again on a hilltop and stopped to change socks fill up my water and get something to eat.
After that it was rolling hills and wide, wide landscapes with the road seemingly going on forever. It was getting hotter and hotter too.
The next village I came to was very different to the older ones I normally saw. It seemed to comprise of unfinished housing developments in the midst of scrub and fields with incongruously a posh golf club. There wasn’t much there to tempt me to stop so on I went.
There is something different about walking where you can see your path going on and on into the distance. Eventually I came over the brow of a hill and saw my destination for today in the distance. The town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. What a welcome sight it was!
As always it still took ages to get into the centre of town past agricultural and industrial units and along the road.
I checked into the Albergue which to my surprise was not full despite this being a holiday weekend. So much for my bed anxiety! It was very big and had some of the best facilities I had experienced so far with a lovely lounge area.
After my customary ablutions, laundry and siesta I went out to have a look around and to get something to eat.
The cathedral was the obvious place to start. There was a five euro charge for entry which gave me access to a couple more museums. I went into the church but felt overwhelmed by groups of tourists. I downloaded the guide to my phone and was impressed by the history and the beauty but I felt out of place. My pilgrimage journey somehow didn’t allow room in my mind just to be a tourist and I didn’t spend long there. I did eventually find a spot for a brief moment of prayer.
Whilst I was struggling with being a tourist I did find an interesting quote in the attached museum which was full of statues of the Virgin Mary and various Saints.
VII Church in Heaven
We are all pilgrims who are walking towards the House of God, Eternal Life.
The Virgin Mary is our Mother and takes care of us at all times.
Saints in addition to advocating on behalf of us, are models of a religious life that
encourage us on our walk.
I didn’t bother with the other museums and wandered around the town centre with its attractive squares and settled on a bar where I had some pizza and beer.
While I was sitting eating a small procession of young women dressed in traditional costume passed by. It was preceded by some drummers. I had heard that the festival of Santo Domingo was starting but if this was it, it felt somewhat underwhelming. I think I was a week early for the main event.
I went back to the Albergue to discover the dorm I was in was less than half full which meant there was no one in the bunk above me. I was able to book a bed for tomorrow night so I settled down to a good night’s sleep.