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  • The Kindness of Strangers

    The Kindness of Strangers

    Slow Ways Route – Easshi one

    Distance 21km / 13 mi

    Breakfast was included so I got packed up and enjoyed a leisurely start looking at the passing trains. It was a straightforward walk today with a long stretch of road walking. I had booked a room just before the village of Easingwold above an Indian restaurant. I set off into and through the village of Shipton taking a selfie to prove I had actually been there. You can tell that I am still not used to selfies from the bemused expression.

    My route took me through pastures and along field edges until I reached the road.

    Thankfully it was not very busy. I was just settling into a rhythm and enjoying my walk when I realised I had walked off with my room key. This was a real key as opposed to the cards you often get these days. I was just thinking of different options on how to return it when I got a telephone call from the hotel. From my conversations yesterday they knew where I was staying so they assured me they would pick the key up from me this evening. It made life easy for me but I felt bad that they were putting themselves out on account of my absent mindedness. One good thing about walking up country lanes is you go much faster than across ploughed fields.

    I eventually came to the village of Huby just before 12.00 and was ready for a break. I found a wonderful Community Shop with a bench outside. It was so good to see this community venture flourishing.

    I called in and picked up a drink, sandwich and some snacks. It was the kind of place where people are happy to chat and once I had explained what I was doing they kindly gave me a free flapjack. It is these small acts of kindness which make this journey very special.

    I continued on. This half of todays route was through fields and pastures and along farm tracks. There were several fields which were full of cows. In general I am ok with cows, especially since I grew up with them until I was eleven, though they were Jerseys so maybe different. They were more curious than anything. The only real difficulty was finding the gaps in the electric fences.

    After negotiating this local ‘wildlife’ and the accompanying stretch of slurry filled path the going was easier. I saw a sign for the Cabinet Office Emergency Planning College and wondered what kind of emergency they were planning for now.

    It wasn’t long after this I approached Easingwold and had a short walk along a busy road to reach my accommodation for the night. I got a call about the room key and headed downstairs to the restaurant to hand it over. I was amazed that they didn’t seem upset at all at having to drive from Shipton to get a key, indeed they were ordering a take away. The insisted on buying me a drink too. Today was a day when people were being so kind to me, it was a bit overwhelming to be honest.

  • River and Railway

    River and Railway

    Slow Ways Route – Shiyor one

    Today began by walking through the centre of the city in the early morning to pick up my Slow Way at the Railway Station

    I was drawn back to the reason I was walking by this banner on a wall

    I was soon walking beside the river just enjoying how beautiful it was

    The route took me away from the river for a short stretch.

    Then it was back beside the river again, this time on a high embankment. I was conscious of the East Coast Main Line in thebackground as I walked.

    I followed the joint cycle path away from the river through some woodland only to check my map and discover I had missed a turning. I retraced my steps anf found the right path and then discovered it was closed for repairs so I retraced my steps again to where I had turned back before. If you can follow that.

    I had a bit of road walking to do through the village of Overton, and on towards the East Coast Mainline and my hotel for the night. I did notice some hills in the distance which was a novelty on this walk.

    The railway carriages are the bedrooms. It was a themed hotel right beside the busy railway line. I went in and had a beer and chatted to the man behind the bar. He was impressed by what I was doing and gave me a pint on the house.

    I returned jlater that evening and had some authentic Greek foood which was superb. I was getting

  • Vikings and Bishops

    Vikings and Bishops

    Slow Ways Route – Cawyor one

    Today I would start and end my day beside the River Ouse. I read that Archbishops of York had a palace here at Cawood and read too that in 1066 Viking ships were moored on the river here too. I negotiated the traffic on the bridge and set off walking on the embankment beside the river.

    I came to the village of Kellfield with this nod to it’s Viking heritage along with the modern beacon.

    Then tracks and fields on the way to Stillingfleet

    Through the village of Stillingfleet

    Then onto a road then farm tracks before reaching the Trans Pennine Trail.

    It was along here I chatted to a local man in his 80s who told me at great length about the wildlife and agriculture around me. He was on an electric trike but put my fitness to shame. I passed this remnant of the trail’s railway days, though the distances didn’t correspond to my route.

    I walked through the village of Naburn as I returned to the banks of the River Ouse again. I was hoping for a village shop but it was closed.

    I continued along this railway path until I reached Bishopthorpe the current home of the Archbishop of York.

    Thankfully I found a cafe which was open in the village/town and had a well deserved break. I passed the racecourse and arrived at the city.

    I will admit to bias but York’s Millenium Bridge is not a patch on Gateshead’s.

    I had arrived in York. I walked past then on some of the City Walls to my Slow Ways destination at the Railway Station.

    I had booked an Airbnb room for the night which was just inside the City Walls. The view from my room was of the wall. This place was a delight the room was great and I was able to get all my washing done and dried. York was another milestone on my journey – almost but not quite on the home stretch.

  • Why I’m walking

    Why I’m walking

    Slow Ways Routes – Selsna one, Cawsel one

    I set off after a convivial breakfast, thankful that I had missed the rain yesterday evening and night. I left the quiet streets and was soon crossing the River Aire.

    It was good walking on the embankment beside the River despite the wet grass.

    The route changed to tracks and minor roads. I could see the ever present pylons leading to Drax Power Station on the horizon.

    These pheasants were the only bit of wildlife’ I noticed.

    It wasn’t all nature – I’m not sure what the story was here.

    More footpaths, roads and then besides the Selby Canal.

    I walked into the town of Selby – past the official end of my first Slow Way.

    My priority now was to find somewhere for lunch. As it happens there was a handy Wetherspoons which was open. I headed there for some lunch and a soft drink. I had restricted myself to only having a pint after finishing walking for the day. It had been threatening rain for some time and while I was having lunch the heavens opened. I didn’t rush and it did seem to be easing so I set off, heading for a Greggs to pick up stuff for my tea later. As I approached Greggs the rain started getting heavier so I took time to get my waterproofs on again!

    I came out of Greggs – struggling to get my backpack properly adjusted and noticed a young man sitting on the pavement trying to shelter. He asked me for some money for a coffee and after I had given him more than he was expecting we got chatting. His name was Alan and he was homeless. He assured me he wasn’t going to use money to buy drugs but I assured him there were no strings attached. He explained a bit about his current situation and I shared what I was doing. I felt so sad that he said he would like to give me a hug but he couldn’t because he was conscious he smelt bad. We parted and once again it brought home to me just why I was walking. I just wished there was more I could have done to help. As I left him I looked across and saw lots of well dressed people coming out of Selby Abbey and thought about the contrast.

    I walked on though and was soon out in the countryside again on my next Slow Way to Cawood. It was a bit muddy in places.

    I passed through the attractive village of Wistow. Thankfully the rain had passed.

    Then finally to my destination of Cawood on the River Ouse.

    Not sure if these count as wildlife. They seemed to be happy beside the bridge over the river.

    I had a room booked at the pub. I had my pint since I had finished walking and then just had my stuff from Greggs. It was a lovely room and I had a good night’s rest.

  • An unexpected encounter

    An unexpected encounter

    Slow Ways Route – Snatho one

    I walked through the town of Thorne noting that these bits were a bit more affluent than the areas I saw yesterday.

    My first destination was the retail park where I had identified McDonalds as my preferred breakfast option. I people watched as I breakfasted then set off again. I successfully crossed under the M18 and set off towards the River Don.

    As I walked along the side of the road it grieved me to see so much litter which so obviously had been chucked out of cars as they passed. Yes I had been on footpaths with some litter but roadsides seem to be a common dumping ground. It seemed to me that people have become separated from the landscape and the places they live in and travel through. One of the great things about walking is that you have a better connection to where you are.

    I reached the river and walked over the bridge. It was flowing quite fast.

    I passed a more extreme example of littering. Sadly fly tipping was evident all along this journey.

    The walk along the river was very pleasant in the morning sunshine.

    I approached a farmhouse at the end of this stretch of road. Just as I passed an old man was coming out of the house to sit on a bench.

    He started chatting and invited me to sit with him. I was so glad I had a short journey today as I felt relaxed about taking the time to stop. We had a great time. I told him about what I was doing and he gave me a potted history of his life as a farmer, stories of his family and the flood a few years ago. His daughter came out the house and made us a cup of tea. It made my day to share some lime with such a lovely man. But I did have to go on eventually.

    Flood defences were common.

    I left the river and crossed over the Aire and Calder Navigation.

    The scenery changed as I headed through fields and over another motorway, the M62 this time.

    I walked through the village of Cowick into the town of Snaith. Both village and town are proud of their heritage.

    I was really early so had a look round the town centre and stopped at a cafe for a sandwich and a cup of tea. I found my way to the Vicarage where I was staying and met my host Rev Eleanor Robertshaw.

    My stay here was such a joy, I was happy being quiet, and catching up with things. We shared a meal together later and I was interested to find out she knew the man I chatted to earlier. The hospitality was great and for me this was a lovely place of quiet rest.

  • Leaving Lincolnshire

    Leaving Lincolnshire

    Slow Ways Routes – Sanepw one, Thosan one

    It was a fine morning and after a good night’s rest I was on the trail again. My Airbnb was just a few metres away from the Slow Way.

    I walked out of the town and followed a footpath which took, beside fields and pastures.

    There were quite a lot of corn fields and my first thought was I wonder when these will be harvested.

    I turned a corner and got my answer.

    As I walked on I was passed several times by the trailers carrying the harvested corn. I continued along a track which took me to the River Torne. I found it difficult to distinguish between rivers, canals and drains around these parts.

    I walked beside the river for a while which was great.

    I turned left and joined the road into the little village of Sandtoft which was the end of this first Slow Way. It was a long straight road and was backwards and forwards onto the verge to avoid fast moving traffic.

    I stopped outside the pub for a rest which of course was not open. There really wasn’t much else in this village so continued on. The rest of today was all road walking.

    I did notice two men clearing a hedge by hand across the ditch and stopped for a chat. We ended up talking about the way farming had changed since I grew up on the farm until I was 11. I can just about remember Dad having a horse as well as the tractor. One of the farmers said he had studied Agriculture at Newcastle and said how they had visited someone who still used horses. The consensus was it would not be cost effective. The only other highlight was the sign welcoming me to Yorkshire. It did give a feeling of accomplishment. More and more roads followed though – there was no change in my surroundings.

    As I entered the town of Thorne, my destination for today I crossed the canal.

    It was a long walk through the town to the end of the route.

    I had a drink in the pub but they didn’t serve food so on my way to my Airbnb I called at a cafe and had a salad. The Airbnb was good. I just stayed in my room for the evening as I had had enough of walking today. After posting the route reviews I did wander whether it would have been more interesting to have taken a slightly longer route which would have had more canal walking.

  • From Vikings to Wesleys

    From Vikings to Wesleys

    Slow Way Route Epwgai one

    Today started with breakfast at Wetherspoons.

    It was called the Sweyn Forkbeard. This led to some basic reading about the town’s Viking heritage while I was there. https://www.jdwetherspoon.com/pub-histories/england/lincolnshire/the-sweyn-forkbeard-gainsborough.

    I had never really thought about rivers being navigable that far inland but I soon realised as I saw evidence of the River Trent’s past.

    I crossed over the bridge and began walking beside the river.

    I passed pumping stations and sluice gates showing how heavily managed the river is. My route took me along the top of the river embankment.

    I chatted to man walking with his two dogs for a while. He was an interesting character and I loved the way his two little Yorkies bounced along.

    I left the River Trent at West Stockwith Marina and headed up a stretch of the Weir Dyke towards Misterton.

    I turned North at Misterton and saw more evidence of the ubiquitous water management in this area.

    There were some great views along the waterway.

    I was then back on the road again towards the village of Haxey va Graizelound

    When I got to Haxey – I was ready for a rest and some lunch. The pub was closed but Google reckoned there was a cafe further along the road. It was great though sadly was closing in a couple of weeks. I made the most of it though and had soup and a sandwich.

    For the final section to Epworth it was along tracks and through fields.

    Epworth is famous as the birthplace of John and Charles Wesley. I passed the old Rectory where they were born. The town itself was quite touristy with nice looking small shops.

    Tonight’s stay was a lovely Airbnb who provided snacks and a continental breakfast as well as the room.

  • Roads and Fields

    Roads and Fields

    Slow Ways Route Gaisax one

    Today I timed my departure from the camp site to coincide with the opening time of the cafe in the village where I stopped for breakfast.

    I was back on my Slow Way again now so I made sure I went to the railway station as this was yesterday’s finish and today’s official start.

    The first part to Sturton by Stow is all road walking and though it was quite busy it was easy enough to step on to the verge when cars were approaching. I was walking at my usual pace and don’t think I could go much slower.

    I noticed these sheep who were grazing on what was left of the previous crop.

    I arrived at the village of Sturton by Stow and decided it was time for a break so I got a drink and snacks at the Co-op. I walked through the village then across fields to the village of Stow.

    The village of Stow was much smaller than Sturton by Stow and the next village of Willingham by Stow, but it’s age and importance was demonstrated by this beautiful church which was not open when I passed.

    From Stow it was a series of tracks, paths and pasture to the village of Upton.

    I had hoped there would be a shop in Upton but if there is I never found it. I had forgotten to fill up my water bottle so I finished what I had while I had a sit down. On this walk I have noticed how different communities have repurposed old telephone boxes. I had passed several mini libraries/book exchanges and the odd defibrillator. Upton’s was almost an art installation advertising their Chatterbox Cafe at the church.

    From Upton to my destination of Gainsborough the going was much tougher. The paths seemed to all be going diagonally across fields. I was just too late in this part of the world as the farmers had cultivated and ploughed the fields after harvesting their crops. I didn’t enjoy this section.

    I battled on and reached the town of Gainsborough. I had booked an Airbnb in a room above a pub so I quickly made sure I had completed the route before I checked in.

    The pub itself showed that appearances can be deceptive. It looked a bit rough and when I was shown the room you went though a room with loads of junk and decorating stuff. It was obviously a work in progress. The room though was great, I had my own bathroom and plenty of space to get my tent dry. I had a great night’s sleep.

  • A Short Walk

    A Short Walk

    Slow Ways Route – Saxlin two

    I knew I didn’t need to rush today as it was only a short walk along the river to the village of Saxilby and a pre-booked campsite. I decided to trust my new boots and left the old ones in the hotel room as they were too far gone to even repair. The weather forecast was for rain this morning.

    A short walk brought me to the riverside and an area of modern restaurants and bars. I opted for breakfast at Wetherspoons. As I set off after breakfast I noticed the words on the bridge. So many things filled my head at that point. I had a destination for today and a finish for my walk but there were other deeper existential answers too.

    It soon started raining so I stopped to get all my waterproof stuff on and resigned myself to a wet walk.

    I was pleased with my new boots as they were keeping my feet dry. It would have been a more pleasant walk if it had been dry but it didn’t diminish my appreciation of my surroundings. I noticed lots of flood barriers in front of riverside houses which was interesting. I got out into the countryside and thankfully found a riverside hotel which though wasn’t officially open let me have a cup of coffee and use their facilities. I didn’t hurry and watched the rain outside.

    I didn’t want to overstay my welcome so continued and thankfully the rain began to ease and the sun came out. I passed a Marina and then temprarily diverted away from the river as the route took me beside a road. I stopped again for a coffee and a snack in a handy roadside cafe. I was killing time a bit. As I walked I saw countryside to my right and industrial units to my left.

    I walked along the riverbank through the village of Saxilby and along a canal/river to my campsite. It wasn’t busy and my neighbour was quite friendly although I did hear him in the night .

    I got a great welcome from the owners who once I was set up invited me for a glass of wine and a chat. It made my stay there all the more special, another example of the kindness of strangers.

  • Lincoln

    Lincoln

    Slow Ways Route – Linmet one

    It was a gentle start to the day today. It was lovely to share breakfast with Peter and Anny, I felt so honoured to be receiving such lovely hospitality.

    It was a short walk today and I knew I would be following the Spires and Steeples trail so I was hoping for an easy day. I walked out of the village along the road but soon headed out along decent trails.

    I soon came to village of Potterhanworth and of course some Spires.

    I passed Hanworth Country Park with its Camping and Cafe and thought that I maybe could have stayed there if I hadn’t had something much better. It was too soon even to stop for a coffee and I certainly didn’t need a second breakfast by then.

    I walked along and under the railway line then across the fields towards the village of Branston.

    Another lovely village this time with spires and a steeple.

    Through more beautiful countryside towards the villages of Heighington and Washingborough.

    A bit of walking through the housing estates and streets of Washingborough led me to the river and my first view of Lincoln.

    It was a shared cycle path into the City. It seemed like a long way since the Cathedral had been in sight for quite a time. I stopped half way for a drink and snack. I arrived at my Slow Ways destination outside the Train and Bus Stations.

    I had booked a cheap AIrbnb for tonight which appeared to be quite central so I heade into the city and climbed up the notorious steep hill through the shops and crowds.

    When I got to my accommodation I was horrified. It was a tiny terraced house which was dark and it smelt and when I found my room the bed was clean but the carpet wasn’t. Also the door could only be locked from the inside with a bolt. I didn’t feel safe and was very wary of leaving anything in the room if I went out.

    My plan for Lincoln was to find a new pair of walking boots. Whilst my old ones I had worn in Spain were comfortable they were worn out and as I had discovered they were no longer waterproof despite me treating them. I only had limited time to get something so I set out to Go Outdoors on the edge of the City Centre all the while worrying about my stuff and not happy about the room.

    I got some boots and whilst walking back I decided to cut my losses and found a room at a Travelodge. I got back to the Airbnb got all my stuff together and walked down to the hotel and booked in to somewhere I felt safe and comfortable. Thankfully later that evening I was able to get a refund from Airbnb so I went out and had a Pizza to celebrate this new milestone. It was certainly a mixed kind of day. It was psychological but the cities of Peterborough, Lincoln, York and Durham felt like natural stages on my walk. It was almost half way too so it became the Half Way point on my journey.