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Slow Way Route – Boubil one

After breakfast I said my fond farewells and set off once more. The walk today was going to be one of fields and villages and most villages having a beautiful church.

I passed through the village of Haconby the footpaths taking me through different kinds of fields and with what looked like the next village appearing on the horizon.

Some fields I walked through had crops and some had been recently cultivated.

Then I approached the village of Dunsby, glad I was walking through grass to help clean the mud off my boots.

Through Dunsby and on towards Rippindale.

I stopped in Rippingdale for a short break.

Then through Graby and Dowsby. Not all the fields had obvious paths where the right of way was. These were much harder going as the soil was quite muddy and clung to my boots.

I went past Pointon and then arrived at the beautiful and tranquil Abbey Church at Sempringham.

I passed a memorial for the last Welsh Princess who was at the original Abbey nearby and then searched for the Holy Well. Sadly if this was the Holy Well it was inaccessible. I could have bathed my feet!

I finally reached my destination for today, the village of Billingborough. I was feeling tired and needed a rest. After getting some snacks at the village shop I found the Fortescue Arms pub open and serving food. Just what I needed. I had thought to head to a campsite in the village of Folkingham but decided to ask at the pub whether there were any options in the village, even if it was just a patch of grass to pitch my tent. They offered the area at the edge of there car park and after a quick look I decide to go for it. As I now knew I’s finished walking for the day I decided to treat myself to a burger and a pint.

The lads in the bar were quite taken with my challenge and I soon had another pint and £40 in donations. I’m sure after a while the whole village knew who I was and what I was doing. I hung around at the pub for the rest of the evening and got something else to eat. I didn’t want to pitch my tent before the pub shut just in case but this meant I had to wait until the karaoke finished at midnight! I pitched my tent with the aid of my head torch and settled down for the night.

I actually felt quite safe even though I was pitched close to the main street in the centre of the village.

Slow Ways Routes Slebil one, Slemet one

I wanted to be away early to be on my way and also because I wanted to be packed up before too many people were out and about. I made sure I left no trace and started my walk though very quiet village streets.

A short stretch of footpath through some fields and then on to quiet country lanes. There was almost no traffic early on a Saturday morning and it was quite relaxing looking at the beauty of nature in the sunshine.

For a little way I joined what once had been a Roman road.

I stopped for a break in the village of Scredington where there was an attractive church and a handy bench in the sunshine.

There was such a variety of terrain as I continued on to Sleaford.

This included a very different crop in this field

My Slow Way route ended in Sleaford, at the Railway Station.

I stopped for lunch. I got some fish and chips and people watched for a while. I had booked an Airbnb room in the village of Ruskington and continued my walk. My next Slow Way mostly followed the Spires and Steeples waymarked trail. This afternoon’s walk was a lovely contrast from this morning as I was mainly walking beside the River Slea.

Because this was a Slow Way and I was walking from place to place I headed away from the river into the village of Ruskington. I found my Airbnb and what a joy. My hosts were so lovely. I wasn’t just renting a room I was welcomed almost as part of the family.

Jan made me a cup of tea and we chatted then I got myself sorted in a lovely complete annexe with private bathroom and lounge. I took some time in he evening to try and sort out where I was going to sleep tomorrow night. Yesterday Neil had contacted several people and there was a possibility of staying at the village of Nocton just past Metheringham. However I hadn’t heard anything and I got a bit anxious so decided to book at a camp site at Kirkby Green just before Metheringham. quite late on I did get an offer of staying with a family in Nocton but I emailed back and explained that I had just booked at a camp site.

Jan did some washing for me and made me a sandwich. I could have shared a family evening with them but was content to be quiet. I did say yes to an ice cream sundae though. I was completely overwhelmed by their kindness and hospitality. I had paid for a room but I got so much more!!

Slow Ways Routes – Slemet one, Linmet one

Today was a slow start as breakfast was included at Jan and Ian’s Airbnb. Also I wasn’t in a hurry as it had rained heavily and it was still raining in the morning. I got my waterproof gear on and set off only to get into the centre of the village and deciding that the rain had stopped – taking it off. I stopped at a handy shop and got some food for later on at the camp site and found my Slow Way again and back on the trail. It was Sunday but as I passed the church in Ruskington I realised that there wasn’t a church service at the right time in the right place.

The centre of the village was quite picturesque, at least I thought so.

It was soon out into the fields. Today the route was continuing along the Spires and Steeples trail. I was a lovely route through fields and pasture from village to village and of course spires and steeples. This is the view approaching Dorrington.

The village of Scopwick was very attractive.

Just outside the village of Rowston I realised that I was almost at the campsite and it was only mid morning. It seemed crazy to waste almost a whole day’s walking so I message my contacts at Nocton who said I could still stay with them that night and cancelled my camp site. I hate messing people around but decided that this was the best thing to do. It turned out well as Peter told me I would be around for the village Harvest Supper. I walked on having decided to make the village of Nocton today’s destination. Here’s the church at Blankney.

Then over a village cricket pitch and through fields of corn.

I stopped in the village of Metheringham at the Co-op fro a drink and a sandwich. This was where I was mistaken for a thief, albeit only briefly. The person at the checkout began asking me what was in my backpack and then quickly decided I was genuine. It felt a bit surreal.

I knew I had plenty of time as I didn’t have that far to go so paused for a break and continued on. The paths were quite good leading into Nocton and I arrived at the village green and let my hosts know I was there.

Peter and Anny were wonderful hosts. They gave me such a warm welcome. There house was a lovely and quirky place. It is so good to feel relaxed and not feel like you are imposing on people. The church was holding a Harvest Songs of Praise Service that evening so I was especially glad that I was able to get to a service.

It was a lovely time of singing in the church. Afterwards everyone ended up at the village hall for a Harvest Supper. I was especially glad to be included in that too. This was a small village community who enabled me to experience a Harvest Celebration such as I hadn’t had since I was a teenager. The supper was wonderful and people who met generously gave donations too. As we left I remember glancing up at the sky and noticing a wonderful black white and grey cloudscape in the gathering darkness. The day just had one wonderful surprise after another.

Slow Ways Route – Linmet one

It was a gentle start to the day today. It was lovely to share breakfast with Peter and Anny, I felt so honoured to be receiving such lovely hospitality.

It was a short walk today and I knew I would be following the Spires and Steeples trail so I was hoping for an easy day. I walked out of the village along the road but soon headed out along decent trails.

I soon came to village of Potterhanworth and of course some Spires.

I passed Hanworth Country Park with its Camping and Cafe and thought that I maybe could have stayed there if I hadn’t had something much better. It was too soon even to stop for a coffee and I certainly didn’t need a second breakfast by then.

I walked along and under the railway line then across the fields towards the village of Branston.

Another lovely village this time with spires and a steeple.

Through more beautiful countryside towards the villages of Heighington and Washingborough.

A bit of walking through the housing estates and streets of Washingborough led me to the river and my first view of Lincoln.

It was a shared cycle path into the City. It seemed like a long way since the Cathedral had been in sight for quite a time. I stopped half way for a drink and snack. I arrived at my Slow Ways destination outside the Train and Bus Stations.

I had booked a cheap AIrbnb for tonight which appeared to be quite central so I heade into the city and climbed up the notorious steep hill through the shops and crowds.

When I got to my accommodation I was horrified. It was a tiny terraced house which was dark and it smelt and when I found my room the bed was clean but the carpet wasn’t. Also the door could only be locked from the inside with a bolt. I didn’t feel safe and was very wary of leaving anything in the room if I went out.

My plan for Lincoln was to find a new pair of walking boots. Whilst my old ones I had worn in Spain were comfortable they were worn out and as I had discovered they were no longer waterproof despite me treating them. I only had limited time to get something so I set out to Go Outdoors on the edge of the City Centre all the while worrying about my stuff and not happy about the room.

I got some boots and whilst walking back I decided to cut my losses and found a room at a Travelodge. I got back to the Airbnb got all my stuff together and walked down to the hotel and booked in to somewhere I felt safe and comfortable. Thankfully later that evening I was able to get a refund from Airbnb so I went out and had a Pizza to celebrate this new milestone. It was certainly a mixed kind of day. It was psychological but the cities of Peterborough, Lincoln, York and Durham felt like natural stages on my walk. It was almost half way too so it became the Half Way point on my journey.

Slow Ways Route – Saxlin two

I knew I didn’t need to rush today as it was only a short walk along the river to the village of Saxilby and a pre-booked campsite. I decided to trust my new boots and left the old ones in the hotel room as they were too far gone to even repair. The weather forecast was for rain this morning.

A short walk brought me to the riverside and an area of modern restaurants and bars. I opted for breakfast at Wetherspoons. As I set off after breakfast I noticed the words on the bridge. So many things filled my head at that point. I had a destination for today and a finish for my walk but there were other deeper existential answers too.

It soon started raining so I stopped to get all my waterproof stuff on and resigned myself to a wet walk.

I was pleased with my new boots as they were keeping my feet dry. It would have been a more pleasant walk if it had been dry but it didn’t diminish my appreciation of my surroundings. I noticed lots of flood barriers in front of riverside houses which was interesting. I got out into the countryside and thankfully found a riverside hotel which though wasn’t officially open let me have a cup of coffee and use their facilities. I didn’t hurry and watched the rain outside.

I didn’t want to overstay my welcome so continued and thankfully the rain began to ease and the sun came out. I passed a Marina and then temprarily diverted away from the river as the route took me beside a road. I stopped again for a coffee and a snack in a handy roadside cafe. I was killing time a bit. As I walked I saw countryside to my right and industrial units to my left.

I walked along the riverbank through the village of Saxilby and along a canal/river to my campsite. It wasn’t busy and my neighbour was quite friendly although I did hear him in the night .

I got a great welcome from the owners who once I was set up invited me for a glass of wine and a chat. It made my stay there all the more special, another example of the kindness of strangers.

Slow Ways Route Gaisax one

Today I timed my departure from the camp site to coincide with the opening time of the cafe in the village where I stopped for breakfast.

I was back on my Slow Way again now so I made sure I went to the railway station as this was yesterday’s finish and today’s official start.

The first part to Sturton by Stow is all road walking and though it was quite busy it was easy enough to step on to the verge when cars were approaching. I was walking at my usual pace and don’t think I could go much slower.

I noticed these sheep who were grazing on what was left of the previous crop.

I arrived at the village of Sturton by Stow and decided it was time for a break so I got a drink and snacks at the Co-op. I walked through the village then across fields to the village of Stow.

The village of Stow was much smaller than Sturton by Stow and the next village of Willingham by Stow, but it’s age and importance was demonstrated by this beautiful church which was not open when I passed.

From Stow it was a series of tracks, paths and pasture to the village of Upton.

I had hoped there would be a shop in Upton but if there is I never found it. I had forgotten to fill up my water bottle so I finished what I had while I had a sit down. On this walk I have noticed how different communities have repurposed old telephone boxes. I had passed several mini libraries/book exchanges and the odd defibrillator. Upton’s was almost an art installation advertising their Chatterbox Cafe at the church.

From Upton to my destination of Gainsborough the going was much tougher. The paths seemed to all be going diagonally across fields. I was just too late in this part of the world as the farmers had cultivated and ploughed the fields after harvesting their crops. I didn’t enjoy this section.

I battled on and reached the town of Gainsborough. I had booked an Airbnb in a room above a pub so I quickly made sure I had completed the route before I checked in.

The pub itself showed that appearances can be deceptive. It looked a bit rough and when I was shown the room you went though a room with loads of junk and decorating stuff. It was obviously a work in progress. The room though was great, I had my own bathroom and plenty of space to get my tent dry. I had a great night’s sleep.

Slow Way Route Epwgai one

Today started with breakfast at Wetherspoons.

It was called the Sweyn Forkbeard. This led to some basic reading about the town’s Viking heritage while I was there. https://www.jdwetherspoon.com/pub-histories/england/lincolnshire/the-sweyn-forkbeard-gainsborough.

I had never really thought about rivers being navigable that far inland but I soon realised as I saw evidence of the River Trent’s past.

I crossed over the bridge and began walking beside the river.

I passed pumping stations and sluice gates showing how heavily managed the river is. My route took me along the top of the river embankment.

I chatted to man walking with his two dogs for a while. He was an interesting character and I loved the way his two little Yorkies bounced along.

I left the River Trent at West Stockwith Marina and headed up a stretch of the Weir Dyke towards Misterton.

I turned North at Misterton and saw more evidence of the ubiquitous water management in this area.

There were some great views along the waterway.

I was then back on the road again towards the village of Haxey va Graizelound

When I got to Haxey – I was ready for a rest and some lunch. The pub was closed but Google reckoned there was a cafe further along the road. It was great though sadly was closing in a couple of weeks. I made the most of it though and had soup and a sandwich.

For the final section to Epworth it was along tracks and through fields.

Epworth is famous as the birthplace of John and Charles Wesley. I passed the old Rectory where they were born. The town itself was quite touristy with nice looking small shops.

Tonight’s stay was a lovely Airbnb who provided snacks and a continental breakfast as well as the room.

Slow Ways Routes – Sanepw one, Thosan one

It was a fine morning and after a good night’s rest I was on the trail again. My Airbnb was just a few metres away from the Slow Way.

I walked out of the town and followed a footpath which took, beside fields and pastures.

There were quite a lot of corn fields and my first thought was I wonder when these will be harvested.

I turned a corner and got my answer.

As I walked on I was passed several times by the trailers carrying the harvested corn. I continued along a track which took me to the River Torne. I found it difficult to distinguish between rivers, canals and drains around these parts.

I walked beside the river for a while which was great.

I turned left and joined the road into the little village of Sandtoft which was the end of this first Slow Way. It was a long straight road and was backwards and forwards onto the verge to avoid fast moving traffic.

I stopped outside the pub for a rest which of course was not open. There really wasn’t much else in this village so continued on. The rest of today was all road walking.

I did notice two men clearing a hedge by hand across the ditch and stopped for a chat. We ended up talking about the way farming had changed since I grew up on the farm until I was 11. I can just about remember Dad having a horse as well as the tractor. One of the farmers said he had studied Agriculture at Newcastle and said how they had visited someone who still used horses. The consensus was it would not be cost effective. The only other highlight was the sign welcoming me to Yorkshire. It did give a feeling of accomplishment. More and more roads followed though – there was no change in my surroundings.

As I entered the town of Thorne, my destination for today I crossed the canal.

It was a long walk through the town to the end of the route.

I had a drink in the pub but they didn’t serve food so on my way to my Airbnb I called at a cafe and had a salad. The Airbnb was good. I just stayed in my room for the evening as I had had enough of walking today. After posting the route reviews I did wander whether it would have been more interesting to have taken a slightly longer route which would have had more canal walking.

Everything came to a head on that Thursday evening at my campsite at Glebe Farm, Kings Ripton. I knew then that I had to make decisions about my walk as I had to let people know in good time when exactly I would be finishing. My schedule was already two days behind and I knew now that my original itinerary was not working. Also the Trail Runners I had bought to replace the walking boots I had worn out in Spain just weren’t working with my feet and this walk. My blisters were not improving. That evening as I hobbled down to the toilet block I recognised there was no way I could continue like this. I was also sure that there was no way I could not finish this walk.

I had known I would have to revise my finish day almost since I cut short my walk at Watton at Stone, somehow I couldn’t see making up the time as an option. I had considered all kinds of options as I now had a booking at the Premier Inn in Peterborough on Friday which I couldn’t change. I could maybe get a bus into the city then back out and walk back there on Saturday.

The problem was that, I wasn’t sure I could physically walk even a shorter distance. So I made the decision on Thursday evening. I would get a taxi to Huntingdon on Friday, then get bus to Peterborough. I had now two nights booked at the Premier Inn. I would then get the train to Newcastle on Sunday where I could pick up my boots. Rev Danie had offered me a lift back to Peterborough on the Monday. I would then be able to visit the Oasis Community Housing Project in the afternoon then bus back to Huntingdon and taxi back to campsite. Hopefully my feet would have healed enough to continue walking on Tuesday. All in all that would mean four days rest for my feet, I hoped that this would be enough.

It all went to plan on Friday and I checked in at the hotel. One of the first things I did was have a long hot bath. This was the first one I had had in years. It was good to soak my feet. I replaced all the dressings and plasters and apart from a quick trip to the shops to stock up on more medical supplies the only time I left that room was to eat.

I got a taxi to the railway station on Sunday, then the train back to Newcastle and a taxi at the other end. I was determined to stay off my feet as much as possible. It was weird being at home when in my head I shouldn’t be there. I took the opportunity to do some washing, and re-pack my backpack. I got my boots and re-proofed them and also changed my tent. I was also quite ruthless in leaving behind things I thought I could do without. I was surprised when I weighed my pack it was lighter than I started out with even with a heavier tent.

There was still a nagging feeling in all of this that somehow I had failed, ridiculous I know, but my expectations of this walk had been well and truly shattered.

Slow Ways Routes – Stnhun one, Hunram one

It was a fine sunny morning as I woke up, but once again there was loads of condensation and therefore a wet tent. I waited as long as I could before etting off to make use of the sunshine. The campsite was on the route so I picked up the trail along through the Riverside Park towards the town centre.

Then through some narrow streets and back to the river bank. This part of the walk in the early morning sunshine was quite idyllic.

My feet weren’t too bad since I hadn’t been walking long but I was still troubled by having to wear waterproof socks because the grass was so wet. Nothing could dampen (pun intended) my joy and enthusiasm walking this section of the route.

I soon crossed over the river and walked through the village of Little Paxton. I then entered a nature reserve where there were good trails and loads of bird watching hides though I didn’t have time to stop beyond a quick drink and snack.

The trails were well marked and I found myself walking on the Ouse Valley Way. The scenery was just so wonderful, the trail had been maintained so I was able to fully appreciate nature all around me.

Of particular note were the many crab apple trees and the wonderful smell of ripe fruit.

I met a walker coming in the opposite direction who had recognised me from the campsite last night. Interestingly he is the only person I met who had already heard about Slow Ways, though he hadn’t consciously walked any routes. My feet were troubling me but I continued on trying to focus on the beauty around me. I happened to glance down at the trail and noticed a hole just as I put my foot down with wasps coming in and out. Sadly I wasn’t quick enough to avoid getting stung. Thankfully it was just one but it was really painful. It did take my mind off my feet for a while though.

I passed the villages of Offord D’arcy and Offord Cluny on the opposite bank then the trail took me through the Buckden Marina. There were lots of very nice boats, nice cars and posh chalets with a generous sprinkle of Private Property signs. I was longing for a place to sit and have some lunch but felt intimidated by the place. On the way out I found a tree stump to sit on so I settled for that and when a bench became free I moved to that and settled down for a break. I had a lovely view over the river.

I was minding my own business when a lady comes out of the nearest chalet, chats and asks me if I would like a cup of tea. Her and her husband had noticed me and felt they should offer some hospitality. Of course I accepted and explained what I was doing. I finished my lunch with a lovely cup of tea and then the husband came out and chatted too. It was so unexpected and I felt a bit ashamed for having pre-judged the residents of this place.

As I was was walking I was also going over possible changes to my itinerary. I was beginning to realise that shorter daily distances were better for me. I booked a room at the city centre Premier Inn in Peterborough on Friday night and thought about maybe getting a bus to take advantage of the booking then maybe getting a bus back on Saturday then walking back to Peterborough. All these things were going through my head but on I walked. I did come up with a plan but more about that later.

I continued along the river and then left it to make my way into the town of Huntingdon. As I was waiting to cross the road at a busy junction a lady came up behind me and engaged me in conversation. We talked about fund raising and how she had done some sponsored walking recently. We walked together towards the town centre and I learnt that she was a Ukrainian who had been in the country for 30 years and heard how she had managed to get her father out of the country when the war started. Her name is Alla and now we are Facebook friends.

I arrived in the centre of Huntingdon which was the end of this Slow Way and had a short break in the square. I needed to give my feet a rest as I still had a way to go to get to my campsite in the village of Kings Ripton. Huntingdon seemed to be making the most of it’s connections to Oliver Cromwell and I felt quite proud to be sitting on this bench in a coronation year!

I set off again and walked uphill through Huntingdon and out into the fields. I was walking along a busy road and thankfully for the first half I could walk on a footpath beside it. I passed the crematorium and from then on as far as the campsite I was backwards and forwards on and off the grass verge to avoid the traffic. The campsite was quite nice and had lovely hot showers and clean toilets and even a socket to charge my phone.

I checked my feet and found they were a lot worse than I thought. I had to make some radical decisions, but more of that in the next exciting instalment.

Slow Ways Route – Snatho one

I walked through the town of Thorne noting that these bits were a bit more affluent than the areas I saw yesterday.

My first destination was the retail park where I had identified McDonalds as my preferred breakfast option. I people watched as I breakfasted then set off again. I successfully crossed under the M18 and set off towards the River Don.

As I walked along the side of the road it grieved me to see so much litter which so obviously had been chucked out of cars as they passed. Yes I had been on footpaths with some litter but roadsides seem to be a common dumping ground. It seemed to me that people have become separated from the landscape and the places they live in and travel through. One of the great things about walking is that you have a better connection to where you are.

I reached the river and walked over the bridge. It was flowing quite fast.

I passed a more extreme example of littering. Sadly fly tipping was evident all along this journey.

The walk along the river was very pleasant in the morning sunshine.

I approached a farmhouse at the end of this stretch of road. Just as I passed an old man was coming out of the house to sit on a bench.

He started chatting and invited me to sit with him. I was so glad I had a short journey today as I felt relaxed about taking the time to stop. We had a great time. I told him about what I was doing and he gave me a potted history of his life as a farmer, stories of his family and the flood a few years ago. His daughter came out the house and made us a cup of tea. It made my day to share some lime with such a lovely man. But I did have to go on eventually.

Flood defences were common.

I left the river and crossed over the Aire and Calder Navigation.

The scenery changed as I headed through fields and over another motorway, the M62 this time.

I walked through the village of Cowick into the town of Snaith. Both village and town are proud of their heritage.

I was really early so had a look round the town centre and stopped at a cafe for a sandwich and a cup of tea. I found my way to the Vicarage where I was staying and met my host Rev Eleanor Robertshaw.

My stay here was such a joy, I was happy being quiet, and catching up with things. We shared a meal together later and I was interested to find out she knew the man I chatted to earlier. The hospitality was great and for me this was a lovely place of quiet rest.

Slow Ways Routes – Selsna one, Cawsel one

I set off after a convivial breakfast, thankful that I had missed the rain yesterday evening and night. I left the quiet streets and was soon crossing the River Aire.

It was good walking on the embankment beside the River despite the wet grass.

The route changed to tracks and minor roads. I could see the ever present pylons leading to Drax Power Station on the horizon.

These pheasants were the only bit of wildlife’ I noticed.

It wasn’t all nature – I’m not sure what the story was here.

More footpaths, roads and then besides the Selby Canal.

I walked into the town of Selby – past the official end of my first Slow Way.

My priority now was to find somewhere for lunch. As it happens there was a handy Wetherspoons which was open. I headed there for some lunch and a soft drink. I had restricted myself to only having a pint after finishing walking for the day. It had been threatening rain for some time and while I was having lunch the heavens opened. I didn’t rush and it did seem to be easing so I set off, heading for a Greggs to pick up stuff for my tea later. As I approached Greggs the rain started getting heavier so I took time to get my waterproofs on again!

I came out of Greggs – struggling to get my backpack properly adjusted and noticed a young man sitting on the pavement trying to shelter. He asked me for some money for a coffee and after I had given him more than he was expecting we got chatting. His name was Alan and he was homeless. He assured me he wasn’t going to use money to buy drugs but I assured him there were no strings attached. He explained a bit about his current situation and I shared what I was doing. I felt so sad that he said he would like to give me a hug but he couldn’t because he was conscious he smelt bad. We parted and once again it brought home to me just why I was walking. I just wished there was more I could have done to help. As I left him I looked across and saw lots of well dressed people coming out of Selby Abbey and thought about the contrast.

I walked on though and was soon out in the countryside again on my next Slow Way to Cawood. It was a bit muddy in places.

I passed through the attractive village of Wistow. Thankfully the rain had passed.

Then finally to my destination of Cawood on the River Ouse.

Not sure if these count as wildlife. They seemed to be happy beside the bridge over the river.

I had a room booked at the pub. I had my pint since I had finished walking and then just had my stuff from Greggs. It was a lovely room and I had a good night’s rest.

Slow Ways Routes – Sanbig two, Sanstn two

I had booked breakfast at the hotel where I was staying so it was a leisurely start to the day. Yesterday had been a short walk so while not quite a day off it was the next best thing. It was a fine day, I was glad I had escaped yesterday’s rain. I was soon out of the town and along a beautiful path beside the River Ivel.

After crossing over the river I headed off across the meadows.

It was all going so well until I ended up in a section of the path which was heavily overgrown with brambles and nettles. I briefly regretted my clothing choice of T shirt and shorts. I congratulated myself on getting through that and then crossing underneath the East Coast Main Line that I met the next obstacle. A field which hadn’t been grazed for a long time. The grass, thistles and nettles were chest high and very wet. I scanned around for an alternative path but couldn’t find one so just had to battle though. I regretted this time my choice of footwear. My trail runners apart from giving me blisters were not waterproof. After a few metres my feet were soaked. I found a spot to dry my feet and put on the waterproof socks I wish I had started the day with but by that time the damage was done. I continued on damp, scratched from the thistles and brambles and tingling from the nettles.

I ended up on a better path, heading over a footbridge into some woodland. Here was a stark reminder that we need a Reight to Roam here in England. I don’t know the particular reasons why they felt they needed so much security to keep people out of this area but it saddened me especially since the RSPB sanctuary was just ahead which had very sensible access codes. They limited dog walkers to particular paths and marked some areas as off limits but allowed general access otherwise.

I was

The walk up and over the hill through RSPB’s reserve at the Lodge, Sandy. This was a really beautiful part of today’s walk.

After this beauty it was down the hill into the town of Sandy. Apologies to Sandy but I must have missed the best bits because I wasn’t tempted to stop despite the fact I was ready for a lunch stop.

Leaving the town I faced the first of today’s navigational issues. I had to cross the A1 but the route was impassable because of traffic and safety fencing. It took a few minutes for me to find the correct diversion which took me under the road through an industrial estate. It was a nice track through fields back to the Ivel at the village of Blunham.

I got some snacks at the local shop and sat on a convenient bench and had a break. For the second time that day I had to sort my feet out as the plasters wre coming off after my feet had got wet earlier.

Onward I went though from now until the outskirts of St Neots it was all road walking. Going through the village of Tempsford I was supposed to cross back over the A1 but once again the route was wrong. After a bit of a detour I came across some farmers who pointed me in the right direction. Then there were several kilometres of walking beside a fairly busy road which became a bit of a slog. My feet were hurting and there was little around me to take my mind off them. This was one of those days you just wanted to get to the end but it always seemed further to go.

Eventually after crossing a field or two I picked up the riverside path along the River Great Ouse. Thanks to Andy on WhatsApp for fun facts about the Great Ouse! This did cheer me up a bit. After trying to find my way though a new industrial estate I arrived at my campsite.

I was so grateful to get pitched up, and showered. I decided I needed some proper food so walked into the town and found Wetherspoons. I had a drink and something to eat and was grateful to be able to finally rest after what seemed like a long day.

Slow Ways Route – Cawyor one

Today I would start and end my day beside the River Ouse. I read that Archbishops of York had a palace here at Cawood and read too that in 1066 Viking ships were moored on the river here too. I negotiated the traffic on the bridge and set off walking on the embankment beside the river.

I came to the village of Kellfield with this nod to it’s Viking heritage along with the modern beacon.

Then tracks and fields on the way to Stillingfleet

Through the village of Stillingfleet

Then onto a road then farm tracks before reaching the Trans Pennine Trail.

It was along here I chatted to a local man in his 80s who told me at great length about the wildlife and agriculture around me. He was on an electric trike but put my fitness to shame. I passed this remnant of the trail’s railway days, though the distances didn’t correspond to my route.

I walked through the village of Naburn as I returned to the banks of the River Ouse again. I was hoping for a village shop but it was closed.

I continued along this railway path until I reached Bishopthorpe the current home of the Archbishop of York.

Thankfully I found a cafe which was open in the village/town and had a well deserved break. I passed the racecourse and arrived at the city.

I will admit to bias but York’s Millenium Bridge is not a patch on Gateshead’s.

I had arrived in York. I walked past then on some of the City Walls to my Slow Ways destination at the Railway Station.

I had booked an Airbnb room for the night which was just inside the City Walls. The view from my room was of the wall. This place was a delight the room was great and I was able to get all my washing done and dried. York was another milestone on my journey – almost but not quite on the home stretch.

Slow Way – Bigsto one

Today was a day for getting sorted. I desperately needed to get my clothes properly washed and last night I had discovered that there was a coin operated laundrette in Stotfold. Stotfold was technically the end of yesterday’s route and the beginning of today’s, I had camped just before reaching the town. Fortuitously I had only about 12 -13k to walk today so I was not under any time pressure.

I began to walk today with a fresh sense of calmness and peace, confident that all would be well and reminding myself of what I had designated the theme tune of my walk.

Even in this midst of this calmness and peace there were still stray thoughts. I was not 100% confident in Google. I wondered whether the launderette would still exist or if it did would it be open? Thankfully I walked up the main street and there it was, and it would be opening at 9.00. Even better there was an open coffee shop next door. A second breakfast was beckoning so I went in ordered a coffee and croissant and settled down to wait also charging my power bank.

The owner, Ian was really friendly and I kind of got involved in conversations with other customers as they came and went. I discovered what his customers thought about local issues and I almost felt part of local life. In between customers I ended up sharing, not just the reason for my walk but quite personal things about my faith journey. Daryl at the laundrette was great too and I enjoyed chatting with him as I got my washing done. It was a joyful and productive pause on my walk. I was not expecting much from a town like Stotfold but I was more than pleasantly surprised how my expectations were surpassed.

It was time to move on though. I shed a bit of weight by dumping my broken camping chair in a bin as I left. My route took me out of town along well used paths through flat fields. They may have been flat but were never short of interest as I walked. The weather forecast was for rain and I was conscious of clouds gathering and I was sure I could occasionally see rain showers in the distance.

Ian at the coffee shop assured me I would come across a real hill. Sure enough I eventually did start walking up a hill but decided he had rather oversold it’s severity.

As I walked I often wondered what the crops were that I was walking past – Sugar Beet maybe. Other times I realised I had not really realised how industrial farming was these days. I remembered the days when I grew up on the farm until I was eleven. Half a dozen cows milked by hand, potatoes, cauliflowers, anemones and other crops, even in my earliest memories a horse, although we had a tractor too. A very different world.

I mused too about the prevalence of wind turbines on this section. I’ve never had a problem with turbines and wind farms and have never really seen them as a blot on the landscape, even finding a certain elegance in their design

There were lovely splashes of colour too like these sunflowers forming a border round the field.

I had to cross the East Coast Main Line to get to the village of Langford. I had been conscious of the trains for some time and hadn’t realised how busy it was. This crossing was one where I had to use the phone to ring someone for permission to cross. I think the control room was in York! I did get permission to cross after the next train went by and then had to ring them again from the other side to tell them I had crossed safely. I did feel quite safe. I remembered a visit to a signal box with my Grandfather when I was seven. We went to Acklington in Northumberland to see the Flying Scotsman. I remember the signal box, not so much the train as it went past so fast. Once again these were memories of a different time and a different world when Signal Boxes were still a thing.

I was hoping for a cafe in Langford but I couldn’t find one so settled for a drink and snack from the local shop. While I was queuing I got chatting to a lady who turned out to be a teacher at the local primary school. She said if only she had known I was passing through I could have spoken to her Year 6 class. I’m not sure how I could have planned that though. Leaving the village I had to cross back over the railway again. This was a light controlled level crossing. I made sure it was green and crossed quickly but didn’t feel half as safe as last time.

Today’s destination was Biggleswade where I had booked Bed and Breakfast at a hotel. I felt I needed a reset. Just on the outskirts I had to put on my waterproof jacket as it started to rain. This was a novelty. It wasn’t very heavy rain but I was glad when I arrived at the hotel. I was a bit soon to check in so had a drink and something to eat. It was good to to look out of the window at the rain.

It was great to have a proper bed and an en-suite shower and be able to get everything charged up properly. I was a bit worried about my feet though. The blisters did not appear to be healing. I went down the road to the pharmacy and re-stocked with blister plasters. I decided to just wear my flip flops but it was a quite uncomfortable walk. I initially was a bit conflicted spending money on a hotel room but decided I had the money and I needed the extra rest.

Slow Ways Route – Shiyor one

Today began by walking through the centre of the city in the early morning to pick up my Slow Way at the Railway Station

I was drawn back to the reason I was walking by this banner on a wall

I was soon walking beside the river just enjoying how beautiful it was

The route took me away from the river for a short stretch.

Then it was back beside the river again, this time on a high embankment. I was conscious of the East Coast Main Line in thebackground as I walked.

I followed the joint cycle path away from the river through some woodland only to check my map and discover I had missed a turning. I retraced my steps anf found the right path and then discovered it was closed for repairs so I retraced my steps again to where I had turned back before. If you can follow that.

I had a bit of road walking to do through the village of Overton, and on towards the East Coast Mainline and my hotel for the night. I did notice some hills in the distance which was a novelty on this walk.

The railway carriages are the bedrooms. It was a themed hotel right beside the busy railway line. I went in and had a beer and chatted to the man behind the bar. He was impressed by what I was doing and gave me a pint on the house.

I returned jlater that evening and had some authentic Greek foood which was superb. I was getting

Slow Ways Route – Balwal one, Stobal two

It was a nice quiet night and I had a good sleep. I was packed up and ready to set off by 07.30. I felt calmer and confident that I could do this, but there were still problems with blisters and because of my slipping schedule I would have to start re-arranging accommodation which I had booked before I started. I had phone tonight’s campsite yesterday and told them I would be a day late so at least that was sorted.

I had a couple of kilometres to walk back to the village of Walkern where today’s route started. I reckon I will have walked over 400 miles in reality by the time I finish the walk. Out of the village it was into the fields. It was rolling countryside with a well defined track. At least that what I thought. I was feeling good and was happily walking along when I realised I should have cut across the field rather than continuing along the track. This wasn’t the last time I would do this!

Whilst fields which have been harvested have a certain barren attractiveness there is nothing like blocks of colour when you come across crops which have not been harvested or the beautiful hedgerows.

My issues with navigation were not over. I was convinced after looking at my OS App on my phone I was going in the right direction down a really lovely path between trees only to realise I wasn’t

Back on the right path I passed through the little village of Hall Green. I passed a pub and seeing some lads having coffee outside thought that maybe for some weird reason it was open. Not something I was expecting on a Monday morning in the country, Wetherspoons it was not. I did go and have a look only to discover that it was indeed closed and they were just using the benches to have their break.

So on I went heading out through pastures and fields again.

Surprisingly enough I actually met a walker coming in the opposite direction. He had a camera with him and looked as if he knew what he was doing. It turns out he was local so we chatted for a few minutes about the local countryside and the fact that people underrated the walking in the area even though there were loads of walking paths. He also told me about some Red Kites in the woodland ahead though I never saw any that day.

I came to the village of Weston and there was a handy bench so I sat down and had a refreshment stop. I decided I had better do something about my accommodation for the next few nights. I managed to book a hotel room in Biggleswade for tomorrow and changed my booking at the campsite in St Neots the day after. It took a while a some stress but I changed my accommodation in Peterborough too. I decided to split tomorrow’s walk into two so I would be two days behind schedule. I think in my enthusiasm when I planned the walk that I would walk further each day. I think I will definitely need to change the day I finish. I will look at stuff when I am in decent accommodation and plenty of charge on my phone and power bank.

I continued along good tracks and paths over the hills and down into the town of Baldock.

I decided in could do with somewhere nice for lunch. I found a great coffee shop with really nice food and power points so I could charge my phone and powerbank.

After being suitable refreshed with food and power on I went. Under a railway, then over the A1. It seemed like for a while I would never be too far from either the East Coast Main Line or the A1. I was following a shared cycle route at this point through lovely countryside again. Today was really good walking.

Just before Stotfold I headed off route to my campsite at Radwell. The path took me through some lovely woodland.

I did seem to take the long way round to get to campsite when I got near the village. I passed yet another attractive church, I just love them.

Today was not a good navigation day! I got pitched up, it felt a bit weird not actually seeing anyone around. I had pre-paid so I did not need to check in, just find a space and put my tent up. The site was very basic but had all the essentials. As I sat outside my tent my super lightweight camping chair collapsed. It must have been my less than super light weight.

I decided that as the Baldock Services on the A1 were just 15 minutes walk up the road I thought I would get something to eat and see if I could get some charging done. As I negotiated my way round the access roads I was thinking that it felt in some way ‘wrong’ for a walker to be at these services. I looked at all the people coming and going in their cars and felt out of place. But I was on a mission. I got some fast food and then when browsing in the shop spotted a small power bank with an attached charging cable which I thought would be good for keeping in my pocket so I could charge my phone as I walk. I then spent some time in Starbucks charging as much as possible. Then as night fell I walked back to the campsite. It did cross my mind that for a bit more money I could have stayed at the hotel at the Services.

Slow Ways Route – Easshi one

Distance 21km / 13 mi

Breakfast was included so I got packed up and enjoyed a leisurely start looking at the passing trains. It was a straightforward walk today with a long stretch of road walking. I had booked a room just before the village of Easingwold above an Indian restaurant. I set off into and through the village of Shipton taking a selfie to prove I had actually been there. You can tell that I am still not used to selfies from the bemused expression.

My route took me through pastures and along field edges until I reached the road.

Thankfully it was not very busy. I was just settling into a rhythm and enjoying my walk when I realised I had walked off with my room key. This was a real key as opposed to the cards you often get these days. I was just thinking of different options on how to return it when I got a telephone call from the hotel. From my conversations yesterday they knew where I was staying so they assured me they would pick the key up from me this evening. It made life easy for me but I felt bad that they were putting themselves out on account of my absent mindedness. One good thing about walking up country lanes is you go much faster than across ploughed fields.

I eventually came to the village of Huby just before 12.00 and was ready for a break. I found a wonderful Community Shop with a bench outside. It was so good to see this community venture flourishing.

I called in and picked up a drink, sandwich and some snacks. It was the kind of place where people are happy to chat and once I had explained what I was doing they kindly gave me a free flapjack. It is these small acts of kindness which make this journey very special.

I continued on. This half of todays route was through fields and pastures and along farm tracks. There were several fields which were full of cows. In general I am ok with cows, especially since I grew up with them until I was eleven, though they were Jerseys so maybe different. They were more curious than anything. The only real difficulty was finding the gaps in the electric fences.

After negotiating this local ‘wildlife’ and the accompanying stretch of slurry filled path the going was easier. I saw a sign for the Cabinet Office Emergency Planning College and wondered what kind of emergency they were planning for now.

It wasn’t long after this I approached Easingwold and had a short walk along a busy road to reach my accommodation for the night. I got a call about the room key and headed downstairs to the restaurant to hand it over. I was amazed that they didn’t seem upset at all at having to drive from Shipton to get a key, indeed they were ordering a take away. The insisted on buying me a drink too. Today was a day when people were being so kind to me, it was a bit overwhelming to be honest.

Slow Ways Route – Walkwat one

I woke early, and watched the sun rise illuminating the little valley stretched out before me. In other circumstances the mist hanging in the valley bottom would have been idyllic but there I was anxious about now being a day behind and with a phone which was about to die. I got packed up as soon as I could so my kind neighbours wouldn’t have to wait. One of the other campers came up and chatted about my tent and then offered me his power bank to charge my phone for a few minutes. Every little helps. I got my lift back into Watton. When I got there the church bells were ringing and whilst I could have started walking straight away I decided I would go to church.

There were just a few people there when I arrived who were so welcoming. Obviously when I walk in with a backpack the conversation turns to what I am doing and why. I summon up the courage to ask if I can charge my phone while I am there and it was no problem at all. I would not be the first occasion where I think that not only was I blessed because my need was met because I asked for help but others were blessed too because they were able to help. I met others as they arrived and the feeling of welcome was all the greater. I was able to meet the Rector who I had spoken to on the phone the day before which was good.

The service was lovely and reminded me of those I had grown up with at St Lawrence in Jersey. The last hymn was Guide me O Thou Great Redeemer. As the Rector finished her notices at the end of the service, she made mention of having a pilgrim in their midst and invited me up to tell everyone what I was doing. I did that and then the the Rector decided I needed some breakfast and soon a volunteer was found to feed me before I set off again. It was all quite overwhelming, receiving the kindness of strangers who were strangers only in the sense that I had not met them before. A lovely couple gave me tea and bacon sandwiches and then I started walking again. I had a very precious time with the folk at St Andrew and St Mary’s church. It was a very late start but I booked a pitch oat the campsite where I had been last night online so I knew I was ok for somewhere to sleep. I also had a fully charged phone. I knew I would have to suffer the heat of the day but that was a given, no matter when I started.

I set off through the beautiful Hertfordshire countryside. It was hot but there was some occasional breezes. I only had one minor navigational error when I was trusting the downloaded route on my phone rather than the public footpath sign I passed.

It was lovely rolling countryside with mainly tracks through the fields. I came to the village of Benington which the OS Map reckoned had a pub. I began dreaming of a nice cool pint of lemonade, my drink of choice if I hadn’t finished walking for the day. When I got there I discovered the pub had closed down, what a disappointment! I had to make do with some water. I did find a shady bench though. I was getting more concerned about my feet as they were really sore.

On I walked to the village of Walkern which was the end of today’s route. I stopped at the local shop and stocked up on drinks and snacks then walked a bit further down the street to the pub which was open! I chatted to some people at the bar and got directions to the campsite at Church Farm, Ardley. It was a lovely walk over a bridge beside a ford, past an old church and through some woodland. The campsite felt very different from last night. It was almost deserted and the pitch I was allocated was in some woodland, which seemed a long way from the entrance. I got pitched up then decided I needed to go to the pub to get some charging done. Sadly they had stopped serving food again by the time I arrived but it was a great friendly place.

As the day ended I reflected how kind people had been to me in so many different ways and that a large part of my life I had not been open to receiving from others because of my independent nature and the determination not to be a bother to people.

Slow Ways Route – Thieas two – Easingwold to Thirsk

Distance 21km / 13mi

It was a wet start to a wet day today. I was up and about without seeing anyone at the restaurant and set off in the rain. I was tempted to take the direct route into the village along the road but my conscience wouldn’t allow such a departure from the official route.

Easingwold looked a really nice place with a lovely market square and interesting shops. I found an open café for some breakfast and a chance to get out of the rain. Sadly the rain showed no signs of stopping so I got my waterproof jacket back on and set off again. Another selfie, this time I seem to be smiling even in the rain!

As I left the village I was so surprised to find I was walking up a hill. It wasn’t a massive one but on this walk I just wasn’t used to them. I walked on up a country lane then headed off across the fields. There was lots of mud, and even more wet grass. I was thankful I had changed my footwear in Lincoln.

As I walked through the fields, even in the rain, there were interesting views.

I was climbing steadily and was rewarded with views over the surrounding countryside when the rain abated.

Once over the hill I looked down towards the village of Husthwaite. My map told me there was a pub there and I was ready for a break. I wasn’t focussed on my surroundings so much when thinking about a break so I missed the white horse on the hillside in the distance. Sadly the pub in this village was shut and there didn’t appear to be much else to stop for so on I went to the next village of Carlton Husthwaite.

Thankfully I had arrived in the village just as the pub opened so just stopped for a drink as it was a bit soon for food. The barman was happy to chat and I enjoyed my brief time there. He mentioned that I would see the white horse so I did look out for it. I set off again past an attractive church and obligatory thatched cottage. The cottage was handily labelled but I thought fairly obvious.

Once out of the village I looked across at the hills and there was the white horse carved into the hillside. I blame the rain obscuring my view earlier.

It was still raining and the town of Thirsk just couldn’t come quick enough, unfortunately it wasn’t that quick. I finally arrived and checked in to my room at the Wetherspoons pub in the town square just as the sun began to shine.

Once I got changed out of my wet things I went downstairs for a pint and something to eat. I was so glad that this day was over though disappointed that the rain had taken the edge of what was a beautiful walk.

Slow Ways Routes – Herhod two, Wather one

The pitch I had chosen for last night’s camp was just by the river and turned out to be shared with a lot of rabbits as i discovered by their plentiful droppings. It had a great view which I saw when I woke up.

This was my first night’s camping on this journey and it took me a while to get sorted and packed away. It had been a still and humid night so the tent was wet with dew on the outside and condensation on the inside. I gave it a bit of time to dry in the early morning sunshine but I needed to be on my way. In the end it was 08.15 by the time I set off.

1.81km later I was in Hoddesdon which was technically the end of yesterday’s route and the start of today’s. I stopped at a cafe for a coffee before setting off towards Hertford.

Things were going ok as I walked through Hoddesdon though I was a bit later than I had planned. Once I left the town I was out into quintessentially English countryside. It was so beautiful and did my soul the power of good to walk on a day like this. YOU do always have to be aware that you are in the midst of a busy landscape, so there was a diversion because of pipe laying and the path led through a sizeable new housing development construction site.

My route took me through the playing fields of Haileybury College which their website tells me is a leading independent co-educational day and boarding school set in 500 acres of Hertfordshire countryside. It was huge and to my eyes at least posh. Thankfully there weren’t many people around so I found a quiet, shaded bench looking out onto an empty cricket ground to have some water and a snack. Quite suddenly I seemed to be surrounded by teenage girls who were playing hockey; why they had picked my spot to gather I don’t know but almost immediately two staff members and and stood right in front of me. I got the hint after exchanging some awkward comments and was on my way. I suppose I did look a bit like some disreputable scruffy old bloke.

It was getting hotter and it was beginning to get to me but on I went, through some woodland and through a quaint village complete with village green with the locals playing, not bowls but very un-english petanque.

The route took me through more fields and woodland, to Foxwells farm, where there are family activities and a farm shop/café. Then I was soon into the streets of Hertford heading towards my first destination of the day, East Hertford Railway Station. I was beginning to struggle by this point, the heat was really getting to me and my feet were very sore.

I stopped at a handy Tesco Store just up the road and had some lunch. I can’t say I wasn’t tempted though when this bus pulled up which was stopping at Watton at Stone, my next destination of the day.

I resisted the temptation and set off again. I had by this point only completed one third of what I planned for today. I can tell I was finding things difficult because I only took one photo on this part of my route. This is despite the fact it was really beautiful. Hedgerows, fields, some shady woodland thankfully and for a large part of the way you are walking beside a chalk stream. Sadly the heat and discomfort took the edge of this awesome countryside.

As I neared the village of Watton at Stone I began to seriously question whether I could manage to complete my planned itinerary for today. From here I had a further 10km / 6 miles to the next village and then to the campsite I had booked. I reached the village and its beautiful church having made up my mind I could go no further. I chatted to a cyclist doing a sponsored ride outside the church and then I walked into the village and found a pub for a cool drink. As I sat there I considered my options. I telephone the Rector of the church but she was not able to help but suggested I could possibly camp in the Glebe Field beside the church and told me to call the Church Warden. I couldn’t get past an answering machine though and I was beginning to get a bit desperate. What had sounded to easy when I was planning this walk was turning into anything but.

In the end I found I could get an Uber at a reasonable rate to take me to the campsite I had already booked so I did that. I checked in and pitched up. The ground was hard but I got myself sorted. I reckoned I could get an Uber back to Watton in the morning.

I didn’t have the energy to go to the local pub especially since they had stopped serving food by that time. In hindsight this was probably a mistake since to top everything else I realised my power bank was empty and my phone had only 36% power left. I hadn’t been diligent in keeping everything charged. Without my phone I would not be able to navigate apart from not being able to keep in touch. Today was certainly a reality check. All my plans and expectations had come crashing down around me today.

The day however finished on a positive note. My neighbours in the next tent got chatting and have offered me a lift back to Watton as it is not too much of a detour from their route home.

Slow Ways Route – Northi one – Thirsk to Northallerton

Distance 18km / 11 mi

It was great to be able to go downstairs at 07.00 and have a Wetherspoons breakfast, it made for a nice start to the day. I took my selfie to prove I had finished and started my Slow Ways Route

I headed through the town past some small shops and then down to the river past the church.

I had another ‘beside still waters’ moment.

I had a few senior navigational moments as I crossed a riverside meadow but continued along the river where I came across the first of today’s diversions. The footbridge was being repaired so I was diverted through the village of Kilverton and beside the roads until I could re-join the path. I managed to understand the map provided. I continued on using farm tracks then headed off across some fields which once again tested my navigational skills. It was one of those days. As I approached the Thornton stud there was another set of signs and maps. The actual route was quite straightforward in the end but in the confusion I apparently missed an obvious statue of the Buddha! I was happy to find a yellow arrow which reminded me of the Camino, navigation was so much easier on that walk.

Past the stud I was treated to some more views. I did notice the rain in the distance and hoped it would stay far away.

I stopped at the village of Thornton-le-Moor for a short break. I couldn’t see anything here apart from houses so made do with a handy bench and what I had in my pack. Going on I came to a field of corn, thankfully there was a way through.

I arrived at the town of Northallerton. It was only 13.45 so it was off to Wetherspoons for some refreshment.

It was too early to be thinking about checking in to my Airbnb but thankfully I found a handy booth in Wethersppons where I could settle in for the afternoon and charge my devices and get my Slow Ways Route review and my social media posts sorted. When it was time I headed to my Airbnb which turned out to be very nice.

Slow Ways Routes – Enfiwal one, Enfiwalt two, Cheswal two, Chehod one

Waking up to the familiar surroundings of my son’s house in Walthamstow – today felt like a second first day. This was the first solo walk of my journey, the first day I would be camping it was like a fresh start. I left as soon as I could as I was conscious of the distance to walk 29km / 18 miles and the heat. A short walk led me to the official start of today’s walk in Walthamstow.

I just love the colours of the fruit and vegetables, and the vibe of an outdoor market.

I walked through city streets for a while.

Then it was over the brow of the hill and a gentle descent to the Lea Valley and Tottenham Marshes.

If I hadn’t have made the decision to follow Slow Ways all the way I would have just walked beside the Lea Navigation all day to my destination, it would have been easier and quicker but not for this journey. I was to meander through Enfield, Waltham Cross and Cheshunt before the end of the day. This was the first time on this journey that I mused on the difference between Slow Ways and other walking trails… Slow Ways in essence is to walk between places and that means sometimes you don’t follow the easiest or most scenic route through the countryside. Instead I head off past roads and industrial units to Enfield. This wasn’t necessarily a bad thing, I wanted to experience all that this country and this walk had to offer. It is possible to appreciate concrete and industry together with the wild flowers (aka weeds) which spring up and brighten the way.

The walk into Enfield town centre was through several, I suppose unremarkable neighbourhoods. Is this ever boring? Not for me it isn’t, I love looking around and getting a sense or attempting at least, to get a feel of the communities I am walking through. I passed a mother and her adult son coming out of their house. The son started speaking to me as he wondered what I was doing with a backpack and poles in their street but his mother called him away very quickly. I remember feeling a bit disappointed by this for some reason. I had other thoughts too, and I stopped at a local pharmacy on my route to stock up with blister plasters. I was getting more concerned about my feet. It wasn’t turning out to be the comfortable walk I had been planning.

I climbed over a very tall pedestrian bridge over the A10 along with many young people from the local school and thought about the idea of visiting an Oasis School which never progressed. I arrived at Enfield took a selfie to prove I was there and sat down with a dink and a couple of sausage rolls from Greggs. It was a shady spot as the temperature was rising. I was very aware of how far I still had to walk that day so on I went.. Apart from unremarkable streets there were some views which delighted the eye as the path took me behind houses and along the banks of this river.

I remember just entering a small estate and was so saddened to see some fly tipping, not in tome secluded place out of sight of anybody but just across the street from some houses. What kind of selfish person does that? I was feeling the heat as the day wore on but I did pass a significant milestone. I crossed over the M25! It felt like I had left London now. Visually it wasn’t very exciting as the M25 at that point went into a tunnel so I just walked over a patch of grass.

Waltham Cross was memorable for two things. First was the convenient Lidl where I got some supplies including a ready made salad for later. Second was the joy of walking multiple Slow Ways when you walk down a road to get to the railway station which is the end of that stage only then to retrace your steps as you start the next stage. Being a completist has its downsides in a heatwave.

More street walking to Cheshunt and I will admit my feet were hurting and what energy I had left was draining away. I took a break though I was now conscious that I still had one stage to go and time was getting on. My initial itinerary was proving to be challenging.

The last stage of my journey took me along the banks of the Lee Navigation, the canal beside the river. The heat was abating somewhat but increasingly I was just walking on auto pilot. I did my best to appreciate the beautiful scenery but I was struggling.

I arrived at the campsite I had pre-booked with just a few minutes before their reception and shop closed. It was nearly seven o’clock and I was completely knackered. I saw some cool cans of beer in the shop and before anything else I sat and rested. By the time I finished pitching my tent it was getting dark. It had been a gruelling day.

Slow Ways Routes – Hurnor one, Darhur one – Northallerton to Darlington

Distance 28km / 17mi

I knew today was going to be a longer day with 28km to walk. I had booked an Airbnb room in Darlington so I wasn’t worried about pitching a tent or thinking where to stay. All I had to think about was walking. So by 07.30 I was back in the town centre ready to start my walk.

I headed out of town, passing under the East Coast Main Line, never far from my thoughts and hearing on this stretch of my journey.

U was soon on country roads which made up a large part of today’s walk. I passed through the little village of Yafforth and was attracted by Howe Hill which is described as a Motte on the OS Map.

It was here that my senses were at risk of being overwhelmed, not by the awesome views and the beauty of the hedgerows but by the smell of the pig unit I passed. It was thankfully a fleeting moment as I powered on. I came to the village of Danby Wiske where I found the delightful campsite and facilities at Church Farm. They had an unmanned tuckshop, good toilets and a barn with kettle and mugs etc. I stopped here and made the most of everything. I decided this would have been a great place to stay but didn’t fit with my current itinerary.

On I went through the fields where I found some obstacles. This included the completely overgrown fence/ stile and the field where there was no recognisable path through the undergrowth.

The next obstacle was a field of cows. I wasn’t particularly worried about them as they were on the other side of the field. The problem came when I got to the gate out of the field and discovered it was very firmly tied shut. My only option was to climb over. As I was working all this out I happened to glance over my shoulder and was surprised to see the cows just behind me! Obviously I was the most intersting thing to happen to them that day. I scrambled over the gate as quick as I could.

Thankfully after I passed through the village of East Cowton and the ex railway station I was back on roads and farm tracks.

As I came over the brow of the hill I could see the River Tees and the village of Hurworth-on-Tees in the distance. As I descended the hill the village became clearer and I could see Darlington in the distance.

I was dreaming of maybe a pub in Hurworth and congratulating myself that I had cleaned all the mud off my boots when I came across the next obstacle. At Low Hall Farm I had to cross the farmyard which which several inches deep in slurry. Thankfully my boots were waterproof but they got well and truly covered. I crossed over the Tees and walked into the village.

Hurworth seemed a posh place with lots of very well appointed houses. I stopped and had a look round the church yard to see if there was a water tap to clean my boots but I couldn’t find one. I ended up nipping in to the village shop for something to eat and drink and hoping they wouldn’t notice my boots. I sat on a bench and looked out over the village green.

On I went across more fields and stiles towards Darlington. I saw the stadium in the distance then just before the town I encountered the last obstacle of the day, a building development. It took a bit of hunting around for the way through but I did eventually come out the other side and some woodland.

There wasn’t far to go through the streets until I came to the end of today’s slow ways.

My Airbnb was just a few minutes walk away and I was glad to have crossed the Tees. This was for me another milestone finally reaching County Durham as was and feeling that much closer to home.

Slow Ways Routes – Lonpec one, Lonmon two, Monliv one, Livdal one, Dalwal one

My journey across London on the tube and overground was quite painless even if it was the rush hour, not half as bad as I was expecting. I arrived at Peckham Rye Station and was immediately assaulted by the sights, sounds and smells of a lively and vibrant community.

This was the start of my Slow Ways walk but first it was just down the street and around the corner to the Oasis Community Housing project. It’s great that it’s so close to the Slow Ways route, almost as if they were made for each other.

I received video messages of support from Jo and Ben from Oasis and from Dave Smith the CEO which I don’t mind admitting brought a tear to my eye. I wasn’t prepared for the outpouring of support and encouragement which only got even greater when I met the staff and residents at the project. I was after all just doing a sponsored walk. There were balloons, cards and a huge breakfast. The quote of the day was one of the service users who said that it was “Well mad”

I had some filming to do with Andrew from Oasis and a bit of walking up and down to get video and photos. The result is below.

As I walked I reflected how wonderful the start of the walk had been. I felt very much that I was part of the team, not just some random supporter walking for a charity.

The first route was from Peckham to London Bridge. The vibrancy of Rye Lane with its sights, sounds and smells assaulting the senses soon transitioned through a public space to a more calming and more tranquil walking and cycling route along the Surrey Canal Walk, (no canal now), and through Burgess Park.

It changed again to more familiar urban streets. When I crossed the Old Kent Road my mind was transported back to playing Monopoly as a child. Those places belonged to another world and here I was in that world. The nearer I got to London Bridge the more gentrified the streets became and the contrast with Peckham was really strong. It’s not that one is better than the other I just love the variety you see in just a shortish walk. As a reviewer on the Slow Ways web site says “The walk is like an introductory course in urban sociology”.

Once I reached London Bridge the task was to find my walking companions for the next stage. My friend Alison was walking as far as Liverpool Street Station, (another Monopoly place) and Dan from Slow Ways who would walk with me to Dalston. Once I had managed to find them both we set off across London Bridge and onwards into London ‘proper’.

It was such a joy to be walking with others. Alison left us to return home to the North-East and I continued with Dan. Looking back I don’t remember much about central London, apart from huge buildings and construction projects. I was too busy enjoying my conversation with Dan. Apart from anything else he introduced me to the Slow Ways community on Twitter/X.

Dalston was an opportunity to find a bench to rest and have some water. This was the first time I realised that my feet were getting blisters. While I was resting I had one of those wonderful encounters with strangers. A mother and son were sitting next to me and we had a lovely chat. I couldn’t stop too long as I had arranged to meet my son Jonathan who had finished work early and would walk with me for the last part of the day. I had made sure the end of my first day was in Walthamstow so I could stay with them!

The busy London streets gave way to the Walthamstow Wetlands and the River Lee Navigation with its narrow boats and other craft. By mid afternoon I was flagging. The heat was really getting to me and my feet were hurting. But it was great to be sharing part of my walk with family too. We stopped off at a riverside pub for a much need pint, I needed the shade and the electrolytes.The route took us through some of the paths and streets I remembered from previous walks with Jonathan and Caitlin. Eventually we reached the official end of today’s walk at Walthamstow. There was still a little way though, to go though till I was able to rest.

Looking back over the day it was such a wonderful beginning to this adventure. I met so many people and was overwhelmed by their kindness and support. I managed to cross London(ish) in a day, with friends and family. I realised afresh how many communities make up this huge conurbation, how much variety. The only downside were the heat and blisters which took some of the edge off what otherwise has been an awesome day.

Slow Way Route – Housun one – Houghton-le-Spring to Sunderland

Distance 12km / 7 mi

It was back on the bus to return to Houghton-le-Spring and start of today’s Slow Way. I was not just walking to Sunderland but was visiting Sunderland Basis which is Oasis Community Housing’s drop in centre there.

It was a pleasant walk out of Houghton with some uphill sections out into the countryside. As I had done several times on this walk I thought of access issues for Slow Ways when I met a man in an electric wheeler at the top of this hill. It was as far as he could get as there was a gate which I found difficult to open.

I continued up past a quarry and looked back at the view.

I was enjoying the countryside and appreciating the hills.

When I got to the top I had good views towards the north including Penshaw Monument.

I went downhill past Down at the Farm Attraction then was faced with the first, (and thankfully last) overgrown path of the day.

I battled my way through and was quite surprised to see two walkers in front of me. I caught up with them just before a huge bank of nettles blocking the path and I shared where we were on my OS Map App. Keen to demonstrate my intrepid explorer skills I get busy with my poles to clear a path only to look back and see them retreating in the distance. My ego was crushed! However I had to press on and after getting through the nettles I was given directions from a farm worker which oddly enough confused me. I did eventually get back on the right path and headed off beside the A19.

I crossed the A19 and got details of when I was expected to be at the Drop In. I realised I needed to start speeding up. Thankfully the route into the city was on a shared cycle path so the walking was easy. I was pleasantly surprised too how nice this route was considering I was walking into the city centre.

I arrived with a few minutes to spare and was welcomed by Jo Armstrong. They were short staffed that day but I was given a tour and had some refreshments. I was so glad to be able to visit here today as it really keeps the focus on why I am walking.

It was soon time to return to my Slow Way. As I was being careful to complete each route I had to back track to where I had left the trail. I then continued on into the city centre.

Did that advert apply to me?

I finally arrived at my destination.

Today was the day when the planning and the preparation ended. Today was the day when I woke up both excited and wondering what on earth had I let myself in for. Today was the day I packed my backpack for the final time making last minute decisions to take my small cookset and leave my solar charger behind.

It felt odd – feeling strange as I waited for the bus to take me to the metro to take me to the train to take me to London. This is a long walk but quite unlike the feelings I had as I began my pilgrimage to Santiago. I am not sure how to describe it. I feel more confident of my abilities, after my experience on the Camino with its greater distance and its mountains. I am sure though that this walk will have different challenges.

The whole experience has been different from the start. This is something to be publicised and shouted from the rooftops. This is a walk of press releases and photo opportunities. Even though I am up for all the publicity for the cause, I also look forward to fading into obscurity once again.

The train journey was a very different experience too. I have travelled up and down on the East Coast Main line more times than I can remember but never taken much notice of the countryside until today. Today was the day I could look out of the train window and picture myself walking through those fields and towns and cities. For the first time I will have some understanding of and connection to what lies between Newcastle and London. I am excited by this chance.

Interestingly I spent a few moments this morning planning my next long walk. Iona to Lindisfarne – roll on next year!

Slow Ways Route – Shidar one – Darlington to Shildon

Distance 20km / 12mi

I made use of the coffee making facilities as I packed up this morning. The first part of my walk was through the town.

It was very quiet, not just because it was early but also because it was a Sunday. I hadn’t considered the nice bits of the town but as I crossed the river I thought this was a nice natural moment.

My main priority was breakfast of course and thankfully there was a handy Wetherspoons on my route. While I was there I checked my phone to discover I had just reached my fund raising target. It was a great boost at the beginning of my day. I walked out of town and the surroundings opened up with more greenspace.

I came to the edge of the town then I walked beside then under the A1

It was a mixture of tracks, fields and pasture until I reached Shildon. There was a fair bit when I transformed into intrepid explorer mode to find my way along overgrown sections. My main impression was how beautiful the countryside was though distant views were spoilt by the dull and damp weather. I had another moment beside still waters.

I then passed through the site of a medieval village at Walworth. If it hadn’t been marked on the map it would have just been more humps and bumps in the field.

It was all up and down which highlighted how different Co Durham is.

There was a final bit of overgrown path then into Shildon.

I had booked an Airbnb here and there was a bit of delay and toing and froing to get checked in. When I did get it I was surprised and pleased to discover I had the place to myself. I had heard from the vicar here and even though I had already booked accommodation I did get invited for a meal that evening. They insisted they pick me up and drop me off which was wonderful but weird too when I was walking every day.

I very much enjoyed the relaxed hospitality, conversation and meal. They were having a short ‘Zoom’ service that evening which I was pleased to be a part of. It was a wonderful way of ending the day.

Slow Ways Routes – Bisshi one, Wilbis one, Wilbra one, Bradur one – Shildon to Durham

Distance 24.3km / 15mi

Today was mostly along the Brandon to Bishop Auckland Railway Path so I was expecting an ‘easy’ day. I was looking forward to getting to Durham, it was my next milestone and from there on it was definitely the home stretch. It wasn’t the earliest of starts as I was waiting for a rain shower to pass over. Here I am posing in front of one of Shildon’s Arches

I walked out of town and was soon rewarded with a view towards Bishop Auckland.

It was a pleasant walk downhill through the village of South Church.

There was a couple of steep up and down bits and I was soon walking through Bishop Auckland.

I didn’t linger and walked straight on over the Newton Cap Viaduct. (No photos because of Vertigo). I joined the Brandon to Bishop Auckland Railway Path at the entrance to the Kynren Attraction. I powered on but did appreciate the scenery as I walked.

I stopped and chatted to a local walker who had lived all his life the the nearby village of Toronto. I got a potted life history and other local information. My stage finish was at the village of Willington. I called in to the local Co-op and got a drink and snacks.

Just a short break then I continued on. There were plenty of cyclists and dog walkers so it felt busy compared with most previous days. I met a dog walker on this section who chatted for a while. He put me to shame with all the adventures he’d been on.

My next way point was at Brandon. A short walk into the village brought me to a community hub where I had a quick sit.

I was a man on a mission so I continued on.

There was a bit of up and down as I got closer to Durham and left the Railway Path proper.

I cllimbed up the steep hill into Nevilles Cross passing the site of the 1346 battle. It was just downhill then into Durham. Being a completist I had to make one final climb to the Railway Station, the official end of this Slow Way.

I was smiling now, not just because I had finished today’s walk but that I was going home! I had decided that once I reached Durham it made more sense to sleep at home and just travel back and forth to the start of the next stage. I was soon on the bus and was so glad to be home. I got stuff into the washer, had a long hot shower and got my backpack ready for the next day.