Via di Francesco

Day 9 on the Via di Francesco

I woke up and looked out of the window. It looked about the same as when I had arrived the day before, misty and raining.

To compound it I read in one of the Psalms in Morning Prayer

You visit the earth and water it,
you make it very plenteous
The river of God is full of
water;

May the pastures of the wilderness flow with goodness 
and the hills be girded with joy.

I was expecting another wet day. But as it happened by the time I had a great breakfast the sun came out! God’s timing and I wasn’t complaining.

It was an emotional parting and I had a spring in my step as the trail was good and the sun was shining.

I walked on admiring the inevitable views and came to these trees with golden blossom. This is the real golden arches.

I love the idea of me walking this golden pilgrimage. I was overflowing with joy.

The path took me down to Camaldoli where there is a Benedictine Monstery despite them taking guests I was glad I had made the accomodation choice I did.

I was in the zone just walking happily and realised I was going the wrong way! Thankfully I didn’t have to backtrack too far but then was faced with a near verticle section of forest path. I am sure the photo doesn’t do it justice. I don’t think I have ever tackled anything like that before.

Then followed a painfully long and slow climb up the mountain. In these sections I am typically stopping every few steps to catch my breath. There were things to appreciate on the way up so it wasn’t ‘suffering’ all the way. I reckon this tree root looks like a wolf – it’s a Franciscan pilgrimage after all.

Every stop for breath gives an opportunity to look, listen, smell and appreciate the beauty of the forest.

The climb was about an hour and a half of steep climbing. Just before the top there was a handy refuge hut which was a natural resting place.

I began to muse as I do about how I normally walk on my own and how such a stop start climb would annoy a lot of people. I had met several pilgrims by now and we were all walking to the same destinations but at different speeds. Some had their luggage transfered between stops, some were taking taxis and buses. I thought too of Tony and Hannah God willing finally finishing the Camino Frances after I first met them whn I walked that Pilgrimage. I believe we do need to allow people to walk their own path and not expect everyone to be the same.

Today”s uphill was followed by if anything a longer downhill. After yesterdays’s rain the paths were very slippery and it was slow going watching every step on the loose rocks, tree roots, and mud, lots of mud!

Eventually I did arrive at my hotel in Badia Prataglia. I was welcomed, shown my room and then pretty much ignored. The host was friendly and helpful but the contrast with last night was very clear. Not that one is better than the other they are just different. I had a restaurant meal in the hotel which was really nice and a good breakfast the next morning. I am living the dream

Day 8 on the Via di Francesco

This was not a ‘Rest Day’ as I walked 12km but looking back this was one of the most wonderful experiences of my journey so far. It started out a bit flat to be honest with my morning prayer routine and what I thought was a careful pack-up. I looked out of the window and it was raining so for once maybe the weather forecast had got it right.

The rain stopped as I set off making the most of this break. I met another pilgrim who had been told there was to be 12mm of rain today which sounded ominous. It was then I realised I had left my walking poles in the apartment so back I went and did it all again

It’s always a struggle getting going in the morning when I first set off but it’s suprising when you look back, always a good idea when you need to catch your breath how quickly you gain height

I noticed a hand written sign for a cross with an arrow pointing down through some pasture. As I had plenty of time I thought I would investigate and I was pleasantly surprised to find a large wooden cross on the hillside with an awesome view over the town. It was worth the detour.

Then not long after I took this next picture it started raining.

There was no wind today and it felt like the rain concentrated the natural scents of the forest around me. I was still able to notice flowers and other details despite the rain.

I arrived at my destination, Rifugio Asqua about lunchtime. It was chaos a group of italian pilgrims had decided to stop there for lunch so the hosts were rushing around serving them. There was a roaring fire in the massive fireplace which was wonderful. I took the time while I waited for the luchtime crowd to disappear to write up my journal then explained who I was. It was a very relaxed place, pilgrims would just come in to get warm and then move on.

We overcame our language difficulties and I was shown my room. I went back downstairs and began updating this website. Everyone was very kind. I wasn’t made a fuss of as a paying guest it just felt like I was part of the family. I had some interesting conversations, some of which felt quite deep. It was made more informal by several dogs – mostly very big ones. I was even assured that one was part wolf.

I felt so relaxed, I was just included. Even when other’s came and went I didn’t feel like I wasn’t welcome. It was a very strange sensation – it’s seems to me that this is real hospitality, a sharing of lives. Its the difference between just being welcomed and being included. They cooked a delicious dinner for me.

It was a very special place. I felt like this was an opportunity to rest on my journey. Not just a physical rest but something deeper. This is why I am calling it my day of rest. I suspect that this post is one I will come back to in the future because this lovely family affected me so deeply.

Day 7 on the Via di Francesco

Today was a day spent almost entirely walking through forest. I was reminded of the idea of ‘Forest Bathing’; a definition being ” the practice of intentionally immersing oneself in a forest atmosphere using all five senses to reduce stress, improve mental health, and boost immunity. I am not sure about all of that but there is something special about waalking through natural forest.

Words from Zabaldika on the Camino de Santiago which came to me yesterday came into my mind again today.

The Camino calls you to contemplate, to be amazed, to welcome, to interiorize, to stop, to be quiet, to listen to, to admire, to bless .. nature, our companions on the journey, our own selves, God.

These first few days it’s less about the destination(s) but more about the journey.

The day quite start so perfect – waking up in a shared room with three womwn who were still asleep and realising I hadn’t prepared my backpack and not wanting to disturb them. I shoved everything in my baag and sorted it downstairs then set off to find somewhere to pray.

The place I found could have been better when I climbed out of the village I arrived at the pass where there was some seating and yet another view! I couldn’t help but praise God with that to look at.

Once again I consciously slowed down to hear the sounds, smell the scent of the forest and flowers. Several times I felt like I was walking a golden processional route with broom flowering.

There weren’t as many spectular views today as the forest was so dense, but it gave more of an opportunity to enjoy the detail. The sound of a cuckoo, the abundance of chestnut trees.

As I knew there was going to be several stream crossings I tried out my hiking sandals. It mean I could just wade through without worrying about getting my feet wet. I already hike in barefoot boots which give me a real connection with the earth I am walking on because of the thin soles but these sandals were a whole new level. My feet were washed in the stream, covered in mud from the trail, an even deeper connection with Mother Earth. I did change back later though.

At some point I was reminded of the hymn, How Great thou art.

When thru the woods
And forest glades I wander
And hear the birds
Sing sweetly in the trees,
When I look down
From lofty mountain grandeur
And hear the brook
And feel the gentle breeze,

Chorus
Then sings my soul,
My Savior God, to Thee;
How great Thou art,
How great Thou art!
Then sings my soul,
My Savior God, to Thee;
How great Thou art,
How great Thou art!

I will admit I was singing as I walked. In one day I felt I had experienced the whole lot!

As always the last few kilometers felt like a struggle.

I arrived at the destination, tired and in need of a rest. Once I had found my accommodation I enjoyed some peaceful soliray time to relax and restore. I had called at the local Coop and picked up some Tuscan Bean Soup to heat up in the microwave and because I felt like I needed to replenish my electrolytes ………..

Day 6 on the Via di Francesco

This is the day which had loomed large in my thoughts as I planned my journey and it loomed just as large as I woke up that morning, One of the take aways from my Morning Prayer routine was from the Psalm – “I called to you and you put new strength in my soul” It was interesting how that worked out. I reminded myself as I had done yesterday that all I had to do was to walk – the fact that today was nearly a thousand meters of ascent was just the way it was.

As I left the town I realised that I had missed the older more quaint bit but enjoyed it in passing.

As I left the town it was as steep as I had feared. I determined to take it slowly. I found time to take photos, enjoy the views , notice the wild flowers and even enjoy a whole hedge of rosemary. It helps of course that these activities meant I was catching my breath as I stopped.

I saw a couple walking ahead of me – they looked like pilgrims, I had noticed them as I was leaving Pontasieve. THankfully when I caught up one of them could speak English! We had a short conversation and then parted ways. It’s interesting that even a short conversation takes your mind off the steepness of the trail.

Then there was a section of olive groves and vineyards. They were busy spraying the vines which set me thinking about residues in wine, not too seriously I might add. The views kept coming too.

I came to the village of Diacetto and thought a coffee would be good. I had my espresso and was just topping up my water opposite the bar when the couple I had met earlier arrived. They sat at a table outside the bar so I went across and sat down to continue our conversation. It led to me trying to describe what my Franciscan Third Order vocation meant. When I think about it it’s difficult enough in English!

Half an hour later and I was off again and on looking at the road signs deciding I had chosen the right season to walk.

Unexpectedly the trail took me downhill. There were more views too, I am going to have to stop mentioning views, they are too numerous and awesome.

There was a beautiful stretch of woodland which was populated by some lovely wooden sculptures. The figure of Christ I found particularly engaging.

I found a handy bench and decided I would stop for a break and some snacks. Just as I had packed up another pilgrim passed by and we got to talking. He is a veteran of the Camino de Santiago and the Via di Francesco having walked them multiple times. He had a great affection for Saint Francis and we had a great conversation.

He went on ahead as we came to a particularly steep forest path section. I thought I was doing well as I struugled up these tracks which to me were almost vertical.

I decided to check my route only to discover I had wandered onto the wrong path. My phone has good maps so I decided to continue and just join the official trail a bit further up the hill. I stopped as the two trails joined and had some lunch. As I was sitting there I got to thinking about my illustration of repentance. I had worked out it was like when I’m walking , I stop, realize I am on the wrong path and set off back to where I should be. What came to me then how gracious God is to make the path back so beautiful, just as I had experienced on this journey.

I continued onwards and upwards and passed some men sitting around a fire. This set off some more musing about how this whole journey is living Saint Francis’ Canticle of the Creatures.

I am sure it’s my imagination but there always seems to be a particularly steep stretch just before the finish However I finally arrived at my destination of Consuma. I was too early for check-in so I stopped at the church to get my Credeziale stamped. I ended up stopping for quite a while just praying and refecting on my uphill journey.

I walked out the church to discover the hostel I was staying that was just next door. The host was veru hospitable and more and more pilgrims arrived. We ended up sharing a communal meal which was such a joy. The struggle of 1000mtr wa sforgotten amongst the joy of a shared pilgrimage journey.

All in all a day which was billed as difficult and gruelling was not half as bad as it was made out to be because of the wonderful things to see and especially the pilgrims who are comapnions on the way.

Day 5 on the Via di Francesco.

I was out of the hostel round about 6 o’clock. I think I just wanted to leave Florence. Nice as it was it wasn’t where I wanted to be, I wanted to be on the trail. I got as far as a bench between the hostel and the river and said Morning Prayer and my Community Obedience. This has become my settled routine. It keeps me focussed on the fact that this is a pilgrimage.

I was itching to start so it was an effort of discipline to do it properly before setting off. But set off I did though – I didn’t have too much to worry about as far as navigation goes, all I had to do was to keep the river on my right and I would be fine.

Much as I was in a hurry to leave Florence was certainly beautiful in the early morning light. It wasn’t in a hurry to let me go though as they were doing a lot of civil engineering works along the river bank which spoilt the effect somewhat.

It took some time before peace and quiet descended having passed several riverside parks. I eventually found my first Way Marker! Only 14.1km to my destination!

It meant I was under no time pressure today so could take it steadily. Just after that signpost I met a group of walkers coming towards me. After exchanging Buongiorno (my Italian stretches to that) they must have noticed my Tau Cross I’m wearing and shouted Assisi! I felt I had arrived somehow. No one had spoken to me in Florence but now I was on the trail it felt so different.

It came time to leave the river for a while and climb into the hills. I passed through a small village and practiced my italian in the local bar. I did end up with what I expected, in this case and esspresso and a croissant. I am loving the italian coffee. As I climbed past olive trees and vines and looked back over the countryside. Every incline and corner presented new vistas to enjoy.

In the midst of all this I had a conviction that I should treat each days walk on it’s own merits and not compare it with other days. I had been tempted to trat today just a preparation for the more difficult days to come. It might indeed be that but I don’t want to miss anything as I walk , I want to be present through the day.

I consciously slowed up and took my time. I passed a Coop store and popped in for some lunch, then sat on a bench beside the river. I rembered to take off my boots and aired my feet, which is somethimng I forget to do.

The final part of the days walk felt more demanding. It wasn’t the terrain, I think it was just the hot sun and my natural desire to have a nap around that time. I departed from the official route for a section but arrived in the town just before 2pm.

I contacted my host at the B&B I was staying at and checked in. It was nice to have my own room and bathroom. I did some hand washing, made a cup of tea and popped to a huge Coop store for something for tea and snacks and lunch for tomorrow. (Bit of a Coop theme developing).

I managed to update my website and then packed ready for the morning. It had been a great first day of walking.

Day 4 on the Via di Francesco

Today was a day to pause, prepare and relax. As I lay waking up I decided that all I ‘had’ to do that day was to go to the Basilica de Santa Croce, pray and get my credential stamped. The rest of the day was free.

It was interesting seeing the place where I was staying in the light of day. Last night by the time I arrived I just headed straight to bed. The others in my dormitory of four were already in bed so I didn’t want to put the light on. It was formerly a religous house, part of which has been repurposed for a secular hostel. There were some frescos still visible in places.

I set out about eight o’clock to have a wander around. I headed to the river to get my bearings and then set off to sightsee. There was a bit of light rain so wasn’t perefect but good nevertheless. It seems most tourists are not out and about so early so it was quite quiet. I checked out the Ponte Vecchio, walked past the Uffizi and eventually ended up at Santa Croce just as it was opening.

My experience praying here was quite mixed. I explained what I wanted and then went to a grumpy attendant who stamped my credential (upside down), and then radioed for another attendant who escorted me into the space reserved for prayer. There was very strict segregation, perhaps it was just me but they seemed very concerned I shouldn’t see anything I hadn’t paid for.

Thankfully I was able to focus and said Morning Prayer and my Community Obedience then spent time thinking about my pilgrimage. I did feel a bit overwhelmed by what I had taken on and really had to battle for some time to achieve some peace.

I decided to find a supermarket to find some food which I did and then sat in a small sqare in the sunshine having brunch and people watching which is always a favourite occupation.

I then set off to try and be a tourist, though by past experience I thought it unlikely I would be very succesful. It seems that when I am on pilgrimage I am so focussed I can’t concentrate on anything else. Florence is certainly beautiful with awesome architecture. I love the way buildings are decorated and built to show beauty though I suppose it was to demonstrate the power and prestige of the owners too.

By this time the tourists were out in force, so many lines following guides, the biggest queue ever for the Uffizi Gallery and crowds everywhere. I hadn’t booked to visit anywhere. I remember my experience on the Camino de Santiago trying to focus on art appreciation and failing. I did take a picture of one of the replica statues of David but in the end wandered further to escape the crowds.

I did muse about whether it mattered how much was authentic or restored this was when I was looking around the Ponte Vecchio. I also mused about the shops surrounding the centre especially the tourist bits. I find it difficult to see so much wealth, I am glad I am aspiring to a simple life. To be honest the highlight of this wander round Florence was the exquiste and decious gelato. No picture I was too busy enjoying it.

Then it was back to the hostel for a nap. After all this is the mediteranean and I was still really tired. Two hours later I woke up and was able to complete my journal do some Right to Roam admin and then type up my reflections for the previous two days.

To be honest I wasn’t intersted in heading out for the night life of Florence, it was raining and it was just not me. I had a reasonably early night. On balance a day in Florence was more than enough for me every time I looked up river I could see the hills and they were calling me.

One more sleep and then I would start walking.

Day 3 on the Via di Francesco

It wasn’t the best night’s sleep, the bed was comfortable butmy brain was far too active. In the end I was up by 04:30. My first train wasn’t until 05:52 so I had time for Morning Prayer and my Community Obedience. It reminded me of days on the Camino de Santiago when I payed and watched the dawn break.

I reminded myself of yesterdays thought about not being anxious about things and also the message from my Novice Guardian “Yes one step at a time dear Philip”.

It was then an overground train and an underground train before checking in for my Eurostar journey. It was ok so far this was familiar terriory things I had done before.

Today’s uncertainty began at the EU Check. The border police person who never spoke spent ages trying to read my passport on his machine, even checking in another booth beore silently beckoning me through. Will I have problems getting back I thought.

The day felt like a day of moving from the familiar to the unfamiliar. I was confused about where to get the Metro from Paris Gare du Nord to Paris Gare de Lyon. When I got there there didn’t seem enough time to find the next train though in hindsight there was plenty.

Then began a long but beautiful journey through the French Countryside. Flat landscapes changing to rolling hills and then to spectacular mountain views. I defintely felt I was now outside of my comfort zone of the familiar.

Sunshine and occasional showers changed as we exited the mountains into Italy. Everything seemed grey. I was struggling to stay awake but couldn’t sleep in case I missed my next connection. As night fell it was difficult to feel enthusiasm.

It was nighttime when I got to Florence and my brain had almost shut down. I managed to find my hostel and check in. I was happy with my bed and lay for a while before falling asleep.

In hindsight London to Florence in a day was a bit stressful especially with one of the journeys having a twenty-five minute delay. I think the stres was just about the tiredness though.

I had arrived and knew that the next day I had plenty of time to relax and prepare for my walk.

Day 2 on the Via di Francesco

The day began with final, final packing making sure I had everything I needed packed away in my trusty backpack. Of course there is always something like the realisation that I had left my glasses at church but that was ok – I have another pair.

I walked to the Newcastle Central Station and checked the departure board to find my first train had been cancelled. I checked and it was fine for me to get the one leaving four minutes earlier.

On to Darlington then and the bus replacement service I already knew about then the next train to London. From Kings Cross just a tube journey to Vauxhall and then another train.

I finally got to Christopher and Lucy’s and just enjoyed being amongst family. Jonathan came across for the evening which made it a great relaxing evening.

All in all today was a day of calm after the emotional storm of yesterday. The opening words of Common Worship resonated strongly.
The night has passed and the day lies open before us.

It was good to be finally on the move and despite unplanned events I calmed my mind by thinking that I only had one thing to do today which was to get to Christopher and Lucy’s. Worries about tomorrow were not necessary.

Day 1 of the Via di Francesco.

How do you begin a journey? When you have the initial idea, when you begin preparations, when you start travelling or perhaps when you actually start walking?

I chose to begin when I left ‘home’. For me that was our service this morning at my home church, St Alban’s, Windy Nook. It was great to be able to share something of how I was led to this journey and how spiritually significant it feels. It proved to be a very emotional morning. There was a real sense that home is not just the house I live in but the community I am part of.

The prayer of St Francis before the cross in the back of the Travelling Light Booklet sums up my hopes for this pilgrimage.

Most high, glorious God,
Enlighten the darkness of my heart
Give me true faith.
Give me certain hope.
Give me perfect Charity.
Give me Lord the sense and knowledge,
that I may carry out
Your holy and true command.

I hope it will feel like a holiday though, despite the physical challenge of over twelve thousand two hundred metres of ascent over the eighteen days of walking. That’s an awful lot of up and down.