Via di Francesco

Day 18 on the Via di Francesco.

Feeling rested and refreshed not just by sleep but by the atmosphere of the place I set off again. I was thinking today again of the open handed generosity of God in creation. So much of current life seems to be about efficiency, productivity, profitability and return on investment. God’s creation seems to have no limit, it just keeps on giving

As yesterday, It wasn’t all about the ups and downs, it was about the wild flowers, and the scent of a forest. It was too about the creepers climbing trees.

I took multiple opportunities to rest knowing I had loads of time. I was enjoying seing fields of beans which still seem odd to me since I just associate them with vegetable plots.

I was musing about the generosity of God and comparing it to the open handed generosity at the hostel I had stayed in last night. It also came to me that this is what the Franciscan principle of living simply might be too. Rather than seek to possess and accumulate this sense of trusting God and sharing seems very attractive. I know there are always going to be a lot of questions about the practicalities but I’ll leave that until I get back.

My destination came in sight and as so often I had to go down a steep hill and up another one to get there.

Today I had booked an appartment through booking.com so after a leisurely sit in the piazza I check-in and it was good to have my own space for tonight. I had a really early night tonight because I wanted to be rested and ready for a really early start. I had decided to walk 26km rather than get the bus, not because there was anything wrong with getting the bus but I didn’t need to anymore.

Day 17 on the Via di Francesco

Sometimes odd prayers pop into my mind. One such is from Common Worship, can’t remember which Psalm it belongs to.

Lord God, just and true,
you make your salvation known in the sight of the nations;
tune the song of our hearts to the music of creation
as you come among us to judge the earth;
through our Saviour Jesus Christ

I woke up as the first first person in the room started getting ready to go, 5am it was but then was walking further than me. I decided it wasn’t worth trying to get back to sleep so I got up too. This morning I had no energy and felt tired from the get go. I got packed up, found a quiet piazza said my Morning Devotions and I started walking about 6.30am. It was a sunny day but for once I was glad it was an uphill start because it was quite cold.

There’s quite often encouragement along the way like this sign someone had put up.

That prayer I mentioned poped into my head and in the quiet of a sunny morning I resolved to tune the song of my heart to the music of creation. I wanted to be present as I walked taking in the wild flowers along the way, the song of the birds, the crops and vegetable gardens I was passing. Up and down hills, through rich farmland, full of olive groves and vineyards. On many days of this journey I feel like I am walking on a golden pathway.

I was just enjoying the beauty of creation. Often on the uphills while I was catching my breath I would listen for the birds and smell the fragrance of the flowers. There were often views around every corner so much so that I don’t take half as many landscapes as I did at the beginning. It’s all so overwhelmingly beautiful.

The agriculture gave way to forest again oak and pine predominating. This I discovered is truffle country. The trail was getting steeper and I was getting more and more exhausted. Thankfully there was along section of track along the ridge line which helped.

Focussing on the details as I was walking did help though. The hotter it got towards the middle of the day the stronger the scent of the broom bushes and the pine trees got. I was longing to finally arrive at my destination and even the inevitable view didn’t seem to bring it any closer.

By this time I was feeling more and more tired and even began wondering if I should get a bus on Thursday which was my longest stage of 26km

Thankfully my destination came into sight.

The hostel and church of Pieve di Saddi has something of a reputation on this pilgrim route. They offer any pilgrim hospitality and food on a donation basis. I arrived and it felt a bit difficult at first because of my lamentable lack of Italian. But I could take off my backpack and my boots and have cool drink from the chiller cabinet. I was too early to check-in but made the most of my time to write in my journal and update my website.

While I was sitting there there were so many pilgrims passing through who would be offered food, and drink including the excellent Italian coffee. It was all given freely and there was encouragement but no obligation to give money in return.

Another host arrived and welcomed me. Then while I was sittting there I could here beautiful organ music in the attached church.

Somehow this connected me back to my prayer, beautiful strains of J.S.Bach somehow also the music of creation.

I got my bed allocated and was just reading quietly when I was called to the communal meal. Everyone was so kind to me. Someone even translated bits of the converation so I could just about follow along. I was able to share that I was a Novice in the Third Order of the Society of St Francis. People are unaware that Anglicans can be Franciscans too even if not many understand what the Thirds Order is at all.

All in all while at the start of the afternoon I had felt an outsider by the end of the evening I was well and truly included. The spirit of love and generosity of this place had caputured me.

I also felt so rested after a quiet afternoon and a convivial evening. I also knew I only had a short walk the next day.

Day 16 on the Via di Francesco

The goal for today was not just to get to my destination but to get some new walking poles. My route should have been nearly 20km today, up a d down several mountains and into beautiful valleys. I did the first few ups and downs which as always awesomely beautiful.

There was less forest today, the scenery was changing to a more agricultural landscape.

It was beautiful but I was feeling unsettled without my poles. There were a few tricky descents.

I arrived at the village of Lerchi where I made the decision to take a shortcut along the road, to make sure I was in good time to find the shop where I hoped I could buy some poles. It did cut a bit off my route and I entered the city at 11.00am. It was nice to cross the River Tiber as I arrived.

I went straight to the shop and got my poles. What a sense of relief. I have got so used to walking with them. It did mean I had a good couple of hours to look around. The place was a maze of medieval buildings which looked amazing. Weirdly I didn’t take any photos.

I was able to check-in at 3.00pm to a wonderful Franciscan house called the Rose of Jericho. I met pilgrims there who I had met before and at least was able to speak in English.

We had a great communal meal inthe evening which meant I could socialise!

Feeling stuffed I eventually fell asleep. Order had been restored.

Day 15 on the Via di San Francesco

I had done some research the night before so I had worked out I could get breakfast and just across the road I could pick up snacks etc at a supermarket. It involved leaving the city on an old route which had now been superceded. Guess where I had breakfast?

It was a glorious sunny day and it was so nice to feel the sun’s warmth. The route was very flat until the final hill.

What a novelty it was to not be climbing up and down mountains in warm sunshine.

I stopped in a village to change into my sandals and take off my fleece when I was hailed by a man from across the road. When I went across I discovered this was the diorama of Christ’s last three years IIhad read about. He invited me in and set the commentary to run in English. It was very impressive. He offered coffee, water and cherries. It was a lovely stop on the journey.

I continued on. Today was just a short walk. Even though it was mostly on roads I missed my poles and resolved to get some new ones in Citta di Castello which was tomorrow’s destination.

I had arranged to stay in the guest accommodation of a Benedictine Convent. I was the first to arrive. It was lovely, very peaceful with everything I needed.

I had a look round the village/city which was definitely geared up to welcome pilgrims.

There were also views back where I had been walking for the past few days.

I attended Vespers even though I didn’t understand very much. It was beautiful and very moving sharing this with the Nuns and a few others.

Other than that I had a quiet night.

Day 13 on the Via di Francesco

I started.today feeling much more positive. I had packed the night before and after a quick breakfast I was off. I walked down into town and it started raining. So I stopped put my wet weather gear on and after a while the rain stopped.

My first decision of the day was to visit the Hermitage of Cerebaiolo but taking the road option rather than a mountain trail I had originally thought of. It was still the normal uphill walk though with occasional views.

When I got to the hermitage it was shut but what I loved were the boards with quotations from the Canticle of the Creatures by Saint Francis.

Be praised, my Lord, for brother wind and by air and clouds, clear skies and all weathers, by which you give sustenance to your creatures.

The next decision was to take a waymarked trail which wasn’t on my phone app direct from the hermitage rather than backtracking to the official trail. This was a good decision even though I was going into the clouds and the rain was getting heavier.

I stopped at a very nice bar/cafe at the pass and had a coffee and croissant as a reward for my climb. I checked my guidebook and there was an option for a detour when the weather was wet. That seemed a sensible thing.

So when I set off what did I do? I saw a sign for the official route, changed my mind and chose that one. It proved to be fateful. It was very muddy, very, very muddy and slippery. There were occasional views among the rain showers and mist.

I reached the highest point and then began my descent. Then it happened, despite my wonderful grippy boots and my poles. I slipped and I like to think gracefully went over on my back. I ended up covered in mud with a broken pole which I must have landed on.

The rest of the descent was a bit miserable and once I was on a easier trail to my destination the rain became much heavier. On the plus side the rain began to was some of the mud off.

My destination at Refugio Pian della Capanna was a welcome sight. I was able to shower, change and start getting warmed. They lit a lovely log fire which always gladdens my heart and made a cup of tea. I regretted my decision to take the wrong option but I was warm and the host even temporarily fixed my broken pole.

I had a lovely dinner with the host and two hikers who were staying that night. Highlight was the Cantucci , biscuits dipped in sweet wine. Life is good even if it was still raining.

Day 12 on the Via di Francesco

The.day started at something past 4am with the certainty of the overwhelming grace of God in his completed work of atonement in the Ascension and His continual work of intercession.

I must have drifted off at some point as next time I was semi-conscious it was 5.30ish. I could see dawn was breaking so I got dressed in my warmest clothes and went outside. The views were spectacular but different to yesterday. The sky was highlighted in pink and clouds were in the valleys an obscuring the mountain tops.

I said my Morning Prayer and Community Obedience there on the mountain top of Saint Francis. It was mind blowing. It was extra special as I was praying for the Durham Area that day.

I set off at 8.30 after breakfast with the Austrian pilgrim who told me he had thought of the Third Order but the rules were too strict. I think I’m glad I ended up in the Society of Saint Francis!

Brother Wind was playing and I am sure I could hear the trees creaking as I climbed the next hill. Thinking about playing I reckon Mother Earth and Sister Water had a great time creating the mud which seemed to be a daily feature.

It seems like you can’t go downhill without first going uphill. Eventually though it was all downhill. As always I was trying to concentrate on the details as I walked luke this field of gold.

Or these flowers including the first roses of my pilgrimage.

I was getting weary though. A disturbed night and something of a comedown from the emotional heights meant I was getting desperate for my destination. I had booked at a B&B which involved a 15 minute climb at the end.

After showering instead of a much needed nap I dragged myself down into town to a launderette. The joys of pilgrimage. It wasn’t the greatest of meals that evening. It was rather a flat end to a wonderful day.

Day 11 (Afternoon & Evening) on the Via di Francesco

I always felt that spending time at the Sanctuary of La Verna was going to be a pivotal moment in my journey. I am sure I have not yet worked it out but it was significant.

My first task was to check-in which proved quite challenging as I wandered around not really knowing where anything was and realising it was a bigger complex than I had realised. I finally found the check-in desk then had another wander until I finally found my dormitory. I was now in possession of a “Spiritual Itinerary of the Pilgrim” a handy ENglish Langauage Guide. My wandering became more purposeful.

The open space at the front had magnificent views enough to inspire anyone to praise the glories of creation.

I had a quick loook round but the place was very busy with pilgrims and tourists. I had felt a connection with Saint Francis as I walked through the forests and mountains but as yet I had yet to feel a connection here.

I did find the votive chapel and as I have done a couple of times on the journey I lit a candle for all those I am praying for. I started out with a small one but then decided a 3 euro large one might be more appropriate. You’re worth it!

I was in time for the daily procession to the Chapel of the Stigmata by the friars. I joined the service in the main church but with my lack of Italian I could only sit and listen. The friars were sitting in what we would call the choir behind the altar screen. It seemed to me that there was a barrier somehow. The procession started and went along the covered corridor to the chapel where there were some more prayers and readings . In the end I felt alienated rather than included. It did unsettle me.

I think it took gazining at a habit worn by Francis in conjunction with a visit to the grotto with the bed of Saint Francis to break through.

I became aware of my Franciscan vocation and it wasn’t a questioning of it more a sudden realisation of what I had to live up to. I had begun to feel a connection with Francis in some way.

I found my way to the Sasso Spico or Jutting out Stone where FRancis prayed it gives context to the stories I read about him that he loved these clefts of the rock to pray and get close to God. It put me in mind of that old hymn I was encouraged by a few weeks ago.

He’s hiding my soul in the cleft of the rock
That shadows a dry, thirsty land;
He’s hiding my life in the depths of his love
And cov’ring me there with his hand,
And cov’ring me there with his hand.

After more wandering and chatting to a few pilgrims it was time for my dinner. We were allocated tables according to some plan – I am not sure what. I was sat with a german coule who I had met crossing the river at the beginning of the day but their english was just a bit better than my German so it was not easy.

After dinner I met up with the Austrian pilgrim I had met a few days ago and he shared again his love of Saint Francis. I then bumped into an English couple who had just finished walking a different pilgrim route. WE had a great chat and I discovered I wasn’t the only one singing “How great Thou art” while walking. I was the last one back to the dormitory but despite yawning my way through the evening I couldn’t get to sleep.

Day 11 (Morning) on the Via di Francesco

One of the American ladies was getting a lift to La Verna so over breakfast I arranged to walk with Mary. Without giving too much away we are of a similar age. Walking on my own is my default mode but this seemed a great opportunity to share with another pilgrim.

We set off and discovered we walk at a similar pace. It was lovely to share our stories and our experience of walking. After a gentle descent from our accommodation we walked though a little village and discovered the first obstacle of the day. A small river had swollen with recent rain so it was off with the shoes and roll up trousers to wade across.

Then it was the first of our steep climbs through the forest. There is something very different sharing a climb like this. One leads and encouges the other then you swap over. It is still difficult and challenging yet somehow if feels easier.

As always there is beauty to share too. Once on to the mountain ridge walking got a bit easier. We couldn’t walk side by side often but we often paused and caught up with each other.

We crossed a road and we entered a completely different kind of forest. This is the Foreste Sacra which is for us the approach to the Santuario de La Verna. It was a sudden transformation into an almost mystical landscape of ancient trees and moss covered rocks.

This is the kind of landscape of caves and clefts in the rock which Francis would seek out to pray.

There were occasional views before going back into the trees.

Eventually I looked up and saw the walls of the sanctuary above us.

There was still quite a climb to get there but finally we arrived at the lower gate.

Once we arrived we went our separate ways. This was companionship for a short time. It was precious but it was for a moment. It made a morning walk that much sweeter.

Day 10 on the Via di Francesco

It may have been a short walk but it started with a steep climb. Maybe walking uphill matches my mood. I had received an email last night to tell me my train from Assisi on the way back was not running so I will need to get a bus replacement at some unearthly hour in the morning. That together with me beginning to think about how I would feel about getting to La Verna made me all the more determined to be present as I walked. I can’t do anything about the future so I just have to make the most of each mpment on the trail.

Catching your breath going uphill is always a good time to look back.

In the spirit of noticing things I came across this Pilgrim’s Fountain – I didn’t need a drink but it was good to know that people still look after pilgrims.

Each piece of forest I walk through seems to have a different character with different species of trees and undergrowth. It’s means that days and days of forest is not boring in the slightest.

Today I was musing about route finding and finding my way through life’s journey. Because the forest is so dense I often have no external points of reference so rely on the stripes on trees. Red and white ones mainly denoting I am on a recognised trail.

Looking at my phone will tell me almost exactly where I am and there will be a route description but it doesn’t always help when you are faced with indistinct paths through the forest, I did come across this one which I am calling the Way of the Cross. I’m not sure the cross added anything to route finding in this case.

My destination for today was on a spur from the main route and once I had decided at a crossroads which direction I was going in I had to trust I had had made the right decision for a while before I came across a signpost. I can spend quite a lot of time second guessing myself.

However my place to stay eventually appeared through the trees and I was welcomed by a lovely playful dog.

In the end I was one of only three pilgrims staying here. It was a joy to share an evening meal together, Thankfully the other guests were both American so on this occasion language wasn’t a problem. It was a joy to share stories of how we came to be on this pilgrimage.