Camino de Santiago

Saturday 22nd April 2023

Distance 12.7km (7.9 ml). Total Elevation 360m (1181 ft)

Zubiri – Zabaldika

People in the dormitory began moving around by 5.30. I quickly got dressed and found a quiet spot in the lounge downstairs to say Morning Prayer. The day dawned with rain, cloud and mist such a contrast with yesterday. I was not under time pressure today as I had booked breakfast at the Albergue and had decided to have a shorter walk today to the parochial albergue of the 12th century church of St Esteban at Zabaldika, a distance of just 12.7km. I had read about this place in the guide book as a great place to visit.

Today was the first day of my pilgrimage without booking any accommodation for that evening. I did feel some anxiety about this even though I kept telling myself to trust in God. The hostel I wanted to stay at did not take bookings so I didn’t have any choice. I was still suffering somewhat from the mass panic which began when I got to Roncesvalles on the first day. So many people had not booked and when bed space ran out there they were suddenly trying to book somewhere to stay each night of their journey. One pilgrim was so anxious he was considering going home if he couldn’t book anywhere ahead. Today was my chance to trust that the Camino would provide as the saying goes.

As I crossed back over the bridge to rejoin the trail the contrast in weather could not be greater, yesterday hot sun, today heavy rain. It was no more than what I expected starting my walk in April and gave me an opportunity to see how effective my waterproofs were.

Also in contrast to yesterday’s rural countryside the first landmark today is the Magna industrial plant. I am used to walking past industry around my home so I am happy to embrace this as part of the richness of the landscape.

There was no let up in the rain and I walked on, (almost a song there!). Whilst I was walking on my own there were never many times when I was not in sight of pilgrims ahead and behind me, so it wasn’t really a solitary walk. I chatted to a man from Sydney, Australia for a while who was so proud as an immigrant to be serving as a Justice of the Peace. I came across a group of Italians I had met last Wednesday too.

A lot of the paths beside the river were steep up and down and quite treacherous with mud and slippery stones. It definitely wasn’t a day for a picnic lunch.

I arrived at my destination for the day really early, about 11.00am. I was a little wet but the climb up to the hillside church wasn’t too bad. I still didn’t know how things worked with these places which didn’t take any bookings, my anxiety was still there.

As it happened I needn’t have worried which seems to be the case so often. The church and Albergue are looked after by Sisters of the Sacred Heart. The church door was open and the Sister who was welcoming pilgrims beckoned me in out of the rain. I left my backpack at the door and explained that I was very early but wanted to stay that night. Sister Maria Assumpta, as that was here name explained that the Albergue did not open until 2pm but I was welcome to bring my pack in and take off my waterproofs and make myself at home in the church. She even offered me the use of a space upstairs where there were blankets if I wanted to get warm, or even lie down.

I took the opportunity to look around using the handy guide provided in English. The Retablo at the east end of the church was interesting and included a statute of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Sister Maria told me about her veneration of the Blessed Virgin and how she viewed the Assumption.

I took the opportunity to pray, catch up with my journal and in a break in the rain to sit on a stone bench in the church porch and have my picnic lunch. As I was sitting there I got chatting with a young lady who was from The United States. It turned out she was Episcopalian and gay so we kind of bonded at that point. It was great to share our journeys of faith with each other. The sun eventually came out and I was able to appreciate the views from the church across the valley.

Throughout this time there was a steady trickle of pilgrims passing by and visiting the church but despite this there was an overwhelming sense of peace and love.

I checked in to the Albergue when it opened and had a pick of beds. The church may have been built in the 12th century but the Albergue was very 21st century having been recently upgraded. Throughout the afternoon the Albergue filled up, but I realised that there was never any realistic prospect of me not getting a bed as long as I got there in a reasonable time.

Sister Maria explained that there was a parish Mass that evening and that I was welcome to take the bread even though I wasn’t a catholic. They translated parts of the service into English for the benefit of the pilgrims who were there and I felt much more a part of it especially sharing the bread.

There was a communal meal that evening which was a simple but delicious meal of salad, lentil and chorizo stew/soup and a fruit salad all with the ubiquitous wine and bread. All this and the night’s accommodation was all provided on a donation basis.

After the meal there was a special pilgrim’s service in the church. Out of the 16 or so staying that night there were only 4 pilgrims there together with the three Sisters, but somehow that made it all the more special. Each pilgrim shared something of why they were on the pilgrimage and then we received a blessing. I must admit to being close to tears. I said to people if I had to end my Camino now I would be happy.

Check out my post Wisdom from Zabaldika for some words of wisdom from the Sisters of The Sacred Heart.