Camino de Santiago

Friday 21st April 2023

Distance 21.9km (13.6 ml). Total Ascent 250m (820 ft)

Roncesvalles – Zubiri

The guidebook gives the impression that in contrast to yesterday today was downhill all the way. I didn’t feel quite like that though, but that’s getting ahead of myself.

As would be the case most days on my pilgrimage I woke sometime after 5.00am when I could hear the early risers getting packed up ready to start walking in the dark. I was not that keen. My walking days start when it is light enough to see what I am walking through.

The Albergue at Roncevalles starts their day at 6.00am when the lights go on and they play Gregorian chant. I was up and doing my ablutions just before then to beat the rush. I must admit is a lovely start to a pilgrim’s day and certainly emphasises that this isn’t a normal holiday. Not long after that one of the volunteer hospitaleros (hosts) came around singing.

I was soon packed up and made my way to the courtyard. I picked up my remaining walking pole which I had managed to mislay and chatted to one of the hospitaleras (female host) which was a real boost to my mood. A reasonable if somewhat disturbed night’s sleep and some encouragement were enough to set me up for the day. It was a massive contrast to how I felt as I arrived yesterday.

I had plenty of time before it was light enough to walk so I found a quiet bench in the courtyard to say Morning Prayer. It was quite wonderful seeing the sky lightening with the knowledge that pilgrims have stayed here for over 1000 years.

As I made my way out of the monastery complex I was please to find that the 12th century chapel of Saint James was open so popped in for a quick prayer.

The sky was brightening and I was keen to get going. By this time there was a constant stream of pilgrims walking. We were soon into woodland which was just lovely in the still morning air and the occasional glimpse of the sun rising over the hills. Coming out of the wood at the village of Burguete I stopped for breakfast at the first place I came to. I tried out the tortilla – a ‘cake’ of egg, potato and onions served with a chunk of fresh crusty bread. I had coffee with milk. I had not been sat down long when the Irishman I had met two days ago over breakfast in Saint Jean Pied de Port joined me and we caught up with our experiences to date.

I left him at the shop and continued on through pastures and woodland of a lovely (and flat) valley.

I stopped in the next village of Espinal and tried out my very basic Spanish in the village shop. I was quite proud of myself as I managed to get a fresh baguette, some cheese, ham and an apple without too much embarrassment. I sat on a wall in the sunshine and had something to eat as I watched pilgrims passing me. I had tonight’s accommodation booked so didn’t feel under pressure at all.

I set off again but this was where the up and down started again. Not at all in yesterday’s league but it was still a challenge and was stopping quite often on the way up the hills. It was beautiful countryside though. We went over the Alto de Mezquiritz (955metres) then down through the next village and up the other side to the Alto de Erro (855metres).

As we climbed up this final hill it became much hotter but thankfully there was more woodland for shade.

We entered an area of pine forest and on a hot day like today the smell of the pine was beautiful such a contrast to the pig farm I had passed earlier. It wasn’t just the views that were overwhelming my senses. Today was a day where I was very consciously dividing my attention between the big views and the more immediate things like the wild flowers and the smells.

There was a welcome refreshment truck near the final summit and I treated myself to a beer. By this time the sun was so strong and hot so I knew I needed to replenish my electrolytes. The final stretch was a fairly steep downhill path which was quite treacherous underfoot. I was glad I had my boots and that it wasn’t raining. I took it slowly and carefully and arrived at the bridge into the town.

Tonight’s Albergue was a privately owned one, EL Palo Avellano. It was very well appointed. A lower bunk bed as last night. But the showers were hot and I was able to catch up with my washing. I had booked my evening meal and breakfast tomorrow so in the end never got round to looking around the village.

As I was waiting in the lounge for the evening meal I got chatting to Des (the Irishman from this morning and the day before), together with a Belgian man. The talk this evening was of politics and Brexit. It was certainly stimulating. I also met a lad who had damaged his knee coming down the same path I had used to Roncesvalles. There but for the grace of God, at least all I broke was a walking pole rather than my knee. We had a great pilgrim’s dinner 3 courses with wine and bread. It was great to be with people from so many different countries. I met some British women who I wouldn’t meet again until the last week of my journey.

It looked like the fine weather wasn’t going to last. There were rumbles of thunder then the rain came that evening. Thankfully my washing had dried. I checked the weather forecast and it wasn’t looking good for tomorrow. I fell asleep that night with the sound of the rain falling.