Hadrian’s Wall

The plan in my head was to walk for 4 days and camp for 3 nights along Hadrian’s Wall Trail but as I sat having breakfast on the morning of Tuesday 12th July 2022 I was still procrastinating. Maybe I should put this off until next week, after all I wasn’t ready. I had been thinking about camping for many months and had been collecting bits of gear and watching too many YouTube videos but there were so may things to prepare. I was also very conscious that I needed to test me and my kit before I embarked on my pilgrimage from Melrose to Lindisfarne in just under a month’s time.

I checked the weather forecast, saw the warnings about the heatwave and decided today was the day. A flurry of activity followed, including a trip to the shops for last minute food and snacks. I had worked out that to get to my first campsite I would need to get the bus from Newcastle to Heddon-on-the-Wall about 1.15pm so I didn’t have time for much else beyond gathering everything and shoving it into my backpack as fast as possible. I couldn’t fit it all in so I ended up tying the tent on to the top of my bag which wasn’t ideal. So despite my lack of preparation off I went with what felt like a ton weight on my back. I had not been backpacking/camping for years and even though I am used to walking it’s just with a light day pack. Sitting on the bus in the midst of the excitement and anticipation I thought to myself – what on earth am I doing? I’m a 67 year old man who has not led a life of fitness and exercise with some crazy ideas.

I stepped off the bus opposite the Three Tuns, settled my pack on my back and set off, no time to stop. This first section was beside a stretch of road which I had driven along many times. I was soon to discover with the aid of my trusty guide book that I had missed so much. This is a recurrent theme as I have been walking more, is this sense of discovery. I’ve missed so much over the years by not having or taking the time to look.

Today’s walk could have been entitled Hadrian’s Ditch Trail since the curtain wall itself on this section was long gone. The photos don’t give the ditch justice but 1900 years of wear and tear do make a difference. You can see it in the photo above. Over the next 3 days I did come to appreciate the scale of the infrastructure which the Romans constructed. A massive defensive ditch in front of the wall, a ‘berm’, a curtain wall, a road (not to be confused with the one you can see) then another ditch system, the Vallum.

The first walkers I see are three ladies walking in the opposite direction to me. I wasn’t able to provide a personal recommendation for the Three Tuns pub but pointed them in the right direction as they wished me well. It was good to feel part of a ‘community’ even though I was walking alone.

So many accounts I had read complained about the trail sticking to the Military Road (B6318). My recent walking has been typically around and through the Tyneside Conurbation so I have become used to walking with background traffic noise. I soon left the road itself though and followed the waymarked trails through the fields, albeit beside the road.

It was a pleasant walk, I wasn’t yet feeling the full effects of the backpack. I was however grateful that there weren’t any people around to see me climbing over various stiles. I often felt top heavy and was very conscious of not wanting to do my back in so graceful I was not. It wasn’t long before I came to today’s Fort at Rudchester. There were lots of really interesting lumps and bumps and an information board.

So it was then onward and upward then downward but mostly upward albeit on fairly gentle slopes. The views were great looking over the Tyne Valley, take my word for it my photos didn’t capture the beauty. I then came to the first example of where a landowner had not given permission for the Trail to go through their property and therefore there was a diversion. It was ok I suppose but I did start reminding myself about the principles of a right to roam!

I was now getting a bit weary – I had been walking for nearly two hours I think and I was conscious my destination was not too far ahead. I had by this time following the trail crossed the Military Road and was now walking in the ditch so views were somewhat diminished. I passed a couple of reservoirs and continued now on the north side of the ditch. I was thankful for my walking poles as they give me that extra push to get up the next hill.

So when I got to today’s goal I was happy to stop. I was camping in the field behind the Robin Hood Inn at East Wallhouses. They offer a ‘Wild Camping’ experience, ie a field, a water tap and use of the pub toilets. This was my first night in a tent for a long time and I was a little bit anxious . I had only out the tent up once on my friends lawn and when I got to the field there were three others just finishing putting their tents up, the last thing I wanted was an audience! Anyway I managed without embarrassment and then was ready for the next part of my wild camping experience – a pub meal and a couple of pints of Roman themed ale. For those more into ale than me, (I’m a lightweight), it was Gallia from the Twice Brewed Inn.

I returned from my meal – did some reading then eventually went to sleep. The end of a really good day.