Camino de Santiago

Monday 24th April 2023

Distance 23.8km (14.8 ml). Total Elevation 470m (1542 ft)

Pamplona – Puente La Reina

I finally got up at 6am. It seemed a thing that people start getting up anytime after 5am, some of whom start walking in the dark. Apparently the man in the bunk underneath me got up at 4.30am for a shower to beat the rush! I set off through the deserted streets of the city with a totally transformed mood. I was feeling positive and enthusiastic. I got as far as the park I had noticed yesterday and sat on a bench in the half light to say Morning Prayer. The sky began to brighten and then it was time for me to set off in earnest .. as far as a Panaderia (Bakery) for a coffee and a lovely ham and cheese croissant.

It was great to have two poles again and the going was easy to start with, leading out through parkland towards the first incline of the day. I walked beside the road for a while to the village of Cizur Minor.

Once over the brow of the village the first goal of the day came into view., the long climb up and over the Alto del Perdon with it’s wind turbines. It was a beautiful morning, such a pleasure to walk though the lush fields.

As I passed beside fields of young wheat I began thinking of and then singing an Easter Carol I had been reminded of when I was in Zabaldika. I did check to make sure no other pilgrims were in earshot though, I didn’t want to be thought of as too odd.

Now the green blade rises from the buried grain
Wheat that in the dark earth many days has lain;
Love lives again, that with the dead has been;
Love is come again like wheat that springeth green.

In the grave they laid Him, love who men had slain,
Thinking that never He would wake again,
Laid in the earth like grain that sleeps unseen;
Love is come again like wheat that springeth green.

Forth He came at Easter, like the risen grain,
He that for three days with the dead had lain;
Quick from the dead, my risen Lord is seen,
Love is come again like wheat that springeth green.

When our hearts are wintry, grieving, or in pain,
Thy touch can call us back to life again,
Fields of our hearts that dead and bare have been;
Love is come again like wheat that springeth green.

This is the version I remember from an album I had back in 1972.

Taking a photo of the view behind was always a good excuse for a rest as the way got steeper. A Canadian woman caught up to me and we walked and chatted together for a while but she was a faster walker than me so we parted company. There were many of these types of encounters on the way.

The little village of Zariquiegui came into view, and no I don’t know how to pronounce it! This was a good opportunity to get a drink and a snack and take a moment in the village church to pause and pray. It was onward and upward though.

Once at the top you see the iconic metal artwork representing pilgrims through the ages. It was put up by the power company when they built the wind turbines. There is an inscription on one of the figures,

Where the way of the wind crosses the way of the stars

Poetry as public relations? They seem to have a different relationship with onshore wind turbines than we do in this country. Reaching the summit was a good time for a break, as it was mainly downhill from here to my destination for the day of Puente la Reina. It wasn’t a long break though as in the back of my mind I knew that I hadn’t booked my accommodation for that night and there was always this itch to keep walking and make sure I had a bed. I kept telling myself that God would provide but my brain wasn’t listening. The views were spectacular.

As I left to start the descent I wanted to take a moment to visit a memorial to the locals who were killed during the Spanish Civil War. In the midst of medieval history it was good to think about more recent tragedies. A central stone is surrounded by smaller stones for each of the local villages. I paused for some moments of reflection. I asked myself if there was a reason they raised it here on the ‘Alto del Perdon’, the Mount of Forgiveness.

I was soon back to concentrating on the descent, which was steep and difficult with lots of loose stones and pebbles. I was relying on my poles.

I was glad when I was back on more level and gentle farm tracks again. As I walked I really loved the wild flowers beside the path.

As I passed through the villages of Uterga and Muruzabal I had to decide whether I would take a detour and visit the beautiful 12th Century church of Santa Maria de Eunate. It had been on my list of places I wanted to visit but in the end my destination was pulling me on and I didn’t want to detour to what might be just a tourist trap.

Eventually after plenty of more minor ups and downs and passing by a whole load of allotments I arrived at the Albergue Padres Reparadores. As would happen again and again, I needn’t have been anxious, I could have taken my time and still had a bed for the night.

The first order of business after checking in, was to shower and do my laundry. The beds were noisy but in cubicles of four in a smaller room which was a change from last night. As I was seen as old I got a bottom bunk and didn’t feel at all guilty when two French ladies turned up later and were allocated top bunks.

I had a wander round town and visited two churches which were quite sublime.

After returning to the Albergue for a rest, I ventured out again once the supermarket was open to get some supplies for my evening meal. After that I read for a while and had an early night.