Backpacking

The plan in my head was to walk for 4 days and camp for 3 nights along Hadrian’s Wall Trail but as I sat having breakfast on the morning of Tuesday 12th July 2022 I was still procrastinating. Maybe I should put this off until next week, after all I wasn’t ready. I had been thinking about camping for many months and had been collecting bits of gear and watching too many YouTube videos but there were so may things to prepare. I was also very conscious that I needed to test me and my kit before I embarked on my pilgrimage from Melrose to Lindisfarne in just under a month’s time.

I checked the weather forecast, saw the warnings about the heatwave and decided today was the day. A flurry of activity followed, including a trip to the shops for last minute food and snacks. I had worked out that to get to my first campsite I would need to get the bus from Newcastle to Heddon-on-the-Wall about 1.15pm so I didn’t have time for much else beyond gathering everything and shoving it into my backpack as fast as possible. I couldn’t fit it all in so I ended up tying the tent on to the top of my bag which wasn’t ideal. So despite my lack of preparation off I went with what felt like a ton weight on my back. I had not been backpacking/camping for years and even though I am used to walking it’s just with a light day pack. Sitting on the bus in the midst of the excitement and anticipation I thought to myself – what on earth am I doing? I’m a 67 year old man who has not led a life of fitness and exercise with some crazy ideas.

I stepped off the bus opposite the Three Tuns, settled my pack on my back and set off, no time to stop. This first section was beside a stretch of road which I had driven along many times. I was soon to discover with the aid of my trusty guide book that I had missed so much. This is a recurrent theme as I have been walking more, is this sense of discovery. I’ve missed so much over the years by not having or taking the time to look.

Today’s walk could have been entitled Hadrian’s Ditch Trail since the curtain wall itself on this section was long gone. The photos don’t give the ditch justice but 1900 years of wear and tear do make a difference. You can see it in the photo above. Over the next 3 days I did come to appreciate the scale of the infrastructure which the Romans constructed. A massive defensive ditch in front of the wall, a ‘berm’, a curtain wall, a road (not to be confused with the one you can see) then another ditch system, the Vallum.

The first walkers I see are three ladies walking in the opposite direction to me. I wasn’t able to provide a personal recommendation for the Three Tuns pub but pointed them in the right direction as they wished me well. It was good to feel part of a ‘community’ even though I was walking alone.

So many accounts I had read complained about the trail sticking to the Military Road (B6318). My recent walking has been typically around and through the Tyneside Conurbation so I have become used to walking with background traffic noise. I soon left the road itself though and followed the waymarked trails through the fields, albeit beside the road.

It was a pleasant walk, I wasn’t yet feeling the full effects of the backpack. I was however grateful that there weren’t any people around to see me climbing over various stiles. I often felt top heavy and was very conscious of not wanting to do my back in so graceful I was not. It wasn’t long before I came to today’s Fort at Rudchester. There were lots of really interesting lumps and bumps and an information board.

So it was then onward and upward then downward but mostly upward albeit on fairly gentle slopes. The views were great looking over the Tyne Valley, take my word for it my photos didn’t capture the beauty. I then came to the first example of where a landowner had not given permission for the Trail to go through their property and therefore there was a diversion. It was ok I suppose but I did start reminding myself about the principles of a right to roam!

I was now getting a bit weary – I had been walking for nearly two hours I think and I was conscious my destination was not too far ahead. I had by this time following the trail crossed the Military Road and was now walking in the ditch so views were somewhat diminished. I passed a couple of reservoirs and continued now on the north side of the ditch. I was thankful for my walking poles as they give me that extra push to get up the next hill.

So when I got to today’s goal I was happy to stop. I was camping in the field behind the Robin Hood Inn at East Wallhouses. They offer a ‘Wild Camping’ experience, ie a field, a water tap and use of the pub toilets. This was my first night in a tent for a long time and I was a little bit anxious . I had only out the tent up once on my friends lawn and when I got to the field there were three others just finishing putting their tents up, the last thing I wanted was an audience! Anyway I managed without embarrassment and then was ready for the next part of my wild camping experience – a pub meal and a couple of pints of Roman themed ale. For those more into ale than me, (I’m a lightweight), it was Gallia from the Twice Brewed Inn.

I returned from my meal – did some reading then eventually went to sleep. The end of a really good day.

Waking up and looking out of the tent though it sounds a bit over the top filled me with joy. A vista of fields and sunshine put me in a good mood for the day. I am an early riser so everything was quiet and I couldn’t hear anyone else awake. I successfully used my Trangia cooking set to make a cup of tea and some porridge – this doesn’t sound significant but this was the first time it had been used in earnest. Everything sorted and packed away I was ready to set out on the trail just after 6.30am.

The first part of today’s walk was alongside the Ditch. I passed some rather pleasant bits even though I was always conscious of the traffic thundering past.

This was the second day of discovering how much I’d missed when driving along here. I have always been aware of the Military Road being built over Hadrian’s Wall but hadn’t realised that so much of the associated ditch and Vallum were still so visible and in my eyes at least so impressive.

It had it’s moments and gradually the views starting opening out.

I stopped at the top of this hill where there was a handy rock to sit on. The views from here were tremendous and as it happens there were some very impressive Vallum earthworks too. I don’t think I was missing the absence of wall. After that it was downhill (sorry) to my first fort of the day. This was Halton Chesters and were some more lumps an bumps and not much else. Uphill next – on reflection uphill and downhill was one of the themes of this trip. Then onwards to the Errington Café which wasn’t open but had a handy bench for me to sit in the sun and have a break. One of the penalties of starting out so soon in the morning is that I miss out on early morning refreshments apart from the water I carry. On reflection I could have made myself a cup of tea but the trail was calling.

Some pleasant walking followed in the sunshine through pasture, fields and some lovely woodland stretches. At one point in the woods I came across an abundance of bilberries – if only I wasn’t so focused I could have been foraging.

As I approached the North Tyne Valley – it was time for a short diversion away from the Romans to the Anglo Saxons. Just off the trail is St Oswald’s Church at Heavenfield. It was a lovely quiet place commemorating the victory of King Oswald over the pagans in 633 or 634. I had a few moments of reflection and reminded myself of my pilgrim calling. (A blog post to come!)

From here on bits of wall start suddenly appearing firstly here at Planetrees halfway down the hill into the valley

The next bit of wall would have been a lot closer if it hadn’t been for the substantial detour around someone’s property. It was a case of walking along a country lane almost to the village of Wall then back towards Chollerford. Another short detour to see a bit of wall with the remains of a turret.

It was a day of detours. No sooner had I finished one then I was on to the next. Trying to be a wall completist as far as this project goes I wanted to follow the line of the wall as much as possible. This meant a walk from Chollerford Bridge back along the river in the direction I has just walked to visit the Roman bridge abutment. Whilst tempted to sit in the shade beside the riverbank my second Fort of the day was beckoning from the opposite bank.

So after retracing my steps to the bridge and then crossing it – I ended up at one of my goals for today. Last year I had on impulse joined English Heritage and decided now was a good time to start getting some benefit.

I really enjoyed my visit to Chesters Fort helped I’m sure by the kind staff who offered a space to park my backpack whilst I wandered around and the discounted refreshments at the café. I had been here before many years ago but never had the time to take it in. I was glad I had visited Segundunum at Wallsend as this gave me more of an understanding of the scale and plan of a Roman Cavalry Fort.

The trail was calling again. I was becoming more and more conscious of my feet. I had a couple of blisters which were manageable but after walking for 6 hours by now they were getting sore. Sadly after descending into the beautiful river valley it follows that there is an uphill climb. I was really feeling my age as I walked up the road from Chesters. I know I didn’t have far to go to the campsite but it felt further and further away the more I struggled up the hill.

There was one more bit of wall to see before heading towards my stop for the night.

I don’t think I quite appreciated the impressiveness of this bit of wall and turret as I think I was feeling rather overwhelmed by the climb out of the valley, my sore feet and general weariness. It was only a short walk from here to my camping spot for the night at Green Carts Farm

I was so glad when I could sit down, before pitching my tent beside a handy picnic bench. There weren’t many people camping here so it was nice and quiet. I was seriously considering whether I had done enough and whether I should cut my trip short and go home the following day. Once I’d had a lovely hot shower and cooked myself some tea I did feel a bit better. I would make a decision in the morning.

Green Carts Farm to WInshields then Home

Yesterday afternoon was a low point but its wonderful what a good nights sleep and some blister plasters will do. I woke up this morning ready and raring to go. I missed sunrise itself but was treated to a wonderful display as the rising sun came out from behind the clouds. It was an awesome view across the North Tyne Valley.

I managed my ‘normal’ 6.30 start and retraced my steps to re-join Hadrian’s Wall trail. Today there was more wall to see and some of most spectacular views of the trip. More uphill than downhill though I remember very well from my walk with Christopher earlier this year they are a lot of steep climbs and descents.

This first part of the day was once again walking beside the Military Road on one side or the other through pasture land. The views on every side were wide and expansive. I was really appreciating the opportunity to enjoy the landscape.

The next point of interest was Carrawburgh Fort. Here even the lumps and bumps were obscured by tall grass. Thankfully there was a narrow mown path through the site to the well preserved Mithraic Temple.

A lot much gentle up and downs followed. The ground was quite rough although mostly grass, I was thankful to be walking in dry weather as some sections looked like they could be very boggy.

So the road or in this case the trail goes ever on in the photo below you can just make out the hills on the horizon.

I then started on the climb up to Sewingshields the views just got better and better. This section of the wall was all completely new to me.

I was enjoying this walk so much, apart from the sore feet. I know people who think that any view which aren’t like the Lake District Fells or the Scottish Highlands aren’t worth looking at but I just love all kinds of countryside from the micro-pockets where I live to these seeping vistas

Then I turned a corner and there in the distance was Housesteads Fort one of my important stops of the day.

Housesteads is one of the most visited bits of Hadrian’s Wall and getting there was almost a return to normal society. I had not been meeting many walkers and others except around the major sites like Chesters yesterday and Housesteads today. As it happens and I just make this observation the people who most often stopped to chat on the way were overseas visitors. Whilst I enjoy solo walking I do always greet those I make eye contact with and if there is an opportunity for a short conversation I do enjoy that.

At Housesteads I used my English Heritage Membership for free entrance and my discount for drink, snacks and souvenir guidebook. It was an nice place for a sit – the staff were kind enough to provide a space for my backpack whilst I wandered around. I am appreciating the fact that Romans built all their forts to a very standard plan so the bits of wall and foundations remaining make more sense.

The next section of walk was the section that I had walked with Christopher earlier this year so it had a certain sense of familiarity. It was also the busiest section of my walk. In one place there were three school parties.

It was the afternoon and I had been walking since 6.30 so I took the decision to walk along the Military Way for this section. This runs just to the south of the wall and tends to miss out the really steep up and downs at the edge of the crags. I had done those before!

As I passed Sycamore Gap (the famous tree) it really felt like so many people had a better connection to a tree from a film than the wall which it was growing on. I make no judgement just the observation.

Like the day before I was beginning to flag a bit so pressed on. I soon reached Peel Gap where Christopher and I had started our walk.

I decided to walk along the wall a bit further then take the path down to my camp site – it took me to Winshield Crags which when I got there turned out to be the highest point on the wall and half way across the country. I couldn’t have walked much further today and decided I would leave my final walking section for another time.

There was a precipitous footpath leading down from the wall to the camp site. I had certainly been so thankful for my walking poles which had been so helpful getting me up and in this case down hills.

It was a great camp site and was only a short walk to the pub. So after getting set up and showered and changed – I felt I deserved a treat to end my epic journey. So Burger and Chips it was followed by Sticky Toffee pudding and two pints of Ale Caesar. I had to keep the Roman theme going.

It was another good night. When I woke up the next morning I had a while to wait for my bus and the forecast was for rain by 7.30. I packed everything up then went up the the farm where they have a very nice room with table and chairs and a kitchen. While it was raining I was having a cup of tea and reading.

It was soon time to go home so with the aid of my trusty bus pass I got the bus to Hexham, then the bus to the Metrocentre, then the bus home. I was home by lunchtime. I was so thankful I had done this after so much thinking. Reflections to follow ……….