I seem to be unable to relax when travelling. I suppose I was excited and a little bit anxious too as I was beginning my final day before starting to actually walk. I had loads of time after waking up early in Bordeaux and ended up having a long wait at the train station. I love people watching so it is never boring. A highlight was a lad playing Leonard Cohen’s Hallelujah song on the station piano. Any mention of Hallelujah fits the theme.
The train arrived on time and I was thankful I got a seat as it was packed. I noticed a few people with backpacks but didn’t have an opportunity to chat with them and I assumed, correctly as it happened, that they too were pilgrims. Most of the journey was flat countryside with kilometre after kilometre of arable fields. As I approached Bayonne there was more and more pine forest/plantation. My main thought as I gazed out of the window was wistful almost regret that I hadn’t chosen to walk down through France after all.
I arrived at Bayonne station and this was the first time that I really felt part of the pilgrim community as there were quite a few of us wandering around the station not quite sure what to do next. I had bought my tickets in advance so was waiting for my train. I noticed a man drumming up custom for a direct bus to Saint Jean Pied de Port. To my shame I was unsure of my French and assumed that this was a scam. Eventually I realised that the train company had provided a direct bus to take pressure of the train and I decided that would be a better bet. The views on the bus were spectacular with wooded valleys and steep sided mountains. Interestingly the quaint looking little houses we passed all seemed to have white walls and dark red windows and doors. Looking at the scenery I did have a niggling thought that maybe I should have started walking at Bayonne which I had considered as an option.
Apart from the awesome scenery I spent my bus journey listening in to a couple of pilgrims in the seats behind me. I began to feel a bit intimidated by the ‘expert’ knowledge of one of them. It seems to be a common theme that I noticed having watched (too many) YouTube videos that you come across so many of these so called experts who know everything there is to know about the Camino. Thankfully it wasn’t too long before we arrived at Saint Jean.
When I arrived and collected my backpack I did what became something of a theme on my walk; if unsure of where to go, follow the pilgrims in front. I am pleased to say it almost always worked! I followed a line of pilgrims to the pilgrim’s office where we had a twenty minute wait until it opened. Waiting in queues gives an opportunity for people to talk to me and even occasionally for me to start a conversation! Immediately you are aware that you are part on an international community, when the first conversations you have are with two Australians and an New Zealander currently living in Manchester. I was walking on my own but very conscious of being a part of this crowd of people all on this Way of St James.
Checking in at the Pilgrim’s Office feels like the formal beginning of the walking stage of this part of my pilgrim journey. The first stamp in my Pilgrim Credential / Passport. The volunteers who staff the office are so helpful, it was more of a conversation than a formal transaction. They did warn me that it was much busier than expected and checked whether I had booked my place at Roncesvalles. As I came out of the office the evidence was there in front of me as the queue was getting longer and longer.
The pilgrim’s hostel I had booked, La Vita e Bella had a check-in time of 3pm but they didn’t mind me arriving early. This was going to be my first experience of staying in pilgrim hostels, which will be referred to as Albergues in Spain. This would be a day of so many new experiences. My hosts were so welcoming which mad this not quite as scary as it could have been. Despite reading so much about the Camino and watching videos – doing something for the first time in real life is very different.
I had the pick of the beds so picked one which wasn’t a bunk bed and began what would be a daily routine going forward, sort out my bed, get a shower and a shave, wash some clothes. Then I could relax. Today I didn’t need to rest so I went for a look around the town. The weather was glorious, hot and sunny. The town itself, nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees is beautiful. A walled town with lots of quaint cobbled streets and a 17th century Citadel overlooking it. I wandered around and from the citadel tried to work out which direction I would be walking tomorrow.
I checked out the starting point which is the gateway under the tower.
Once through the gate you can look right and left along the river and then straight ahead up the street where I would take my first steps on the Way.
Then a quiet time to rest and pray and remember why I am doing this. There are so many thoughts and things in my head. It’s good to just pause and read out loud some of the prayers etc I have saved on my phone.
I had an evening meal at the hostel and enjoyed the company of other pilgrims. This time from Ireland and the Netherlands. I went for a stroll after my meal and really felt the excitement of finally starting my walk in the morning.
The dormitory had filled up by the time I got to bed so there was plenty of activity and it was certainly not a quiet and peaceful first night. I did however get to sleep sooner than I was expecting so perhaps communal living might not be as bad as I had been told. Despite being aware of snoring it didn’t keep me awake.