Thursday 20th April 2023
Distance 25.1 km (15.6 ml). Total Ascent 1390m (4560 ft)
Saint Jean Pied de Port – Roncesvalles
After an OK but disturbed night I was up as soon as possible ready for breakfast at 6.00am. I had paid for the breakfast when I booked so made the most of it. I wanted to be ready to start walking as soon as it was light and was excited to actually begin. Prayer, though was a priority for me – so finding somewhere quiet to say Morning Prayer was the first task after leaving the hostel. Happily there weren’t many people around at that time in the morning so I just sat on a bench just along from the hostel. I did feel like I rushed things a bit though as I was anxious to be on my way. Eventually I set off just before 7.30 on Thursday 20th April – only 800km or 500 miles to go.
There were plenty of other pilgrims around so I found my way by following them and checking out the frequent way markers and them I made my way over the bridge and out of the town. It was quite steep at first and I was stopping quite often. I began to question how effective my preparation had been. Still, looking back and taking photographs is a good excuse for a rest. Just 10 minutes into the walk and I’m puffing and panting, though the sunrise over the hills lifts my mood.
After the first steep section it levelled and even went downhill so I thought I would manage. I knew this was one of the most, if not the most difficult days but it didn’t make it any easier.
It wasn’t all about the physical challenge though. As I walked I wanted to experience as much of my surroundings as I could, the sights, the sounds, and the smells! I wanted to immerse myself in this wonderful world. It was good to focus on details as I walked to like these roses.
It got steeper and steeper and more brutal as time wore on. My goal at this stage was to get to the 8km point at Orisson where there is a cafe. I had to get there though thankfully the views were so great, it made up for the difficulty. I hadn’t been in mountains like this before and with perfect weather every few metres there was another vista which took my breath away – it wasn’t just the physical challenge
After a particularly gruelling stretch into my head popped a chorus i learnt at church when I was very young….
When the road is rough and steep
Fix your eyes upon Jesus
He alone has power to keep
Fix your eyes upon Him
Jesus is a gracious Friend
One on whom you can depend
He is faithful to the end
Fix your eyes upon Him.
I hadn’t thought about that for close on 60 years. I am not sure it helped in a physical way but it kept me going.
As I passed by some young trees carefully planted beside the path, I was so pleased to realise the kindness of those volunteers who look after the trail. They were fruit trees, Apples, Plums and more planted as shade and fruit for pilgrims in the future.
Onward and upward though…..
Finally my first proper rest stop come into view — just two and three quarter hours after starting. Freshly squeezed orange juice and a slice of sweet almond cake on the terrace with views to die for. It makes the gruelling slog to get here worthwhile.
I congratulated myself on making it this far, no blisters and with a half hour rest I was ready to go on. I changed my socks as this was recommended to keep blisters at bay. It was still uphill but I was assured it wasn’t as steep, though I should have realised I still had two thirds of my walk to go until I reached today’s destination. Feeling refreshed after my break I set off again with renewed enthusiasm.
What it may have lacked in steep inclines it made up for in never ending slog. I was aiming for my next stop which was a food truck a few kilometres further on. My left foot was beginning to feel sore so I was glad when I finally reached it. I had some Aquarius and pressed on knowing I still had quite a way to go. When I eventually did stop and check I discovered a blister! I put a plaster on but it was more the disappointment and almost a feeling that I had failed. I know it sounds a bit over the top but I really thought I could get away without blisters. I had to press on though. I was very conscious I still had quite a distance to go and was nowhere near the highest point.
There were lighter moments though. An Italian lady who was in the next bed to me last night passed by. She greeted me and then turned to her friends and said, this is the man who I slept with last night. It came across rather differently than she meant but it was quite funny.
I was beginning to get view fatigue though and couldn’t possibly stop and take photos every five minutes. When I looked across and saw the snow covered peaks in the distance it was a wonderful moment.
The weather was perfect. I had psyched myself up to expect rain and/or fog and cloud, which I heard later was the case just two days after. It wasn’t even too hot as there was something of a cooling breeze. Finally we came to some woodland though up here the trees were just coming into bud.
We came to an iconic milestone on this part of the stage. Only 765km to go though I had my doubts about the accuracy of the distance.
Soon we came to the Fontaine de Roland. It is named after the great hero of Charlemagne and is still providing clean water to pilgrims.
The border with Spain is just here though there is nothing to mark it until you see this stone telling you you are now in the spanish province of Navarre.
It was tempting to think that I was nearly there but it wasn’t the case. Still more uphill climbing to do. Just keep following the yellow arrows. I was quite excited to see a snake, thankfully a small one moving away from me. Just a few steps more and there were three lizards. There were plenty of moments like that which meant it was not all about the physical slog. I was getting mire and more tited though and conscious of so many people passing me, it just seemed never ending.
Eventually I did reach the top and could actually see the monastery of Roncesvalles in the valley far below. I was so relieved. It was 3.15pm and I had reached Col de Lepoeder, the highest point at 1450 metres.
According to the guide book to get here from Saint Jean Pied de Port was a total ascent of 1390 meters. I had checked before I started and noted that Ben Nevis is only 1345 metres. I was shattered , the last hour or so was more and more of a struggle to keep going. It was downhill all the way from here but that had its own challenges….
I decided to be clever and take the shorter and more direct route down despite the fact it was rough and more hazardous. I’d come this far and my confidence had returned. It was difficult with very rocky sections. Most of the trail down was through forest which was such as contrast to the pastures and open mountains of the way up.
If I hadn’t been so careful not to fall, and so tired and anxious to get to the end I think I would have enjoyed this section even more. It was so quiet with just the sound of a stream as I neared the bottom. There was a massive patch of bluebells too.
Just before I got to Roncesvalles I noticed something odd and discovered that I had lost the tip of one of my walking poles, thus rendering it useless. So, nine hours after I started, I arrived not with a sense of joy and achievement but a feeling of disappointment and annoyance. This was compounded when I discovered I had over an hour to wait to check in and realised my blister on my heel was worse than I thought. I was however thankful I had booked in advance as by the time I got there they were turning people away.
The hostel here is a converted monastery which I read has since the 12th Century received ‘All pilgrims .. sick and well, Catholics, Jews, pagans, heretics and vagabonds. I am not quite sure where I fit in. Thankfully the accommodation has been upgraded since then. There is something to be said for being old though, you tend to get allocated the bottom bunk.
I didn’t get much chance to look around as by the time I had checked in, I had just enough time to get showered and changed before my pilgrims meal. It was a basic 3 course meal with wine and bread and the company of other pilgrims. I met someone I had chatted to yesterday as well as someone from Korea.
It was straight from the meal to the pilgrims Mass in the 13th century church. This was my first experience of a catholic Mass. It was in Spanish of course though the basic format is what I am used to. After the Mass there were prayers to the Virgin of the Camino who I gathered would look after us as a mother on the way. At the end there was the opportunity to go up to the front for a blessing. They listed the countries of the pilgrims who had checked in that day. It was a very long list. The whole world seemed to be there! Thankfully the rest, a shower and a good meal together with the Mass and Blessing take the sting out of my negative feelings and make me a little calmer.
It had been a very long day and I was happy to lie down on my bunk and wait for lights out at 10pm.